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I just drove this home tonight:  2004 SV650
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Feb 18, 2009 02:18
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 07:05 |
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Yeah, frame sliders and swingarm spools are first on the list. I'll probably do that sometime next week. I ate up a chunk of my tax return so I'll give it a few days.
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Feb 18, 2009 04:02
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Some of the higher priced used models are priced that way because the seller is trying to get back what they owe on it. Also, keep in mind that the $6,000 sticker price of a new bike does not include tax, title, registration, dealer fees, shipping, etc. Most of the extra costs could potentially put the final price closer to $8,000.
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Mar 6, 2009 21:52
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Simkin posted:P.S. The color scheme is gross.
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Apr 9, 2009 20:09
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Huh, I think farts are funny too.
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Apr 29, 2009 04:17
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Congrats on the new bike, I like it. I'm not sure I like how the headlight looks since I'm so used to the stock headlight. My riding buddy calls it the butthole headlight.dietcokefiend posted:Only complaint is the drat seat of rear end rapage. I can't stand it. I thought it felt nice at first, but the shape forces all of the pressure right into my rear end on the lower edge of my pubic area.
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May 30, 2009 23:41
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dietcokefiend posted:Weill in my case it was the difference between a smoothly operating SV and one that would pop and have a lean condition. Does the FI system need to be retuned when making a dramatic change in the exhaust system? Or is the computer in the system designed to reprogram itself when it notices changes? If so, in the case with your Jardine, did your FI not get reprogrammed? edit: grammar jdonz fucked around with this message at 20:31 on Jun 19, 2009 |
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Jun 19, 2009 16:59
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Makes sense. I've heard a few differing opinions, mostly in favor of rejetting. A couple months ago I was in a dealership talking to one of the salesman about exhaust and specifically asked him about rejetting. He mentioned that part of selling the rejetting with exhaust was because dealers could extort some more money for the work. One of these days I'd like to put some new exhaust on my SV but I can't make a decision on what I want. I'm kind of a loner (surprise,surprise) and the few friends I do have don't ride, so I don't know what a bunch of different exhausts sound like. I can read about how other people like the sound of theirs, but I'm not going to base spending ~$500 - $900 without hearing it myself. I'm sure its been asked a thousand times, but what are the pros and cons of going with a slip-on versus a full system? I think I prefer a full system but that is probably because I think (for no reason I can think of) putting a slip-on is kind of half-assing it. Also, I can get rid of my golding/blueing pipes with a full system. Other than price (equipment and rejetting if necessary) are there any other reasons for installing a slip-on versus a full system?
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Jun 19, 2009 20:42
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dietcokefiend posted:Ordered a corbin seat for my sv650 in all leather all around. Should be smooth sailing for my rear end in no time. God the stock seat is horrid. Would you mind posting a trip report when you get it installed? gently caress, between exhaust, suspension and seat, I'm having a hard time deciding where I should spend the little money I have.
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Jun 24, 2009 22:41
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Z3n posted:Do you have a gen one or 2? Gen 2, its a 2004. I checked our your seat (not  ) in the sell your poo poo thread. I was bummed it was for a gen 1.
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Jun 24, 2009 23:00
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dietcokefiend posted:Corbin seat just shipped today, should arrive Friday My  and I are waiting anxiously for the report.
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Jun 30, 2009 19:52
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dietcokefiend posted:What is your size? My 5'8" and 185lbs, I'd imagine some of your experiences will still transfer.
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Jun 30, 2009 20:46
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Does anyone have any recommendations for bar-end mirrors(2004 naked)? I'm interested in function as well as style, but I'm not sure if those go hand in hand when it comes to bar-end mirrors. I'll be replacing the stock mirrors and I think I'd prefer a black finish to match the grips and rest of the black parts on the bars. Fake Edit: Search is down, I'm lazy and didn't feel like going through 15 pages 
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Jul 1, 2009 04:10
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coredump posted:Check out the napolean bar end mirrors. Jay_Zombie posted:Napolean bar ends are awesome. Alright, almost sold. Napoleon only makes the one style AP-104 bar end? I like the looks of Jay_Zombie's mirrors in the picture, if those are the one's Bike Bandit has here I'll order them soon.
