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I want to join SV biek club, but I'm also trying to save for a place to live that's not an apartment. Cognitive dissonance, ahoy! That being said, I found this locally and I'm wondering what you guys think it's worth. NADA Guide places the bike at $3095, and then stands and a tank bag aren't a whole lot. So, say $3400, total. Is this at all reasonable/high/low? Is this also a terrible first bike since it appears to be in such nice physical condition? I have a friend who purchased an '06 SV650n with 3500mi on the odometer, back in 2011 for $3500. So, I think $3500 is my upper bound, even with those accessories and low mileage. Craigslist posted:2005 Suzuki SV 650 (Price Reduced) - $3800
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Jun 16, 2012 05:11
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Oh, absolutely. My first purchase for it would be a set of frame sliders. Is it just the season, or are Houston and Austin SV markets really inflated? People are asking nearly $4-5k for 8 and 9 year old bikes. I think the highest I'd be willing to go on this one would be $3300 after some consideration. What the hell is this: Craigslist posted:http://houston.craigslist.org/mcy/3030031205.html Edit: I'm referring to the yellow SV in my previous post when I say I'd pay at most $3300. This sticker bombed piece of crap is just something I found while browsing. MetaJew fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Jun 17, 2012 |
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Jun 16, 2012 23:09
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Ugh, I found an 06 SV650n w/ 17.5k miles that looked completely spotless with a few extras for sale locally. The seller told me he'd let it go this weekend for $2500, and I said I'd come buy it from him. Then he stopped responding to my emails, and he deleted his listing off of CL today. I guess I'll keep looking around.
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Jul 23, 2012 06:33
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Can you guys give me some advice on pricing for this 08 SV I am thinking about buying? I've emailed the owner a little. He says the bike is sprung for a 175 lbs rider, and that it's got some scratches and minor damage in the plastics and a dent in the muffler from "a few driveway tip overs". I prefer the styling of the naked bikes, but based on the suspension upgrades he's done and he being the original owner and fairly low miles it seems like it wouldn't be a bad bike. But what's a fair price to offer him? quote:2008 SV 650 SF. 8300Mi. 6 oil changes w/Motul 5100 & K&N filter
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May 30, 2014 04:48
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Can I join the club guys? 08 SV650 SF, 81xx Miles, Ohlins rear shock and Racetech gold emulators. The front brake lever is soft so I need to sort that out. And I need to buy frame sliders for it. I might just go ahead and order some SS brake lines. Is there anything I should check? Edit: Didn't realize that I posted the full res photo on my phone. Resized. MetaJew fucked around with this message at 00:26 on Jun 1, 2014 |
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May 31, 2014 20:06
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MetaJew posted:08 SV650 SF, 81xx Miles, Ohlins rear shock and Racetech gold emulators. RE: My front brake lever is mushy/spongy I need some advice before I go and drop a lot of  The PO put EBC HH pads in the front caliper not too long ago. Is it likely that the system just needs to be thoroughly bled, or is the SV's front BMC notorious for being hard to bleed or something? Since I was thinking about ordering a set of the Galfer SS front brake lines (part # for the curious: D543-2) I see that svracingparts sells some sort of banjo bolt that has a built in bleeding nipple, but it's . So I'm wondering if it's worth the money or if I should just do it the messy way, with a rag and cracking loose the bajo fitting and bleeding it that way.The other thing I'm unsure about is if I should go ahead and drop the $145 on the Motosliders no-cut frame sliders and and another $35 on swingarm sliders. I obviously don't want to drop the bike, and the plastics already have a crack and some scratches on the right hand side, but if I can avoid more damage I guess that's good. I plan to start learning how to really ride the bike at track days, and do some occasional hill country rides. So, what's the consensus on super expensive frame sliders? Edit: While we're at it, recommendations on what oil people run, and where to order oil filters would be great. I'd also like to flush the cooling system. Should I use any particular coolant, or is prestone or some equivalent good? MetaJew fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Jun 2, 2014 |
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Jun 2, 2014 02:20
