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Jack the Smack posted:Mine was purchased in 2005 by the original owner, had it for 2 months so far, and not a single scratch. Hey this is a new sub-forum. I bought my SV march of 07. The awesome 07 sv650s model. I've put about 10k miles on it, all commuting. This year I am shipping off to basic for USAF on april 21st. I'd really like to drive up to the dragon and meet some goons early spring if it's warm enough. It'll likely be one of the last times I get to ride my bike for the following year due to a 12 month tech school. I still need to do some mods to it. I had to put 2600 bucks last year fixing it from a wreck. But while that happened I went ahead and got pazzo levers and watsen leds since I got a great deal. My goal this year is to get a new exhaust, get rid of that bulky undertail and a new windscreen that works. Right now it's my only vehicle.
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Jan 7, 2009 09:57
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Trying to find a replacement lamp for my 07 sv650s. It's one of the front highbeams. I've found the schematics and when I went to the dealer, without the bike, the parts person couldn't find either. Plus there are three lightbulbs listed. One is 4 bucks, one is 40 and the other some other price. Where should I go to find this?
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Apr 15, 2010 22:42
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Just like this? http://www.amazon.com/Sylvania-9003ST-BP-Twin-Performance/dp/B000CO93RA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1271376466&sr=8-2
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Apr 16, 2010 01:09
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Z3n posted:Yeah. Be super careful installing them, they're really sensitive to the oils on your fingers, it's super important they get out of the package and into the housing clean. I can just wear medical gloves without any powder right?
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Apr 16, 2010 12:02
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SaNChEzZ posted:So I was going to buy an SV650 with no tach.speedo unit, so I purchased one on eBay. The bike was sold from under me, so now I have an 06 gauge cluster with 22k miles on it. Many reputable places will take it back. I know new enough will take back gear and exchange it rather than lose your business. But my own questions: I'm doing my 3 (2) year service. I didn't have my bike for the last year since it was in storage, so it's basically my 2 year service. Tomorrow there won't be rain so I'll be bleeding my brakes and replacing the fluid, trying to find an air filter (which nobody carries), finishing the cleaning/ chain oiling, and replacing the engine coolant. The dealer had engine coolant for 20 bucks a quart concentrate. I think that's too expensive, but the stuff at autozone was 13 bucks. I don't know if it matters what type, so that's question one. But also autozone didn't sell DI water. I think I can just take DI water from work, but where do I find it (question 2). Where is a good place to find an air filter for 07 model. And where is the guide for using seafoam on your bike?
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Apr 21, 2010 23:03
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Z3n posted:If it freeze where you are, I'd use the normal mix of coolant, otherwise I'd run straight distilled water with water wetter. I can usually find it at big grocery stores. so the ratio of 1 qt water wetter to 1 gal of DI is recommended?
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Apr 21, 2010 23:09
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http://www.oneidasuzuki.com/store/parts-accessories/air-filter-sv650-1999-2006.html Is this the correct air filter( under 2003-2009) The detailed images look like the aftermarket, but the top image looks different.
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Apr 21, 2010 23:19
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ranathari posted:If you can't find OEM then Hi-Flo air filters are equally as good for cheaper. No point pissing away money on a K&N or BMC that'll give you no performance increase for four times the price. I'm not sure, but I can't even find out how to order the part on that site.
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Apr 22, 2010 11:38
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Got my safety inspection done, apparently there's a limit of 1 inch for the alignment. If you're more than that, you fail. I was right at one inch. Which explains the slight leaning to left without any gas (and no hands), and the leaning to right when front brakes are applied. I also need to bleed the brakes and change the the fork oil, said the front was a little too squishy. How hard is it to change fork oil?
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May 20, 2010 03:21
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Z3n posted:I...how...what. no shop manual, i'll have to find something. My alignment is off because I had alot of damage due to a crash 3 years ago, it was never fully fixed but the shop got it as close as possible.
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May 21, 2010 11:57
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So I don't know how but my clutch was feeling kind of wonky. It was loser than I remember. I had installed pazzo levers so I was able to push them rather than pull to see the wound cable is broken. Maybe 2 out of the 8 or so wires are snapped near the connection. How easy is it to replace a clutch cable line, and can I just buy the cable from any online store?
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Oct 31, 2010 01:28
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Well I changed my clutch cable, forgot to oil it before putting it on and I had to figure out the routing after I took the old one off. So I tried my best to make sure my routing was close enough. I did put some WD40 on the cable after I bought the cable lube tool. I'm going to have to watch the cable to see for any wear from improper routing. I've also cleaned out a whole load of gunk from where the clutch cable perch was. Probably a solid 1/8cup of gunk including gunk around where the chain rests near the sprocket. I'm going to try and replace my brake fluid today and bleed it. But is it okay if I just continally bleed it while topping off with new fluid while I wait for the color to change? My brakepads also look low compared to a car. At what point should I change them?
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Dec 15, 2010 18:55
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 06:34 |
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Z3n posted:Most modern cables don't need to be lubed, they're coated from the factory, so I wouldn't be too concerned about that. I did the bleeding, but my helper let the drainage tube disconnect, which put air in the line. I've tried my best to make sure there is no more air, did a test run which the brakes seemed to work well. I'm going to give a couple of days before I do the rear brake bleeding/ replacement. there appears to be 1.5 times of brake compared to the backing.
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Dec 16, 2010 03:41
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