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Seven Hats posted:I'm trying to scan a bundle of drawings and paintings that are slightly larger than 8.5x11. I can get an 11" by 14" drawing scanned at Kinko's for about $1.50. I live in New Mexico, I imagine it would be a little bit more expensive in LA, but is that what you consider too much? How many drawings are you needing to scan?
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Jan 14, 2009 04:45
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Meowf posted:I just launched a blog with a custom Wordpress theme I created from scratch. A couple people have commented that they like the boldness of my post titles, but they could still look better. Can anyone suggest something that would make them look better (or confirm that they're okay)? Website: http://www.keetee.com/ It's a nice look, but that shade of read is really tough on the eyes. At least, my eyes. Straight ff0000 red might be a bit much, maybe dial it back a bit so you still keep that crisp look but also don't hurt my eyes. Also, maybe increase the padding a bit on the headlines, so the text doesn't bump up quite so close to the edges of the red. It looks interesting, I went ahead and bookmarked it.
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Jan 26, 2009 23:52
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miseerin posted:I'm making a teapot in my sculpture class. miseerin posted:Another question about my project: It's been a while since I worked with clay, but I was under the general impression that any time two pieces of clay joined together, it was best to slip and score it, just to make sure no air bubbles got in there. I don't know how big your project is, but when I was working on one of my larger sculptures in school a few years ago, I made the base, and then let it dry out for a little while before building on any more structures. Not long enough to make it brittle, but just an hour or so so you can still stick clay to it, but it's stronger than fully wet clay. Also, can't you ask your teacher about this stuff too?
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Mar 1, 2009 05:02
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stizu posted:InDesign I want to view my documents in high quality mode all of the time every single time, Is there a preferences page that I am missing? yes. If you have CS4 or CS3, here is the preferences pane you go to:  Those are the only 2 versions I have on this computer, but I imagine InDesign 2, CS, and CS2 all have similar panes. Hope this helps!
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Mar 20, 2009 20:15
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vs Dinosaurs posted:Is there a way that I can make the pentool icon change/smaller when using photoshop? It is so huge, and distracting/a nuisance. preferences > cursors > precise That's what you want. Caps Lock switches them between standard and precise, but I hate using it because then when I go to type something I'm suddenly yelling. I think the pen tool falls under "other cursors." Elijya posted:I knew it would happen sooner or later. Cat jumped onto my palette, then ran around room. Any advise for getting oil paint of a carpet without damaging the carpet or working the paint into it more? I realize this is a bit late and you've probably already tried it, but like Sia said, try kiss off. I swear by that stuff, I have yet to see the stain that it can't get out. Now, for my question: I have a couple of vector drawings done in Flash for a game. I want to make a printout of them life size, so about 5 1/2 feet tall. Flash won't export anything at all that large, and copying and pasting into illustrator makes the lines go all wonky. Is there any way to copy the vectors from Flash into Illustrator without screwing them up? I'm using CS4, if that matters. I have access to CS3 on this computer as well. I fully realize that I'm probably the only person in the world who draws artwork in Flash and then tries to take it into Illustrator and not the other way around. EDIT: nevermind, I figured it out. File > export > adobe illustrator. I feel kind of dumb now. gmc9987 fucked around with this message at 22:19 on Mar 25, 2009 |
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Mar 25, 2009 22:11
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The general consensus when I asked that question a few months ago in the drawing thread was to thumbnail the images and give a warning, but if you're really worried you could always just post a text link and give a warning beforehand.
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Mar 30, 2009 05:37
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windwaker posted:Not really great, sorry for the cell pic, but you get the idea. I want to draw it for them on something larger, like 8.5x11" paper, however, I want something more "visible" and bold than pencil. Would I just use markers for this? Are there specific markers that would be good for this? I might want to fill in the skates with some sort of tan color. Hopefully this way it'll be visible if it's on the wall, whereas the sketchbook doesn't really matter since you're using pencil and it's like a few feet from your face. Sharpies might work well. Prismacolor markers and Copic markers are the top "professional" quality marker brands out there, but they're much more expensive as well. I think Copics run about 6 bucks a marker. In all honesty though, if you're just looking for a solid black outline I'd buy a pack of sharpies and go to town.
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Apr 22, 2009 06:42
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A quick google search brought this up: http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=170002 yes, there is a difference between cheap primer paint and gesso. Gesso will last longer, and age better, than primer but I think the real test would be to see how it feels to paint on. Also, keep in mind that most house paints are specifically designed to repel oil and pigments so as not to muck up the pretty colors, so your primer might not let you work on it in oil pastels. Or it could end up really cool, I'd at least try it and see how it works, just don't expect it to be in a museum in several hundred years (not because it's bad art, but because it rotted away).
