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something_clever
Sep 25, 2006
I should have never gotten rid of my good ole warm sounding Technics stereo amp.
I think it was this SU-V7X:

The New Class A moniker was not "real" class A but som sort of emulation with the benefits of A and the power of AB...but anyway

I replaced it with a fancy Denon AVR-1800 surround receiver. It works fine for watching a dvd, but for listening to music in stereo it is dreadful. You can almost hear all the sterile ones and zeros.
I'm not even sure if the Technics amp was that great, but it sure sounded better than my current denon piece of poo poo.

If I was to go out and get a similar warm sounding amp in todays marketplace,
which amp/brand should I look for?
I'm looking for a no nonsense affordable (~$500) class AB with around 100w RMS/8ohms.



proton posted:

The sound is scratchy off and on for certain frequencies for a good 15 minutes after being turned on. Is this normal ? After that its pretty much flawless. Is that just the way these old units are ?

Sounds like some old/dry(=reduced capacitance) electrolytic capacitors in some part of the receiver(audio filter?) A electrolytic capacitors capacitance increases with temperature, so once the receiver is hot the receiver works as designed :science:...or something.

Anyway its pretty normal for old electronics.

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something_clever
Sep 25, 2006
Vintage Hifi Porn:
http://goldenageofaudio.blogspot.com/

something_clever
Sep 25, 2006
I recently bought this monster as a "fun" long term project (not my picture obviously):

Bang & Olufsen Beomaster 6000. I couldn't resist the price: 150dkk=$22.
It's not the Beomaster 8000 with the 150w@8ohm and fancy wheel controls, but 2x75W@8 ohm is pretty impressive for a B&O amp.
Fixed the volume control belt problem with a simple cleaning. Unit turns on with no problems.
Haven't even tested it thoroughly yet (ordered some DIN speaker plugs and other miscellaneous DIN connectors)
I don't care about the tuner functioning or display issues.
I've been told that the red (burgundy) caps are prone to dry out/malfunction and needs to be replaced.
And that the solders are prone to disconnection with age.
Anything else I need to know? Hint-> KozmoNaut who actually worked @ B&O.

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