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My sv the day i got it, in march 2005 some of its adventures      crashed it about 2 years ago, lowsided on a load of gravel in a bend. it still has all that fairing rash, and is largely held together with duct tape as i only fixed the indicators and the busted footpeg hanger. i had intended to fix it up real nice over the winter but my f650 developed some oil leak issues so its back to being a daily driver again. the can is obscenely loud, i've stuck a db killer in it to try to annoy the neighbours less but its messed my fueling up a bit, seems very rich at low rpm now as its jetted for the straight through pipe and desnorkeled airbox. TRE mod is done and i have a 4degree ignition advancer to fit once i have a reliable commuter hack again. all in all its a great bike and doesn't owe me a thing, its out in all weathers all year round and rarely misses a beat.
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Nov 14, 2008 19:31
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Spiffness posted:150 at the track? Not without a REALLY impressive list of mods. thats a thousand not a 650, my 650's done 130mph according to my gps, think it was indicating 145ish. SV1000 should ge good for a genuine 150mph jujube posted:Cool, gonna do this tomorrow. you'll need a dremel to make it not a pain in the rear end, first filter i did it by drilling holes then cutting with a hacksaw blade, that was tedious. last filter i just used a cut off wheel on the dremel, took 5 mins total echomadman fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Nov 15, 2008 |
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Nov 15, 2008 20:46
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Atomic Hotdog posted:So my '99 didn't start today. Engine isn't really turning, I think my battery died? When press the ignition button, everything just goes out and nothing happens. push starting SV's sucks, you really need a hill, or better yet, a battery charger. My sv fried its rectifier, burned up the wires in the section between the stator and the regulator somehow, have repaired the wiring and the resistance and output of the stator are in spec so that's a relief. the replacement R/R i got of my old gsxr 400 doesnt seem to pass the diode tests but i think it may be my multimeter, if its shot two i luckily have one off another gsxr400 and my old bandit 250 available. good old Suzuki parts bin bikes
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Dec 9, 2008 00:13
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Christobevii3 posted:How hard is it to restrict the sv650 to 33hp for beginning use? if its the curvy then its two washers between the carbs and the engine, if its the pointy then you need a 33bhp ecu
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Feb 7, 2009 21:36
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Christobevii3 posted:It is a 2004, so would that probably be an ecu one? Where can I buy that ecu then? do you legally have to restrict it? if you don't then don't bother, as retarded as jack the smack is, what he said is basically true. the restriction only affects top end power, makes top speed 100 instead of 130ish. it will not makes the bike magically easier to ride.
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Feb 7, 2009 22:00
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Captain Apollo posted:I know where the battery is i've been having R/R problems on mine recently so I'm intimately familiar with changing the batter on the sv now. first remove the side covers, seat and pull the fusebox and its mounting bracket up out of the way. using a big screwdriver remove the negative lead first, push it back out of the way, then remove the positive lead and lift out your battery. typically assembly is the reverse of removal, in fine haynes tradition
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Feb 18, 2009 20:57
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I've jumped it before.
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Simkin posted:Does anyone have rough suggestions for what the jets should be on a 1st gen SV, with a full exhaust system and modified airbox? My friend's bike has a pretty obnoxious flatspot (it couples well with the obnoxiously loud exhaust from http://www.geocities.com/catpoopman/sv650_rejet.html quote:Pilots: 17.5
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Apr 25, 2009 17:19
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), and as far as we're aware, the jetting wasn't changed from stock when a full Hindle exhaust was put on. He was thinking of getting a shop to do the jetting, but that just sounds like a big waste of cash, especially since none of the shops around here have a dyno, they just test and tune on any long stretch of road. 
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dietcokefiend posted:http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/mcy/1189154315.html craigslist guy posted:This SV has the complete front end and rear end from a 2001 GXSR750. i'd pass on it to be honest you're buying someone else's half assed repair job and all the pursuant problems that inevitably crop up.
