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 Great bike, only had it for 3 weeks and so far got it it up to 130. The previous owner got it to 150 on the track. if you notice that weird stuff on the tank, near the seat where your legs go, is a rubber rough surface. When accelerating and going over bumpy surfaces at high speed, I squeeze my legs and I'm able to stay to the bike without my butt sliding. Oh and it's a 2005 model. ---------------- Charles 1998 fucked around with this message at 20:24 on Nov 15, 2008 |
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Nov 15, 2008 20:21
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Captain Apollo posted:So..what do I search for? It's just that simple. Make sure to have the right year model.
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Nov 17, 2008 02:08
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Hey look, some nice levers for less than $15: http://www.amazon.com/Suzuki-Katana-SV650-CARBON-LEVERS/dp/B0013L1BMG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1226884132&sr=8-1
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Nov 17, 2008 02:09
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God drat that sucks dude. My sister rides an SV 650 2005, and her boyfriend a SV 650 1999. Both have really thick keys, at least in comparison to the tiny little Kawasaki ones, so you must have used a lot of force. Don't you have a spare? You can just tape down the gas tank or something and ride with the spare.
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Nov 27, 2008 07:41
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What's the disadvantage of having that much horsepower on a bike?
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Dec 4, 2008 09:05
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I think that has to do with the Throttle Retardant on certain SV bikes. I plan to install a Retarder Eliminator today or tomorrow.
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Dec 4, 2008 20:10
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Simkin posted:Wouldn't a retard eliminator just be some burly dude kicking JTS off of his bike? Borat: Very nice.
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Dec 7, 2008 21:17
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Hey, on my SV 1000 bike is a rear passenger rail. Is there any way to remove it? I physically can remove it, but it has a lip for the passenger seat to be secured and without it the seat jiggles all around. Here is a picture getting the basic idea of what I want: I tried to do a search online but couldn't find any after market parts that will eliminate it, nor would I want to do metal working since it would look ugly. And on the question of safety, none of my passengers ever use that. ----------------
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Dec 27, 2008 20:06
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TheFonz posted:I find it to be useful as poo poo when I'm loading the bike on and unloading the bike off my rearstand. I hadn't thought of that. I'm not gonna remove it now, thanks.
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Dec 27, 2008 20:50
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Nevermind, I found the metal piece that fits in this box full of parts the original owner gave me.
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Dec 31, 2008 21:29
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Artemis J Brassnuts posted:Also, I recommend you just push it the hell over as soon as you get it. No use worrying about when it's going to get it's first scratch. Seriously, though - I'd had mine for something like two days before losing my balance backing out of a parking space and setting it down. I don't think anyone's first bike stays pretty long; the scratches are like fingerprints - that's how you can tell which one is yours. Mine was purchased in 2005 by the original owner, had it for 2 months so far, and not a single scratch.
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Jan 7, 2009 04:07
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Christobevii3 posted:How hard is it to restrict the sv650 to 33hp for beginning use? Very easy. Just don't throttle it too hard.
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Feb 7, 2009 21:33
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I just looked up UK law and now I know why people are restricting their bikes and such, I thought people were just scared of getting a too powerful bike.
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Feb 8, 2009 19:22
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ranathari posted:I think the law's a great idea because it does stop a lot of idiots from doing their test and jumping straight on a litrebike but it's not perfect. The worst riders I've known generally tend to do DAS, which lets them jump on a litrebike right after a 3-day course with no previous riding experience and I do think that needs to change. Having spent the last year and a half on a 33hp SV with two years on a CBR125 before that, it's taught me a lot about the process of riding so when I step up to a more powerful bike, there's less I've got to get used to. Is there a correlation between ccs and fatality rates in any published studies? I know sport bikes in general have higher fatality rates per vehicle. Charles 1998 fucked around with this message at 20:11 on Feb 8, 2009 |
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Feb 8, 2009 20:09
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Laws for how you modify your bike are retarded here in the US. I finally got a ticket for my illegal pipes, plus a few other marks for turn signals and headlights. Just gave the ticket to a friend who knows a police officer, and he signed it off without looking at my bike.
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Feb 9, 2009 23:10
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Captain Apollo posted:I know where the battery is You can literally grab both the positive and the negative parts with wet fingers and you wont get anything more than a tingling sensation.
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Feb 19, 2009 00:27
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I've jumped it before.
