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loving iPhone makes typing posts a game I can't win. But yeah, that's how I understood it. I think along with that they want to change the service interval to 3000. I may have read that wrong or been given false information, but it sounds plausible to me.
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Jan 6, 2009 16:40
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I'm running Royal Purple with a 3,000 mile schedule. I've only had it in once though, and it's about to go in for the next change. The previous owner had his changes done at the dealership, so I assume they used either dino or a blend. I am an hour from the closest dealership so I have the local oil change place do it. I just don't have time to do it myself. They're a locally owned place, not a Jiffy Lube, and they do an excellent job.
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Jan 6, 2009 16:45
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By the way, what's the fix for the lovely shifter feel? I saw somewhere that it involves new gear oil, but I didn't catch if it was stock weight or something different. Anyone know?
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Jan 6, 2009 20:03
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GET EM SLUGGER posted:By the way, what's the fix for the lovely shifter feel? I saw somewhere that it involves new gear oil, but I didn't catch if it was stock weight or something different. Anyone know? I have a MS3, but I tried the fluid and it doesn't seem to do anything noticeable. I think I used MT-90 also, btw. Not sure if the 6 has the same sort of lovely rear mount since the trans and drivetrain is a bit different though, but it made shifting in my car better at least.
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Jan 6, 2009 22:13
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It does have the same lovely rear mount. It's on the list.
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Jan 6, 2009 22:28
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GET EM SLUGGER posted:By the way, what's the fix for the lovely shifter feel? I saw somewhere that it involves new gear oil, but I didn't catch if it was stock weight or something different. Anyone know? Something that people have tried is removing the weights. Since something like this is totally subjective you might want to give it a try. If you look above the transaxle you should be able to see the linkage and the weight attached to it. It's easy to remove and replace.
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Jan 6, 2009 23:59
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The actual shifting doesn't bother me so much. It's going into gear. 2nd gear always grinds just a bit.
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Jan 7, 2009 15:56
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I used the AP to make a lovely datalog because I'm a little curious about some of the things it's been telling me: Click here for the full 812x637 image. Should I really be seeing 19.9PSI? I'm running the Stage 1+SF 93 map which has a peak boost target of 17.5 +/- 1.5, making 19.0 the outside of normal. How much pressure can the car sense before it all starts looking the same? It seems to bounce off 19.9 a lot so it either halts there or the car just doesn't know what the hell is going on past that. The LTFT is a little far from the desired +/- 8 for my taste, too. Should I back up off this map and just drop down to Stage 1 or back to stock for now, or does none of this look too bad? I kind of suck at logging and still trying to get a feel for what's acceptable with this car, so I'm hoping someone else knows more. I've noticed that it still has rather inconsistent power delivery. Sometimes it's right there pulling like a rocket, and others there's nothing going on. It also stutters a little, but I'm hoping the new plugs will fix that. Frosty- fucked around with this message at 00:17 on Jan 8, 2009 |
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Jan 7, 2009 19:49
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You can do logging with the AP? I knew you could view live data but I didn't know you could do logging with it!
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Jan 7, 2009 22:19
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Frosty- posted:I've noticed that it still has rather inconsistent power delivery. Sometimes it's right there pulling like a rocket, and others there's nothing going on. It also stutters a little, but I'm hoping the new plugs will fix that.
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Jan 7, 2009 22:24
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GET EM SLUGGER posted:The actual shifting doesn't bother me so much. It's going into gear. 2nd gear always grinds just a bit. 2nd is the largest gear you shift into at speed so its the most prone to grind. Switching fluid should fix it.
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Jan 7, 2009 22:24
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Frosty- posted:I used the AP to make a lovely datalog because I'm a little curious about some of the things it's been telling me: The car looks to be knocking around peak boost and is pulling timing. This is where you will feel your loss in power. There really isnt a set amount of boost you can run on pump gas, its just that the higher you go the less timing you can run. You just need to find where your car is happy and knock free. Is this your only log? If you have more do they all show the same knock retard? Can you log your timing directly? AFR is another important one to log, can you log an aftermarket wideband o2 sensor with the AP? If I were you id get a decent wideband setup (~$200) so you can really know how your car is doing. stikfiga fucked around with this message at 01:27 on Jan 8, 2009 |
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Jan 8, 2009 01:25
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I have a couple other logs that are garbage. I was just seeing if it recorded at all when I generated those. I do recall that the boost peaks over 18PSI only occasionally, and also that the KR stays locked at 0 most of the time, so I'm guessing those two go together. I'll make a few more. I'm still getting the hang of producing charts as well. For some reason I think the stock sensor is a wideband. Does that sound right? I feel like I remember it coming up on Cobb's forum or another one.