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Jul 1, 2009 19:19
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I want to say OrangeFurious has them on his Triumph, if so, I saw them when we met for the pig handoff. I'm not sure if he reads the SV thread to comment. I don't understand how the levers get in the way. I read that on a few of the reviews I found. I can't picture my levers extending past the end of the bar. I'll have a look at lunch when I go outside. Update: I ordered the mirrors from Bike Bandit, $28 (and change) a piece. I also ordered a manual and a replacement clutch lever. I'll post some pics when I get the mirrors installed, should be a week or so for shipping. jdonz fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Jul 2, 2009 |
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Jul 1, 2009 20:07
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I can't tell if you like it or not... I guess time will tell. I got my Haynes manual the other day, I was pleasantly surprised to see it was hardcover. Although the downside to it being hardcover is that I'm less likely to put it through the table saw to take off the binder so I can digitize and share it (is that cool to do?). I still may scan a few pages and post them up for everyone if thats cool. I was thinking wiring diagrams and maintenance intervals. My mirrors and clutch lever should be here today.
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Jul 8, 2009 18:03
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I'll have to keep an eye out for errors. The manual I got is '00 - '08 but each section (if applicable) are divided by X - K3 and K4 and up. I don't have it in front of me or I'd post the ISBN for reference. Either way, thanks for the heads up, I appreciate it.
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Jul 8, 2009 18:58
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I got the mirrors installed tonight. Here are the mirrors in the packaging:   Apparently, the mirrors aren't "bar end" mirrors, they are Baren  Did I get knockoffs? The bike before:   With the stock mirrors Old parts removed:  Stock mirrors and the bar end weights The bike with the new mirrors:   The bar end weights were a bitch to get off. I tried to loosen them with a beefy Phillips but they wouldn't budge, I ended up twisting them off by hand. The Napoleons were easy to install. All you basically have to do is insert the mounting end into the bar end and tighten a #6 Allen bolt. The bolt and corresponding nut compress a rubber cylinder which forces the cylinder to expand, securing the mount inside the bar end. After adjusting the mirrors, I did end up having a problem with the brake lever end hitting the mirror stalk. The solution was to adjust the control pod, and attached brake lever, a few millimeters downward. The control pod bolts were 8mm. I also installed a new clutch lever, my old one had the ball end broken off when I bought it. The new lever was OEM, so it was a straight swap. There is one 10mm bolt that attaches the clutch lever to the lever mount. The lever replacement was as easy as pulling the bolt out, removing the lever, removing the clutch cable, placing the clutch cable into the new lever, mounting the new lever and securing the bolt. I ended up over-tightening the bolt a bit and the clutch lever wasn't rebounding as quickly as it should. I shot some lube in the mount and loosened the bolt a bit and it works fine now. I took the bike for a quick ride with the new mirrors and so far I like them. I adjusted the mirrors so the stalks are perpendicular to the bars, not like the pictures show. With the 90 degree setup I can see the tail section of the bike and I can actually see across to the opposite lane fairly close behind me. The mirrors articulate quite a bit, I can even push them farther out if I wanted to. Functionality wise they seem better than stock so far. I also like the look of the front end much better than with the stock mirrors. Bonus pictures:    Fake Edit: sorry for the lovely lighting in the pictures
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Jul 9, 2009 06:00
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mike fictitious posted:gently caress you for posting this. I wish I took pictures with them actually lined up and adjusted, they look even better when they aren't wonky. They worked well on the commute this morning, no complaints, just a minor adjustment from stock.
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Jul 9, 2009 19:02
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Bummer. I wonder if there is a batch of bad stands or you just got one bad one. What made you decide to put the Jardine back on?
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Jul 15, 2009 16:37
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dietcokefiend posted:IT is still mostly assemblied and I just wanted to make sure it hadnt been smushed since it was laying on the ground under the bike when it tipped over. Testing fitting it I realized it was going to clear still. Sorry, I wasn't clear. Didn't you put the stock exhaust back on when you got it? I was under the impression you didn't like the sound the Jardine made, which is why I was asking why you put the Jardine back on.
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Jul 15, 2009 17:39
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I'm getting ready to replace my chain and I could use a little help choosing one. BikeBandit.com shows chains from RK, EK, BikeMaster, Tsubaki and Regina. I don't have a clue as to what brand is reputable, can anyone make a recommendation? Do I want an o-ring or and x-ring? The current (original) chain I have is a D.I.D. 525 V8:  Click here for the full 640x480 image. According to the DID website what I need is a 110 link 525VM2. As far as I can tell the 525VM2 is an x-ring. Should I stay with a D.I.D. or go with a different brand, x-ring or o-ring? I have less than 6000 miles on the original chain, but I'm pretty sure the rings dried out when the PO let is sit for four years. When I started cleaning it regularly (maybe not the best idea to use WD-40) I'm pretty sure it broke down the rings. I've been seeing some faint red residue on the chain. You can see a little bit of it in the picture, but I'll try to post a more recent one tonight.