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Captain Apollo posted:Can somebody confirm or deny this? http://tinyurl.com/cajw3w first result. quote:If a normal healthy person (without a pacemaker) touches the two terminals of a 12 volt car battery while this battery is disconnected and away from the car there is absolutely no chance that you will be injured. If there is a particularly good connection and your hands are wet you might feel a tingle. So if the bike is turned on you may wanna be careful. Charles 1998 fucked around with this message at 07:05 on Feb 19, 2009 |
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Feb 19, 2009 07:03
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I'm trying to find the offset bracket that goes between the frame and the lower fairing, and allows me to mount the frame sliders. When I high sided I completely split the thing in half, and was easily able to bondo my fairing together. But I haven't been able to find this bracket anywhere. I bought some frame sliders and it turned out to only have the pucks, not the offset bracket. Does anyone know where I can find this thing? The left circle is the bracket.
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May 27, 2009 07:45
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dietcokefiend posted:Odd I would have thought my i4 might have stronger engine braking than a twin. Are we talking "drat my butt is slipping forward more than I would like" or "holy poo poo gently caress I am over the front tire i am going to die ahhh" if your hand slips off the throttle in top gear at highway speeds. It's like slamming on the rear brakes without losing traction...most of the time.
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May 28, 2009 01:40
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MourningGlory posted:When my bike is at normal operating temp, there's really just a quick little popping sensation when I shift from neutral to first. If the bike is dead cold, the noise is a bit louder and the bike does a tiny jump. No big deal in either case, though. Try holding the clutch in for longer, then shifting to first. From what I heard is that a sprocket inside the Transmission is spinning when the clutch is engaged in Neutral, and shifting to first stops it really quick. On higher performance bikes this sprocket is much larger and causes the bike to jolt. Holding the clutch in longer, for around 10 seconds, reduces the jolt significantly.
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May 29, 2009 18:42
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MourningGlory posted:I'm still on the factory tires (whatever Suzuki put on the 07's) and the rear is starting to show a square profile. So I'm starting to look into new tires for both ends. I'm looking for something that has good grip, wet and dry. Tread life isn't much of a concern--I ride frequently, but I don't actually put all that many miles on the bike, maybe a couple hundred per week. So if the tires last only 3000-4000 miles, that's fine. Price isn't too big of a deal either. Cheaper is always better of course, but I will gladly spend the extra money for high quality stuff. Bridgestone BT16s are amazing. I've never slipped in the dry on them in turns, even scraping my footpegs at 80mph. I also over inflated them, reducing my traction even more. Had I properly inflated them I would have more traction over painted surfaces and in the rain. My friend uses Michelin Pilot Power 2CTs, which are actually the same as the Bridgestone, although there is a slight difference noticable if you do track riding. The price difference for my bike was $50 though between the two due to "currency conversion" (Bridgestone is Japanese, Michelin is French)
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May 29, 2009 18:47
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Z3n posted:What the hell? There is absolutely a difference between the Bridgestones and the Michelins. Such as?
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May 29, 2009 20:11
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dietcokefiend posted:HID lighting is the best thing EVER! Hell yea.  My SV-1000-S has two of them. Friends on their commute say I blind them in their mirrors in the middle of the day. :O
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May 30, 2009 23:12
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Zenaida posted:I need some turn signals for a gen one S-model. I'd prefer stockers, but whatever's clever. Also if anyone has a silver right side fairing... I got 2 or 3 stock bulky ones (Suzuki SV-1000-S 2005), plus 2 micro arrows. Email sent. Although if I were you I would go with Motrax LED turn signals. Holy crap are they bright and they use less power. 
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Jun 10, 2009 05:57
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Does anyone have comparison videos of different SV exhausts?dietcokefiend posted:Just got back from my first ride with the stock exhaust. It sound like a can of angry bees and a mixture of rawrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. I think it is hilarious and awesome. Sooooo loving quiet not compared to what it was before. I love it. There's also a definite noticeable difference in performance between the slip on Yoshimura and stock exhaust. Charles 1998 fucked around with this message at 02:51 on Jun 19, 2009 |
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Jun 19, 2009 02:49
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dietcokefiend posted:Ok time for some HID pictures of the XE7 system on my 2007 SV650 They make HIDs in a yellowish color? I thought they only came in white and down the spectrum to purple. These are my HIDs and they're the same brightness as yours in your pictures. 
