|
anaaki posted:Thanks! I grabbed the synthentic because I read it was good to try it out, before spending the money on sable. But when I looked at prices, all the sables were $2-$3 and that didn't seem right. It seemed too inexpensive. And their #2s looked sooo skinny. It just didn't seem right to me. I was at Hobby Lobby though, and I plan on going to the real art store next week. A cheap sable brush will work just fine. Also, if you think a #2 is skinny then take a look at a 0, or 00. I like to use 18/0 a lot for really fine lines. Also, there are a lot of different tips on brushes. If you're doing general linework or just getting a feel for inking, make sure that the brush is labeled as "round," that's a good general-use brush. "liner" brushes have longer bristles and are for drawing long graceful lines and "spotters" are for tiny details and don't hold much ink.
|
#
¿
May 13, 2010 18:22
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 13, 2024 21:10 |
|
|
Elephantgun posted:Quick one: It might not be the same, but I posted my own method for scanning linework several pages ago: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3043233&userid=121383#post366163283 A long time ago, there was a thread in here on painting that had some pretty awesome info for beginning painters on stuff like color palettes, brands, etc. However, it has since died and disappeared. Does anyone have any links to resources on color palettes and oil painting supplies? I'm looking to get started again, but only have enough money for a few colors. I can make an educated guess as to what colors to get, and I've done some research on brands and supplies, but the advice of the people in this thread who have been painting for quite a while would be really helpful so I don't waste a lot of money buying stuff I don't need.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 11, 2010 22:36
|
|
|
paradigmblue posted:There is no art director. If he's consistently not meeting deadlines that he already agreed to, and refuses to give you an estimate of how long it will take him to do work, find yourself a new graphic designer. I applaud you making the effort to learn about what goes into a design and to work with the artist, so many people have very unrealistic expectations about graphic design and don't respect the work at all. However, if you gave him a timeline and he agreed to it, then he's responsible for getting it done. Remember, he is doing the work for you. He can put it in his portfolio when he's done, yes, but that is not why he is doing the work, he is doing it to advertise beer in your store and if he can't get it done on time you aren't doing any favors by continuing to pay him. Take your awesome attitude about working with the artist and put it towards an artist who can get things done on time and won't leave you hanging.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 20, 2010 16:48
|
|
|
Hacka_Tacka posted:stupid little question! Check your spam folder, it's just like registering for any other forum.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 21, 2010 01:48
|
|
|
http://www.dafont.com/ds-digital.font google search for "digital" font brings up a lot of digital fonts like that, some of them are even free!
|
|
#
¿
Aug 17, 2010 07:10
|
|
|
One of the biggest things that bumps up the price of framing is the size of the glass. The glass usually comes in set sizes, like 18x24 and 24x36, and if you are even one inch over 18x24, you have to pay for the full price of a sheet the next size up. It could be something as simple as one of the mats bumping the size of the piece up into the next price range. Ask them about the pricing on the glass, as that's the most expensive part. As long as you don't hang the poster anywhere that receives direct sunlight, you should be fine without the museum glass. Also, in general a double mat is excessive for just about anything I can think of. Go with one mat, in a color that complements the piece, or no mat and a simple frame. Just curious, what exactly are you getting framed, and how big is it? It sounds more to me like the lady in the frame shop picked up on the fact that you didn't have a plan, and just started throwing out the most expensive stuff they had to see what stuck, not necessarily because it was a good fit for your poster. Go in with a plan next time and see how much it is. Keep in mind that a decent framing job, even without all the expensive options, can run around 200 bucks.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 20, 2010 06:43
|
|
|
Assuming DTP means Desktop Publishing, Adobe InDesign. Or QuarkXpress, but I don't know anyone who uses that.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 1, 2010 04:44
|
|
|
Haggins posted:What's a good drawing app for the mac? I need something that's simple to get into so I can do some practice doodling. I'm not looking for MS paint simple, I just don't want something that doesn't requires me to read a a book to use. Artrage http://www.artrage.com/artrage-demos.html
