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Einstien posted:Hey gang, two questions: Difficult to copyright fonts to that degree. For example, see this horrible thing: http://new.myfonts.com/fonts/larabie/coolvetica/ edit: You live in the US, right? The answer is there is no story, the law is generally not highly protective. You can protect computer fonts as computer software, but that won’t mean anything if you're producing hand–drawn text using a well–known font as a guide: you aren't pirating it digitally. I should have been a bit clearer — you may [very improbably] have difficulties internationally, but likely not in the US. Also, it's difficult to copyright the appearance (Lucida has this protection — compare with Palatino, which doesn’t, so you get fonts like Book Antiqua which are copies under different names). This ignores the moral side of it. You really don’t have anything to worry about, unless you're tracing off a whole font/fonts/font family, ensuring it’s a virtually exact copy, using it for all body text — I dunno, the situations where people would start getting really peeved are that far fetched I wouldn’t say you really need to consider it too much. According the summary to SIL's consultation document for UNESCO on font protection (bearing in mind this is from 2003): “If a type designer wants to ‘copy’ a font in a manner legal in the USA, he would now be required to print out every glyph at large size on a printer, then scan the image and import it into the font design program. He could then manually or automatically trace the image. This seems to be perfectly legal under current understandings of US copyright law, but may not be morally acceptable.” RobertKerans fucked around with this message at 23:57 on Jun 16, 2009 |
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Jun 16, 2009 08:53
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Tuition will help. There isn't any substitute. If you can find an art class in your area, especially life drawing, go for it. Whatever, then just make sure you keep drawing. Develop proportion and weight and texture, understand how light works. Keep drawing, and when you find yourself stuck, look at how someone else has done it, and alter how you draw from there. Draw from life, or photographs. Keep drawing. Use pencils, and if you can get a big pad of cheap paper, use charcoal as well. Keep a sketchbook, draw when you're out. Go for a coffee, go for a beer, draw some pictures. Then maybe start using colour, once you're happy with tone and shade and weight and proportion. Sketch with conté, with pastels, with pencils. You'll start to understand how the different mediums and what you're drawing on affect the end result. Keep sketching in pencil though. Maybe start painting then. Though it's not going to hurt trying paint from the very start: understanding how each medium can best give the effects you want is not going to retard development. Though after drawing it's very likely that the effects you want will change but anyway One thing that's always done as an initial exercise (for good reason) in school, college, uni, whatever, is to go to a public place, and start drawing people without looking at the paper. The first few pages always look poo poo, but you have to work very quickly, and after that first few pages, you'll start to capture movement and pose etc etc. Do this, and do it over and over again, it's really easy, it'll start to build the hand-eye coordination and teach the muscle movements that you need to produce good marks on paper, and you can fill books with it and see immediate improvement NB all of this is very, very cheap as well, if you want to avoid paying for art classes. It'll take a while, but you're going to be able to see a steady improvement in your work that should spur you on. If you've got a sketchbook and a pencil on you, you can work for a little while here and there. It's not a chore, it's something that's very easy to get into. RobertKerans fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Jul 19, 2009 |
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Jul 19, 2009 22:37
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Achmed Jones posted:I'm colorblind. Should I just give up on colored paintings that aren't stencils or aerosol? No, you'll still be able to pick out tone even if you've got monochromacy, and then you just paint what you see, or if you're not happy with that, get someone to help pick colours for a while. Or use a specific, limited palette of colours. This guy seems to do ok, although the earlier stuff he did which was far more dark was much better, so I dunno if it's a good thing he's learnt to use colour over the years edit: AtomicManiac posted:Alright this one is stupid, but it's been bugging the poo poo out of me. I want to do a 4-up layout of rectangle flyers with gutters of .5inch of all sides. I want it to put itself into this layout automatically. if you really want to; I've never even needed to look at picture package, buut Open your flyer, convert to CYMK make sure its at 300dpi+, no antialiasing, yadda yadda yadda Make it the right size Open new file with the correct final dimensions of your page>do some maths>go to select>make new guide> input the right horizontal/vertical dimensions enough times to give you a grid with four blocks and gutters between each>make sure snap to guides is on>drag your flyer into the new document> put it in one of the grid blocks, where it will click into place> duplicate x 3> drag each into it's own grid block>save You're not using indesign, so you can't easily set these options beforehand: photoshop isn't for designing pages, unless they've added some pointless features that I've missed. If I've misunderstood you, and you've got lots of different flyers that all need the same treatment, just open the actions palette where these instructions start, hit new action, record, then hit stop at the end. Open all the flyers, then go to the actions menu, hit the batch command, fill in where you want it saved, and let photoshop process away RobertKerans fucked around with this message at 02:05 on Aug 15, 2009 |
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Aug 15, 2009 01:27
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Gozinbulx posted:Would this be the place to ask about something in Photoshop? im having an awfully hard figuring out why when i select an area and clear like i always do, insetad of being a stark erased area (completley white for instnace if thats the color it clears to) its doing it all faded and bleeding into the non selected area, which is what i really dont understand. any help please would be greatly appreciated. Check your channels palette. I'm assuming when you select the area, it looks like you've selected everything? But then when you erase it leaves little half transparent bits all over. Click around the channels, trial and error until the right stuff gets cleared: at the minute you're not telling photoshop to clear everything, just a part of it. The program's not doing anything wierd. RobertKerans fucked around with this message at 11:53 on Aug 28, 2009 |
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Aug 28, 2009 11:50
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You need learn to draw very fast. Also sit next to/in view of mirrors. RobertKerans fucked around with this message at 15:10 on Nov 4, 2009 |
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Nov 4, 2009 15:02
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Make a copy of the folder and just rename them each one as (name).otf, and test to see if they install. That's assuming they are OpenType, maybe check what format they're supposed to be first. If not, get him to resend them with correctly formatted names, with the format after the period not the name of the font.