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May 26, 2009 20:22
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dietcokefiend posted:This included a few more pictures they're conventional forks, all the 750's have upside down (USD) forks
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May 26, 2009 21:04
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looks tidy enough apart from the horrendous headlight, sounds good too, its amazing how quiet a stock one is. the shifter sounds a bit odd, a gp shift is up for 1st and down for 2-6, that bikes sounds like a normal shift pattern with no 1st gear. edit: close up that weld looks a bit lovely, i only have experience with welding steel but all that bubbling and porous looking poo poo on top of the bead isnt encouraging echomadman fucked around with this message at 01:14 on May 27, 2009 |
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May 27, 2009 01:10
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i think kwaks have some sort of "positive neutral finder" bullshit gimmick, maybe you're just used to that and a "normal" shifter feels different, are you sure there definitely wasn't a gear when you pushed down through neutral? you can go from 2nd directly into neutral on most bikes. sometimes first can be hard to get into without a bit of pressure or a little slip of the clutch edit: in other news my sv is getting a new chain and sprockets (+3 rear sprocket) this weekend and a set of those intiminators as soon as they arrive from americay. should make it feel like a new bike. echomadman fucked around with this message at 01:21 on May 27, 2009 |
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May 27, 2009 01:18
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dietcokefiend posted:The bike was off at the time, could that have caused it? I was making sure it was in N before I started it, since I didnt want to look like a jackass ramming his bike into the wall as I let off the clutch to walk around the bike idling that'll do it, first on my sv can only be attained when the engine's turning
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May 27, 2009 01:21
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dietcokefiend posted:Also considering I will be riding 3 hours on the bike for the first rider ever on another bike, what might be different handling wise with the sv650 over my zx600? You mentioned higher lowend power before. Will the brakes act much different with the ABS under normal conditions? the sv and zx are in the same ballpark for power, just different delivery. take it easy for the first few miles then you'll be fine.
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May 28, 2009 18:47
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dietcokefiend posted:P.S. Just swapped back to my stock exhaust system, someone buy this Jardine thing. I hate low toned thumping exhausts. I prefer the stock stealthy style Thats just sad, you could have got a dBkiller for the jardine. Stock SV's sound like poo poo.
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Jun 17, 2009 18:21
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mike fictitious posted:I only ended up with 1 extra screw. No idea where it goes. It is a single, tiny screw that had no mate (unlike everything else I pulled off). http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm..._COVER_MODEL_K1 i fitted a new clutch (steel plates and fibre plates) and heavier springs to stop the slipping which had gotten really bad with the -1 front sprocket. its like a new bike now, had to recalibrate my throttle hand quite a bit, obviously there was a lot of slip going on for ages and i'd gotten used to it.
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Jun 30, 2009 19:36
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dietcokefiend posted:Trying to find oil drain plug crush washers for the SV, and only seem to find one that costs like 83 cents or whatever at Ron Ayers for what amounts to an aluminum washer. you can reuse the old one, anneal it if you're that worried about it. my 8 year old sv is still on its first one, no leaks.
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Jul 14, 2009 13:49
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jdonz posted:I'm getting ready to replace my chain and I could use a little help choosing one. BikeBandit.com shows chains from RK, EK, BikeMaster, Tsubaki and Regina. I don't have a clue as to what brand is reputable, can anyone make a recommendation?
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Jul 18, 2009 16:42
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NitroSpazzz posted:Two questions about your bikes and the gsxr upgrade. Where were you able to find these bikes with upgrades for these prices? i just fitted a set of those imtiminators http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=100825 to my sv and its like a new bike, way cheaper than a gsxr swap and more than enough of an upgrade for street riding. need to sort the rear shock now though, time to start scouring for a 636 shock.
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Aug 11, 2009 21:01
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Z3n posted:Sent you a PM, have a friend that I think has one kicking around his garage. cool thanks. did a few more miles on the new suspension setup today, the difference is amazing i have to say. I can fling the bike down lovely country lanes that used to rattle the poo poo out of me at high speed before. going over railway lines at 60mph without any major reaction whereas before the shocks consistently bottomed out on that stretch of road at anything over 50mph. The lack of front end dive under braking took a bit of getting used to, i deliberately went over the bumpiest parts of the road especially coming up to junctions, even hard on the brakes the suspension was still able to react to bumps and dips without going rigid and rattling my teeth. All in all, Intiminators are cool poo poo.