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Apr 29, 2009 22:00
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I'm pretty sure that's just regular old india ink. If you want to try it out yourself, you should be able to pick up a small bottle for about 3 bucks at any art store like Michael's or Hobby Lobby. Try using thicker paper, like bristol board or illustration board, if you're having trouble getting it to stay on the surface long enough to move around.
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May 8, 2009 19:47
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nahanahs: Make sure the tool is set to draw a shape layer, not a path. Make sure that the little button I've circled below is selected, not the middle one: That one took me forever to figure out, I have no idea why they changed that.
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May 18, 2009 22:01
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You'll have to crank up the shutter speed, probably to around 1/100. Shutter speed controls how long the lens stays open when taking the shot - 1/100 means one hundredth of a second. If your camera is digital, you might have to switch to manual mode in order to change the shutter speed.
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May 20, 2009 04:39
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Alright, I finally have a question to post in this thread. I am in the process of creating my personal portfolio website. One of the many sections that I have is for animations that I have done over the last several years. I have worked on multiple educational cartoons. Some of them have been created entirely by me, some of them with the help of other co-workers, some of them are for playback within the larger framework of an educational game, and some are standalone. All of them were created while employed by a company. My question is whether I am allowed to display these animations in full on my website. If I can, do I need to include the copyright bumpers that surround each video? My own personal thought is that this is OK - all of our videos are available free of charge to everyone, and all animations are officially hosted on youTube by my employer. Our policy is that everyone deserves access to educational materials regardless of budget. As long as I clearly state what I am and am not responsible for in each animation, is it OK to host them on my site? If that is not OK, I assume that I can embed the YouTube videos without a problem. I suppose I could also bypass this issue and make myself a demo reel. thanks in advance, I appreciate it. EDIT: I should also note, the youTube quality is kind of poor on these animations. Otherwise, I would have no problem just linking to the youTube videos. gmc9987 fucked around with this message at 02:55 on May 26, 2009 |
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May 26, 2009 02:53
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Flashdance posted:I'm desinging a business card at 400 dpi, and I'm having a hell of a time getting the black text (8 point) to not look smudged or as if the color bled due to PS's anti-aliasing when I actually print it out. I just got back from Kinko's with a mock-up printed on card stock in each of smooth/strong/crisp/sharp and they all look terrible in black. Non-anti-aliasing looks even worse, so I'm not sure where to go from here. I have text in dark green and gray as well and that looks fine. Oh, the font is Franklin Gothic Medium Condensed, if that helps. Any suggestions? Are you flattening and rasterizing the image before you give it to Kinko's? Try giving Kinko's the un-flattened document and see if that makes a difference.
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Jun 5, 2009 05:30
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No. 9 posted:I need a simple Wacom tablet or something that I can just use my own handwriting for a website and simple cartoony drawings on. I'm not looking to invest that much, and I hope to find an older thing off eBay. Any recommendations? It's gotta be USB, though. If you're just looking for something fun to fool around with, you can pick up a Wacom bamboo (their lower-end model) for about $99 new. If you hunt around on e-bay I'm sure you could find one cheaper. If you're just looking for a cheap, durable tablet to mess around with and aren't going to be a full-time Photoshop professional, look for either the Bamboo, Bamboo Fun, or older Graphire models. Honestly, 100 bucks is pretty cheap for a new tablet, and everyone I know who's bought a Bamboo model hasn't had any problems with it. EDIT: Turns out the Bamboo model is actually only 79 bucks, the Bamboo Fun (the next model up) is 99.
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Jun 19, 2009 14:32
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Elijya posted:For both my own artwork and my art collection, I have many pieces which are 11x17 and well over. How should I go about getting digital copies of this stuff? Take them to a Kinkos or Staples and have them scan them in on their larger machines? I'm not looking to publish anything, I'm just curious what the basic method is that makes everyone's online work look good, but mine look like crap. The scanner has made things better, but is still limited. I just use a consumer-grade 8.5 x 11 scanner, but I make sure to crop, color-correct, and resize all of my scanned images before posting, in that order. First, I trim the piece, cutting out all the negative space that isn't part of the composition. Then, I open up the levels menu and adjust the dark and light points for each color (quick tutorial here). Finally, I resize my image to the size I want to display it at. If my drawing is larger than my scanner, I scan in pieces, then piece them together in photoshop, and then follow all three of those steps. Also, I found it helpful to turn off auto-contrast (or whatever it's called in your model) in my scanner driver, and handle all of the color corrections myself. It'll also help keep your colors closer to what they were orginally laid down as. Hope this helps!
