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Simkin posted:I finally found a Gladius that Z3n might want to sell his kidneys for: I do like it a lot, but why have all of that front travel when the rear shock still only has a few inches? Seems kinda pointless, and like it'd toss the bike's travel all out of balance. And I loving called it last night that the first thing people would do would be to rip off those lower shrouds. Also, I'm not sure if I'd trust the single rotor to stop a 400+ pound bike over and over again in an aggressive riding situation, but that's probably not a concern for the urban SM rider. I do think that's way cool though. I wonder how much weight you could strip off of it to get a good hybrid SM/Standard.
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Apr 9, 2009 15:56
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This is not my beautiful SV...  But it is one that I moonlight on. Friend's bike, swapped the bars over for fun, will be taking it down to San Diego this weekend. It's got the usual mods, GSX-R front end, Penske, Yoshimura RS3, bars, and some other stuff that I'm forgetting, I'm sure. Lotta nice work done to it 
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Apr 11, 2009 21:33
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james posted:I just bought an 03 about 3 weeks ago. One of the problems with the bike was a very soft rear brake pedal. It takes about 30 degrees of movement to get firm. I've bled the rear and I get no improvement. The movement does produce pressure (progressively as far as I can tell) but it takes so much movement to hold the bike on an incline, it's painful for any period of time. How's the condition of the pads and the rotors? Are you sure there's not air in it? Because usually when you've got that much movement in the pedal, there's air in the system. Did you bleed the banjo fittings?
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Apr 14, 2009 19:14
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james posted:Pads and rotor are ok. I'd estimate pads are half consumed and rotor has no ridges or lip, but I didn't get out the calipers to measure. The caliper moves freely on the slide. I put some air into the system on accident (vigorously bleeding, didn't watch the fluid level as closely as I should) and the system acted differently with air. However, it acted as I expect an air-permeated system would act. After getting the idiot introduced air out of the system, it went back to the way it was before. That is correct. If there's air in the lines, you'll get a hiss and a sputter as it's forced out. What you're describing is not normal for an SV braking system. I'd say you've got 2 options here...air in the lines, or the pads are glazed. Bleed the banjo bolts and go from there. How many miles on the bike?
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Apr 14, 2009 20:12
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james posted:Bike's got 17k on it. Make sure that you close the banjo bolts before the pedal bottoms or you let it go, otherwise it'll suck air back in on the return stroke of the MC. You probably already know that, but it's worth noting just in case. If it's fixed with the bleeding, that's good, otherwise come back and let us know and there's some other basic things you can try to get it braking again.
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Apr 14, 2009 21:48
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james posted:I did know that, but thanks for the tip. I appreciate common gotchas. There's 2 nuts on the rod of the master cylinder. You can adjust those to change when the MC starts to engage as well as the "at rest" position on the lever. You may just have to adjust those to get it to engage normally. Have you tried working with that adjustment yet? Also, I don't know how experienced you are with bleeding motorcycle braking systems, but it used to take me 2 tries to get all the air out of the system. I'd bleed it once, ride it around for a little bit, and then bleed it all again, and only after the second bleed would I really get good lever/pedal response and feel. Another trick that you can try is to pull the rear caliper off, and back bleed the system by forcing the pistons back into the caliper. Open the upper reservoir, force the pistons back in, and watch and see if you get any air bubbles coming through. Make sure you don't force brake fluid everywhere though  After all of this, you could just have glazed pads from the PO dragging the rear brake everywhere or something. If none of the bleeding tricks work, try cleaning the rotor and maybe sanding down the rear pads a bit to get rid of any potential glaze on there. If they're already glazed, there's no harm in abusing them a little 
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Apr 15, 2009 19:19
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james posted:Thanks for the suggestions. Sometimes you can adjust them in such a fashion that they don't really engage the MC cleanly...I did a very poor job of wording that. quote:I've bled the brakes on five different bikes, but this is the first that I've had this problem. If the pedal/lever ever got spongy I was able to fix it on the first bleed, or with a new set of pads. None of them ever started this spongy though. However, I have introduced air into the system a couple times (when I wasn't paying enough attention and when I had to replace the reservoir a couple times) and none of those times did I have a problem. Alrighty, shouldn't be a problem with your technique then. quote:I think I'll try this tonight. A website I read suggested pushing fluid through the system via the bleed nipple and a syringe. I might try that too. Both can work. The pistons back in trick is easier, but the syringe is the same concept. quote:I'll pull them off and look again. I don't know if you'll be able to really visibly see any glazing, but it's worth a shot. quote:Thanks. np.
