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Speaking of poo poo in other forums about these cars...what the hell is the deal with grounding the throttle body? Do people really think it's insufficiently electrically grounded or something?
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Apr 19, 2009 05:28
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Supposedly this boosts throttle response by cutting whatever lag there may be between your foot and the TB actually taking action. Jerks do it.
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Apr 19, 2009 05:43
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But, isn't the actuator grounded through its connection to the harness? I mean, GM uses lots of drive-by-wire setups and a lot of the cars I can think of have plastic intake manifolds, with no specific ground wire for the throttle body. I mean at least the coolant bypass I understand the point of and 'get', even if it is of limited benefit at best.
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Apr 19, 2009 05:54
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Grounding the throttle body is retarded. I just did a quick search and the first guide I found started with "Well.. This mod is to ground your throttle body and basically get rid of all the static which lies within it.". I'd like to know what static they are referring to. We use 1.5 sq mm earth to ground all our signal cables, and that's overkill. If DBW could be made smoother and less laggy by adding a couple of dollars worth of copper wire, don't you think OEMs would be doing it?
bear scrylls fucked around with this message at 12:18 on Apr 19, 2009 |
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Apr 19, 2009 06:50
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joey deere posted:If DBW could be made smoother and less laggy by adding a couple of dollars worth of copper wire, don't you think OEMs would be doing it? This is not to say that there's any improvement to be had, here. There is no lag that I've been able to detect, and these cars have a long and storied enmity with smoothness that goes far deeper than whether the throttle body is grounded extra-good. I figure people do it because it's easy and it costs them a handful of change, and they can feel good about themselves for having done it.
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Apr 19, 2009 13:24
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Frosty- posted:If [some improvement] could be made to a car at the cost of a couple dollars wouldn't manufacturers already be doing that? Not necessarily, if those dollars add up to several hundred million down the road. The biggest problem with this "mod" is that I've been searching around and I can't find anybody with a valid explanation for why this should make any difference. You may as well throw a Cyclone fuel saver on while you're at it.
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Apr 19, 2009 23:00
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Well it's exactly the same thing. It's just a completely brain-dead kind of "mod" you can do without making any effort or understanding anything, or spending any money, and it makes the kind of person who wants to avoid making effort or learning or spending feel great that they're totally customizing their whip.
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Apr 19, 2009 23:15
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Well, I got my early birthday present the other day. I'm sorry for the lack of pictures, my kid decided to play with the digital camera and he forgot where he put it. Here's a stock image though.  Click here for the full 800x441 image. Corksport's downpipe for Mazdaspeed 6. The instructions for installation were 24 pages long. That includes a bunch of images, though. The removal of the stocker took FOREVER. Getting the stock downpipe out was a real bitch, even after pulling the motor mount and rocking the engine forward. Then getting the downpipe to bolt up to the catalytic converter took forever. We eventually had to cut half of the springs off of the bolts to be able to bolt it up. Corksport says they are addressing that problem and revising the design. We finished up at about 2 am. I drive the 2 blocks from my friend's house to my house and go to sleep. The next morning I flashed to the Stage2+SF map and go for a drive. I notice a horrible banging noise when shifting or decelerating in gear. I can feel it through the seat at times. I look under the hood, and there is almost no clearance between the divorced wastegate pipe and the driveshaft tunnel. After calling Corksport, they told me to loosen the downpipe to turbo nuts, and loosen the downpipe to catalytic converter bolts, and have someone pulling down on the downpipe while I tighten everything up, to give more clearance. We did that, and noticed that to the naked eye, it didn't do poo poo to add more clearance. However, I took a drive and noticed no more banging or grinding. Derrick at Corksport was ready to ship me a new downpipe, and called me back several times to check back with me to make sure it wasn't rubbing. As I was typing this, he called for a final time. So, after that wall of text, here's the trip report. The throttle response is vastly improved. I've sort of had to relearn how to take off from a stop because it revs so much faster that I have to give it less gas. It pulls harder and goes almost to redline. The short ram intake and Accessport help that, as well. All in all, it runs quite a bit better than stock. I can't wait to get it to a track and get some times. So overall it's positive. The design could be a little better. The divorced wastegate pipe may be good for performance, but it gives very little clearance between the pipe and driveshaft tunnel.
