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Might as well ask here before I go to one of the dedicated SV forums. My 01 SVS refuses to start unless the bike's on the sidestand. If I take it off the sidestand, stand it up and clutch in, pressing the starter does nothing. If, however, I put it back on the sidestand or just sit on it and lean it over to roughly the same angle, it'll start up first time. I have no idea if the curvies have lean sensors to kill the engine when the bike's on its side but, if so, I imagine that's the culprit. Any ideas how to fix it?
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Nov 15, 2008 22:08
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 09:16 |
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I'm running Bridgestone BT-021s on my SV and they're absolutely perfect for general sports touring stuff - good in the wet and the dry, long lasting and warm up well. I've heard excellent things about Avon Storms if you do a lot of wet-weather riding and they'll probably be my next pair when the BTs need replacing.
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Nov 26, 2008 22:50
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Heated gloves are better than heated grips: the grips will warm your palms while the back of your hands freeze. Heated gloves will keep your entire hand warm.
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Nov 29, 2008 10:49
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You only need the sidestand up if you're in gear. Sometimes hitting the starter on my bike does nothing (the engine doesn't even try to turn over) until I open the choke a bit, so give that a try.
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Nov 30, 2008 17:30
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Kneel on the left side of the bike, look inside the triangle just before the vertical section of the frame. Should see a small black knob pointing outwards and backwards with a slot in the top, which is the idle adjuster. Get the engine warm then turn it off, adjust the idle speed with a screwdriver and turn it back on. Edit: couldn't find a single photo of the left hand side of an SV but it's this area of the bike on the left hand side. 
ranathari fucked around with this message at 23:23 on Nov 30, 2008 |
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Nov 30, 2008 23:17
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Don't forget that both the carb and the FI models of the SV can be restricted to 33hp if you're really not sure you can handle the full 70hp. 33 is still good for 100mph and you'll be faster off the line that any car on the road outside of proper performance ones.
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Dec 3, 2008 22:07
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For the FI models, it's just a replacement ECU you drop in. Carbs are slightly trickier - you can either put new slides in that have a small hole to reduce power or you can put some washers under the carbs to restrict the airflow. I have different slides in mine because it's a requirement of my licence in the UK, although I take great pleasure in completely ignoring that when I ride bikes in other countries (or even in the UK). The restriction ends next August but I think I might just put the originals back in when my next major service happens because there's no way the police are ever going to find out.
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Dec 3, 2008 23:14
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waptang posted:I've had the same thing happen to me one night while riding in the rain. I guess water leaks in the front spark plug hole and as a result the plug won't fire. You're definitely right about the surge in power once that second cylinder starts firing again. Mine cut out on me several times that night and every time it did, I was afraid of it kicking back in and breaking traction from the power surge. Get a Fenda Extenda to stop spray from the front wheel soaking the spark plug. When you change the plug next time, coat it heavily with grease when you put it back in to help repel water.
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Dec 5, 2008 17:21
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This is why the curvy is superior! Just unbolt it and away you go or put in a pair of blanking plates if the barely noticeable holes bother you.
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Dec 29, 2008 21:28
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civvy posted:Got my SV (2001) the other day, and am loving it so far, despite the British weather If you're new to SVs, go check out the forum at https://www.sv650.org - plenty of SV riders across the UK and there's always ride-outs and meet-ups in the regional sections. Also, well done on getting the only true SV and not falling into the trap of buying one of those ugly pointy ones.
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Feb 4, 2009 21:56
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echomadman posted:do you legally have to restrict it? if you don't then don't bother, as retarded as jack the smack is, what he said is basically true. the restriction only affects top end power, makes top speed 100 instead of 130ish. it will not makes the bike magically easier to ride. Mine's restricted thanks to the 2-year law in the UK and I can report it does make a difference to low down power too. I can't keep up with a de-restricted SV when accelerating from a standstill; I tried out my friend's bike after that and there was definitely a difference in response for a given throttle opening that was greater than you'd expect just between two bikes.
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Feb 8, 2009 19:04
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I think the law's a great idea because it does stop a lot of idiots from doing their test and jumping straight on a litrebike but it's not perfect. The worst riders I've known generally tend to do DAS, which lets them jump on a litrebike right after a 3-day course with no previous riding experience and I do think that needs to change. Having spent the last year and a half on a 33hp SV with two years on a CBR125 before that, it's taught me a lot about the process of riding so when I step up to a more powerful bike, there's less I've got to get used to. I wonder what would happen to fatality rates in the US if a similar law existed?