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Apr 15, 2009 22:18
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Be careful with it for a bit, you may find that the pads will bed again soon and give you a lot more power from the rear brake. It doesn't hurt to get up to speed and drag the rear brake a little to get it to bed fast for 5 seconds or so, and then let off of it to let it cool, and then do it again. After a couple of times of that I usually find that the pads are pretty much bedded. Glad you got it to acceptable. It should be better than that, but who the hell knows what was done to it if you're finding cloth in the drat thing. 
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Apr 16, 2009 18:53
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james posted:It wasn't cloth exactly. It was a weave of material. I've explained it poorly. If I remember I'll get a picture tonight and you can scratch you head with me. Huh...I wonder if it's some sort of weird thermal ablative stuff or something. I've never had a problem with my brakes squeeking, even when I pulled the shims out. Even still, it should be braking better than that. I may end up with a spare SV rear brake assembly if you're still not happy with it in a week or 2.
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Apr 16, 2009 21:56
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TEASE MY NECKBEARD posted:When I bought my bike, the PO threw in a zx10 rear shock. I'm sure its much firmer, and I would like the bike to have sportier suspension. I've been contemplating putting the shock on, but I am worried about changing the handling for the worse, on account of the cushy forks. On other forums, svrider mostly, some people say it will be bad and some people say it makes the bike better. It's 50/50, nothing to do but try it. Swap it over and see if you like it. Some people dig the changes, some don't.
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Apr 17, 2009 22:52
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I actually have some springs that were in the g/f's bike when she crashed. The forks are bent, but the springs should be fine. If you want them I'll send them to you for shipping + 20$ or something.
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Apr 18, 2009 18:02
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james posted:If I can't find what I need, or get a solution I want, I may post here again about the assembly. Cool, just let me know.
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Apr 21, 2009 19:36
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I'm paying 400 a year for full coverage on an 00 SV with a bunch of mods. G/f was paying 260 a year for an 02. Both through state farm. You're getting reamed there, that's a new bike every 3 years. Find another company.
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May 19, 2009 22:16
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BotchedLobotomy posted:24, going on 25 in July. Los Angeles, CA. You're paying 200$ a MONTH for liability only? Please tell me that's a year. Check with State Farm...my agent is Mike Rosa, he's a cool guy, raced an SV, sponsers the AFM twins class. Give him a ring and they should be able to hook you up. Plus if you ever get in an accident, state farm will actually take care of you if you have problems. They paid out 4600$ for the g/f's SV when it got totalled. She bought it for 2800.
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May 20, 2009 00:10
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Atomic Hotdog posted:Stupid question here! My bike won't start so my dad and I were following some troubleshooting steps in the Clymer manual, and I think we narrowed it down to the signal generator being bad. I forget what we were testing the power output of, but the book said it should be 3 Volts, but we were getting 1 Volt. It lets the bike know where the crank is in it's stroke, so it knows when to fire the cylinders. If it's broken, you don't get spark.
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May 20, 2009 05:36
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It doesn't have an automatic, what do you want it for? Ok, that aside, that's a very nicely done SV. In fact, that bike could easily run at the front of just about any SV race class with a good rider on it. Do you have previous dirt riding experience? I'd hesitate to recommend such a pristinely/expensive bike to a new rider. If you have previous experience or a good mentor to help you get past those newb moments safely, though, then it's a great bike at a very good price, considering the number of good mods done to it. If you do get it, pick up some frame sliders and such, just to protect in the low speed/garage tipover that's so common for new riders.
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May 21, 2009 20:40
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BotchedLobotomy posted:Speaking of craigslist links, I was internet window shopping to see what was out there and saw this one for sale near where I live. Eh, that one's alright, but doesn't have any of the real suspension work done, and doesn't have much really going for it, honestly. You could buy a stock one for less and convert it, including a GSX-R front end, for much cheaper than that, and have a nicer bike to boot.
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May 21, 2009 20:51
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Eh, it's not the best bike in the world, but given your situation, it's not an bad choice either. Just be careful, pick up some decent gear, and get some training and you'll be fine. It's a good deal on the bike, too...so, go for it, I guess. You only live once Get some sliders for it.