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Alceste posted:Your bike is really pretty. That silver color really is the best on second gens. It's probably the next best looking SV I've seen lately besides my own Thanks for the input. My brother and I have one of those mityvacs, but we think some air might be getting into the system, or at least into the draining tub from a not very tight fit around the bleeder nipple. I'll bleed them, either way, I was just curious if bleeding at the banjo bolt was something people did, since the BMC doesn't have a bleeder nipple. I bought a ton of Rotella T6 5W-40 that I use in my Mazdaspeed3 and ran in my KTM Supermoto. I might just stick with that. I noticed that there was a rebate for 6 quarts of Mobil1 10w40 racing 4t on Amazon, but it looks like it expired on May 31st. Coydog posted:On expensive frame sliders, yes they are worth every penny. Moto sliders are what people recommend, but woodcraft makes phenomenal sliders of all kinds. They are very well designed, and definitely a cut above motosliders. I like the way the motosliders frame sliders look on my naked sv, but want woodcraft everywhere else. Since your bike has a fairing, you may want to look into the woodcraft frame sliders. less/no cutting, and a bit more effective. They would also look better I think. Which model sliders do you have? I found someone on SVRider who appears to be selling the Motoslider no cut model for a good price. Hopefully they'll respond to my PM. I didn't realize that SVRider had an annual fee to post in the for sale section, so I can't respond to their thread. 
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Jun 3, 2014 05:21
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although M. Night Skymall's is also very attractive in screaming yellow.
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Much appreciated. I'm trying to locate photos of someone using those on the full faired SV. It was my understanding that the only ones that could be run without cutting the fairing were the Motosliders or R&G's sliders. Both of which are silly expensive. I'm gonna do some more research. Thanks!
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Jun 3, 2014 07:30
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Gatla posted:T-Rex has a set of no cut sliders that I got. Man, Motosliders must have some good SEO. I never found these when I was searching for sliders on google. These look nice! And they're reasonably priced and located in Texas. I'm thinking about ordering these along with their trailer restraints and some spools. Thanks! Edit: I spoke too soon. Looks like you can't use their restraint system with just swingarm spools. You need axel block spools which no one makes for the SV. Looks like I would have to buy the Pitbull TRS.
MetaJew fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Jun 3, 2014 |
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Jun 3, 2014 22:28
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Coydog posted:Those trex sliders look good. If they protect the whole fairing as much as others and mine, you should consider getting that instead of my thing. I'm trying to keep a budget and still do a few track days so the exhaust will have to wait. I'd like to avoid being obnoxiously loud. Does the Yosh have a silencer or baffle that you installed? Also is there any benefit to a "full" exhaust since our bikes don't have cats? Do you have a Power Commander? I see a lot of fanboys praising the m4 slip on. What's the deal with that? While we're at it, can someone direct me to a good write up for the r6/GSXR/whatever throttle tube for the 08 model? MetaJew fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Jun 4, 2014 |
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Jun 4, 2014 20:36
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Coydog posted:MetaJew- Look here for the r6 throttle tube info. http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/bike/r6-throttle.php I'm on my phone so maybe I didn't see all the details, but are there better instructions on how to modify the R6 tube for a gen2? This article just seemed to say it wasn't as easy. Also, I take it you retain the stock throttle cables, right? I think I also read people saying that they adjusted something to do with when the FI kicks in and the throttle position sensor.
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Jun 6, 2014 20:15
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Nur_Neerg posted:Yeah you keep the stock cables. Really all you need to do is shave down a portion of the tabs on the new throttle. Cool! I think my brother actually had a 2006 R6 throttle tube lying around since he bought a MotionPro unit. From what I can tell, that model tube will work.
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Jun 6, 2014 23:05
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I installed my Galfer SS front brake lines today and did my best to bleed the system. I wish the BMC had a bleeder valve, but I think I did good enough. The lever feels much firmer than with the rubber lines. Hopefully, I will have some time to take it for a ride tomorrow.
