|
Paul Buff released a pair of updated AlienBees called DigiBees. Includes a built-in 400w equivalent daylight-balanced LED modeling light and other nice things. https://fstoppers.com/fashion/first-look-digibees-new-digital-strobes-paul-c-buff-138312 http://paulcbuff.com/alienbees.php I, for one, am excited about these.
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2016 22:48
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 8, 2024 16:57 |
|
|
I always thought ABs were much more expensive. I'm surprised they're quite affordable. Of coooourse, I don't really take the power pack into account.
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2016 23:01
|
|
|
Even including the Vagabond/Mini they're still a great, affordable system. I highly recommend them for anyone moving up from speed lights.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2016 04:40
|
|
|
I'm still firmly in speedligh territory, but they're on my radar for when/if I ever transition to a nice studio environment.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2016 11:59
|
|
|
Those look cool. Too bad they aren't available outside the US.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2016 14:29
|
|
|
I'm currently in the process of moving all my flash and trigger stuff from a combination of PocketWizard units, Bowens studio strobes, Nikon/Nissin speedlights to the Godox X1 systems. It's just amazing how it covers everything from speeldlights to studio flashes and everything just works. I now have the X1 transmitter, two TT685 speelights and an AD360II. I think I'm in strobe heaven  next on the list: two AD600B TTL units and I think I'll be set for a while.Anyone else as much in love with this system as I am? Or am I blinded by it and missing something?
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2016 18:07
|
|
|
Caryna posted:I'm currently in the process of moving all my flash and trigger stuff from a combination of PocketWizard units, Bowens studio strobes, Nikon/Nissin speedlights to the Godox X1 systems. It's just amazing how it covers everything from speeldlights to studio flashes and everything just works. I now have the X1 transmitter, two TT685 speelights and an AD360II. I think I'm in strobe heaven That sounds pretty drat cool, especially the idea of having the 600 series for portable powerful lights. I currently have the Yongnuo 622 setup, using the transceiver on camera and the 685 speedlights with built-in receivers. It looks like it's pretty comparable to the Godox speedlights, but drat it'd be nice to have the option of integrating with a more powerful monobloc if I needed the power. I dig that it can be plugged in, too -- that'd be awesome for wedding use where I transition from portable portraits to reception lighting. poo poo, now I'm considering selling my Alien Bees and Yongnuo stuff and switching over to this system.
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2016 23:31
|
|
|
Speaking of Yongnuo, I'd like to power two 560-IIIs. Is there a decent external power pack that will power these that won't break the bank? This is a budget setup and I'm just learning so I'm trying to keep costs down. I'll just run with a box full of spare batteries but that's the least appealing option. I'm this -> <- close to a DIY SLA battery solution but I don't want to hack up my flash :| some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 23:50 on Jul 22, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2016 23:41
|
|
|
Got my Digibees in the mail today. First impressions, compared to the Alienbees, given that I haven't shot with them yet: Pros: Noticeably smaller than the Alienbees The power cable is nicer -- the part that connects to the strobe is one of those 90 degree hard bends instead of letting the cord itself bend, and there's more reinforcement on the wall part The audio cue for the flash recycle is a nice upgrade At full power, the LED modeling light is super bright. At a little more than arms length away I was metering it at f2.8, iso200, 1/60 or so with the silver beauty dish + diffuser (which cuts out a good 2-3 stops compared to bare bulb) The auto dumping (complete with audio cue when ready) when changing power is nice It doesn't do that thing where it fires the strobe if you plug in a sync cable while it's on Neutral: Doesn't come with the 7" standard reflector (not that I really ever use them) Better support for the CyberCommander-style radio triggers (I use Pocketwizards, so not something I care about) The buttons on the back are super stiff. Maybe they'll loosen up over time, but on a standard light stand the light will move around a bit when changing settings due to how much pressure it takes to activate them. (I think it's a negative, but it does mean you're not very likely to accidentally change something) Cons: The fan is higher pitched and louder. It's likely that with the smaller case comes with a smaller fan, which means higher RPMs. The LED modeling light noticeably flickers at very low power output. I haven't done a lot of testing (nor do I do a lot of video work) but at high power (-1F and higher) it seems stable. Since the LED modeling light is basically flush with the plate, there's a good amount of light leak around the edge of any light modifier you attach. This is more of a fault with the way PCB speedring-style light modifiers work, though.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2016 07:11
|
|
|
Are there any settings on a Nikon D7200 that would make an aftermarket flash not work right? I bought this: Aputure Amaran Halo AHL-HN100 LED Ring Flash Light for Nikon DSLR Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W4O2IT6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dCjZxb8S2KW4Z In the hope of doing some cheap easy portraits, and when I attached it to the camera and engaged flash mode (on the ring flash), the lights just stay on. For the record, my SB-600 works fine with the same settings on the same camera. I'm figuring it's probably just defective/crappy but figured I'd ask.