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May 21, 2009 21:44
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MourningGlory posted:Anyone following the thread on SVRider about the new Ricor Intiminators? I've been looking at them idly, as I've already got my bikes set up with everything I could want...for 150$, though, it's a no brainer. If I had a stock bike, I'd buy them for sure. I don't buy that they're better than GSX-R fork swaps, though, because the stock forks aren't as stiff at the GSXR front end, and that can lead to really odd stuff under race pace braking. I'm also not buying that they're perfect for race use either, because adjustability is key for both rebound and compression if you expect to have good suspension characteristics as the bike goes faster, and the intiminators don't provide any real adjustability. Are they a vast improvement over the stock stuff? I'm sure they are, even if all they do is match racetech stuff. Are they the second coming for SV front ends? I doubt it. Edit: Also, it's very hard to get a good judge of how fast people are riding on the street. Some people claim "torture test" and "better than GSX-R" but if they're not pushing the limits of the stock stuff when they're set up correctly, how are they supposed to know how much better or worse these are under faster conditions? Most people couldn't outride the stock stuff when set up correctly, much less a GSX-R front end, not to mention the other changes that occur as a result of the change to GSX-R forks. The GSX-R forks are also running much stiffer spring stock, what sort of setup are these people running? Is their SV sprung correctly? Is their GSX-R front end sprung correctly? If you're going from a setup that's wrong for your weight to one that's closer, of course it's going to feel better...but it doesn't mean that one solution or the other is better, it means that you're comparing old apples to fresh oranges. For most people, I'd recommend these over the racetech valves just because of the ease of installation and the absurdly low price at the moment. We'll see how they pan out, I don't think the really fast guys are going to be dropping their AK20s anytime soon. I'm sure they're better than stock SV forks, which are poo poo. I doubt highly that they're better than a GSX-R front end or the AK20s at track pace. Z3n fucked around with this message at 19:54 on May 22, 2009 |
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May 22, 2009 19:40
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monkeynuts posted:Does $2500 seem like a good deal on this 99 SV650 with 23k? It's a reasonable price. See if you can talk him down a little more, older SVs are really starting to bottom out on depreciation. It's probably been down, so take a good look at the frame and the tank to check for any potential damage.
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May 24, 2009 05:26
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dietcokefiend posted:http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/mcy/1189154315.html I race a bike with a welded frame at the upper headstock. As long as it was done by a decent welder, it's not a problem. I'd buy that as a spares bike/commuter in a heartbeat. Obviously, the bike's been crashed, so I'd check everything very, very carefully, but if it's still straight and everything's in good shape, it's a very good deal.
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May 26, 2009 17:44
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dietcokefiend posted:It is hard to tell from the small picture not knowing the bike frame, but could that bend/flex/crack be caused by a hard front end collision that was hard enough to bend the frame through the force transmitted through the forks? These frames are really tough. Mine was Tboned in a 35mph accident and the frame is not significantly tweaked, I just had the geometry checked at the race weekend by GP frame and wheel. It is possible that it was caused by that, it's also possible that it could have been hit from the side. I'd go in, talk to the guy, ride the bike around, and then maybe lowball him if you feel uncomfortable about it and walk if he doesn't bite. If there's a serious problem with the geometry, you will notice it because the bike isn't going to handle well or be smooth in some situations. Run it up to 50mph and take your hands off the bars and see what happens. Look at the condition of the tires, make sure they're aired up, as those things can cause odd handling characteristics too. By now you should have some understanding of how a bike should ride, but if at all possible, bring an experienced friend to take it for a spin, and as I said, if you feel uncomfortable with it for any reason, lowball and walk. A good SV frame would run you around 300-500$, and if you lowball him for 1200$, you could have a good SV for under 2k, which is an awesome deal. Z3n fucked around with this message at 17:57 on May 26, 2009 |
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May 26, 2009 17:55
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dietcokefiend posted:Sounds like a plan then. Will a riding novice be able to notice a tweaked frame in a normal testdrive? I was already planning on dumping 3-6k on a newer bike, so I have all the cash ready and 1600 would be a steal leaving more cash for other things. See my edit, but if it's a problem, just swap frames. Not the end of the world, probably around a weekend or 2 of work, depending on how quickly you work. The amount of money you have available will turn that SV into whatever you want it to be. Also, it's worth noting that coming from an I4, you're going to have to get used to shifting earlier. You don't rev an SV out like you do an I4, you'll always have power on tap, but there will be less of it. If you're not happy with that, some of that money can go into upgrades that'll get it pushing almost as much power as your Ninja.
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May 26, 2009 17:58
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first, titles go with frames, so you find a clean title frame and you're good to go. Yes, a yapor or the like will let you have oil and neutral and such. It'll require a little wiring work, nothing too extreme. Echo is right, that's a gsxr 600 front end. It's still a good front end, but as echo says, I'd be wary of him bodging other stuff. For the price, it's hard to go wrong though. Be aware that you could have to work on it a bit or a lot to get it 100% and budget/offer accordingly and you'll be fine.
