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1998 Turbodiesel Redneck Parade float. I almost got a HMMWV restoration project but I figured it's prudent to have one project truck at a time.  Was in Camp Pendleton yesterday for a toy drive, I actually had the H1 buffed and waxed and to my amazement the paint didn't flake off  Still got a shitload of work to do with it. -Needs new front shock pockets, I replaced most of the front end suspension, the shocks are a pain to get into position on the front end. -Needs new engine/trans skidplate UCP, bent the last one on a rock in Johnson Valley while chasing a race truck. It rubs against the exhaust. -Needs new door hinges -Needs 2 door lock actuators for the rear doors -Need a new air intake snorkel so I can fit my Donaldson TopSpin precleaner. -Needs new low coolant bulb for the dash -Needs a new parking brake sensor switch. -Needs new MAP Sensor / Turbo boost solenoid. My turbo craps out at 5000+ft, its one or the other, and it's and easy swap so I'll replace both. -Needs new A/C cable, I got a refrigerant leak between the compressor and the cooling stack -Needs misc missing bolts that the previous owner lost -Geared Hub/Portal axle spindle seal is leaking air [for the CTI system] on the passenger side front. -Torn ball joint boot on driver side rear. Stuff I'd like to do: -Install lockers, front and rear -Install warn industrial winch, or a hydraulic winch provided its fed by an industrial pump and not the power steering/brake system. -Install lightbar with removable HID lights front and rear. -Add GPS -Fix body damage on doors and rear fenders -New paint -Upgrade to race suspension [$$$$, waiting a while for this] Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 18:21 on Dec 14, 2008 |
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Dec 14, 2008 18:05
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StevoDaDevo posted:
 Love duramax trucks, don't like the wheels, but that's just me. We dropped one from a GMC wreck into an H1 for a Desert Racer. My friend's working on his 2nd duramax swap into another Hummer in his garage. I thought about doing it, but the 6.5 turbo diesel in my truck is fairly new and is still in the break in phase, I'm not going to pull out a working drive train even though I'd get way more power and better fuel economy with the Duramax.
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May 20, 2009 06:23
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StevoDaDevo posted:I've seen a couple of those conversions on H2s. They've all had to use some kind of body lift to clear the engine and tranny though. Is it the same way with the H1s? Yeah, 2" body lift, and unless you're Goodwin over at H-Line Motors in Kansas, you have to have a donor Duramax Truck with all the electronics. Engine swaps usually isn't a big deal, but with the duramax, the hard stuff is the computers and having everything talk to each other properly, so you usually need a complete working system from another truck to make it all work. Goodwin's shop is the only custom shop that has access to GM OEM channels so you get anything converted to diesel [they do all sorts of vehicles] they use all new GM parts with warranty. I've seen some fugly conversions,including an H2 with 2 sets of gauges installed because the guys who did the conversion got lost when it came time to hook up the guages, so they hooked up a few OEM gauges and hacked in guages from a sierra truck and tried to make it all work. Another popular conversion is dropping a BT4 or BT6 Cummins in the trucks, those are easier, since they're pretty much all mechanical if you get certain engine models, and with a little tweaking you can pull the same hp/torque as a Duramax. I was thinking of doing it, I have an engineer friend who completed 2 Duramax conversions himself on H1's. 2" body lift and custom motor mounts and you need to fabricate new exhaust pipes and transmission mounts. But if you reuse the ECM and keep the same transmission out of donor vehicle, it's not too bad to setup. His latest truck is running him about $6000 for parts and the donor engine/trans he picked up out of wrecked truck. The motor mounts were $1200 because he didn't want to mess with fabricating new ones and the Duramax Hummer ones only existed for one model year so its expensive. If you pay another shop to do it, it'll run anywhere from $15,000 to $50,000 in parts and labor. I drove a few conversions, and they're really nice, but to me, it's too expensive to pay someone else to do the work. IF I go down that road, I'll do the work myself. Oh another reason it's expensive is you can't double the torque on a stock drive train without breaking lots a bits. The OEM Duramax for the Hummer was detuned so it wouldn't rip up the 242 transfer case. Most of the guys doing conversions upgrade all the shafts and usually put in a beefier transfer case to handle all the torque. Unless you find a used Duramax combo that uses a 4L80E or a 6L80E [Which I've seen in some vans] Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 20:51 on May 20, 2009 |
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May 20, 2009 20:47
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Xeno posted:Those are independant specialist prices. Is there an insane wait list for getting your car serviced at an independent shop? The non-dealer Ferrari shops here [Los Angeles] either have 6month+ wait lists to get in and/or no new customers at all, you got to know someone to get in. The major service on some Ferrari models scare me a bit, especially ones where the engine needs to be pulled although there's a dentist down the street for me who performs the service and adjustments himself in his garage [dropping the whole rear end out]. Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 21:33 on May 5, 2010 |
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May 5, 2010 21:31
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