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mattdev posted:Anyone know if they make an extension cable for both a ground and the rca cables? Yes I know it shouldn’t be longer than 6 feet due to degradation in quality, but my turntable cable is like 2 feet long. Had to re arrange and no longer is the table right next to the receiver. Buy an automotive RCA cable with a built in trigger wire for amp turn on and run a pair of female to female adaptors if your turntable has a hard wired cable like mine does. They come in 3 and 5 meters usually, the hardest part will be finding one that isn't translucent blue.
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Nov 25, 2017 13:44
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empty baggie posted:
The same. It sounds the same.
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Aug 14, 2018 13:16
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I have one of the Pro-Ject ones and it works great. Does what it says on the tin, doesn't seem to sound any better or worse than the phono stage on my SX-525 did (it's currently in restoration and I wanted to use my turntable with the AVR in my office).
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Aug 15, 2018 00:25
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 Just got my SX-535 back from my uncle, who's had it for about a year for an overhaul and resto. I don't think this thing has had working lights since sometime in 2004. Still sounds freakin amazing.
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Jan 14, 2020 10:16
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The crossover is a series of electronic components that splits the frequencies between each speaker. If one of those components is gone, it could account for the issue, or the drivers could basically be hosed or have been unplugged. Those speakers appear to have a bit of an EQ on the front which might make the wiring a little more complicated. At the minimum you're replacing both woofers and mid ranges, so if you're serious about it you might as well order some and plug them in, see if they work. They're usually spade connectors on the back, sometimes soldered. They're not super expensive speakers, I think Realistic was a budget Radio Shack brand, but they look like they'd probably go alright with some entry level Dayton audio drivers. The tweeter looks like a relatively decent unit, the enclosure looks like it's well put together, so if you're prepared to do the work you'll probably get some decent, fairly efficient speakers out of it. Don Dongington fucked around with this message at 07:46 on Feb 24, 2020 |
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Feb 24, 2020 05:59
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I know for the US PartsExpress is the place to look for dayton stuff. I can't imagine shipping to canada is that obscene from there. I'm not sure what size those speakers are, but have a look here: https://www.parts-express.com/cat/woofers/15 Edit: Someone else in here might be able to provide more info - but I'm not sure the Dayton Reference series is going to be what you want either. Apart from the higher price, "reference" drivers are often much flatter in frequency response, which may not be what you want for a set of hi fi speakers - unless you're planning on using them as studio monitors. Don Dongington fucked around with this message at 07:38 on Feb 24, 2020 |
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Feb 24, 2020 07:35
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Are you sure, because google is leading me to believe it's a 10 and a 5. edit: I'd say these are the parts you need. https://www.parts-express.com/grs-10sfpc-b-10-square-frame-paper-cone-woofer-black--290-912 is a like for like replacement for your woofer. Can't find a square frame mid but https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-ds135-8-5-designer-series-woofer-speaker--295-426 will fit. Don Dongington fucked around with this message at 07:52 on Feb 24, 2020 |
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Feb 24, 2020 07:50
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BigFactory posted:It should be obvious. Is the foam ripped and crumbling? If the surround is damaged, you refoam it. If the surround is intact and it's making weird noises, you've probably burned out the voice coil.
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Mar 9, 2020 04:36
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empty baggie posted:In the 90’s I had an old Sony car cassette deck that measured the volume in the same way but I never knew why. Because the lunatics (engineers) were running the asylum I'd guess. That's how you wind up with fantastic Hi Fi gear that makes no sense to the average consumer. It's a shame Sony lurched so far in the other direction during the Plastic Bullshit SUPA WOOFA era.