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May 26, 2009 21:06
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`Nemesis posted:If you can afford a bike that hasn't been hosed up, and it seems like you are relatively new to riding, I would suggest not getting the frankenbike. Why spend hours/countless headaches sorting that thing out when you can just get something ready to ride and enjoy? If this wasn't your first bike and you were familiar with bike repair, I would say go for it... but that doesn't seem to be the case. Listen to this post, as it strikes at the real core of things. If you want a cheap project, this SV is perfect with a lot of potential, but it could need a lot of work to see that potential. Replacement parts are very easy to come by on SVs. Common, popular bikes with a lot of them floating around.
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May 27, 2009 03:59
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dietcokefiend posted:Well I was referring to the new front and rear end. Depending on how much stuff changes through model years locating crap for the forks/bearings might be a pain if he doesnt even know what the donor bike was. Another thing was the "custom" steering head bearings he used for the new front end. Honestly, I could help you navigate the mindfield that that bike probably is, but if you don't have to, why? Buy a nice example and have fun on it. That's what SVs do best anyways. Find one like phil was looking at and be set forever with it. Or until you get bored
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May 27, 2009 06:06
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dietcokefiend posted:http://dayton.craigslist.org/mcy/1177446673.html If it was lowered via lowering links, it's not a big deal. He's got it priced over high blue book, though, and it's definantly not worth that. I'd offer 3500 and walk if he doesn't take it. It's not worth 4500, high blue book is 4300, and low is 3000. Plus the fact that it's lowered and you have to deal with raising it again means there's no way that it's even worth high blue book to you. Scorpion exhausts are one step above generic chinese slipon. This bike doesn't have "tons of extras" either...an exhaust, frame sliders, and a solo cowl (that's supposed to come with the bike, IIRC) is a couple of things and only a few hundred new. I'd pass unless he's willing to be a lot more reasonable on the price. 650 miles over 4 years means that it sat for a long time, and sitting isn't the best thing for motorcycles. Seals all over the bike dry out, rubber gets brittle, etc.
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May 28, 2009 00:27
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dietcokefiend posted:Ok what about this one That's a good deal, especially with complete maintenence records. I'm not a fan of the looks of the bike, but that's a personal thing. ABS is awesome on a streetbike, so that's a bonus for sure. If you want an SV, he's obviously negotioable on the price, show up with 3800$ and see if he takes it. Newer bike, somewhat higher miles (not a huge concern on an SV), and good maintenence for 400$ cheaper than the other bike? Hell yes...
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May 28, 2009 00:35
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dietcokefiend posted:Called him up, going to paypal him tonight and work out a title transfer with his friend over the weekend. God I am so excited I think I need to take a break and think about it. Is there anything possibly bad about that bike in any way? I need to put doubt in my head damnit You don't want an SV? That's a great deal on a much newer bike. I'd go check it out and make sure that everything is exactly as he says, but if it's really like he says (and it appears to be) then you should have a very nice SV.
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May 28, 2009 01:16
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dietcokefiend posted:Yea I will hopefully have high resolution pictures in about 30 minutes when he gets back, then after that I will paypal him a deposit to hold the bike for the weekend. The bike looks really nice. Things to note, uhh...well, first of all, the throttle is going to feel really "twitchy". Because you get the power at lower levels, not when you run the RPMs up, the bike is going to require somewhat finer throttle control. Not a huge amount, but be careful about goosing the throttle at low RPM, as the bike will scoot forward quickly even from 3k. There is a lot of engine braking on an SV. Enough that you don't really need to brake if you don't want to. If your hand slips off at freeway speeds, you will scrub speed very quickly and it will pull you forward. Find some nice stretch of deserted road, and just practice rolling on and off the throttle or just dropping the throttle and seeing what happens. Basically, take the power of your I4 and spread it all through the rev range, reducing it slightly, and you have an SV. You won't notice the ABS at all until it saves your rear end.
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May 28, 2009 02:16
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dietcokefiend posted:Ok well it is up to 4200 then with 2 other buyers... I have no problem going that high but should I? How do you verify that he has 2 other buyers? I'd pass at this point, there are plenty more bikes out there. It's a great deal, but not if you spend all your time being jerked around by the seller. He goes from "price reduced" to suddenly having 3 sellers? I doubt it.