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May 26, 2009 17:14
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just posting because im pissed off that the driver side controls on my MS6 for the passenger side front and back windows stopped working. I can use the passenger side controls though so at least its not the motors or something. Ill take it in later this week. But also wondering if people can give me their opinions on the Cobb SRI.
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May 26, 2009 17:20
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I have one for the 3, it's nice and installs well enough. You can take the vacuum line off the intake though which makes it a billion times easier to install. Unfortunately Cobb's instructions never said poo poo about that and I hate to cut up the stock accordion tube to peel it off. I also put on an Amsoil paper filter (p/n EAAU4560-EA) so in theory it'd filter near as well as the stock filter.
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May 26, 2009 17:34
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Bumping because my MS3 has an odd problem which it will see the dealer for on Tuesday - the door ajar light will randomly flicker at varying rates even when all doors are closed. Oddly it does not cause the dome light to flicker in the slightest. Sometimes the door ajar light will light up solid for a few minutes at a time, but even then if I open a door, the dome light will come on as normal and go out after I shut the door - while the indicator on the panel is still lit. It will flicker mostly over bumps so it's clearly a loose connection somewhere. The only other thing it affects is the power locks / alarm. If it thinks a door is open, it won't let me lock with the remote. If I lock the doors with the remote (alarm armed) and the connection decides to report a false door open even with the car shut off, the alarm goes off.
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Jun 14, 2009 06:54
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GET EM SLUGGER posted:Corksport's downpipe for Mazdaspeed 6. I'll take lovely iPhone pictures of myself fumbling through the installation. Captain Cannabis posted:just posting because im pissed off that the driver side controls on my MS6 for the passenger side front and back windows stopped working. I can use the passenger side controls though so at least its not the motors or something. Ill take it in later this week. quote:But also wondering if people can give me their opinions on the Cobb SRI. The noise alone is worth the fairly low price of the SRI, but it also makes a noticeable difference in the car's power delivery, especially if you use a new map with the AP. I'll get a custom tune eventually, but the OTS maps are pretty great considering that they're free. Frosty- fucked around with this message at 12:58 on Jun 16, 2009 |
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Jun 16, 2009 11:02
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Captain Cannabis posted:just posting because im pissed off that the driver side controls on my MS6 for the passenger side front and back windows stopped working. I can use the passenger side controls though so at least its not the motors or something. Ill take it in later this week. The driver side switch is rather picky on my 3, sometimes it works other times it doesn't, but when it doesn't work, all it takes is for me to pull up on the driver switch and fiddle with the passenger switch a couple times and it works. Mazda says it isn't under warranty so it's been like that for months with no change for better or worse.
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Jun 16, 2009 17:55
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Well, I put the Corksport catback on today. It took quite a while, but I had a lot of trouble with the hangers and really wasn't able to get comfortable under the car. The sound is very close to perfect, but it does tend to drone loudly off-throttle under 2000rpm, so basically when coming to a stop. I was so tired when I finished putting it on that I didn't bother doing anything but park it in the garage and eat something while staring at the internet, but I don't expect a large performance difference. Still the same old downpipe, still the same old cat, but at least the noise is impressive. My brother helped me a ton and let me use his driveway which is level, so I owe him a lot of beer or something. He noticed that it seems to leak where the first piece of the new exhaust mates up to the catalytic converter, but I'm not sure what I can do about it. Those nuts are on there tightly, and I seriously doubt that tightening them more would fix the leak anyway, since it leaks at the top and the nuts secure it on the sides. It also rattles, but I assume I can pinpoint where it does that later, and then just bend a hanger arm a small bit to move the pipes out of the way. There's a good chance it's vibrating up against the little plastic bit under the spare wheel well, so I might just trim the edge of that with a knife or something. Conclusion: I definitely need the CS downpipe and some kind of high-flow cat. Running the car with the stock exhaust removed sounded great, if loud, and just like the full turbo-back videos on YouTube, so that's definitely on my list. I'd want the rest of the pieces even if that didn't mean I could move to a stage 2 map for more zoom. Some lovely pictures:  Click here for the full 600x800 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image. The old exhaust is in fine shape, so I just boxed it up and tossed it in the garage.  Click here for the full 600x800 image. New and shiny.  Click here for the full 800x600 image. I had the car up on 2 jackstands and chocked with bricks. I'm sure I could have died somehow, but it seemed fairly solid to me.  Click here for the full 800x600 image. You can barely see the new exhaust in this shot. Corksport changed their tips from circular to oval so they'd match the stock beauty rings better.  Click here for the full 600x800 image. I ate a fudgesicle. In my hand there you can see the bolt I had to buy at the hardware store because CS mailed me 7 of the necessary 8.