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Jan 19, 2010 15:31
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Rolled Cabbage posted:Does anyone know a printers in London, UK that will do this for me? I know this is kind of a shot in the dark, but failing that can anyone point me at somewhere to post this where people might know? quote:I used to have a very good printers that would do all kinds of crazy stuff for me, but I live about an 1 hour away from them now. You live in London, but aren't up to travelling for an hour to get somewhere? If you've mistyped the time it takes to get to your old printers, then I apologise, but
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Jan 22, 2010 21:41
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Should be able to get a copy of macromedia freehand for about £5 off ebay. Should work fine, no support though there should be a shitload of stuff online given how devoted some people are to it. Intuitive, really easy to use, and the things that made it stand out still haven't been fully incorporated into Iluustrator, just bits and pieces divided between that and flash.
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Jan 23, 2010 13:14
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The March Hare posted:
Gilbert & George/Gilbert & George ripoff, not Damien Hirst. Doesn't look like either of them, and can't see them popping up anywhere, so going to guess ripoff. Bookcase could be a Hirst maybe? RobertKerans fucked around with this message at 20:07 on Feb 8, 2010 |
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Feb 8, 2010 19:56
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Ah, was just guessing, the guy just looked young and attractive rather than bespectacled and suited. House is pretty, though I'm not sure about the all-glass walls. G&G are ok, but the actual canvases aren't very interesting isolated from G&G themselves
RobertKerans fucked around with this message at 02:22 on Feb 10, 2010 |
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Feb 10, 2010 02:16
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Jemak posted:Not a terrible idea...I've got no idea where to start looking for anyone who would laser cut for me locally though. That doesn't burn the paper at all? I'd really like to be able to find a printer that will just get it done in one easy step. I wonder if a personal die cutter wouldn't be a better option, since 2.5 x 3.5 inches are a little bigger than 63x88mm maybe I can trim the edges myself. There will be a die cutters somewhere near you: for ease, it'll be far easier than hand-trimming. And you'll get an actual good finish, and round edges. Get your cards printed up on sheets at a printers, with at least 2mm bleed, then go to the die cutters, and pay for a die at the exact size. And if you want more done later, the die cutters will keep the die, and you won't have get another one constructed. Be a little bit more expensive than if you had it done inhouse at a printers, but if you really want it done, it's easy enough to sort out
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Nov 9, 2010 10:18
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Kobayashi posted:Should I be in the business of messing with the kerning of something like Minion Pro? Yes, you should adjust the kerning for all caps headlines, in fact all capitalized text, including [especially] small caps: the kerning tables will generally make text too tight if set in all caps; reduce kerning where you feel it is appropriate, but generally you should be increasing the tracking by 5%-20%. Also, read this, it's very good [link to the version set in Minion, other options on introductory page here: http://www.nbcs.rutgers.edu/~hedrick/typography/]: http://www.nbcs.rutgers.edu/~hedrick/typography/typography.minionpro.11251475.pdf Both regarding typography for legal documents, but useful in that the aim is extremely legible documents: https://www.ca7.uscourts.gov/Rules/Painting_with_Print.pdf http://www.typographyforlawyers.com/ a computer posted:What does 'stealing sheep' mean? The original quote is supposedly "Any man who would letterspace blackletter would shag sheep." Or gently caress sheep. There's not any hidden typographic in-joke held in the stealing sheep bit, it's pretty straightforward, it literally means stealing sheep RobertKerans fucked around with this message at 12:55 on Feb 9, 2011 |
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Feb 9, 2011 10:54
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GlassEye-Boy posted:But what was done to create the hand drawn look? Photoshop watercolour filter with the darkness whapped up on the photograph. Foreground covered with several blended layers (either warped to fit the photograph, or dropped in bit by bit), of the sketchUp version (full, outlines, with shading, without shading, shadows, etc.). The flat coloured layer/s have then had one or several sketch filters applied in Photoshop, and probably another watercolour filter/s, much lighter. And then the paper texture layered over the top with multipy. S/he might have done it differently, but that would produce the same result. EDIT: The Display Template plugin for sketchUp (from http://rhin.crai.archi.fr/rld/) lets you export a series of views. Then it's a case of working out which adjustments, blend modes and filters to apply to the layers, and in which order to place them, etc etc RobertKerans fucked around with this message at 21:42 on Apr 16, 2011 |
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Apr 16, 2011 21:30
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Library of Babel.