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2016 22:54
|
|
|
Krakkles posted:Are there any settings on a Nikon D7200 that would make an aftermarket flash not work right? I have one of those and it's a piece of poo poo. I use it exclusively as a continuous source for off-camera fills. The mode settings are different buttons so the chances are that yours is wired up wrong. Mine fires as a flash, it's just very slow and doesn't put out much light (not enough to trigger another remote flash anyway)
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2016 23:08
|
|
|
Helen Highwater posted:I have one of those and it's a piece of poo poo. I use it exclusively as a continuous source for off-camera fills. The mode settings are different buttons so the chances are that yours is wired up wrong. Mine fires as a flash, it's just very slow and doesn't put out much light (not enough to trigger another remote flash anyway) Should I just suck it up and buy the Nikon product, or is there a middle option that's decent? My hope is primarily to take fun portraity shots, so I'm not keen on spending $400 for the Nikon one.
|
|
#
?
Sep 5, 2016 01:05
|
|
|
Krakkles posted:Ok, glad I bought it from Amazon. Returning it! None of the small ringlights are decent for portraits, not even the Nikon one. They are okay for macro shots but that's about it. Either get an actual big ring light or something like this https://amzn.com/B00S5Z8V2G for the effect you want.
|
|
#
?
Sep 5, 2016 17:40
|
|
|
Sold my Alien Bees because I wasn't using them very often, and picked up 3 Godox V860II flashes, 3 spare batteries, and an X1 transmitter. This should hopefully be fun. Also looking at the MagMod stuff lately. Might have to pick up a grid & gel sel! Still need to sell the rest of my Yongnuo stuff. The YN568II I had finally bit the dust. It survived a fall from ~15 feet onto high grass without any significant damage, a fall from ~20 feet onto the warning track of a baseball field with some battery compartment issues (shaking it or moving it too quickly made it lose connection), and then a fall from ~5-6 feet onto concrete without further damage. It finally bit the dust last weekend -- it won't turn on anymore. It's ready to retire after a hard life. Still have the YN685 and really like it, but I like the Godox system more on paper so I'm trying to sell it and my 622 triggers. Then I'll finally have 1 lighting system instead of a crazy piecemeal hodgepodge.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2016 16:40
|
|
|
I have a nikon d7000. I have never used any flash system, but I am looking at getting into some creative lighting. I have been looking at picking up 1 of these: Godox TT685/N TT685N Speedlite High-Speed Sync External TTL For Nikon Flash for now. What I don't under stand is if I will also need a Godox X1T-N 2.4G i-TTL Wireless LCD Flash Transmitter to be able to use the flash off camera. In my mind I might one day get another of the TT685n's. I just really want to experiment with flash, perhaps doing portraits and food photograhy.. things like that. Will this be a good investment?
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2016 22:57
|
|
|
If you don't want to spend the money on the transmitter straight away you usually have two choices: 1. A PC sync cable connected between the camera and the flash unit 2. Using the pop up flash on the camera to trigger the off camera flash. Works in some, but not all, circumstances. Best check these solutions both work for that particular model/brand. Also look up the Strobist blogspot site that takes you through all this kind of stuff.