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Feb 8, 2009 19:28
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Invest in a Dremel and polish that horrible downpipe.
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Feb 9, 2009 11:54
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goku chewbacca posted:What stops people from derestricting right after? A giant gently caress-off learner plate that screams "I shouldn't be able to go this fast!!!"? Absolutely nothing. When I got my carbs done last summer, the mechanic asked me if I wanted him to derestrict the bike without telling anyone and, after I thought it over, I declined. If I get in a serious accident there's always the risk that the police or my insurers will inspect the carbs and, if they notice the restriction kit missing, I'm hosed. civvy posted:I'd say it should go the other way, if I'm understanding you correctly. Not many kids have access to high performance cars and can afford to insure them but it's trivial to buy a cheap bike capable of 0-60 in 2 to 3 seconds. Bikes are intrinsically dangerous in a way cars will never be, which is why laws surrounding them are more stringent.
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Feb 11, 2009 09:54
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Nice buy. I really do like the sound of a Yoshimura on the SV although nothing sounds better on a v-twin than a Remus.
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Feb 15, 2009 13:28
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Replacing the battery just involves removing a few bolts and lifting the seat off; it's a doddle. Smearing grease around the spark plug is one solution to water ingress but the long-term fix is to get a fenda extenda: the front fender isn't long enough to stop water getting into the front spark plug so extending it is all you need to do. It's also a lot easier if you're not mechanically minded - just remove the fender and pop-rivet the extenda on. Have you, you know, tried recharging the battery instead of just jump-starting the bike every time it fails?
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Feb 18, 2009 10:52
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That is disturbingly clean. I haven't cleaned the crap off my bike since September and I'm dreading what I'm going to see when I remove the chainguard.
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Mar 14, 2009 15:05
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Suzuki gearboxes are really slick and I've never had any problems with false neutrals, except when going from 1st to 2nd without enough of a push. The most jarring thing for me when I tried different bikes after learning to ride on my SV was how horrid their gearboxes were in comparison, especially BMW's.
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Apr 14, 2009 11:51
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Captain Apollo posted:Dude, I paid 2000 for my 2001 sv650S. It had a poo poo load of problems when I bought it but I didn't know it. I brought an experienced rider around and even HE didn't see all the problems it had. No, this is you buying a bike that needed a lot of work. Pretty much everything in your list of replacements should have been obvious from an inspection or a test-ride, especially tyres and chains. I've bought all my bikes second hand and I've not had to do anything beyond normal maintenance work on them because they were in decent condition despite being high milage: before I handed over the money, I went over the bikes as vigourously as I could to check anything that could potentially need work. Some of the bikes I looked at needed a couple of hundred pounds worth of work to fix faults the seller wasn't aware of, which gave me the chance to haggle on the price or walk away if I didn't want to do the work.
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May 28, 2009 12:11
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dietcokefiend posted:Is the kickstand supposed to be impossible to move in one fluid foot motion? Probably gunged up with crap. Take a toothbrush and some paraffin to the spring to get it squeaky-clean then re-lube it and it'll swing out smoothly again. Jack the Smack posted:Hell yea. HIDs piss me the gently caress off because I've never seen anyone adjust the drat things properly, so they end up blinding me when they approach from the opposite direction. Osram Nightbreakers are a massive improvement over the stock bulbs without being as anti-social as HIDs.
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May 30, 2009 23:20
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dietcokefiend posted:So I just realized I dont have a rear fender on my bike. Will this be a concern for riding in rainy weather? Bridgestone BT021s or Avon Storms are the best sport-touring tyres for the SV in my opinion. The Storms have ludicrous amounts of grip in the wet yet wear well when doing lots of upright miles. The BT021s just wear so drat slowly you can expect around 6,000 miles from a rear - I know someone who managed 10,000 miles before it finally squared off. edit: rear fender just stops gunk from getting into the shock. Provided you give it a clean every now and then, it won't matter. Rainy weather results in spray from the front wheel getting into the spark plug, which is why some owners (including me) fit a fender extender. ranathari fucked around with this message at 08:49 on Jun 1, 2009 |
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Jun 1, 2009 08:47
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Z3n posted:But it's your first year riding, I wouldn't be too concerned about any of that. Focus on yourself, not the bike, and go from there. This, a thousand times this. So many people faff about making endless mods to the handling and performance of their bikes when they're nowhere close to hitting the limits of what the stock bike can do because they're just not the riders they like to think they are. It's like the dipshits who go from a SS600 to a litrebike because they've "outgrown it" despite never having done a trackday.