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Apr 7, 2020 01:07
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My dad is a jerk. A E S T H E T I C
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May 15, 2020 02:28
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Hell yeah, let's go REAL vintage. So I'm no stranger to wood paneling and brushed aluminium fascias. But my fiancee and I decided to go with a mid century themed wedding, and for that, we needed some props. I've always wanted to restore an old radiogram, so we started looking at the local buy and sell pages. What would you know, we found someone selling 3 of them, for $150. So I grabbed the Family Ute, and headed out. Turns out they used to restore them, but lost the drive. So I grabbed all 3, and a bonus prize - an old dj table complete with mixer and two dilapidated turntables. Here it all is crammed into my workshop  Once I started digging in, it became clear than two of the three were not going to be running any time soon. Two came with tube amps, and at some point some moron had decided to rest them out without checking for fused circuits or bad components.    That's a melted transformer. Okay cool, I guess I'll pop some modern IC amps in there for now and figure out the tube stuff down the line. One of them came with a Phillips solid state amp, with a tape loop and everything. That one actually works, I had an electrical engineer friend check it out and be couldn't find an issue with it. Nice.   So the other issue is that the turntables in 2/3 of the grams were horrible plastic things with ceramic cartridges. If they could even be made to work, they would almost definitely sound worse than a $50 aliexpress table, so why bother.  So what about that random dj booth I foolishly agreed to take? Maybe there's enough there to make at least one good table and shove it in one of the grams along with a modern hifi amp and phono stage or something. So I started poking around at those.  HRM okay, Japanese made JVC.  The other one seems to be some kind of Pioneer, except someone has removed the plinth and mounted it straight into the booth. Wack. So I measured up the pioneer and confirmed it would fit in the little radiogram, and then life got in the way and I didn't get the chance to look at any of them for a while. Meanwhile my dad starts restoring his Micro Seki MB10, and I'm doing some routing for him on a new plinth for it and he offers to take the JVC away and try to clean it up a bit. Okay sure, I'm not going to have time for it for a few weeks. Next minute:  Apparently it's one of the best tracking tables he's ever used. It came with some stanton dj cartridge on it but he popped an AT95E and an Ortofon on there and apparently it did them both much justice. I may actually swap it in as my main table. So of course, the next time I saw him I threw the other table at him. I didn't have much hope, it was missing quite a few bits, someone had taken the auto return stuff out and there was a lot of corrosion on the plate.  Oh what the gently caress, dad. So turns out it's a PL-12-AC, which was a fairly affordable by good quality table that used to look like this:  But the plinth is missing, and it's a manual table now, so never going to be original again - and so I have no real qualms about retrofitting it into the baby radiogram, with a ProJect phono stage and a little TPA3116 pcb amp. Just got to work out the mounting, but we found a heap of videos on restoring the PL-12 series decks, so I should be able to engineer something based on that. Then I just need to grab a couple AT95s to replace the DJ carts which may may not be totally hosed. I don't want to risk ruining any of my records finding out. Well, thanks for listening to my story, which in hindsight was mostly about how great my dad is (he also once gave me a working SX-535 that he's owned from new). If anyone is interested I will try to post some actual progress once I start cleaning up and installing hardware in the old grams.
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Nov 16, 2020 14:11
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Thanks man. Current plans for the 3 are as follows: For the mini stereosonic: Pioneer PL-12 slotted in place of the cheap ceramic stacker thing probably a basic MM phono stage as the speakers are good but not phenomenal (4x7 with a dual cone setup I think) TPA 3116 running off a laptop PSU, Bluetooth 5.0 and aux in from a 3.5" mounted somewhere. I'll probably desolder the pots and add a power and source select switch into a custom aluminum faceplate while I figure out what to do with the original amp and control plate Big Solid Thing: Need a trim peice to fit the SS amp back in. Hard to find any info on this one, might be. HMV but who knows. Most of these were made in Australia because shipping something this size was just unheard of. Will try to restore the existing table. It's the best out of the 3 but still mediocre. Ceramic cartridge but the phonostage on the amp is built for that. Or I'll just shove my Akai table in there. Might install an up2stream board which basically allows you to use it like a SONOS via Google cast or airplay etc. https://a.aliexpress.com/_m0Hu6zP For the PYE one I don't know. It's missing trim, the amp and table are hosed, it might just be furniture for now. Or I'll do something weird with it. Like fit dayton drivers in proper enclosures and a downward firing sub with an LDAC Bluetooth receiver with a real high end IC amp, or go the opposite way with the original speakes and a lovely small 10WPC rotel I have lying around....
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Nov 16, 2020 16:17
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wa27 posted:Is this essentially a Chromecast Audio? Few more features, but basically it's the only product I know of on the market today that can do multi room and wifi streaming at that price point. I managed to get a total of one CCA before google pulled them, and I'm fully expecting it to just stop showing up in google home one day. You can also get Bluetooth boards that support sony's LDAC lossless 24 bit Bluetooth codec now for about the same price, but 99% of the source material for Bluetooth listening is going to be compressed anyway, and having spotify connect (and not having to leave your phone on top of the thing while you're listening) is worth the difference. A bunch of these with $30 Breeze amps from Ali would be a pretty affordable way to get multi room audio, considering how much Sonos and Yamaha want for their similar solutions. No idea how reliable it would be, which is why I'm going to get one of them and run it for a few months before I consider jumping on board. Anyway this isn't vintage hifi OR turntable chat, so I'll nick off with my impure digital audio solutions until I have more radiogram content to share!