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Jun 23, 2009 02:57
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May I ask about non-MZR motors in here? I really like the Protege 5's handling, looks and interior and I read somewhere else in AI that the motor is the same between the turbo (FS-DET) and nonturbo (FS-DE) Protege sedans. How hard is a turbo swap into a Protege 5? I've seen the turbo kit on the Mazdaspeed website, but it doesn't seem like that kit comes with anything else I need (manifolds, intercooler, oil lines). I haven't been able to find any prepackaged plumbing kits, but I haven't been looking very hard - I'll have to phone up my local turbo install shop and get a quote if I decide to go ahead with this, although it looks like buying a (probably high miles) used P5 and installing the turbo kit will be as much or more as a used bugeye WRX. Pretty much all the examples I can find have their (metric) odometers in the low six digits. It doesn't look like the engine block/head on the 5 and the sedan is any different. If anyone here has actually done the swap, what's the driveability like? I don't want huge monster horsepower - something like 50-60 extra horsepower and the ability to tune it would be enough to keep me very happy with the car. I was under the impression that the MSP is kind of uninspiring, but I'd prefer a small speed boost to torque-steer craziness. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 19:19 on Jun 23, 2009 |
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Jun 23, 2009 19:17
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Hey Frosty, looks good. I would advise against the CS downpipe. I really had a problem with fitment, and there's no flex pipe. It's more expensive, but I think I'd go with something like the CP-e piece. The addition of the flex pipe and cat would make it worth the extra cost, IMHO. That being said, Derrick at Corksport was nothing but helpful every time I called, and offered to send me a new downpipe at no charge. He said there was a revision that helped the downpipe bolt on easier to the catalytic converter so maybe that would have helped. I don't know. It's a moot point now anyway, the downpipe is someone else's problem just as soon as the dealership can sell it. If anyone in the Texas panhandle, or points nearby, mine is going for $16,500 or so.
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Jun 23, 2009 20:43
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Seat Safety Switch posted:How hard is a turbo swap into a Protege 5? My uncle owns one and he thinks it's fantastic. My mother owns a WRX wagon and she thinks that's fantastic. I kind of hate them both (the cars,) but that's not really relevant. GET EM SLUGGER posted:Hey Frosty, looks good. I would advise against the CS downpipe. I really had a problem with fitment, and there's no flex pipe. quote:It's more expensive, but I think I'd go with something like the CP-e piece. The addition of the flex pipe and cat would make it worth the extra cost, IMHO. The only thing I wonder about is the cats. I'm 99% certain that Corksport sold a catted TBE on their website before the redesign, and now it's not there. The point is that I know I can meet emissions requirements with a Corksport setup, but I'm not sure how since it's not a dropdown menu on a website anymore. I'll probably call them and ask. I kind of want to call them up and make them mail me that bolt that they owe me, but I'd feel kind of silly going to the trouble, and making them go to the trouble, just to get something I don't strictly need at this point, anyway. Maybe I can get an extra one when I order the DP. quote:He said there was a revision that helped the downpipe bolt on easier to the catalytic converter so maybe that would have helped. quote:It's a moot point now anyway, the downpipe is someone else's problem just as soon as the dealership can sell it.
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Jun 23, 2009 22:10
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The divorced wastegate is sexy alright, but it's the part that was contacting the driveshaft tunnel, if I'm using the right terms. The pipe was a little too long, so I had trouble bolting it up to the catalytic converter. I ended up having to cut the springs in half, and then it still barely fit. There was no play between the DP and cat whatsoever. I think that's part of why I had so much trouble with it bumping when the engine moved. It either needed more room to move at that junction, or better yet, a flex pipe. Here's the clearance issue I'm talking about with the divorced wastegate pipe.
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Jun 24, 2009 01:50
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How did you even get that picture?
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Jun 24, 2009 02:11
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I didn't have my camera, so I used my phone. A friend held a shop light while I stuck my arm down there with the phone. There's a ton of room with the aftermarket DP compared to the factory with the cat in the middle. That is SUCH a bitch to remove, by the way.