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Jun 8, 2014 06:46
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MetaJew posted:I installed my Galfer SS front brake lines today and did my best to bleed the system. I wish the BMC had a bleeder valve, but I think I did good enough. The lever feels much firmer than with the rubber lines. Hopefully, I will have some time to take it for a ride tomorrow. Well I took it for a ride and the brakes are still spongy. I bled the front brakes with a mityvac and went back and forth several times. Should I try bleeding some fluid by cracking open the banjo bolt at the MC? I'm not sure how to firm them up.
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Jun 9, 2014 01:49
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Baller Witness Bro posted:For sure. This is the reason I love nicer radial brake MC's on sport bikes and such. They come with a nice convenient bleeder nipple on the MC that makes getting the brakes rock solid a no-brainer. Son of a bitch. I really wasted the evening trying to get my zen-and-the-art-of-motorcycle-maintenance on. My T-Rex Racing no-cut frame sliders arrived today, along with a set of their slider spools. Installing the slider spools was a no brainer and took less than 2 minutes to do. I then popped off the plastics to do the rest of the work. Long story short, T-Rex Racing sent me an incomplete package. Not only was I missing the long bolt that runs through the width of the engine, I'm also missing several other parts like washers, and a bolt appears to be longer than what's described in the instructions. In addition, one of the brackets looks defective, or different than what's in their photos. I just sent them an email along with photos of what I received. Hopefully they'll do me right and ship me a new package of parts. However, when I was emailing them last week to get details about their products, I would ask two or three questions and get a terse one or two sentence response back answering only one of them. So, now I'm not confident about their customer service. I had high hopes for a company that was based in Texas. I tried bleeding at the banjo bolt, followed by more bleeding at the calipers, and the lever never really firmed up to what I'm looking for. I swear it felt, at one point, like the lever was really firm, but later I went and grabbed it and it felt spongy again with more travel than I like. I put it away for tonight with a zip tie around the lever, and I'll check for leaks tomorrow morning. Edit: After taking a brake (  ) overnight, I think the brakes are good enough. I'd like them to be even firmer, but I think I've got them set up well enough. I need to take another test ride on it.Also, I attempted to set up the sag on my bike today, and got it to where I think it should be. A funny thing I noticed, however, was that it seems like the rear spring has very little pre-load on it. According to Ohlins, the spring appears to be about the right rate for my weight, and the sag seems about right, though. I'll need to do some more riding, and maybe eventually take it to the suspension guy in town. Ohlins posted:01096-21: standard spring that comes on the shock. Fits "dressed" rider weight of 155-175#. 428lbs/in MetaJew fucked around with this message at 03:25 on Jun 11, 2014 |
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Jun 10, 2014 06:18
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I had mentioned earlier that I ordered the T-Rex Racing No Cut Frame Sliders for my 08 SV650SF. They showed up on Monday, and that evening I tried to install them. Only I discovered that the package I received was missing several parts, and one of the brackets did not look right to me. They sent me one bolt that was the wrong length, left out several washers, and completely failed to send the new bar/bolt I would need that runs through the width of the engine.  (It should look like this) So, I couldn't install sliders if I wanted to. But, as I said, the bracket for the right side of the bike looked a little funny, also. The right bracket is the long narrow one. I think those cylindrical spacers are all supposed to be welded to the brackets, but one of them was just loose in the package.    I've emailed them and I think they're going to send me the missing pieces, but responses via email have been slower than I would hope for. I'm still not sure if the Motosliders frame sliders would've been a better purchase-- they are basically twice as expensive. Edit: I found this installation guide that seems to confirm my suspicion on the bracket being defective: http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139369 MetaJew fucked around with this message at 06:25 on Jun 12, 2014 |
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Jun 12, 2014 06:11
