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Super Aggro Crag posted:Hey guys, Unfortunately 'low budget' and 'scratching' don't really work out too well. The defacto standard tables are the venerable technics 12xx series, renowned for a their powerful direct drive and legendary toughness. Everything started with these decks and you really can't go wrong with the purchase of these new or used. There are other companies now that make a variety of turntablist decks, some are quite nice, but I would go with technics for a few reasons. 1) Ubiquitousness, If you learn to play on these, you can play on anything. If you play at a club or larger party it will be a 98% chance that the decks will be a flavour of 12xx's. 2) Parts availability, easy to work on. Most competent repair shop will have no problem fixing these up. I have replaced my lights, and pitch matched my decks from the raft of detailed instructions online. 3) Resale, you can flip them anytime for cash fairly quickly 4) Double as a fine hi-fi listening unit. 5) Bulletproof, take care of these and they will last for decades. You could look at getting one to start, and add the second as budget allows. You will also need a turntablist mixer; tons of choices here. Also will need a slipmat and decent cartridge/stylus. For scratching you will want to go with a spherical stylus as opposed to an elliptical. Ortofon, Sure, and Stanton are pretty much the big three. As far as using your decks to control digital, that is very doable and many dj's have gone this route exclusivly including some heavyweight turntablists. The two most common systems are Serato Scratch, and Stanton Final Scratch. Basically to do it right, it will cost some $$. Alternatively you could look at one of the burgeoning crop of controller devices, some offering manual scratch input in the way of controller disks, but it's hard to beat full size decks as serious turtablist inputs.
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Apr 25, 2009 03:34
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Wobbly Mike posted:Ok so I won myself a marantz 2245 from Ebay and I now need to find some speakers. I want to spend between 150 and 200 for some bookshelf's does anyone have any suggestions? Those Infinity Beta 20s constantly get great reviews, the Infinity Primus p152 and p162 are also reputed to sound good and are priced quite decently. But the Beta 20's should be better. Vanns has the Energy c-100 on for $108 down from $249. Audio Adviser has Energy c-200 on for $149 down from $319. STO sound and vision has Wharfedale 9.0 on for $124 down from $249 w/free shipping. All the wharfedales are on sale at STO it would appear. If you are in Canada, BestBuy is having an instore pricing of the Infinity Primus p252 towers, that is the tower version of the p152 I linked above. For $149/pair which is a steal. Not a bookshelf I know. Doc Spratley fucked around with this message at 09:04 on May 5, 2009 |
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May 5, 2009 08:40
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The Stygian posted:Hmmm, posted this in the AV Setup thread, probably should have gone in here. Ah well, crosspost it is. Swanky!  I notice an NAD phono amp in your rack, is that a Cambridge Audio phono pre sitting beside it and Cambridge Audio 640 below that?
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May 6, 2009 21:45
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vibrantglow posted:What are your thoughts on this unit? I'm looking to get a stage and it's right in my price range, so I'm interested. I've got one, sounds great. I picked it up to use instead of my Technics dmc mixer. I'm setting into the monumental task of making archival rips of all my vinyl.
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Aug 13, 2009 02:26
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vibrantglow posted:Does the RIAA equalization make a noticeable difference in sound quality? I don't think I have ever listened to vinyl without the RIAA eq? I have always connected to dedicated phono inputs.
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Aug 14, 2009 04:01
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iamthejeff posted:I followed some guides on how to adjust it (balance the arm so the needle floats just above the record surface, then increase the weight to the specified amount for your cartridge), and I even tried it at all places between the recommended spectrum (1.0 to 2.0 grams). Plays fine, but I have to sit on the sofa across the room and ask that nobody walks by. If it gets really bothersome, you could try suspending a shelf from the ceiling via rope/cable/chain, just make sure your mounting points are secure into a stud. Fly the lines out at an angle a bit so the table will resist swaying. Use those adjustable dual hook tensioners to get the final level perfect.
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Mar 6, 2010 01:11
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Comatoast posted:The speakers are from AV123, model # ELT525M. link You could try moving your speakers close to a wall or corner to improve your bass response, but you may find the sound to be a bit tubby or muddy when you do this. I'd highly recommend a subwoofer to augment your bass. Try running your receiver's crossover at 80 and see how you like it.
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May 11, 2010 18:22
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iamthejeff posted:More light shed on those weird Vivid loudspeakers. I got an email today that I received a new private message on canuckaudiomart.com Did you get that message from a Canuckaudiomart member? That's pretty cool to hear from the designer like that...
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Jul 14, 2010 20:21
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fireflygrave posted:
They were a house brand speaker, "value leaders" for companies like Stereo Discounters. OEMed by 'RtR Speakers'..... Synergistics Maybern Company in Cleveland, Ohio. In 1981, they moved manufacturing to the RTR complex in Canoga Park California.