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Jul 6, 2009 20:17
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Zedri Edfly posted:Anyway, I have a question about Wacoms. I'm thinking about buying a 9x12 Intuos 3, but I'm kind of wondering if it will have any advantage over, say, a 6x8 or 6x11 if I'm using a 15.4" widescreen laptop. Would using the wider 6x11 feel more natural than the 9x12? I have a 9x12 wacom at home, and use a 6x11 at work. I have to say that the larger one I have at home is actually TOO large, the 6x11 is much more comfortable. It fits nicely on my desk, and I don't have to awkwardly cradle it in my lap to draw on it. As someone who has spent a good deal of time on both, I would say go with the medium size. Dvega posted:How do I get over the anxiety of doing art. I used to draw and write all the time. I wasn't any good at it but I at least had fun doing it. Nowadays it takes me the greater part of a day to get myself "psyched up" to draw, but by that time I'm so tense and my mind is so consumed with the thought of failure that I have no choice but to fail. I used to be the same way about a year ago. Do you have a sketchbook? I found that it's really helpful to use my sketchbook as my "warmup" phase before I start doing any serious drawing. Drawing is like any exercise or sport, you'll do a lot better if you spend some time warming up and stretching first before going for broke out on the field. Sorry for the horrible sports analogy, but it's really the best I can come up with. When I'm working on a finished piece, I will usually spend 30 minutes to an hour just doodling stupid poo poo in my sketchbook. Although I've improved a lot in the last year, the first few drawings of the day that I do always look awful, and nowhere near what I'm drawing after an hour or so. The thing is, if you have a sketchbook you can try out new ideas and techniques in an area where no one will ever see. That can help take the pressure off. You can work the kinks out of your ideas there, and then take them into another medium to finalize the nice, pretty version that everyone will see. Also remember that none of the time you spend drawing is a waste, even if the drawings themselves do not turn out so good. Not every drawing has to be good, but it should be fun.
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Jul 10, 2009 06:18
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fret logic posted:So then is it alright to bust out a notebook and hammer away or should I get lessons or do research to avoid bad habits? Does that really matter? That looks like a pretty decent bunch of things to start with, now get drawing! Lessons and books will help but the most important thing is to actually DRAW so stop posting and start drawing, bub! One thing I might add about your setup, if you're just starting don't be afraid to pick up new drawing implements or paper on a hunch. Most stuff is relatively cheap, so you can afford to experiment. Even try drawing with non-professional tools as well, my sister is a fantastic artist, and her favorite pencil to draw with are the cheap Bic .7 mechanical pencils, the ones that cost 25 cents apiece. If your tools aren't behaving the way you want them to, post another question and someone can help point you to a pencil or lead or whatever that will do what you want. have fun, and next time you post, make it a post of your drawing in the Daily Drawing thread (http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3163243)
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Jul 21, 2009 07:18
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Aygtets posted:I've been having this problem for a while, and I usually just deal with it. But now it's really starting to bug me. What file types have you tried? Saving as a .TIFF or .PSD will keep all of your layers intact, and should keep all of your color information there for editing although the preview image might look a little weird. If you have tried those two file types, there are a couple other things you can check. The first is what color mode you are working in on your file. Most of my digital art I do in CMYK mode, which is great because it prints exactly how I see it, but looks really weird when I save it as a flattened JPG. I found that flattening the file first, then converting to RGB gets rid of most of the color problems. Converting to RGB with the layers unflattened (especially if you are using any adjustment layers like levels, or blending modes) gives some really weird color changes in the final, flattened JPG. So, when saving your final image, flatten, convert to RGB, then save as whatever file type you need. If both of those options don't work for you, you can check your color management, and see if its embedding a weird color profile in your images. I have no idea how that works, though, and have never touched it so you're on your own with that one. hope this helps, and if anything is unclear just let me know.