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Jun 24, 2009 02:39
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I've always thought it was kind of strange that the wastegate piping re-enters the main exhaust at this crazy angle close to 90 degrees. I've always wondered why it didn't do so more gradually, and now I can see that the steep angle also results in the whole apparatus being larger in the available space than it needs to be. Now I'm double-baffled.
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Jun 24, 2009 02:41
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Well I can't deny the results. The downpipe freed up a lot of power. But from a packaging standpoint, I think they could have done better. But, they're half the price so I guess you get what you pay for. As far as that missing bolt, I'd call Corksport. Derrick was nothing but helpful every time I called, and I called lots of times.
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Jun 24, 2009 03:49
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For the MS3, I've heard that if you have a Cobb inlet mounted with the SRI it reduced movement and, due to the silicone inlet, allows a little flex - which in turn makes it "impossible to break the bracket." Any truth or validity to this? Has anyone got an inlet and sri with no broken brackets?
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Jun 29, 2009 04:25
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That might be true, but I'm skeptical. In the cars that have broken the mounting point (they break the car; the bracket is extremely tough) the engine is moving around violently. The amount of give necessary to make that no longer an issue would have to be pretty major. If Cobb says it, believe it. If it's some hopeful speculation by forum goers, ignore. At this point, Corksport and CP-E are the guys you should be looking at. The AP is great, but Cobb struggled with the hard parts (moreso for the MS6 than MS3,) and now they've taken an indefinitely long vacation from design and production.
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Jun 29, 2009 08:01
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I'm hoping maybe you all can give me some info. I'm very interested in buying a new MS3 now that I have graduated college and I'm into the full-time career bit. I've got a couple questions regarding purchase and ownership of the MS3. First, I really dig the seats in the GT, but willing to go Sport as well, depending on loan and purchase price. What have you guys been paying, if you're willing to tell? I'm not interested in many options, I've already got a nice GPS, and I'm not worried about satellite radio, so that takes out the most expensive options. Second, between commuting to work, teaching a high school marching percussion program 3 days a week after work, and gigging 2 or 3 times a month plus rehearsals with the band, I put a lot of miles on cars. Like, after my Chrysler's transmission died, I began driving the extra family car 3.5 weeks ago, and have put almost 1900 miles or so on it. Is the MS3 a good daily driver? Am I going to eat through tires in 17,000 miles? Am I retarded for wanting a powerful turbo 4 for daily driving?
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Jun 29, 2009 16:49
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Sorry I cannot comment on the above. The MS6 has proven to be a sweet DD vehicle for me, but I don't put on quite so many miles. When I start the MS6 up when it is cold it revs up to like 2100 RPM or thereabouts for about 20 - 30 seconds then slowly calms down. Is this normal ? The vehicle feels like it "hauls rear end" quite a bit more as the engine is warming up. It warms up to half way up the temp gauge pretty quickly, within a few minutes most of the time, but before it gets there and for a while after it arrives, if you are rolling from a stop in first and keep it until 3500 RPM it just takes off. Not that that is the best thing to do with the cold motor but it certainly goes. Vehicle is stock but the dealership people I have absolutely no trust in, as I found that the coupling between the intercooler and the turbo was not properly bolted (as in the pipe clamp had slid down somewhere) causing a loss of boost and a stupid whistling honk noise. Also my battery cables were not at all tightened to the terminals. I don't know how that wasn't an issue. Anything to look at in particular or just that is how it is...
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Jun 30, 2009 03:48
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Partycat posted:When I start the MS6 up when it is cold it revs up to like 2100 RPM or thereabouts for about 20 - 30 seconds then slowly calms down. Is this normal ? quote:Vehicle is stock but the dealership people I have absolutely no trust in, as I found that the coupling between the intercooler and the turbo was not properly bolted (as in the pipe clamp had slid down somewhere) causing a loss of boost and a stupid whistling honk noise. Also my battery cables were not at all tightened to the terminals. I don't know how that wasn't an issue. Anything to look at in particular or just that is how it is... gently caress. The. Dealership. And stay away from everyone else, too.
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Jun 30, 2009 04:38
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Partycat posted:The vehicle feels like it "hauls rear end" quite a bit more as the engine is warming up. It warms up to half way up the temp gauge pretty quickly, within a few minutes most of the time, but before it gets there and for a while after it arrives, if you are rolling from a stop in first and keep it until 3500 RPM it just takes off. Not that that is the best thing to do with the cold motor but it certainly goes. It's perkier because you're using more fuel - this is what a lot of performance mods for turbo (and otherwise) cars do.