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May 28, 2009 02:51
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Ahh, well, it's still a good bike, just a slightly less good deal. Post up when you get it
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May 28, 2009 05:00
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dietcokefiend posted:Damnit why does everyone with a sv650 have to race people and crash it or something. Getting some insurance quotes for it have been surprising to say the least. Valve adjustments are due every 12k. I'd do plugs as well. You shouldn't be replacing the clutch at 10k unless someone is seriously burning it up or has it adjusted wrong. I've seen stock clutches with years of race use on them, and they're fine as long as people don't burn them up by doing a lot of launches back to back or having them adjusted wrong so they slip all the time, or using energy conserving oil that bonds to the plates and makes them slip. Your SV is expensive to insure because it's an 07 and worth a fair bit. If the maintenence was done correctly, you probably won't need to do the valves until 18k. I'd check them just to be on the safe side, but it shouldn't be a concern.
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May 28, 2009 05:27
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dietcokefiend posted:Yea the clutch ones all did seem odd. 07 models have the dual plugs per cylinder correct? They do have the dual plug heads, yes. I've been happy with state farm, personally.
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May 28, 2009 05:36
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MoonCricket posted:Lately I've had it in the back of my head that its time to do a complete tune and check-up on my '01 but I'm not sure how I should approach it. I bought it with ~5k on it and the used dealership claimed all the necessary maintenance was done, however, I don't have anything I received with the bike except for the title. It has somewhere between 12k and 14k on it now but I don't know exactly(I've gone from naked to S back to naked with a Vapor). I don't ever intend to sell it so exact mileage is unimportant to me. You don't need to "change jets" unless you've put a full exhaust system on the bike. The 6k maintenence interval on SVs includes valve checks, with adjustments typically taking place every 12k-18k, depending on riding style and useage. If the valves aren't adjusted for long enough, you'll be down on power, the bike will have a hard time starting while hot, and eventually you could end up with the valves and pistons hitting one another when a valve hangs open.
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May 28, 2009 20:21
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Jack the Smack posted:Bridgestone BT16s are amazing. I've never slipped in the dry on them in turns, even scraping my footpegs at 80mph. I also over inflated them, reducing my traction even more. Had I properly inflated them I would have more traction over painted surfaces and in the rain. What the hell? There is absolutely a difference between the Bridgestones and the Michelins. Anyways, besides him still having no idea what he's talking about, the overall point is still correct: When it comes to modern tires from major tire providers, you can't go wrong with anything. Just because you don't put a lot of mileage on, may as well go with whatever. I'm really partial to the Pirelli Diablo Corsa 3s. Good wear, good stick, good traction in the rain. They like higher pressures, around 34/36 for street use.
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May 29, 2009 20:06
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Jack the Smack posted:Such as? Tire profile, tire construction, sidewall construction, siping, rubber type and process, on the rears the BT16 has 3 compounds rather than the 2 of the 2ct, best pressure to run for tire life or traction, overall wear characteristics, response to suspension changes, blah blah blah. They are both black and round though.
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May 29, 2009 20:16
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MourningGlory posted:So I'm eyeballing the Michelin Pilot Power 2CT. Is this too much tire for a streetbike? Realistically, is it even possible to ride hard enough on a public road to justify the tire? Would I be better off with the Pilot Road 2CT? No, kinda, maybe. The best way I can think of to explain tires is like this: You're never going to "outride" a modern sport touring tire on the street, just like you're never going to "outride" a modern sportbike on the street. But that doesn't mean that you won't enjoy the additional traction, feel, and feedback of a street/track tire. It's more comfortable to ride a tire at 50% of it's capability over riding it at 90% of it's capability. If you're interested in learning to be a faster rider now, and that's your primary goal as a rider, get the 2ct. The stickier tire with more traction will be forgiving as you make mistakes, will help you learn to trust the feedback from the tires, etc. If you're just riding to cruise/commute and have fun and maybe hit up a twisty road every so often for some safe grins at anything up to double the posted speed limit, get the road2, as it'll last 2 times as long and the difference in feel, stick, and feedback won't be something that you'll notice or care about. Spend the money you save from not having to replace the tire in 4k on gas for a trip
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May 29, 2009 23:50
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Does it go slack and tight at different points through the rotation of the chain? If so, the chain needs to be replaced. Loading up the bike will tighten the chain, however. Edit: Parting one of my Gen 1 SVs: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3119867&pagenumber=1#post361386608 Z3n fucked around with this message at 05:11 on May 30, 2009 |
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May 30, 2009 05:01
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teknicolor posted:CA like California? Aren't CA models always different than the "standard" due to emissions requirements or something? Anyway you got a great deal on that bike, congrats and I hope you don't need to clean anything out too soon, varnish sucks etc etc. Also have fun FINISHING the break in haha. They are, but it's usually not a big deal, just some extra tubing that can be stripped off. Most modern bikes are all "CA" bikes now, with evaporative emissions controls and all of that. That's a fantastic deal. 129 miles, drat!
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May 30, 2009 22:01
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