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Sep 9, 2009 04:42
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Crisco Kid posted:I feel really stupid for not knowing this, but in a lot of traditional ink work I see large areas of black that are perfectly flat and uniform. Now, I know that no matter how much pure ink I lay down the result is never that flawless, so something is probably going on in Photoshop or another editing program. Is is simply done with Levels (I lose a lot of detail and shading trying to make my blacks pure with this option) or is there some other method? My method changes a little bit with each new drawing I scan, but my process generally follows these basic steps. First, make sure that your scanner's color correction is turned off. Make sure you scan your image at a much high resolution than you need the final product. I like to go overboard and scan at around 600 DPI for something that's going to be printed at 300 DPI. These next few steps are going to use a little sample image I have.  The whites are all off, and the blacks aren't flat. First, convert your image to grayscale mode. Open up your levels, and play around to get things kind of how you like them. It doesn't have to be perfect, but close enough. I like to drag the black point in quite a bit, and I'll also bring in the white point, as well, just to fade out any light pencil/stains/whatever I accidentally put on my paper as I was drawing. You should end up with something kind of like this.  Better, but it doesn't look so good in person as it does in this tiny low-res JPG. The next step is to change the color mode from Grayscale to Bitmap. In the "output" dialogue box that pops up, choose a higher DPI than your input. I like to go at least twice as high (so if my original was 200 DPI, I'd output 400 DPI). Trust me, this will help later. Under "method" choose "50% threshold." What this does is convert every pixel to either white or black, eliminating any grays. The high DPI that we use ensures that any details we lose will be ones so fine that they wouldn't be visible anyways in the final piece. Finally, change color mode back to grayscale, and choose 1 as the size option. Then, switch color mode to whatever you are going to be using (RGB or CMYK), reduce the image size to what you need it to be (this will smooth out the jaggy stairsteps from the bitmaping process) and get to work!  Obviously, this only works with completely black/white images with no grays at all. If you've got a lot of grays or ink washes, you might just be stuck with fiddling with the levels. Basically, the higher quality your initial scan is, the less detail will be lost when messing with the color balance.
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Sep 24, 2009 07:52
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triplexpac posted:I'm a print designer, but I want to get into web design because pretty much every job out there wants you to have web skills on top of print design. First, a good reference website is http://www.w3schools.com/ I don't really have any books I can offer, but you'll want to focus on creating structure and content with HTML, and using CSS to make everything look pretty. Some good websites to look at are http://www.csszengarden.com and http://www.alistapart.com both of them have good clean code and allow you to download and modify the CSS they are using. I'm sure someone else out there can recommend a good book on the subject, but these websites should be a good starting place.
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Oct 1, 2009 17:08
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triplexpac posted:That'll give me something to start off with at least, thanks! You know, keeping a supply of templates handy sounds like a good idea. And while I have had to do web design in the past, I had to learn it from scratch so I really have no idea what an average web designer's work flow looks like. I mocked things up in Photoshop and used that to select colors, export images, etc, but I'm sure there's a better way to do it. I only did it for a couple of websites at work, so all I really have to offer is those links.
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Oct 1, 2009 18:09
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sizemon posted:I've been tasked with creating a video background presentation for my band to have looping on stage for the duration of our show. It'll be meant to advertise the band, possibly merchandise, but also just be a cool video presentation. We're a top 40 cover band which plays for a wide age group, so I'm not looking for video of cows getting their eyeballs sliced open or anything. But some seemingly drug-induced animation in the spirit of the Beatles would be cool. If you've got a mac or a friend with one you can use iMovie. That's about as easy as it gets for free software. I guess Windows Movie Maker might do the same thing, but I've never actually used it so i don't know how good it is. edit: Also, http://www.archive.org has a lot of free, public domain movies and videos up online that are perfectly legal to chop and drop into your own compositions.
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Oct 27, 2009 01:12
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Farrell101 posted:I've been warned time and time again to draw from life rather than photos if you want to truly understand depth and perspective. Well, I want to do just that. We have a walk in figure drawing session at our local university every thursday from 10 to noon. The only problem is that I work 9-5 monday to friday. Check out this post in the drawing lessons thread. My tips, from personal experience, are as follows;
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Nov 4, 2009 15:17
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Elder posted:I need to apply the same changes (filter, gradient map, contrast) to a ton of images using Photoshop. Is there any way to automate this process? Actions. http://www.dpandi.com/actions/index.html here's a basic tutorial. Basically, you just press thee record button, do what you want, then hit stop. You can then run those same steps on any number of pictures.