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Jan 13, 2011 21:04
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The Modern Leper posted:
In the past, I have very, very carefully, bent the stylus tube slightly down to alleviate the drag issue. I have also seen a stylus snapped off doing this. iirc your table uses a spring in the tonearm for tracking force? I am wondering if you might be able to slightly lengthen or alter that spring in some way to yield slightly less force? Maybe just a little careful stretch or something?
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Mar 20, 2011 23:11
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The Modern Leper posted:Just picked up a used Technics SL1200-Mk2. Does your bookshelf system have an actual phono input? It sounds like perhaps you are plugged into a regular rca input, lacking the RIAA equalization needed for phono, and hearing a greatly reduced level?
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Mar 27, 2011 23:21
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The Modern Leper posted:EDIT: A quick Wikipedia search confirms that this is the case. Any pre-amp recommendations? Will you be planning to update your receiver at any point? Many will still come with a phono input and ground connection. I've got an outboard phono pre from Cambridge Audio that works nicely, but honestly a cheap unit such as this Behringer PP400 would sound just fine, and costs way less.
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Mar 28, 2011 00:29
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Hippie Hedgehog posted:I've suddenly realized that all of my old vinyl must be worn to hell. HH, do you clean your records in any way? I've heard some great results revitalizing those old discs with a good wet clean and vacuum dry.
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Jun 22, 2011 18:50
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Electric Bugaloo posted:Welp, it just so happens that my dad would rather have his gear in use than sitting in his attic. Nice score! RE: subwoofer with your Nak, just use an RCA Y-splitter coming out of the Pre outs there (they have jumpers connecting them in that pic). Or with subs that offer a high pass or line out, you can run your pre out to sub, sub out back to the main ins on the amp.  That pre-out function is super handy, you could also mix and match pre-amps/amps, or insert effects/processors/buffers inline. Vector Research had some nice gear, I have one of their receivers. Much of their stuff was made in the same factories as NAD and Rotel of that era. I have never had a chance to look at their tables though.
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Oct 20, 2011 21:43
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Stuntman posted:What would you guys recommend as far as cheap pre-amps go? I'm talking in the 50 dollar range, but I'm willing to go a bit higher if it's really worth it. If you can find it on Amazon, that's even better. Also, where the devil do I get a blank record to configure antiskate with? Consider the Gemini-PA7000. Decent specs, has XLR balanced pre-out along with two rca pre-outs, phono preamp, gets good reviews. I only wish it came with balanced inputs. It's over your budget, but I can't really think of anything much cheaper. Perhaps a little Behringer Xenyx mixer? The 502 there goes for under 40bux. No phono section of course with this route.
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Nov 4, 2011 05:53
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Retarded Pimp posted:Oh no, a pair of KLH Model 17's Prime candidate for an EconoWave upgrade conversion! http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=205379 
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Jan 3, 2012 01:25
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Retarded Pimp posted:Holy poo poo, check out how old caps can look inside after 30 years. Not good at all. Highly recommended! I recapped the crossovers of my 87' Klipsch Fortes and it was like lifting a blanket off the speakers. Details with pics here: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=371297
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Feb 18, 2012 22:55
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Basic Beater posted:There was really no crud on them, but I cleaned them again anyway. Unfortunately, no improvement. Try some de-oxit, will work near miracles on old switches/inputs/pots. Here is a handy guide on using it. http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=207005
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Apr 2, 2012 01:09
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Basic Beater posted:So, my technics 1200 needs its audio cables replaced, and my soldering iron/skills are poo poo so I don't trust myself to fix the problem. I've replaced the rca leads on both my 1200s, very simple. Taking the rubber bottom off is very easy, just a number of screws. Why not get a little soldering station and practise soldering a bit on some stuff? I am sure you could handle it. Great skill to have for the future. Somewhere I have the full repair schematics for the 1200 if you don't find them online, might want to replace some of the little bulbs while you are in there.
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May 26, 2012 18:57
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Geektox posted:Hmm, here are some CL listings I found: Geektox, dont' forget Canuckaudiomart.com, also might want to roll by Innovative Audio (iavscanada.com) if you are out in Surrey. My default recommendation for TT is always the Technics 1200 and variants.
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Jan 14, 2013 06:35
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A MIRACLE posted:I destroyed an 80's jbl tweeter this afternoon. replaced it with a sony 3-way. still noticing alot more woofer bounce on the destroyed channel than the working one.. have you popped the speakers open and checked out the crossovers? Might be time for a recap?
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Mar 31, 2013 07:00
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