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Nov 16, 2020 23:30
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I looked into that. These things cost less than a pi, and the audio system of the pi is notoriously poo poo, so you also need to price in one of the DAC add ons, and then you're also factoring in an open source/community solution, which in my experience means constant janitoring and/or random loss of features or compatibility every update, and at that point I realised this is basically the Linux on the Desktop of home audio solutions and closed the tab.
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Nov 18, 2020 04:15
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I have a PL-12D and the plinth is terrible. It's suspended on springs and rings like a bitch. Also the wow/flutter is pretty bad even after restoring. Sweet, I haven't engineered a base for it yet to slot into the gram, so any tips on how to improve on the factory config would be appreciated. Edit: Woo amp arrived. Just gotta decide if I'm gonna desolder the pots or just bulkhead mount it and have them all squished together.. 
Don Dongington fucked around with this message at 09:23 on Nov 18, 2020 |
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Nov 18, 2020 08:58
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Someone in the SO's family passed away recently, and his partner asked if I would like an old JVC hi fi. Of course I said yes, worst case I could probably use the speakers in the shed or something. What turned up was a little more hi fi than I had expected..  There is also a tuner but I don't want to hook that up in case someone accidentally catches racism. The switches are still a bit filthy even after putting a bunch of contact cleaner through them so I'll probably end up opening the whole lot up and giving them a good clean. One of the VU lamps on the amp isn't working also so I'll have to check that out. Amp is 60W RMS into 8ohm so a fair bit more clout than my SX535. Turntable it came with looks straight out of Rocky IV:  Sounds pretty decent, but I think the belt might be a tad worn, so I've asked my turntable-restoring dad to come over during the week to put his more learned ear to it, and also he's got a speed indicator disk thingo. I now have 3 freaking tables though so it's no biggy. No speakers after all, but I've been after a proper component hifi system since I was a kid. Also came with a bunch of other random poo poo like a 6 disc dvd player, a couple of pre-HDMI AVRs and a laserdisc player of all things.
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Dec 14, 2020 12:31
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Ok Comboomer posted:This is screaming out to be mated to a pair of Wharfedales I assume you mean proper Wharfedales, not the Atlantic AT200s I ended up plugging them into, but it's a hilarious coincidence all the same.
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Dec 15, 2020 14:48
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I have a set of Pioneer 3-way floor-standers with a 10" active and 10" bass reflex woofer in them that I've had since high school and been slowly sorting out since. They need recovering, but I bought some of the same kind of adhesive stuff they came with to recondition an old Rank Arena tv the other day so I might give that a go. If I hate it I'll just get some extra veneer when I sort out one of the radiograms. I'm not going to go too hard chasing down a set of classics because every time I go see my dad and he fires up his original Sonab OD11s I'll just want to throw them in the bin anyway.
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Dec 15, 2020 16:19
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Okay so follow up. Turns out there were speakers, they just didn't fit in the car. Hrm kinda ugly and don't look that speci-  Whaaaaaaaaaaaa That's a 15" woofer. Sticker on the back says 150W RMS. I'm picking up the second one tomorrow because the father in law couldn't fit them both in the car. I'm thinking this is going to be loud, JVC you crazy. Don Dongington fucked around with this message at 13:56 on Dec 20, 2020 |
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Dec 20, 2020 13:54
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BigFactory posted:If you can figure out the combination on the two tweeters in the middle it will open up and be full of candy. They're actually bass and treble controls; so in a way, what you say is true! I've never had speakers this complex before. I think they're a 4 way design, two sets of separate mids a horn tweeter of some kind and the 15. It's odd because one of the radiograms I'm working on seems to be able to handle most of the audible frequency range with a fairly decent eq curve down to about 80hz from a single pair of 3x6" drivers (not even dual cone), and that's from 1965. These floor units are early 80s and apparently needed 3 different drivers to reproduce the same frequencies. If any nerds want to break down the history of 3 and 4 way speaker designs and the pros/cons I would be fascinated.
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Dec 21, 2020 00:52
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Crime on a Dime posted:The same. They sound like poo poo on a wood floor I can tell you that much. Gonna move them into a room with concrete flooring. They sounded much better in my workshop. They have pretty good low end thanks to the 15s, but after A/Bing them vs my fairly cheap Wharfedale Atlantic's, they definitely don't have the articulate high end. I think with a better set of tweeters they would go okay, if I were able to match the sensitivity well. They're fairly sensitive considering they're supposed to handle 150w RMS. These are apparently Kabuki speakers which Sansui and a few other japanese brands use to resell back in the late 70s and early 80s, and are considered to be average/ok, but not really worth hunting for. The more you know.