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So when I bought my bike a few weeks ago, the brakes felt like crap. Lots of flushing, and a set of front Galfer SS lines later, they felt better but still not great. Today I removed the calipers and cleaned the piston surfaces with soapy water and a tooth brush, and I cycled the pistons in and out several times. I initially found that the pistons were binding, and only one was coming out of the caliper. Now they both move nearly synchronously, and I feel pressure developing in the brake lever much sooner than I did before cleaning them. I highly recommend you guys clean your brakes. It definitely won't hurt, and it took me maybe 30-45 minutes to do. Here are some guides: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aHtxBI8NEMg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sbr7Eo4RSvo SV Specific guide (sort of): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SH_fq5xgda0
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Jun 20, 2014 07:24
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I finally got my frame sliders installed. It was pretty straight forward, however, the M10 washers that T-Rex says to put on the bolt that holds the slider to the bracket was too big to actually fit inside the slider, so I reused some sliders that were on the OEM engine mount bolts. Hope that works out alright.  I'm going to have to remove them to reinstall the plastics, but I was planning on doing an oil change and coolant flush first. And, I was also going to try to patch/seal a crack in the fairing from when the PO dropped it. Speaking of coolant flushes, do you need to remove the S headlights/cowl in order to get to the radiator cap or can it be drained and filled without removing it? Also, is there anything special about draining/filling the overflow tank? Spankydoodle posted:I'm planning on doing an oil/filter change and radiator flush this weekend on my new-to-me SV650 and I'm noticing in the service manual torque specifications for the oil drain plug and the water drain bolt. Do I need to buy a torque wrench for these? You should have a torque wrench so that you don't overtighten and strip things. But that's just my opinion.
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Jun 26, 2014 07:22
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So my brother had a spare 2006 R6 throttle tube lying around after swapping a motion pro unit. I followed the Canyon Chasers guide that the svrider.com guys reference, and since I have a 2008 S model, I trimmed down the stops on the R6 tube. After trying to reinstall the throttle tube and the housing that clamps holds it all together, I found that it was very difficult to get the two halves to squeeze together. On top of that, if I threaded the screws and tried to open and close the throttle, it was sticky and horrible. So, what gives? The stock throttle is butter smooth on my bike. I would like to have the shortened pull to WOT, but not at the expense of having my throttle feel like it could get stuck open or something. Edit: Maybe the tension on my throttle cables is too tight? The SVRider forums, despite being pretty big, seem kind of lovely for these sorts of problems. MetaJew fucked around with this message at 07:38 on Jul 1, 2014 |
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Jul 1, 2014 07:33
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ReformedNiceGuy posted:You're right, it's your throttle cables. The inner circumference the cables wrap around on the R6 throttle is bigger than stock so you need to loosen the cables a bit. You should be able to get away with adjusting them at the throttle without having to go in got the engine. You were absolutely right. I loosened up the cable that opens the throttle, and put everything together and it feels great. Now, however, the adjustment is maxed out at the throttle end. If I wanted to add any more slack or play into the throttle, I'd need to go make more adjustments at the throttle bodies. But for now it feels great. I also put on a pair of tank pads that I picked up off a guy that sells them on SVRider. These are made by a guy who goes by the username "BigHammer". I like how they sort of blend in with the tank.  On another note, has anyone with an 07+ bike tried balancing the throttles? I've read that it is a service item in the manual, but to do it on 07+ bikes you have to have some Suzuki cable or computer. On the earlier bikes, I read that you could do it the same way that you balance carbs-- with a pair of hoses and some oil and that all attached to some vacuum lines or something.
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Jul 4, 2014 02:07
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Grimes posted:My 03 SV650s has been stored for about a year and a half. I took the battery off the tender, installed it back into the bike, and tried to start it up. Nothing, no power at all. I don't have that much mechanical knowledge so I don't really know where to go from here. Could it be that the battery is toast despite being on a tender? Should I check the fuses? Did you check the kill switch? 