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Aug 12, 2009 19:02
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NitroSpazzz posted:I had issues getting it into first one time when I stopped to ask where I was and how to find my way home. Took me a minute to remember that I just needed to rock it back and forth and shift down through the gears. This is why you should downshift when you're coming to a stop, dont clutch in and coast to a halt.
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Sep 12, 2009 12:54
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Z3n posted:SVs (at least first gens) don't have them stock. You can usually get them welded on for cheap though. Phy posted:Fake edit: circled in red here; can't tell if it's tapped though obv. echomadman fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Sep 15, 2009 |
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Sep 15, 2009 20:15
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Z3n posted:Nah, just do the swap. You can't drain from the bottom. take out the allen bolt holding the damper rod and they'll drain out the bottom. but its easier to take the forks out though. i did my fork seals when i put in the intiminators, whie you have the front disassembed you may as well.
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Feb 24, 2010 23:57
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Zool posted:Huge ordeal. no doubt, in the process of half-assing a vrod headlight onto my sv as the fairings were smashed up good, the worst part is hiding all the original wiring. the biggest problem is I'm using the original clocks and they're retardedly huge. have to do until i can affor a veypor or some acewells
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Apr 21, 2010 16:07
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jdonz posted:Install went fine, no problems. I went for a quick ride just to get a feel for the intiminators. First impressions is that steering is a fair bit more sensitive but no major improvements on small bumps. I didn't get a chance to hit anything big, I'll be able to on Monday for the much longer commute to work. The real improvement the intiminators made for my sv was practically eliminating brake dive, the suspension works a whole lot better now under hard braking.
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Apr 25, 2010 12:13
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posted this in the what did you do to your ride thread already. few extra pics here. ghetto fabbed brackets for the light until i can get a buddy to make fancy ones in his machine shop. all the mess of loom and zip-tied indicators will be sorted next month when i get a veypor to replace the stock clocks 
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Apr 28, 2010 20:43
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Weinertron posted:Is there an upgrade or fix that can be done to these thing's charging systems easily? I'm having some battery problems. read these, get a multimeter and test your system http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/pdf/diode-testing-guide.pdf If its your r/r replace it with one of these, they're way better than oem and better than the electrosport upgrade too, unless electrosport are doing mosfet r/rs now http://www.roadstercycle.com/Vmax%20charging%20system%20repair.htm
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Jul 14, 2010 18:12
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Captain Apollo posted:god damnit somebody tell me whether to get my forks done or get new suspensions.sd.fas.df. i'd recommend putting in intiminators over a full front end swap, they are an amazing upgrade to the stock front shocks., then get a gsxr shock for the rear and get it rebuilt for the sv., probably do all that for less than the cost of a buying and fitting a new front end.
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Jul 20, 2010 00:29
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Loucks posted:I fooled around with my stock mirrors, but I still find myself having to tuck my elbows in and lean a bit to see what's behind me. Who has upgraded mirrors and what do you think of them? you must have wide shoulders, i never had a problem with the stock sv mirrors. you can buy spacers for them http://www.chewys-stuff.co.uk/mirror_spacers/9902sv-mirror_spacers.htm or you could make your own
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Aug 13, 2010 12:28
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Z3n posted:It's the line that goes from the brake fluid reservoir to the master cylinder. You'll need to replace the MC. The mirrors mount to the front of the fairing. This is a good time to upgrade to a better MC, afaik certain years of R6 MC are a direct bolt on. You can buy mirror clamps that fit on the clipons behind the switchgear that you can mount generic mirrors to.
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Sep 1, 2010 03:21
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GanjamonII posted:Apologies if this has been done to death before.. I have a question about shock upgrades. I am rocking the stock rear shock and forks and weigh somewhere around 200lbs with gear. The rear is only adjustable for preload right? and from what I've read the stockers are set up for 150lbs riders which I'm definitely not. I saved this from a thread on some SV forum ages ago, there might be a more up to date version around now quote:YEAR MOTORCYCLE LENGTH SPRING
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Oct 5, 2010 01:38
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Enilev posted:You can get an OEM cable for like $20 online. just duct tape the new cable to one end of the old one and pull it through, that saves pissing around trying to route it. this assumes that the cable you are replacing is routed correctly. Takes about 10 minutes in total to change the cable on an sv
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Oct 31, 2010 02:24
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This pdf should be stickied at the top of the forum http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf I replaced my r/r 4 times on my sv (all with equally poo poo older models pulled from scrapped bikes because i was broke) until i bought one of those Shindengen FH012AA MOSFET R/Rs from http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen%20FH012AA%20Regulator%20upgrade%20kit.htm Have had no problem with anything electrical since.