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Jul 17, 2009 23:10
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Z3n posted:I'm using an RK XO-ring chain. Proper care is way more important than brand, so buy whatever's cheapest and take good care of it. Roger that, thanks for the input.
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Jul 18, 2009 21:07
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If you have the scratch just get the Pitbull, at least for peace of mind. DietCokeFiend (it was his right?) had a lovely Harbor Freight stand collapse.
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Sep 14, 2009 17:33
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Do you have spools on your swingarm? You can get a stand that does both: http://www.pit-bull.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PBMSA&Product_Code=F0028-000&Category_Code=rear_stands Swingarm spools are pretty cheap and super handy, I'd recommend them. Edit: Spools are here: http://www.newenoughhp.com/parts/swingarm_spools/vortex_racing/swingarm_spools_suzuki.html I'm not sure if the thread size changes between generations. I have a second gen and mine are 8mm. jdonz fucked around with this message at 02:34 on Sep 15, 2009 |
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Sep 15, 2009 02:32
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Captain Apollo posted:It's starting to cool down here in Texas, time to get back on my bike Back from the dead! Good to see you alive and kicking 
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Oct 6, 2009 07:54
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I love the belly on the N models. Where did you get it from and was it color matched? My 04 is the same color, Candy Grand Blue I think.
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Feb 18, 2010 04:32
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The SV looks great. The door opener is a good idea. I went with a keychain and that stays on my key all the time, but your button is something I may try. I just ordered the Hotbodies undertail kit. I don't have a clue when it will be here, hopefully by next weekend. I'll document the installation and post here to let you know if its worth it.
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Feb 20, 2010 00:12
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I realized after I bought the hotbodies kit that it doesn't come with a plate light. I'll probably end up with a white led, but I'm not sure yet. We'll find out when the package gets here. I installed a new slip on tonight and went for a 50 mile ride to burn the oil off. Yoshimura RS-3 Race Slip-on Exhaust - Stainless Mid Pipe:  I forgot to take a picture before I cut the stock pipe.  The Yoshimura instructions say to remove the rear wheel and also suggest taking the rear shock out. gently caress that. I used a sawsall with a six inch blade.  I think it was 24 tooth per inch. It worked pretty good. I did end up nicking the swingarm right as I cut through the last part of pipe. You can see it, barely, in the previous picture right above the cut pipe.  Old and new.  Prior to clamping and hanging.  The lower clamp. Instructions called for drilling a 3/16" hole inside of the hole shown in the picture. There is a rivet that gets pushed in the hole and sits flush with the Yoshimura pipe. The clamp gets lined up over the rivet and torqued down on top of it.   All clamped up. I did wash the can/pipe to get all the oil and fingerprints off of it before I started it up.  Finished product. I didn't look at the clock, but it felt like 45 to 60 minutes for the installation. I went for a ride with a friend of mine to burn the oil off and to hear how the can sounded. I love the new sound, a huge, huge improvement from the stock can. There was also a noticeable boost in performance too. I didn't expect much, the midrange power seems to have improved. I don't have a Power Commander so I made no changes to the fueling system. The bike ran great and doesn't seem to need a remapping. In case you noticed the chicken strips, yes, I'm slow as molasses...  When the new chain gets here, these are next on the list. jdonz fucked around with this message at 19:05 on Feb 24, 2010 |
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Feb 20, 2010 07:28
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Quick question regarding chain slack: I use the Haynes manual for reference. From the description in the Haynes book it looks like I measure the distance between the bottom of the swingarm and the top of the chain while pushing the chain up towards the swingarm. A friend disagreed with this method and said I should measure the amount of play in the chain; the distance when pushing the chain up and then pulling it down. Which is the correct way to measure?