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Nov 7, 2009 20:51
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OK, got a question about compositing video. I am currently heading up a project with an extremely tight deadline that is going to involve compositing a 2D "minority report" type computer interface (the one where Tom Cruise is manipulating video with his hands) over a video background. So, even though the interface is 2D it is going to have to match rotation and position pretty seamlessly with the background. Is there an easier way of doing this in Aftereffects than simply turning it into a 3D layer and keyframing the positions? We are limited to using Aftereffects, and cannot purchase any additional plugins. Free plugins are OK, and if they are really cheap (<$100) I can probably convince someone to buy them, but it won't be easy. I know that a lot of high-end production companies have a plugin or program that will allow you to track points in a video for reference and translate those into 3D movement automatically, but I don't know where to begin looking for (cheap) plugins like that. Thanks a bunch if anyone has any help with this! I'm pretty much a 2D artist myself, I'm not used to this whole newfangled 3D thing quite yet.
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Nov 13, 2009 00:11
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butterypancakes posted:After Effect's built in tracker is probably good enough, YouTube has some decent tutorials. This is exactly the answer to my problem, thank you! We will be shooting with a sheet of glass to represent the screen, and I am pretty sure I can paint my own tracking points onto the glass that will appear to be part of the futuristic UI, so no painting out needed. Thanks again! Also, I will keep videocopilot.net in my bookmarks - could be handy the next time I'm given an aftereffects project (which will probably be in another year or so. Which is a shame, I love aftereffects  )
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Nov 16, 2009 22:49
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jackpot posted:Crossposting from the general photo thread: I'm looking to put some photobooks together for Christmas presents, where should I look? I know mpix and lulu, just looking for some other options. The newest version of iPhoto lets you design and purchase photobooks using your pictures, but the caveat is that you have to have the latest version of iPhoto and a mac to do that. If you can get access to it at school or through a friend, that should do what you want.
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Nov 23, 2009 19:09
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Adobe InDesign or QuarkXpress are the two major ones. They do multipage layouts.
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Dec 1, 2009 22:45
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1. http://www.strathmoreartist.com/fineArt_sequential.php These papers all have blue guidelines for common panel measurements (1/2 of the page, 1/4, 1/3, etc). Most professional "industry" comic stuff is done with these, but some comics just make it up without any guidelines. 2. I don't think it actually matters what pencils you use, whatever can create the lines you're looking for. If you need small lines, try a small mechanical pencil. Larger lines, use a larger one. 3. You're going to have to experiment, but microns are pretty cheap and come in a variety of sizes. Buy a few different brands, you'll have to experiment to figure out what you like best. 4. Anything with a straight edge will work, I guess, but a ruler would seem to be the most practical. Also, a T-square to help get right angles. Just curious, have you actually drawn anything since you were a kid? What is this for? You might want to do a couple of "test pages" which tell 1-page stories first, to practice your comicking chops and drawing techniques. If you haven't drawn much since you were a kid, you might find it harder than you thought.
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Dec 22, 2009 05:41
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Kerfuffle posted:I recently bought a Cintiq Intous3 pen to use on my school's awesome Cintiq monitors and as a back up pen for my Bamboo Fun tablet. But it doesn't work with my tablet. It didn't come with any instructions or installers whatsoever and googling has proven useless. Pens are specific to different tablets. An intuous 3 pen won't work with a bamboo tablet, just like an intuous 4 pen won't work with an intuous 3 tablet. Sorry You can use any intuous 3 pen on any intuous 3 tablet, but you can't use a pen designed for a specific model of tablet on another model of tablet. Pens don't need to be installed, as long as you have the tablet hooked up they will work.At least as far as I know, maybe some enterprising guy or gal out there has found a way. Can you still return it?