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Jan 8, 2009 01:51
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You really don't want ANY knock retard to happen. Even if the ECU is catching it and pulling timing, you're still detonating and enough of it will make your motor go kaplooey. Have you made any changes to the wastegate signal? Is it getting the wastegate signal from the compressor housing or the intake manifold? Running it from the intake manifold will give you more boost and less drop off at high rpm, but it'll spike like a bastard.
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Jan 8, 2009 08:36
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Yeah, knock generally isn't good, but I imagine that you can have a little bit of it and get away with it not pulling timing. Just log timing and knock and find out what that threshold is (my old car was 2-3 counts I believe) and try and keep it below that...If the AP allowed you to actually tune. 
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Jan 8, 2009 23:18
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My suspicion is that the car is paranoid and pulls timing without knock. It is baseless. My computer died so while it's being repaired I won't be able to do anything with my logs. Hopefully that'll be fixed soon.
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Jan 9, 2009 05:26
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I dunno man, it doesn't pull timing until your boost goes crazy. Maybe there is a failsafe that pulls timing when boost exceeds a set amount? Also, your fuel trim seems strange... it drops off long before your boost does. You wouldn't happen to have a log that includes RPM and throttle angle would you? Best way to see if you've been detonating is to pull all the plugs and look for little black specs on them. Mild detonation will look like little bits of pepper on the insulator, serious detonation will look like somebody ate the end of your spark plug off.
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Jan 9, 2009 07:44
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 Rotella off to be tested. That is about the most black oil i've pulled out of the car by far. The amount of soot is incredible. To Frosty: Get the AFR log too if you can. From the stock ECU when yours is pulling timing, it should be around 9.
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Jan 9, 2009 16:06
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Does anyone else have this shifter problem: When its cold out (I'll say around 40 or so, maybe a little warmer?) and my car has sat over night - when I start my car up and try driving off, is it hard to get into 2nd gear? After the car warms up, it's fine so I'm thinking its just cold gear oil or whatever. Is there anyway to fix it, or just live with it, since it goes away at higher temps?
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Jan 11, 2009 17:24
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I definitely have more trouble getting it into second when it's cold. It almost always grinds a little bit, but it's worse before it warms up.
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Jan 11, 2009 18:07
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Sublime Process posted:Does anyone else have this shifter problem: When its cold out (I'll say around 40 or so, maybe a little warmer?) and my car has sat over night - when I start my car up and try driving off, is it hard to get into 2nd gear? After the car warms up, it's fine so I'm thinking its just cold gear oil or whatever. Is there anyway to fix it, or just live with it, since it goes away at higher temps? Yep. Redline mt-90 didn't solve it either.
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Jan 11, 2009 18:16
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Mine doesn't grind or whatnot, just that notchy-shift feeling turns into a "slamming it into a wall" feeling. Generally, letting the clutch out once or twice lets it slide in, but its rough. I've heard on some Mazda forums that Royal Purple makes a tranny oil? Any idea if that's right and if it helps?
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Jan 11, 2009 18:28
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XT-M5-QS That's supposed to be the best tranny oil around but I'm not entirely sure how it will work in this particular transmission. I still want to ask around on BITOG to see whether it'll eat up the 6 speed or not. I guess it's an Aisin transmission in the car since the MS6 has one.
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Jan 11, 2009 19:59
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The new Denso plugs made a huge and immediate difference. Everyone should use them, even on completely stock cars. The funky little stutter is gone. Swapping them in was illustrative, too. I very quickly determined exactly what tools I desperately need (work light, oh my god.)
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Jan 11, 2009 21:16
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Sublime Process posted:I've heard on some Mazda forums that Royal Purple makes a tranny oil? Any idea if that's right and if it helps?
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Jan 11, 2009 22:50
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They have some at my local O'Reilly and I had planned to get some, but I wasn't sure what weight. It's supposed to be 90, right?
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Jan 12, 2009 03:04
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Frosty- posted:The new Denso plugs made a huge and immediate difference. Everyone should use them, even on completely stock cars. The funky little stutter is gone. Swapping them in was illustrative, too. I very quickly determined exactly what tools I desperately need (work light, oh my god.) You gotta pull the IC to do this, right?