|
|
#
¿
Nov 9, 2010 09:08
|
|
|
What do you mean by "sharpen amount," exactly? are you asking about sharpen filters, or how blurry your brush is? If you're asking about brush settings, they can be found in the "brush" window. It looks like this: I think "hardness" is what you're asking about.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 16, 2010 17:02
|
|
|
RizieN posted:http://omgposters.com/2010/07/09/the-cook-breaking-bad-art-print-by-tim-doyle/ http://www.c-drew.com/methods/split-fountain.htm Basically just put down two globs of whatever different colors you want, and after a few prints they'll for a nice little gradients where they meet. It gets muddier each time you do it though, and the results aren't super consistent from print to print so you'll find yourself washing your screen and adding ink again fairly often if you're making a lot of prints. gmc9987 fucked around with this message at 22:33 on Jan 23, 2011 |
|
#
¿
Jan 23, 2011 22:30
|
|
|
GENUINE CAT HERDER posted:Okay, this has been pissing me off for an age and I've been trying to ignore it thinking that I would just stumble across the answer somewhere (but obviously haven't) The touch strips on the sides are set to zoom in/out by default. In you wacom settings, there is a check box somewhere called something like "touch strips only respond to pen input." Turn that on, and the strips will only respond if you use the pen on them, not your hand. That bugged me forever, too.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 12, 2011 16:43
|
|
|
sbyers77 posted:This seems like a good place to ask even though this thread doesn't get much traffic. I know there is a word for what I am trying to describe and its been bothering me that I can't figure it out but any high-school lit teacher could tell me in two seconds. Anachronistic? Alternate Future?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 4, 2011 04:16
|
|
|
FlyingFish posted:I want to print a black pattern (mostly fine black lines) over a darkish grey background and have it appear sort of like the photoshop multiply blending mode... I did just that and test printed on a regular laser printer, and of course it comes out completely dark. The thing is I have to hand the file over to the client since they already sourced a local printer, and I'm all the way on the other side of the continent so I won't be able to communicate with the printer. Is there any rule of thumb when it comes to setting such a file up, or am I SOL? If the local printer is more than just one of their buddies with an Epson, they'll provide a color proof before actually printing the file so the client can approve the colors or have a chance to tweak them if they aren't up to spec. They can then have you make any adjustments needed or the printshop might do them, whatever your agreement is.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 16, 2011 14:35
|
|
|
AltoidsAddict posted:Oil pastels question. Where in New Mexico are you going to be camping? Southern or in the northern mountains? I'm asking because the northern mountains, in the forests anyway, can be pretty cool and pleasant. Southern NM (where I live) is pretty hot, it's alreadhy approaching 90 degrees during the day here. Albuquerque, about 3 hours north in the center of the state, is generally around 10 degrees cooler than the border areas. Maybe you could carry a little cooler with some ice packs in it or something?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 1, 2011 22:45
|
|
|
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Point_%28typography%29 I think postscript uses the measurement of 72 points to the inch, so you can always measure the physical size of the printed type and divide by 72 to get an approximate point size. It'll vary a bit from font to font but not that much.
|
|
#
¿
May 12, 2011 07:51
|
|
|
better than mama posted:I have this issue where whenever I save a jpg or png file in illustrator or photoshop (cs4) in CMYK and print any text with 0C 0M 0Y 100K, it still prints the other colors on the Brother 7040 printer. It ends up using a lot of color ink in areas that doesn't need it. How can I save the image or set up the printer so when only 100K is printed? This happens when I hit print from illustrator or if I save the image and print it from another document.. Try saving the file as a TIFF or PSD, which are formats made for printing as opposed to a format designed to save some kb in file size on the web. Other than that, take a look at the color management settings in Illustrator and see if Illustrator is set to override the color settings of placed images? I'm not too sure about that, I'd start by using a file format specifically designed for printing in CMYK rather than displaying on a monitor in RGB.