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Jul 15, 2014 01:38
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Where could I pick up a set of rearsets for my 08 SV650s? Should I just lurk the SvRider for sale listings until something pops up? And, will any 2nd gen rear sets fit my model year? I kind of also want an M4 or some other exhaust after hearing all the other SVs at the track day I went to yesterday. :X Lastly, do any of the rearsets support using the factor rear brake light switch, or will I be forced to buy an aftermarket switch?
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Aug 3, 2014 22:09
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Do any of you all have any experience with the Healtech GIPro DS-series gear indicator? Found a guy selling a lightly used model for $100 shipped, and I've been thinking that I'd like something like this. It seems extremely simple and just plugs into the diagnostic port. Edit: Also, after doing another track day and getting my suspension mostly set up by an on-site suspension guy, my front end doesn't have enough rebound. The previous owner put in Race Tech gold emulators and .90 springs along with 20wt Bel-Ray fork oil. The suspension guy thought that the previous owner's shop drilled out the damper rods too much and this was the cause of underdamping for that weight. He quoted me $2-300 if I provided fresh damper rods for him to fix it up. Alternatively, I can just try 30 Wt Bel-Ray fork fluid and see if that fixes the problem a little. Can I get away with this sort of hack? MetaJew fucked around with this message at 06:11 on Sep 9, 2014 |
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Sep 9, 2014 05:39
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I am also getting the itch for a slip-on and a fender eliminator. Is there any way to do this cheaply?
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Sep 12, 2014 06:10
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Z3n posted:
I guess I left that part out. The PO had about the same weight and build as me, and put in .90 springs and Bel-Ray 20 wt oil. These are the correct weight springs for me according to Race Tech's chart. The Bel-Ray oil is on the heavier side of 20wts according to my reading of this chart: http://mahonkin.com/~milktree/motorcycles/fork-oil.html. According to the invoice I have from the PO's shop, this work was all done about 3 years ago, and 6,000 miles. My reading of the SV650 suspension threads, where people discuss installing the emulators, some people claim you can overdrill the damping rod which will lead to poor rebound-- I tend to not believe this after reading through some of Race Tech's suspension bible. However, the suspension guy who helped me set it up at the track was of the opinion that you could absolutely overdrill it. He also said he raced SVs in CMRA, so who knows. He also said I could go one or two steps heavier in the rear shock spring (Ohlins SU606 46PR1C1L) depending on how much road vs. track riding I wanted to do. Anyway, my plan of action at this time is to try moving up to the Bel-Ray 30wt oil and see if that improves things. Apparently no local shops carry this weight oil, or the #8 Pit Bull pin for the front triple stand so I need to order those somewhere. While I'm at it, my brother and I are getting tired of using tiedowns when we trailer bikes to the track, so I'm thinking of also purchasing the Pit Bull TRS.
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Sep 14, 2014 22:38
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xaarman posted:Well, you have overdrilled damping rods which you say don't work, and your suspension guy is telling you they don't work, but good luck finding the problem I guess. quote:
Reading this document, I don't understand how drilling out the compression orifices could possibly effect rebound damping. And Zen and others seem to agree, unless the assumption is that the resistance of oil flow through the compression orifices is in part increasing the rebound damping.
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Sep 14, 2014 23:46
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xaarman posted:Your forks don't have the same length parts as shown in that picture. If you reread what I posted: Sorry guy, I've been on mobile all weekend and didn't see your entire response; I'm not making a personal attack on you. I was just hoping that a simple fork oil change would alleviate my problems, and I could avoid some expense and time trying to find a set of stock tubes and doing whatever else is needed. Like I said, I have no idea if the previous shop really went and added a bunch of extra holes or just widened out the existing compression damping holes.