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Dec 22, 2020 02:32
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Ok Comboomer posted:Is it better to go with veneered board (MDF, cabinet ply, etc) or solid hardwood (oak or walnut) for making a new top case for a piece of gear? This would be for a Yamaha CR-2080 receiver from ‘78-79. Cost doesn’t really matter, the walnut and oak is more than cheap enough and veneer application sucks- I’m wondering if there are practical concerns. I see heat brought up, but is 3/4-1” walnut board really gonna warp from the heat of an amp? I don't see any issue using solid hardwood; the main reason manufacturers would have used laminate for cabinets would have been cost at volume; also it tends not to move around with moisture content the way real wood does, so it's more stable. If you get a peice of straight hardwood roughly the right size and trim/ polish it you're unlikely to have any problem. If you can find a piece of laminate in a suitable size that matches the rest of the cabinet or looks the way you want, it would probably be a cheaper option. Applying veneer to a bare substrate is not worth the effort when you can almost always buy a pre laminated board at the thickness you want and cut it and edge it yourself. Or go with hardwood. Also if you go the laminate way, whatever you use to cut it needs to have a finishing blade on it to avoid the veneer chipping out around the cut. I use 60 tooth blades on my table saw and 40t on my little 6.5" cordless circular saw for cutting melamine and laminated particle board. People say masking tape or sandwiching boards between two scrap boards also helps. Hardwood on the other hand should be fine with an ordinary rip blade and a bit of a sand or a light planing.
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Jan 17, 2021 12:42
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Ok Comboomer posted:you haven’t said the word “Nakamichi” yet, so you’re probably fine Shh. You wouldn't want to wake the Dragon.
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Jan 24, 2021 15:16
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My dad replaced the tweeters in his thrift store find Sonab OD-11s the other day with something closer to the originals than whatever they had before, and I have never heard such amazing imaging and stereo separation before.
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Apr 26, 2021 01:59
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An in-law was clearing out their mother's storage unit and found these, decided I might want them. Yeah ok then. Fair bit of corrosion on the knobs, and the tuner is missing a foot, but a 35W Marantz is still a 35W Marantz.
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Apr 26, 2021 09:42
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Don Dongington posted:An in-law was clearing out their mother's storage unit and found these, decided I might want them. Managed to clean this up a bit - turns out the knobs are plastic and a lot of the "corrosion" was just filth. some remains, but most of it came off. Seems to be missing a channel though. When I balance the amp all the way to the left, there's no signal on any of the 3 inputs - phono, tuner or aux - but when I rotate the volume control, I can hear the signature crackle of a 40 year old potentiometer through the left speaker - so I believe both channels are working on the power amp, and that the issue is in the input/preamp stage, somewhere between the input selector switch and the power stage. I have opened her up, and there is a fair bit of corrosion on some of the interconnects, but nothing heinous or obviously blown components. It did smell a bit when it warmed up, so I blew some dust out. I have a can of servisol contact cleaner, so I've had all the knobs off and hit the pots and switches, but have no deoxit handy. Here's an interior shot - note the funky mechanical linkage between the selector control and the actual switch - never seen that before. If anyone has any ideas where to start troubleshooting this, I'd be really appreciative   edit: oh, there's only one channel on the headphone output too, which further points to an issue on the preamp stage I guess? Don Dongington fucked around with this message at 01:28 on Apr 27, 2021 |
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Apr 27, 2021 01:23
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BigFactory posted:I would deoxit everything, but especially the input selector pot and volume pot. Maybe balance too. Just do everything. Something is crunchy and you should be able to fix it. Yeah I'd cleaned all the pots before posting! I have my powered bookshelf speakers connected to the tape out, which is passthrough direct from the input selector switch to verify the integrity of the input source. Good news is the phono stage works fine and sounds pretty good! I've been talking voltage readings at likely points that should be carrying a line level signal, with mixed results. I just tried cranking the volume to max and balancing all the way to the left, and I'm actually getting very low volume sound through that speaker, which seems to indicate a dry joint or a bad contact somewhere, rather than a total loss of continuity which is good I guess?
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Apr 27, 2021 02:38
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Not sure on the protection relay. Service manual is apparently the same as the PM310 - looking at it, they share the same PCB, the 310 seems functionally similar except for the LED power meter on the front. This explains the traces that seem to go nowhere on the board and empty pinout holes I was wondering about. It's likely there was a higher wattage version available also that shared the same board. https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/marantz/pm310.shtml I got a wooden handled paintbrush and tapped, prodded and flexed the PCB in a wide array of places, and I'm afraid nothing improved. I'm thinking component failure. At max volume, the left channel sounds about the same as the right one at about -60dB on the volume control. No audible distortion, but it's hard to tell if there's any frequency loss because at that volume it naturally sounds like a mobile phone speaker. Based on the block diagram, I'm now thinking the problem may be in the power amp section, as the headphone out comes from there via an attenuator.