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Feb 24, 2010 19:05
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Awesome, thanks guys. My new chain arrived yesterday, I'll be installing the sprockets and chain this weekend. I'll take some pics of the process and post them afterwards. I'm not sure if I'll get the Intiminators (thanks Endless Mike) installed this weekend or not, I hope to. The installation calls for: ricor posted:Installation is easy. Drain the fork oil, remove the spring, drop in the Intiminator, add oil then the spring and away you go. Do I want to replace the fork seals while I'm in there? As far as I can tell there is no way to drain the forks from the bottom, so I'll need to remove them anyway. Can I drain from the bottom? There is no evidence of leaking forks now, its more of a preventative measure. I realize it will create a shitload more work, but if its worth it, I'll do it.
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Feb 24, 2010 22:25
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NitroSpazzz posted:I did a bit of a road trip Saturday on the SV. 500 miles of interstate, boring but the bike did well and I was pretty comfortable. I'm wondering what sort of MPG people are getting on their SV650's on the interstate. Mine is a 99 naked model with a slip-on, otherwise stock and I only managed 35mpg sitting at 6000rpm all day. Also about what speed would 6k rpm be? My speedo broke a long time ago and I finally ordered a new one Friday...wondering how fast I was actually going. At 6k in sixth gear I'm doing roughly 80mph on an 04 naked. Its been a long time since I've checked but I used to average between around 45mpg, with a high of 51 and a low in the low 40s.
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Mar 8, 2010 15:57
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For you guys with Intiminators, did you cut the spacer down or leave it stock? I've heard positive reviews of both cut spacers and stock, but I'm on the fence on what I should do. I plan on using the stock spring and AMSOIL Shock Therapy #5 as per the instructions. Ricor install tips: Ricor posted:The Intiminators add 13.75mm of preload to the forks. For the same pre-Intiminator preload reduce the length of the fork spacer by 13.75mm. Does anyone have any comments/thoughts or better yet, real world experience?
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Apr 24, 2010 23:13
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I'm in denial, 5'8" and 190lbs. I'm starting to take off the wheel and forks now, wish me luck. I'm paranoid after reading Tsaven's post. Edit: gently caress, I don't have an allen/hex wrench for the axle, off to the store. jdonz fucked around with this message at 00:05 on Apr 25, 2010 |
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Apr 24, 2010 23:55
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Install went fine, no problems. I went for a quick ride just to get a feel for the intiminators. First impressions is that steering is a fair bit more sensitive but no major improvements on small bumps. I didn't get a chance to hit anything big, I'll be able to on Monday for the much longer commute to work.
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Apr 25, 2010 08:25
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echomadman posted:The real improvement the intiminators made for my sv was practically eliminating brake dive, the suspension works a whole lot better now under hard braking. Alright, 20 more miles with the Intiminators. Brake dive is much less noticeable, I had to consciously test that as I don't often hammer on the brake. The one sweeper (about 65mph, faster riders could hit it much higher) I hit daily felt different too. I need a few more passes on that to really get a feel for it. The front didn't feel unstable, just "different", like the the suspension was much more sensitive. I could feel the undulations in the road smoothly, not jarring. The price I paid for them (thanks Endless Mike) makes it worth it so far. I'm not sure I would spend $300 but I don't think I have enough miles on them to make that call yet.
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Apr 26, 2010 17:25
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Endless Mike sold me his unused pair of Ricors. I didn't change the springs but I did put in the AMSOIL Shock Therapy. Either way, they were a snap to install. Honestly, I'm a slow, lovely rider and the only difference I noticed was improved braking. I'm sure a better rider would be able to get more out of them.
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Dec 3, 2010 23:58
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Now that I have two bikes I think I have the balls to do the valves on my SV. I poked around on Bike Bandit and found a shim kit. I don't know if thats expensive, lovely brand, etc. Can anyone comment or recommend a shim kit? Also, are there any special tools I need to do this on a 2004 SV650N with 20k miles on the odometer? I have the typical range of sockets, breaker bars, torque wrenches but I'm not sure what I'll need. I have the Haynes manual so I'll research there first, but I was hoping for some first hand experience. After the valves I'll probably have a shop do the throttle body sync.
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Jan 7, 2011 23:55
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You are right, I haven't checked the clearances. But, I also don't want to wait a week to get the shims after I find out what I need. I haven't really decided what I'll do yet, we'll see.
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Jan 8, 2011 00:50
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 07:05 |
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In an effort to revive this thread, two things: 1. I am getting ready to flush/refill my brake lines soon. Is it a worthwhile upgrade to install better brake lines? If so, which ones? Galfer? 2. Brake pad suggestions. They will be used for commuting in Phoenix, so wet weather performance is not an issue.
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Feb 18, 2011 03:47
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