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Jun 4, 2009 20:56
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What year's your SV? The 03s up have LED rears, which are a hell of a lot brighter when you're not braking compared to normal bulbs, which makes it harder to spot the transition when they do brighten.
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Jun 11, 2009 07:46
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MourningGlory posted:What sort of tire pressures are people using on second gens? I got the Michelin Pilot Powers installed and mostly scrubbed in, but I'm not really sure about what the ideal tire pressure for the street is. So for now I'm running stock pressure (33f/36r). Any suggestions? Use what the tyre manufacturer suggest for the tyre unless you have a better reason. I'm running 38f/42r with Bridgestone BT-021s.
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Jun 16, 2009 15:46
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If you phone them then they can suggest appropriate pressures for a bike if they've tested it. My garage phoned their suppliers who said Bridgestone recommend 38f/42r for SVs and I've found it works well: you get great longevity out of the rear but still get good grip in the corners, which is the whole point of a sports touring tyre. Sure, for a track day I'd let the pressures down to maximise grip but 38/42 works really well for my riding style on the road although you're quite right about the ride quality. I'm planning to replace the rear shock with one from the ZX6R at some point plus heavier oil and stiffer springs in the forks. BT-021s actually suit the SV really well although I'm debating trying Avon Storms when I have to replace the rear; it's supposed to have excellent grip in the wet.
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Jun 16, 2009 19:06
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Reg/rec
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Jun 18, 2009 22:11
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The 99-02 SV Haynes manual is full of typos, which is irritating. It confused the gently caress out of me when I read that I needed 14V bulbs for the instrument backlights until I realised they just didn't proofread the details properly. A whole bunch of the page references in the indexes are wrong too.
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Jul 8, 2009 18:52
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dietcokefiend posted:Some bulbs are sold as 14v bulbs I did not know that, although the SV manual (owners) says to use 12V. Ended up just sticking some 12V LEDs in there, which work nicely and will probably last a lot longer than bulbs.
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Jul 8, 2009 19:14
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What models of GSXR have footpegs that are interchangeable with curvy SVs? My right brake peg's sheered off and I can't find any SV ones for sale but I know some GSXR models are a straight swap.
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Jul 27, 2009 17:30
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What's this doing on the second page. Crossposting from one of the SV forums in case someone here has some ideas: I crashed my 01 SVS last week (wet road, cold tyres, going too fast and braking too hard - completely my fault) and now the rear tyre squirms when braking or slowing down. The crash cracked the exhaust, sheared the rear brake lever off and bent the right hand side bar end, as well as cracking the plastics. I've fitted a new rear brake lever, put the bar end back on with a new bolt, welded the exhaust and glued the plastics. Every time I brake, front or rear or both, I can feel the rear tyre squirming and starting to step out. It makes the bike feel very unstable and it's actually making me scared to ride it. I've checked the pressures and they're fine, the rear brake's not sticking and now I'm out of ideas. All I can think of now is maybe the swingarm bearings are shot but I'm not sure how to check that - I don't have any way of getting the rear off the ground. Someone suggested rear wheel might be out of alignment but the chain looks straight and the squirming's only happening on braking - wouldn't a misaligned wheel feel weird all the time?
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Aug 6, 2009 14:58
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http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400063404101&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT Those guys are local to me so I just went down to buy it in person.
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Aug 6, 2009 18:59
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Quality's pretty good: the folding end is robust and looks like it'll behave properly in a crash. Rear levers are fairly interchangable though, especially between different models of Suzukis - have a look for newer SV ones or from Bandits. Might be cheaper to buy an entire rear footpeg assembly and strip it for the lever.