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Apr 28, 2021 06:27
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I have a set of pioneers like that, but with a 10" woofer and a 10" passive reflex beneath it (it's a second speaker cone with no magnet or voice coil behind it, if you're wondering). They were passable party speakers, but those paper cone tweeters do not perform particularly well and the mids are generally average at best. I updated the 10" drivers in mine 20 years ago when I blew them up with some Radioshack woofers, and they sounded considerably better, and the tweeters about 10 years later with some cheap electronics store titanium domes with similar effect, which should give you a bit of an idea of the quality. So if you do have to replace anything, the cheapest thing from Parts Express that will fit will almost definitely be an improvement - but you're not going to make any audiophile's knickers wet, and if you don't have a back patio you might as well put them on marketplace for a case of beer or something.
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Jun 1, 2021 05:39
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NPs. So I sent that Marantz to a friend to get looked at, and it turns out it had a bad trace somewhere in the tone stack, which he bridged and it now works perfectly.  Pretty decent office setup for $free. Pairs well with the Wharfedale AT200s I had sitting around doing nothing. Edit: Now I just need to build a proper cabinet for it all.
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Jun 4, 2021 02:44
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It's a Pioneer PL-340, almost mint condition that I got with the big JVC component set I posted a few months ago. I had a JVC JL-A15 that my dad and I recently restored for that though. Here's a better shot of the the pioneer:  Here's the SX-535 that the Marantz kit is replacing, that now goes to my sister as I don't NEED another vintage amp, and the Marantz drives these Wharfedales just a little bit better:  Here's the JVC Stack in my AV Nook in the lounge, also pictured is my filthy Yamaha 5.1 and my retro gaming machine \m/:  Here's the speakers of Theseus I was talking about up-thread, driven by an old pre-HDMI AVR in the workshop:  Oh and here's the Baby Kreisler radiogram that I've been resto-modding with modern electronics:   Running a Pioneer PL-12D retrofitted in place of the old ceramic cartridge unit, into a ProJect phono pre, and then amplified with a TPA3116, which also provides bluetooth audio. I still have to tidy up and polish the control panel, swap the knobs out for some brushed aluminium fellows and actually restore the veneer on the drat thing. Sounds good though. Usually covered in less sawdust.
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Jun 4, 2021 03:26
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Oh, by the way, that old JVC JL-A15 is one of the better turntables we've come across. With a cheap AT95 cartridge, it sounds brilliant, probably the second best table we have after a Micro-Seki MB-10. I have no doubts it'd get whupped by a 1200, but I expect you could probably find one of these a lot cheaper.
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Jun 4, 2021 15:15
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I have a 6 disc DVD changer someone gave me for some reason and I think I need to be talked out of sticking it under my new (to me) Marantz as a CD source, because I presently do not have one. I mean it's silver so it fits in with the same colour scheme as the amp, tuner and TT?
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Jun 30, 2021 23:50
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I just assume that the reason that features like automatic start/stop is considered so undesirable is that the people buying up the nostalgia bait were maybe 5-10 years old when that technology peaked, and never actually owned decent gear from the era. The people that did probably held onto it. Most Millenial and younger GenX kids' formative experiences with vinyl included used, cheap hand-me-down or thrift-store stuff from either the cheaper ranges of brands like Sony and Pioneer, or cheaper brands like Akai, JVC, etc in high school or college - and the first thing to break on the cheaper tables I've had was the auto-return.
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Nov 10, 2022 11:47
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Hey folks, I've got a JVC JA-S55 integrated amp that was gifted to me a few years ago, and has mostly sat unused since. I noticed the other day when giving it a run that the output is noticeably down on one channel, and that it's actually visible on the VU meter. Seems to be the case regardless of the input etc. I have the original manual in a drawer which i recall has block diagrams and what not, and I'm a pretty decent solderer, but don't have a huge amount of experience working with amps and such. Hoping someone can point me in the right direction with regard to what I should be pointing a multimeter at? I don't think it's a dirty switch/pot/contact, as I gave them a solid clean not that long ago, and the issue doesn't seem to improve/deteriorate regardless of what I do with the controls. Thinking maybe a deteriorating cap or something?
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Feb 23, 2024 06:53
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