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Jun 30, 2009 05:17
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IOwnCalculus posted:Bumping because my MS3 has an odd problem Self replying for an update. Initial diagnosis pointed at the hatch latch, which was backordered. A week later, they replaced it, tested it, and determined that wasn't it; next step was replacing the BCM (or some related part, I'm not 100% clear), which had to be overnighted. This also failed. Somewhere between taking it home the second time and dropping it off at the dealer again today, it also lost the ability to open the hatch - temporarily. They did more testing and determined there's a short somewhere in the rear wiring harness, which will be two days out to get the parts in, so I'm in a Mazda5 loaner. For what it's worth, though it is short a turbo, the 5 is a fantastic little people hauler.
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Jun 30, 2009 06:53
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Yargh, this exhaust is twisting my mind. It rattles occasionally on idle and I've been trying to iron that out. Because of this I've been keeping my eye on the tips and I swear to god it's moving backwards. The tailpipes are migrating ever so slowly rearward. How is this possible? If I push as hard as I can at any point on the pipes they barely move. What magic force is doing this?! I can't understand why Corksport made the tips so long. They could have easily ended them early in the rings or even before the rings entirely and I'd not have to puzzle my way through this. Question: The gaskets that came with the system aren't reusable, are they? My inclination is to take the whole thing off put it back on to see if I can adjust everything more easily off the car, but I have the suspicion that once I've tightened these things down, I have to get new gaskets if it's going to come apart again. They're some kind of metal. Frosty- fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Jun 30, 2009 |
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Jun 30, 2009 19:09
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Seat Safety Switch posted:It's perkier because you're using more fuel - this is what a lot of performance mods for turbo (and otherwise) cars do.  . I suppose the rest of your post is correct.If anything the poster is experiencing lower IATs until the engine bay comes up to a constant operating temp.
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Jun 30, 2009 22:20
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destructo posted:I wasn't aware that running retardedly rich was an easy way to make power That was pretty stupid of me to say - obviously the ECU tweaks do a lot more than just throw more fuel at the problem. I hadn't thought about the intake temperature either. Duh. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Jun 30, 2009 |
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Jun 30, 2009 22:30
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Bit the bullet on an 07 MPS with 22000 km (13500 mi) I can't wait to pick it up, but have to. At least until thursday the 9th  It is in pristine condition, but I hope the facelift for 10MY MPS' doesn't drop the value of my new baby straight away....
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Jul 3, 2009 08:56
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Lilbeefer posted:Bit the bullet on an 07 MPS with 22000 km (13500 mi) I'm not sweating it personally; the '10 isn't any faster and doesn't add all that much (anything?) in the way of must-have gadgetry, and I much prefer the styling of the older model.
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Jul 3, 2009 12:13
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Took my car on a 200 km round trip jst to get it registered. Lovely to drive, just needs new tyres. I know nothing about tyres unfortunately, but I know I want to replace the RE050s with something better. Was looking at Falken FK-452's, any experience with these?
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Jul 9, 2009 08:34
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quote:SMOKE FROM TAIL PIPES AFTER PROLONGED IDLE PERIODS so looks like rotella is that much better as it is a ghetto fix for the smoking issue
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Jul 11, 2009 02:39
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So they're designing a better PCV system? Sweet, I wonder if they'll be doing it as a recall or if we'll have to foot the bill. I'd rather get it put on before the turbo smokes.
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Jul 11, 2009 06:09
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I'm sure it won't be recall. Free fix for those who know the magic incantation while still under warranty, notfree for everyone else.
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Jul 14, 2009 00:52
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Can you get away without accessport with an intake and a catback?
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Jul 26, 2009 01:28
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Anyone else got the Mazdaspeed CAI with the AEM Dryflow filter? I washed mine for the first time today and holy crap it must have taken six hours to dry in the AZ heat. I couldn't quite get it bone dry until I threw it in the Miata which was baking in the sun. I think next time I might buy another filter to swap on instead of waiting forever. Also I discovered that whoever put the CAI on used at least one hose clamp that was a bit too short - it failed while I was wiggling on the whole mess. They also never updated it with the AEM air straightener for the MAF. I don't have any problems but I figure if Mazda pulled the CAI and AEM updated it, I should go ahead and spend $15 to update it.
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Jul 26, 2009 02:00
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