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Aug 6, 2009 19:21
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If your pillion's hitting your back when you brake, you're not doing it properly. It's a combination of informing them you're about to brake (educating them to pick up cues) and braking more gradually than normal so the weight transfer isn't as drastic and they don't shoot forward. Also, heavy brake dive is more a combination of lovely braking and lovely front suspension. If you're grabbing a handful of front brake then you're going to rapidly transfer all the weight forward and the forks will dive. Likewise, if the front suspension isn't right for your weight or is just knackered with age then it'll compress far more than it should. You should also be using the rear brake a little when coming to a stop because it'll dig the rear tyre into the ground and reduce the load on the front suspension. Anyway, the SV's brakes are adequate - not enough for one finger stoppies but perfect for average riders. Curvy SVs benefit from braided hoses if the original rubber ones are still on: it'll restore a little more braking power. You'll have more engine braking with the SV than a Ninja too. The stock suspension is shite though, usually set up for an 8 stone Japanese featherweight, which means there's a lot of fork dive under heavy braking unless you overhaul it - just replacing the springs with stiffer ones and heavier fork oil is enough for most people. Torque is very much at the low end of the rev range - it'll pull and pull from idle to 7K. No jerkiness unless you're hamfisted with your gear changes.
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Sep 18, 2009 07:33
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I test rode one last month and it's pretty much entirely the same as the naked SV. The engine feels smoother although I can't put my finger on exactly what's different compared to the SV but the front suspension is just as poo poo. On sv650.org there's someone with a Gladius who has been fairly busy modifying it cosmetically. He's cut off most of the plastics, fitted a new exhaust and some other stuff, which makes it look pretty drat good too.
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Oct 5, 2009 22:21
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Z3n posted:SVs often get water in the front cylinder spark plug. Check to see if that's what happened. People will rig up little plug guards to avoid it. Pull the part that attaches to the plug (why can't I think of it's name) and see if there's any moisture, if there is, it was grounding out there. You can also buy fender extenders to stop spray off the front wheel getting into the front cylinder spark plug, which is supposed to be the commonest cause of the plug getting wet. That plus liberally smearing the spark plug with grease solved the problem for me.
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Oct 14, 2009 15:25
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My 01 SVS has developed a weird front end wobble at any speed. If I go over a bump, round a slow tight corner or anything like that, I can feel the bars wobbling from side to side in my hands and the bike feels unstable. The only other thing of note is that it's dead easy to turn the bars from lock to lock when the bike's not moving - way easier than it normally is (like there's no resistance) First thought's obviously the tyre but the pressure's fine and there's still enough tread left before it becomes illegal. I'm debating if the bearings need changing but I have no way to get the front wheel off the ground to test them - do the symptoms sound like knackered bearings to anyone else? Wheel weights are intact and the bike's absolutely fine in a straight line; it only becomes unstable on rough road surfaces and round bends, so I don't think it's a deformed tyre.
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Feb 13, 2010 09:22
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Z3n posted:Sounds like your head bearings have gotten loose. You'll need to remove the upper triple tree and tighten them down. In some cases, with the right tool, you can do it without removing the triple. Bearings all felt fine to me so I took it to a local garage I trust and they agreed. They're thinking fork bushes but I have no idea if that's a logical conclusion or not - they only settled on that once I mentioned I also get quite a large clunk from the front end when going over bumps at speed.
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Feb 14, 2010 00:00
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Okay, will give that a pop first before going any further. Thanks for the advice.
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Feb 14, 2010 16:26
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Ola posted:I suppose the geometry is designed so that even with a slightly tight chain it won't shear off the sprocket if your rear shock should happen to bottom out? I've never heard this happen but my brain decided to get paranoid over this. edit: duh on me, you explained this perfectly already. If you do a ton of miles, a Scottoiler or some other automatic chain oiler is worth the money. A well lubricated chain doesn't just last longer but it won't need adjusting anywhere near as often. Quite a few guys over at sv650.org report going 10,000 miles or more without needing to adjust the chain tension.
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Feb 24, 2010 22:30
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 09:16 |
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Cypher posted:City riding mostly, highways less often, no track stuff or anything like that. A good all arounder is what I'm looking for I guess. Someone mentioned Pirelli Diablos on another board. Any good? They're not popular round here but I love Bridgestone BT-021s. I've gotten about 9,000 out of a rear doing just commuting, touring and some fast road riding and it's still got plenty of life left into it. The front's squared off after only 4-5,000 miles though.
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Mar 11, 2010 08:35
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