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Nov 4, 2011 09:36
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Ecojiro Desu posted:It doesn't sound like hardware issue, it's a moiré pattern and it's natural. Blurring it slightly is a standard way of controlling it; try resampling a large version of the pattern down/applying gaussian blur, then use sharpen filters to tighten it back up if needed. It'll be a matter of trial and error, and even after that, given the pattern, it'll likely still produce moiré effects unless you blur heavily. If it's an option, if you can continue to magnify the pattern the moiré will disappear as the elements in the pattern become discrete.
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Apr 26, 2012 10:30
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triplexpac posted:Haha fair enough! I had a feeling that might be the case. Thanks. If you're really set on using a tablet to draw a brush script, try Livebrush (the full version's only $10, which is insane value), then export the paths to Illustrator. Otherwise build brushes in Illustrator. Don't use PS for lettering, ever ever ever.
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Sep 9, 2012 17:33
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shadysight posted:I've generally not enjoyed / avoided working in color, but I'm having the feeling that I should give it more of a try, since not liking something and not being good at it seem to go hand in hand in art. I was curious if anyone had suggestions of where to start. I usually work in ink at this point, either with pens or with brushes, so I was thinking water colors might not be a bad idea. Watercolour is a massive pain in the arse; getting very good quality results is hard, and it's a little dispiriting once you get past the basics. To be honest, I'd look at something like acrylic, something more solid and physical. It'll depend entirely on what feel you want: I use pen/brush and ink a a lot, and tried to go to watercolour, and the main issue I had with it was an almost complete loss of the control I was used to. With acrylic and oil, I found it was a lot easier to translate the imagery I had in my head beforehand to the canvas, especially in terms of the highly structured imagery I was creating. I'd also look at using conté to sketch; one thing I found helpful was using an extremely limited set of conté colours (say, just sanguine shades), working on coloured paper and building sketches up that way.
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Apr 24, 2013 13:58
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Detective Thompson posted:Another manuscript question. Should I be underlining things I want italicized, or just go ahead and italicize? I heard underlining was the way to do it at one point, but I don't know if that's changed or not. When you're proofreading, it's single underline for italics. And double for small caps, triple for all uppercase, single zig-zag line for bold. But that's to be done by hand on the manuscript, so you'd be fine just putting the relevant words in italics to start off with. Doing any typographic work is a distraction though, better to just write plaintext and get the red pen out afterwards.
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May 27, 2013 09:48
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vas0line posted:I'm about to take a job for a client formatting a Kindle E-Book. Never done this before, but I'm a loving HTML wizard. With .AZW files, it is basically just gimped XHTML & CSS you have access to - allowed tags and attributes are here (PDF). You need to make sure you fill in all the metadata in an .opf file as well - so as well as title etc., you'll link in CSS etc. Note that if you know it's going to be exclusively for newer readers (Fire), you've potentially got .KF8 files instead of .AZW, with HTML5 and CSS3 (list here). Bear in mind that as little formatting as possible is a good thing, I found that leaving most things to the device itself === happier readers. Easiest thing is to use a template: I used this for the last batch I did (and it was great), but it's likely overkill, and you'll need to work off the terminal, which may or may not be something you want to do. this is also good, much simpler, just basic structure, with an.opf file set up + your basic basic CSS file.
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Sep 3, 2013 17:13
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For business side/building it into a job, this is very good: How to be an Illustrator. Some technical info as well. For more specifics re expected specs, you need to [surprisingly] be more specific. On the technique side, again you'll get better recommendations if you're specific about what you want to improve. Any good book on art techniques is entirely applicable to drawing using a tablet. Just in general (for free), as good as anything you could possibly buy: - for natural forms (landscape, flora etc), all 5 volumes of Ruskin's Modern Painters are better than good, 4 are on Gutenberg, the other one was digitized by a university, and is floating round in various forms. - for commercial figure illustration, some goon put up all of the Andrew Loomis books, they're great. - http://www.conceptart.org/forums/showthread.php?t=94571
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Sep 6, 2013 09:14
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