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2016 23:11
|
|
|
murk posted:I have a nikon d7000. I have never used any flash system, but I am looking at getting into some creative lighting. I have been looking at picking up 1 of these: Godox TT685/N TT685N Speedlite High-Speed Sync External TTL For Nikon Flash for now. What I don't under stand is if I will also need a Godox X1T-N 2.4G i-TTL Wireless LCD Flash Transmitter to be able to use the flash off camera. In my mind I might one day get another of the TT685n's. I just really want to experiment with flash, perhaps doing portraits and food photograhy.. things like that. Will this be a good investment? I use that exact same setup and it works great for me. Yes, you need something to talk to the flash remotely, so you'll need the X1T-N unless you use EL BROMANCE's solutions. The transmitter is less than $50 and you'll love the ability to change the power of the flash directly from where you are without having to go to the flash unit and change settings. It also allows you to shoot TTL and HSS. And if you later get another flash unit you can control that one too, independently from the first one. It's a great system for the money.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2016 06:49
|
|
|
Awesome, thanks pals! Ordered both!
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2016 16:21
|
|
|
I did my first photoshoot some weeks ago that wasnt a workshop. I bought a Yongnuo tt685 and a big 5in1 reflector the day before and pretty much only bounced it from the ceiling/walls to overcome to extreme light differences and to keep my shutter speed/iso down. Since the rooms where rather small and i had no stand i could only use the reflector in a few cases but was rather pleased about the outcome. But in stairways and rooms with dark ceilings bouncing was rather futile and the pictures turned out no so great. Even with flash i sometimes had to set the iso at 800 (still have a rebel t3... not to mention i always had to move the flash around when i turned the camera around or changed position). So either i suck it up and skip those rooms or i get some better flash gear. The type of photos are portraits (all kinds full Body - head only, nudes ....) so changing aperatur is not always possible to maintain enough dof, on different indoor locations. I read some of the strobist stuff and thought about getting a 1 or 2 basic wireless flash setup as he recommends (stands umbrellas another speedlite) But.. Are speedlites enough to cover full Body shots with a modifier? Are modifiers like a stofen or Rouge flashbender of any help to full body portraits? Reading around left me to wonder if it wouldnt be better to get a portable studio strobe setup. Since i am from Europe those alienbees aint an option. and the used market is pretty dead. The nearest affordable thing i found are the godox wistros (set with stand and basic modifier around 500 bucks). Would something like an AD360 + big umbrella or soft box be something proper or just an half assed upgrade to speedlites? Since i am alone the lighter and simplier the setup is the better. any help is welcome
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2016 09:10
|
|
|
For full body shots you need big modifiers. That means softboxes rather than flashbenders for the most part. Speedlites are fine but you're going to need a couple and you'll need to put them on stands with some kind of remote triggering system. I'm in Europe and I have the following kit for full-length portraits 2x Yongnuo 560s (these have wireless triggers built in) 2x Yongnuo 603 tranceivers 2x Neewer softbox A beauty dish Some cheap Chinese 500W continuous lights from a local store A bunch of light stands also from a local store. A shoot-through umbrella None of this stuff was very expensive. It's not pro-gear and it will break in a year or so for sure but I can learn and experiment with it and replace it over time with better stuff. My next purchases will be a couple of strip boxes and then some proper studio strobes. On camera flash is going to limit you a lot - not only in the kinds of modifiers that you can use but also limits you to the kinds of photos that you can take. Flash from the front is very rarely a flattering light for any kind of glamour or portrait shoot. Edit: If you don't even have one lightstand, then at a pinch you can use a tripod as a lightstand. Most speedlights come with a plastic foot that is threaded for tripod/lightstand attachment. You can also get a very cheap adaptor that will have a screw thread on one end, a cold shoe mount on the other and a joint in the middle that will let you angle the light. Most of those will also have a clamp for an umbrella too. Helen Highwater fucked around with this message at 14:21 on Oct 11, 2016 |
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2016 11:17
|
|
|
I have a small Nissin i40 flash for on-camera/TTL use. I'm planning to buy grip equipment and a shoot-through umbrella for off-cam lighting. Will my Nissin suffice? I'm concerned because its guide number is on the low side. Should I get a Yongnuo as well?