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Nov 2, 2010 15:45
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if you can get it indoors overnight and let it warm up it should start, failing that i have used to use a heatgun on the sump, oilfilter, through the radiator and on the cylinders. but its tedious and doesn't always work. dont use a heatgun on the clutch cover, its plastic and prone to warping
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Dec 21, 2010 17:47
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harm0nic posted:Is there an aftermarket for instrument clusters? I'm rocking the stock one on my '02 sv650n right now - I'd like something a little more modern. I have an Acewell on my sv, its the most basic model and was a piece of piss to wire up. I'd have preferred to get a Veypor as it can use the stock speedo output and generally has way cooler features but i got the acewell for free so i'm happy with it. https://picasaweb.google.com/edmacmahon/Sv#5583981453203032130 edit, also thats a vrod headlight in case anyone was going to ask
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Mar 29, 2011 17:55
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eggyolk posted:but it's also made my odometer stop working which complicates filling up. Is your fuel warning light broken too? why use the odometer at all.
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Apr 14, 2011 17:42
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Weinertron posted:My sidestand is droopy and has a ton of play in it, seems like there is a bolt missing as the sidestand is able to move around a ton in all four directions. Anyway, it finally caused a problem by killing the bike as I went over a big bump, so now I need to look at fixing my sidestand or bypassing the switch. I had to shorten my springs a bit to keep suitable tension on my sidestand as it was cutting the ignition whenever i hit a severe bump. Take them off, cut off the loop at one end and bend in a new loop, it'll do until you can buy new springs (or as in my case it's been fine for 2 years)
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Apr 21, 2011 16:37
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Fangs404 posted:Excellent, this is exactly what I needed to hear. I'm hoping it's just the battery, but if I find it drains abnormally fast after replacing it, I'll look towards the R/R. Is the R/R a universal part that fits on all bikes, or is it just happenstance that the CBR R/R fits on an '01 SV650S? http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf get a mulitmeter and print that out. if you're buying a new r/r pretty much any one can be spliced in but i recommend the FH012AA Mosfet R/R, you can find them on ebay they're fitted oem to most new yamahas, i bought mine off this guy http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen%20FH012AA%20Regulator%20upgrade%20kit.htm they dont fit in the stock location but you can easily mount them under the back seat as the cables in his kit are nice and long
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May 3, 2011 12:23
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Fangs404 posted:
Drive a bigger torx head bit into the stripped out socket, use an impact driver if you can get one, electric/air/manual or else get a bigass breaker bar.
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May 5, 2011 21:24
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bladesamurai posted:So I'm having a continuation of the SV325 issues. I haven't touched the bike since last Sunday when I rode in heavy rain (as it hasn't really stopped raining until today). Today after work I cleared the drain and pulled off the spark plug wire. The connector was wet so I dried that off, and cleaned the... spark plug tube? As best I could with a paper towel until it was dry. Put it all back together, and VROOM, 2 cylinders again. I head inside to put on my gear and run it around the block to recharge the battery a bit and when I come back out, the bike is on one cylinder again There's a drain hole on the right side of the front cylinder, if you get a can of silicone spray/ wd-40 and use the straw to poke it clear and douse the plug well in wd-40.
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May 21, 2011 14:21
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Xovaan posted:So I'm converting back to the stock headlight assembly because I love the warm glow of yellow when riding at night. You should be able to buy a h4 connector for less than 5 quid in any motor factors/auto parts place. I've had to replace a lot of them over the years on ld bikes where the originals had melted/corroded http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Electrical/Headlight-Socket/_/N-25v6?filterByKeyWord=h4+socket&fromString=search
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Nov 16, 2011 14:39
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