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Jack the Smack posted:You can literally grab both the positive and the negative parts with wet fingers and you wont get anything more than a tingling sensation. Just be careful if you're wearing anything conductive. If you short the terminals, the battery can deliver huge amounts of current (since it has to do this to run the starter), which will heat or even melt the conductor. And burn whatever it's touching. People have lost fingers wearing rings, for example.
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Feb 21, 2009 18:49
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I finally got around to putting in Intiminators last weekend. And they feel great. The horrible front end dive when braking is a lot better. And the bike just 'feels' better. It's hard to really describe. But there's a lot less slop in the bike's movement when I'm setting up for turns and such. And so I've found myself having a lot more confidence on turns and so being able to take them faster. Now I'm looking to do something about the rear suspension, next. But that seems like it's going to take some research. It seems like everyone has their own recommendation. Does anyone know of a good guide to that kind of stuff?
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Aug 15, 2009 22:36
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Ambihelical Hexnut posted:2) the steering is insanely different at low speeds. My KTM on asphalt pretty much acts like the ol' MSF rule of below 10mph means regular steering and above means countersteering; in fact it behaves exactly like a bicycle in that regard. The SV feels more like below 5mph is regular steering, 5-20mph is regular steering where the wheel darts heavily in the turned direction making a constant turn angle at low speeds much more difficult, and above 20 is countersteering. I'm pretty sure this is entirely because of the radically different steering geometries of the two bikes, and I'm getting used to it but low speed maneuvering feels like day 1 of riding all over again. How worn are your tires? When I first got my SV, it handled like this. The tires had a wide commuter flat strip. As soon as I got new tires, I was amazed at how much easier low speed maneuvering became.
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May 13, 2010 00:12
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HClChicken posted:So I don't know how but my clutch was feeling kind of wonky. It was loser than I remember. I had installed pazzo levers so I was able to push them rather than pull to see the wound cable is broken. Maybe 2 out of the 8 or so wires are snapped near the connection. You can get an OEM cable for like $20 online. It's pretty simple to replace, at least on the naked. Someone else can chime in about how it is if you've got farings. If you've replaced the levers, then you know how to do what's probably the trickiest part. Otherwise it's just routing the cable. Remember to lube the cable before you get going, and when you're done follow the first two steps here to adjust it. Enilev fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Oct 31, 2010 |
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Oct 31, 2010 02:21
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Infinotize posted:I had a SW Motech rack and Givi monokey topcase. I have this setup (the case I use is the E45). It works pretty well. I can fit all of my gear (jacket, boots, pants, gloves) in it (helmet hangs from the helmet lock under the pillion seat). And so it's great if I'm going someplace where I don't want to haul around gear, like hiking. The rack was simple to put on, and the adapter plate takes three quick screw turns to put on the rack. I have a screwdriver (like this) on the same keychain as the luggage key that works perfectly. With the adapter plate off, it's innocent-looking, unlike some luggage racks I've seen. Since it's a top rack, it doesn't extend any farther out than my elbows do when I'm riding, so I don't have to worry about it when lane splitting or anything. It seems to handle loads just fine. I've had cases of beer and other moderately heavy things in there like camping gear, and nothing bad seems to have come of it. Of course, it does change the balance a little, but I've never had any problems adjusting. I guess it looks a little odd and attracts more attention than normal, but I don't mind.
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Apr 5, 2011 05:24
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