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2016 08:06
|
|
|
I'm going to try and get back into more macro photography in the coming year and I'm looking for a better lighting solution. Right now I use the Canon MT-24EX macro twin light, but I want to move away from a flash solution to a constant lighting solution instead (each macro shot takes 300+ focus stacked pictures, and I often get a sequence where 10% or more of my shots don't get the flash firing so the entire stack is ruined, plus the twin light is annoying as hell for other reasons). Will LED light panel-style light(s) be an acceptable solution for me? What about something like this: http://www.lightandmotion.com/the-perfect-light/on-camera/photography/stella-2000 ? Can a 2000 lumen constant light even come close to the output power of a macro flash?
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2016 21:59
|
|
|
What's the minimum needed for baby's first light tent? I don't want to buy a purpose built lamps for something I'm not sure I'll enjoy yet, will 2-3 cheap desk lamps be enough to test the waters? Do I want incandescent bulbs or will it not matter? What kind of wattage is good?
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2016 16:03
|
|
|
How big do you need it to be? I bought one a few years ago from eBay for photographing warhams and it cost me €30 with two 500W lamps. You can find them complete from hundreds of sellers in sizes from 12x12x12 up. The lights were very cheap and got super hot after a few minutes though.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2016 18:51
|
|
|
xzzy posted:What's the minimum needed for baby's first light tent? I don't want to buy a purpose built lamps for something I'm not sure I'll enjoy yet, will 2-3 cheap desk lamps be enough to test the waters? Or you could just use a strobe in a medium softbox (60x80cm) and some foamboard:  That's my improvised setup for a recent cake pops product shoot.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2016 21:33
|
|
|
Sorry, should have clarified better. The light tent is already in hand, it was a gift. It's a 36 inch cube. So it's mostly a question of "what's a budget way to light this thing that will get me above idiot level?"
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2016 23:22
|
|
|
What hotshoe flashes are recommended for Nikon? I have a SB600 currently, and it takes for-loving-ever to recharge. I'd like something that cycles quicker. I like TTL, and if it didn't make a capacitor whine, that'd be swell. I probably won't spend $1k, but if I have to buy a SB-5000, I would. Should I just get a Godox or something?
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 07:22
|
|
|
People seem to really like the ttl yongnuo flashes. I have an sb700 and sb910 that are both good but haven't use a 600 so not sure how much better. Don't know if you're gonna get away from capacitor whine though. Is it particularly loud with the sb600?
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 15:33
|
|
|
The yonguos are nice, but anything powered off AA batteries is going to take longer to charge like you're currently complaining about. Can your nikon flashes take an external power pack? As far as Godox, the AD360II's are TTL, and they recycle fast off the li-ion pack (faster if you get the 2 power port -> 1 flash cable for it) Cons: I'm not sure I would actually put one on my camera hotshoe, they are big and heavy. cable or wireless + bracket is probably safer, but you might like to live dangerously. also bare bulb style instead of fresnel if you can live with that
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 15:39
|
|
|
My SB910 recharges a ton faster than other AA packs I've had in the past. Maybe 2 seconds at full power? The SB900 could melt itself from firing to much.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 17:02
|
|
|
powderific posted:People seem to really like the ttl yongnuo flashes. I have an sb700 and sb910 that are both good but haven't use a 600 so not sure how much better. Don't know if you're gonna get away from capacitor whine though. Is it particularly loud with the sb600? I moved to Yongnuos after I had two SB-600s die on me. After years of service, 2 of the 3 Yongnuos I have bought still work. The dead one was as a result of a nasty drop, as opposed to the Nikons, which died for no discernible reason. I am apparently as hard on my flashes as I am on my other gear. Unrelated flash-based question: Does anyone use Photek Softlighters? They come highly recommended but seem... difficult to affix a flash unit to.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 19:35
|
|
|
Doesn't look much worse than other speedlight softboxes. Any reason it wouldn't work with a hotshoe swivel adapter that has an umbrella clamp? Never used one myself though.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 19:41
|
|
|
thetzar posted:Unrelated flash-based question: Does anyone use Photek Softlighters? They come highly recommended but seem... difficult to affix a flash unit to. What makes you think so? I've got one of those and they are great. It's basically just another umbrella but with a front diffusion cover and a "sock" in the middle. You just pull the sock thing over the light. Looks more complicated than it really is. And if you don't use the diffuser you can get some really funky catchlights. I had some example shots but can't find them right now  I usually use mine with a Godox AD360-II unit, but normal flash brackets are just fine as well. On the other hand, handling my 7' Wescott parabolic umbrella in semi-tight spaces is a proper hard job.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 20:54