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Jul 9, 2009 06:07
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Coredump posted:Hahaha you put hid bulbs in stock reflectors. And by hahaha I mean dammit man you're blinding yourself and everyone else. A more lit up road makes myself blind?  Also I didn't put it in. Both only cost me $100 since one of the high beam bulbs was damaged and a friend of mine installed them. The stock reflectors work fine and I can stare at the light directly from an angle slightly higher than the bulb, and even stare directly at the bulb. The top of the reflecter is bright as hell though and when I look from even level or lower it hurts my eyes. So I blind people a lot during the day cause of my wheelies. :P Charles 1998 fucked around with this message at 00:48 on Jul 10, 2009 |
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Jul 10, 2009 00:46
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Was this a good deal, I just got an email about it and bidded on it immediatly. Won it for $37 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260470184478  Everything seen in this was included. I smashed up my bike good on a turn and bent the brake lever and tore the foot peg off.
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Sep 5, 2009 02:18
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Z3n posted:Sure, if you're looking for a 2007 SV650 rear brake set. The peg is probably slightly bent, if you're looking for functional it'll be fine. I dunno if that lever will be fixable without it cracking. ITEM SOLD IN GOOD WORKING CONDITION NO DAMAGE Also the brake pedal looks straight in that shot. Cool thing about SVs is parts are pretty standard across both 650s and 1000s, along with years 03-09
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Sep 5, 2009 07:22
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benwards posted:I recently bought a naked 05 SV650 and I've been riding it to work every day since. It's at about 17k miles (bought it at 16k), and I have no maintenance history, though I know the oil is clean, etc. Had the same problem. Soon as I changed the oil it went away.
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Sep 11, 2009 07:44
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On my sv 1000 I replaced both the handlebars, but now I can't get the triple clamp (not the main one underneath, the top cover one) to get on all the way. It may be because the forks are slightly bent, but I was told by someone that the fasteners may have been jolted in the high speed crash and that if I just loosen all the bolts and screws, then re-tighten them back up everything will re-align. Is this true, has anyone ever heard or done this?
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Oct 6, 2009 22:57
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Thanks, and I got one more question: How do I properly align the handlebars? Any tools or techniques that can be recommended? I of course need to have both sides the exact same height and angle. And, is there a recommended angle and height? I want the most lean forward, in control, racing body position (I've been doing it so long I feel more comfortable than sitting up).
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Oct 7, 2009 00:15
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Z3n posted:SVs often get water in the front cylinder spark plug. Check to see if that's what happened. People will rig up little plug guards to avoid it. Pull the part that attaches to the plug (why can't I think of it's name) and see if there's any moisture, if there is, it was grounding out there. My sister's SV 650 didn't even have a part covering the hole!
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Oct 14, 2009 14:40
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Would an SV 650 2004 sub frame fit an SV 1000 2005?
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Oct 15, 2009 20:25
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I actually just called the dealership after my mom said "Call the dealer". They said yes, but then I asked them how they knew. They said they have a computer to cross reference it. I guess I'll take detailed pictures of my sub frame and compared it to the one online.
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Oct 16, 2009 01:06
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Z3n posted:They don't. Different part numbers and the parts are visually physically different. OH MY GOD I love you for giving me that site! I've been looking for a site with schematics for a while!!!!!!
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Oct 16, 2009 01:42
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Here's a comparison: The only thing that looks wrong is a bracket that isn't present is a bracket with 4 screws on the right side, but in this picture I don't see any bracket or anything mounted to it: 
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Oct 16, 2009 01:57
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Z3n posted:Notice the longer lower assembly on one of them. That's going to be a problem. ah ok.
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Oct 16, 2009 02:07
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I am planning to intergrate my turn signals. However on the front I'm indecisive. I was thinking of replacing the blue LED lights, in the headlight assembly, with yellow LEDs that flashed. However, the ambient blue color is really nice and I don't want to lose that. So instead I was thinking about making a relay that kept the light on, but flashed it when the turn signals came on. However that would probably not be viisble enough. My question is: Is there a way to have two colors in the same part of the headlight assembly?
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Oct 29, 2009 21:55
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Captain Apollo posted:I think I get like 38 miles to the gallon. Any suggestions on how to get better? Not really sure... That's pretty impressive, I get 25 on mine.
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Mar 13, 2010 07:44
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