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Sep 15, 2014 04:55
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I bought a Healtech gear position indicator off a guy on SVRider for a reasonable price and got it installed today. Installation just involved lifting the tank and removing the seat to route the wire from the dash to the diagnostic port. I haven't had a chance to take it for a ride, but this seems like it will be a nice feature to have. Here's a lovely cell phone video to show it in action (rear wheel up on a stand). You'll notice I hit a false neutral going from 6th to 5th. This probably would not have happened if I had let the clutch out briefly inbetween gears, and I wasn't fumbling with my phone. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbUHPJGvlio
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Sep 24, 2014 06:48
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ShaneB posted:What pipe is that quiet at idle? Stock? Or do you have a Yosh again? I forget. It's just a stock pipe. I'd kind of like an aftermarket, not-obnoxious exhaust, but I don't want to spend the money.
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Sep 25, 2014 03:35
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I've got a track day coming up this weekend and just flushed and bled my front brakes, again. The best they felt was right after I cleaned the pistons last time, but they're adequate for now. Nowhere near as firm as my brother's R6 as the guy above me, mentioned. Come to think of it, we have a spare set of R6 forks lying around. Any idea how much it would cost to do the swap and pick up an R6 wheel, brakes, mc, etc.? Edit: I thought I had read about someone doing this swap on svrider, but maybe I'm confused and it's not nearly as easy as a gsxr front end. MetaJew fucked around with this message at 05:27 on Jun 3, 2015 |
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Jun 3, 2015 05:22
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RazNation posted:did you switch to braided lines? I'm sure my braided lines helped, but what made an ENORMOUS difference with my brake lever feel was scrubbing the pistons with soapy water and a tooth brush. The lever went from spongy to extra firm.
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Aug 8, 2015 08:34
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I have the T-Rex Racing no cut sliders on my SV650F. Their customer service sucks, but they didn't spam Svrider like the other brand /store does and they saved my bike and plastics from a ~30 mph lowside at COTA earlier this year-- other than a broken clutch lever, worn down swingarm spool (also from T-Rex), and some scratches on the belly of my plastics. Edit: Also, significantly cheaper than Motosliders. 
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Nov 30, 2015 00:13
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I don't think I'll ever find a cowl for my gray 08.
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Jan 26, 2016 23:54
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Definitely clean the pistons with soapy water and a toothbrush.
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Jun 17, 2016 20:54
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Does anyone know off the top of their head know the volume of oil needed to change out both forks in an 04+ SV? I think a 1 liter bottle will do both, but I can't recall. I do have a fork oil height tool and notes from the last time I fooled around with it, but I just want to make sure I have enough oil on hand when I get around to it.
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Jun 30, 2016 05:44
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Quick question: will the woodcraft bar end sliders that say they fit 5/8" inner diameter bars fit the stock second gen SV650S clipons?
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Jul 28, 2016 01:03
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MetaJew posted:Quick question: will the woodcraft bar end sliders that say they fit 5/8" inner diameter bars fit the stock second gen SV650S clipons? Anyone?
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Aug 1, 2016 03:33
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M42 posted:Print that loving cowl and then we'll talk There are a bunch of non OEM cowls on eBay these days. Are those trash? MetaJew fucked around with this message at 19:52 on May 22, 2017 |
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May 22, 2017 19:48
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I don't plan on spending money on it, but how much would it reasonably cost a bodyshop to prep and color match one to a bike? It seems like it would be an easy job for someone in that field.
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May 25, 2017 01:38
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A stupid question from an indecisive person: I lowsided my bike some time back at a track day and then I never got around to riding it because I bought a house and had no time or money while I was renovating said house. So, I need at least some new bar end sliders, and maybe one day I'll buy a matching set of brake and clutch levers since I broke the clutch lever and replaced it while at the track. 1) Should I bother with brake lever guards? I'm by no means in the fast trackday group, nor do I race. But I prefer track days to riding on the street. (Also, they're a dime a dozen on ebay, and sold in pairs.) If no, then I'm just going to buy these Woodcraft ones. 2) Are folding levers useful at all? Also, many months ago, I was pouring Stabil into my fuel tank when the paper cap fell down, into the tank. As best I can tell, I'm probably going to need to remove the tank, and pull the fuel pump to get the paper out of there. Is there a better option than going this route?
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May 25, 2017 04:12
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