|
|
|
Caryna posted:What makes you think so? I've got one of those and they are great. It's basically just another umbrella but with a front diffusion cover and a "sock" in the middle. You just pull the sock thing over the light. Looks more complicated than it really is. And if you don't use the diffuser you can get some really funky catchlights. I had some example shots but can't find them right now I guess my concerns are that if you place the flash unit inside of the Softlighter, don't you: (A) Have a light which is very uncentered to the top of the unit and (B) not have easy access to the controls of the flash? (B) means it would be difficult to use as a manual light, only easy if you used TTL or some form of radio commander.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 23:23
|
|
|
thetzar posted:I guess my concerns are that if you place the flash unit inside of the Softlighter, don't you: (A) Have a light which is very uncentered to the top of the unit and (B) not have easy access to the controls of the flash? (B) means it would be difficult to use as a manual light, only easy if you used TTL or some form of radio commander. (A) is the same with each and every "standard" umbrella setup really, but you can solve this with my solution for your (B)s which is getting a flash bracket like this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00JQ30OTE/ Usually you'd use that to use your studio strobe modifiers with flashes, but it also has an umbrella mount. And that means you have the flash as close to the umbrella shaft as possible. Then you just put the diffuser's sock over the front and et'voila, you can still access the controls of your flash. Yeah, I spend too much time experimenting with my setups and modifiers.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2017 23:59
|
|
|
Caryna posted:(A) is the same with each and every "standard" umbrella setup really, but you can solve this with my solution for your (B)s which is getting a flash bracket like this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00JQ30OTE/ Cool, and the sock on the Softlighter is wide enough to get over that thing? Seems ideal.
|
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2017 01:14
|
|
|
powderific posted:People seem to really like the ttl yongnuo flashes. I have an sb700 and sb910 that are both good but haven't use a 600 so not sure how much better. Don't know if you're gonna get away from capacitor whine though. Is it particularly loud with the sb600? Are Godox flashes in general heavy and unmountable? The 860 has a decent recycle time and looks promising, I'm open to using offbrand if the performance is better. I'd prefer not to use a power pack, if possible, so li-ion battery packs internal look promising to me. Edit: gently caress, looked up the 360ii. Yeah, that's a big stinker. Maybe the 860 is a good compromise - looks like it's appropriate size to mount hotshoe, and claims a good (1.5s) recycle time. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 05:57 on Feb 1, 2017 |
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2017 05:50
|
|
|
Krakkles posted:Are Godox flashes in general heavy and unmountable? The 860 has a decent recycle time and looks promising, I'm open to using offbrand if the performance is better. Yeah, the 360II isn't really meant to be an on-camera flash. It's basically a small portable studio flash with a hotshoe. The V860's are what you're looking for if you're after a "standard" flash to mount on the camera.
|
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2017 07:40
|
|
|
I'm trying to get my poo poo together photography speaking and I'm working to get my home studio set up for portraits. I'm good on lights right now as I have elinchrom ranger quadra with 2 heads. The only modifiers I have is an umbrella, a 43 inch Westcott Apollo orb for speedlites, and a set of grids for the quadras. I like the Apollo but it's not made for non-speedlite strobes. The head sits inside the modifier when it should be outside. I thinking about just getting the Elinchrom Rotalux Softbox Octa (53") and adding in an elinchrom strip box. They seem like they get good reviews and they come in nice cases which is a plus. The downside is that I'll have to buy a $100 adapter and I can't seem to find any eggcrate/grids for them. Are there any third party solutions to consider? I just need something that will last and is easy to use. I'm more content at spending money up front and future proofing things.
|
|
#
?
Feb 3, 2017 22:39
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 8, 2024 16:57 |
|
|
Krakkles posted:I find it loud and annoying, my friend who shoots canon and has a 580EX says it is far louder. 860/860II runs off a li-ion pack (internal though, not a big gently caress all pack attached by wire) so yeah the recycle times are supposed to be very fast, and the pack carries as much juice as 12 AA batteries so it lasts a long time to boot
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2017 15:21
|
|