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Jan 8, 2010 00:46
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stars posted:I need headphones that are loud (louder than the regular ipod by a good amount) but do not disturb the people around me. At the moment, when I listen to my ipod at work not only can everyone hear my music, it's not loud enough for me. I have no idea what I am looking for in terms of searching, good brands, etc. Help? I picked up a set of JVC HA-FX34 headhones a while back ad was pleasantly surprised with how well they sounded. The are a little uncomfortable at first, because that little marshmallow thing goes all the way inside your ear but it really helps block outside noise, and thee range is improved from the iPod headphones as well, they can play some really nice bass. I used them on an airplane, no problem. I don't know that they're louder than any other headphone (you'd need an amp to make the volume louder) but they do block out nearly all outside sound so you can actually hear things. epopt posted:I've been wanting to experiment with digital art, but I need some advice where to start. What is a good program to begin with? I'm mostly interested in uploading drawings and coloring them in, hopefully with a program that has nice textures and fun tools- in other words, nothing super-basic, I'm hoping to see what I can do with a lot of options at my fingertips. I like having a lot of useful bells and whistles to play with. I've been leaning toward Adobe Illustrator from what I've read, but I wasn't sure if that is meant for more professional work rather than the casual artist? You can use tablets with any program you want, you can even use them as a replacement for your mouse. If you want to use the pressure sensitivity (allows you to increase the size of your brush by pushing down harder, etc.), you'll need a program that supports that. I'm not that familiar with illustrator, but it seems to have a steep learning curve, and being a vector program it's a little difficult if you aren't comfortable with drawing. Photoshop, Painter, Alias Sketchbook Pro, OpenCanvas, and Artrage all support pressure sensitivity in Wacom tablets. If you're new to drawing, or just want something to doodle around in, I'd suggest Artrage, as you can buy the previous version of it for 20 bucks, or just get a stripped-down version for free. As for tablets, if you're not sure you're going to be using it a lot start out with something small like a Wacom Bamboo, they're not that expensive so if you find out that having a tablet doesn't actually make you a better artist or anjoy drawing more you won't be out several hundred bucks.
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Feb 3, 2010 15:31
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Little Blue Couch posted:What would be the best way to get a good-quality full-color print of a digital piece? It's for a portfolio review and I'd like to have at least one or two digitally colored pieces in there. It's kind of short notice, as well, so online printers aren't really an option. If it's just a one-off job, Kinko's or staples or some other copy-center type place would probably be your best bet, although the price may be a little more than you like. there might be better options out there, but I usually just go to Kinko's when I need something printed quickly.
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Mar 5, 2010 02:21
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GonzoRonin posted:Here's probably a very stupid question, but I tried to find info via Google and failed. What's the best way to display paper collages, like made from magazine cutouts? Is it bad to put them under glass? What will keep them from getting sunfaded besides, um, not hanging them near sunlight? I Mod Podge them, if that helps. I'd ask a frame shop about that. I do know that you can purchase UV protecting glass for your frames, although it generally costs about twice as much as regular glass.
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Mar 11, 2010 19:00
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Well, it won't be life drawing if it's from a photo, but regardless is it either humanvariation.blogspot.com or https://www.characterdesigns.com? I don't think humanvariation is around anymore but https://www.characterdesigns.com is great for photos of people in weird poses. Also check out http://mjranum-stock.deviantart.com/. And, just in case you were thinking about posemaniacs.com, I'd recommend drawing from a photo over the models on that site. The CG models don't bend or balance in any way similar to real humans.
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Mar 12, 2010 05:50
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Gnack posted:I don't know if this is the place to post this, but I assume there are a lot of Photoshop CS4 users in this forum so I may have some luck here. Are you seeing this problem when you are working on the file, or when you save in a flattened format? If you are seeing it in the working file, what color mode are you working in? Also, are you referring to the banding in the horizontal gradient in the image you posted, or the radial one? I don't know if I can help you at all, but knowing these kind of things will help narrow down the cause.
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Mar 25, 2010 02:27
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Gnack posted:I'm seeing it in the working file but to a much more tolerable extent. It's still pretty bad, just not AS bad as when it gets saved: that's when it really stuffs up. So what color mode are you working in? RGB, CMYK? Are you making the gradients in color or black and white?
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Mar 25, 2010 03:58
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You could always just print a test sheet and see how a photo and the text look.
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Mar 30, 2010 14:40
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Ahh, OK. Well, how readable the font is at that size changes depnding on the font so you'll probably want to print out a page with the font you chose. 9 is pretty small, so you may have to go bigger. Also anything above 200 dpi will probably look just fine when printed, but you could always ask the print shop if you could see a test page or proof to get it right before they print it up for real (even printshops like Kinko's and Officemax typically do this, it's kind of standard practice to make sure you're getting things the way you want before they go and print up the whole thing on really nice expensive paper).
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Mar 30, 2010 21:10
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Stratafyre posted:Definite stupid question; How good do you have to be to start college for art? As long as they don't require a portfolio review to get in, if you have the money to pay for the classes they won't turn you down. Even art schools like Art Institute of Colorado seem to follow that model. Also, do what Slashie said and apply yourself to all the lessons in the beginning drawing classes, they may seem pointless but they all teach some very important concept and they will all help you later. Good luck!
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Apr 4, 2010 16:51
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 16:17 |
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http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2563469 This thread seems to be right up your alley...
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Apr 29, 2010 04:16
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