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Jan 12, 2009 16:39
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Yep, and it's great fun, too. Be sure to be careful when you're messing with the intercooler because it is possible to gently caress up. I hosed up twice: -The TMIC is mounted through these three little bushing-like things that normally hold together. One of mine came apart and I lost the inner metal ring, and now I have no clue where it is. -I actually managed to cross-thread and then destroy one of the bolts holding the plastic cover over the IC. My thought process at the time would blow your mind. "Hmmm, this feels like it's hosed up. Maybe if I just turn it some more..." Also, the socket liked the plug a lot more than the extension, so I got to dig that out a couple times. Ultimately, though, the plugs have made an immediately evident improvement in how the car feels.
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Jan 12, 2009 17:16
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Do you have to get a new gasket for the cold side of the IC? I thought I remembered seeing that it would require one to change the plugs.
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Jan 12, 2009 22:04
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Nah, I just yanked the thing out of it's hoses. Pop it back and tighten the clamps and that's that.
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Jan 13, 2009 01:21
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Frosty- posted:
Been there done that. Except I did it on one of my transmission -> engine bolts.
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Jan 13, 2009 02:41
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Report is back, Rotella blew Mobil1 away: Click here for the full 1224x1583 image. I forgot how many miles were on the oil, it was actually 5,500 not 4,500
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Jan 14, 2009 23:35
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Hi Fellow Mazdafolk- I have a question: should I make a retarded financial decision in order to upgrade to a Mazdaspeed3? I currently own a 2008 MZ3 in phantom blue that I really like in almost every respect save one: it's slow. I bought it new only about 4 months ago, so I've taken the included hit on its value. (lesson learned). There is a pontiac dealership just down the road from me that has a 2008 speed3 with 8700 miles on it, and they're basically begging me to buy it from them ever since I stopped by to test drive it. I would have to trade in my 3, but I'd only get about $14k or $14.5k, while I owe 316/mo for 68 more months. [buyout amount right now is 16,850 because I have been paying heavily against the principal.] The speed3 is listed at 18,600, but I'd bet they'd lower that a bit considering how aggressively they keep calling me back. Even if I did get a good deal on the speed3, i'd basically lose all the money I put into my 3 for the past 4 months. On the other hand, I've already lost that money thanks to being upside down on it. The speed3 has everything I love about my car except the color (it's red) and it's FAST and fun as poo poo to drive, as you guys know. However, I do drive a shitload for my job (I've put 7500+ miles on the car in those 4 months) so I would be slightly more concerned about longevity with the turbo car, as well as fuel prices, but I'd be enjoying all my long drives that much more. Should I be responsible and stick with what I have? Is it worth it to get this good deal on the 3 even though I would be taking a bit of an unnecessary financial hit?
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Jan 15, 2009 01:30
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Pointless Metaphor posted:Hi Fellow Mazdafolk- Sounds like you're in the exact same predicament I was in back in August of '08. I had an 04 MZ3 (5mt) and wanted to upgrade to a Speed3. What I did was the same - overpaid my MZ3 ridiculously and got it down to actual trade-in value. So in essence, you aren't losing the money you put into the car - you're just helping yourself not carry more negative equity. In my experience - I would buy the car again in a heartbeat. I even drove 450 miles to get the damned thing. Do it, and do it now. Don't look back. You won't regret it.
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Jan 15, 2009 02:54
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Well, I bit the bullet and ordered a CP-E Nano yesterday from Grip Garage. I can't wait to see how much of a difference it makes. Should be fun, though. A minor plug here, but not only were their prices great, the service is even better. If you are looking at any parts, I would highly recommend them.
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Jan 17, 2009 20:07
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I'm wanting to spring on Cobb's SRI but I keep reading about those broken battery mounts or whatever that part is it mounts to. It makes me nervous and I don't want to ruin my MAF - but I want to mod my car too. 
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Jan 18, 2009 00:47
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I think they've said everything will be okay even without the bracket, but their lack of movement on this is mind-blowing. Corksport and cp-e have alternatives, though.
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Jan 18, 2009 01:25
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What's the deal with that? I just ordered an SRI finally, do I need to break out the foam tape or duct tape or something?
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Jan 18, 2009 01:36
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It depends on your car. Supposedly Mazdaspeed6s don't suffer the problem, and I got a really haughty answer when I asked the question at mazda6club, as if only a moron would wonder. As for the Mazdaspeed3 guys, I'd say just ditch the bracket and whine at Cobb about finding a new way to secure it soon. Evidently, the engine moves like 6 inches under hard acceleration and no amount of tape or rubber of anything will keep the bracket from snapping bits off the car.
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Jan 18, 2009 01:53
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MS3 so I guess just run it without the bracket and things will be "fine". Does anyone know what the OD of the intake pipe is? I need to go hunting for a paper filter
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Jan 18, 2009 02:09
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