|
|
#
¿
May 19, 2011 17:34
|
|
|
gimboid posted:Forgive me if I'm reposting a question that was asked earlier. I just didn't want to have to lurk through 30 pages of text in order to find an answer to this question. I use behance.net, and it works well. The site is very professional and attracts a lot of high-quality people (mine is here). Also, even though it is still associated with deviantart, try daportfolio.com - it's a portfolio site that's linked to your DA account somehow (not sure how, or if it lets you pull projects from your account or what). Both of those work well, and are free. You can also use a blog, if you have to, but I personally think that portfolios as blogs are kind of unprofessional - they were not designed to be collections of your 10 - 12 best projects, which is what should be in your portfolio. Also, I've recently had to review 20 or 30 portfolios from potential candidates applying for a position, and I've got a list of all the things that really pissed me off abou them if they'll help you out:
Keep in mind these are all personal preferences but I'm sure I can't be the only one who's sick of hard to navigate portfolios.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 2, 2011 21:32
|
|
|
Shaocaholica posted:Not sure if this is the right place/thread but I have a flash question. I'm not entirely sure what you mean by "buzzing", and to clarify: are you scaling this in AE at all, or just letting the SWF play at its native size?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 8, 2011 01:28
|
|
|
Shaocaholica posted:Buzzing as in aliasing on a fine texture thats being scaled. I'm not scaling in AFX at all. The zooms are all done in the swf. Ahh, I get it now. Sorry, I can't help - I thought you were describing something happening while the SWF was scaling.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 8, 2011 18:08
|
|
|
Triangle posted:Is there any way to stop photoshop snapping to the layer you last worked on when you press undo? So, that instead of going to the last layer, it stays in the current one. This doesn't solve that annoying problem, but what I got in the habit of doing is every time I switch layers, I use my brush tool to make a mark off the bounds of the canvas, or out of my selection area if I have something selected.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 11, 2011 00:01
|
|
|
fuzzy_logic posted:I just got a set of Tombow markers. Questions: The white marker is probably a blender, you can use it to get smooth gradients between colors. As for flat areas of color, try coloring in long, straight strokes, all in the same direction. If you want consistent color you have to color consistently, if that makes sense.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 16, 2011 15:02
|
|
|
Besesoth posted:I've been asked to design a font for a project, and the client has asked for some of the extended characters, including capital letters with accents. If the "natural" capital letters extend from the baseline to the ascender, what's the convention for placing the accents? I know that some typefaces leave the capital letters the same height and place the accents above the cap line (and often above the ascent line), and others shorten the capital letters to keep accents under the ascent. This is my first "professional" font design, and so I'm eager to get it "right". Someone who knows more about fonts can confirm or deny this, but my understanding is that something like that is up to the designer's discretion and should be based on what the font is needed for. For example, if the font is designed to be computer-readable like OCRA or OCRB, then putting the accents within the baseline-cap height area makes sense - all of the characters need to fit in the same size area to be scannable. If the font is meant for display or body text, then putting them above the cap line is more readable.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 1, 2011 15:09
|
|
|
Not sure about keeping an image on top of your current window at all times, but you can prevent the automatic resizing of images by going to preferences -> general and unchecking the "zoom resizes window" option. There's actually a lot of really interesting options in there if you poke around. I also like to turn off "open documents as tabs" and "allow floating document window docking," that prevents me from having one window with 10,000 tabs in it. This is Photoshop, not Firefox, dammit!
|
|
#
¿
Jan 11, 2012 08:28
|
|
|
Lady of the Beech posted:Okay, so I'm really interested in drawing comics at print size because that's about the size I usually draw anyway, and because I'm cheap and that means all I have to do is cut down standard printer paper. I don't know of any others, but I saw Art and R. Crumb give a lecture together last year and Art said that drawing at print size was really a bad idea, and R. Crumb told him he was stupid for doing it. Take that how you will. EDIT: OK, this was supposed to go into my post above but I'm a big dummy who likes to increase my postcount or something, sorry 
|
|
#
¿
Jan 11, 2012 08:31
|
|
|
Lady of the Beech posted:EDIT: And why the hell would you draw cloth first. The cloth hangs off the body, not the other way around. They have nude life drawing classes so you can learn how the body works and fits together, yes, but that doesn't mean every drawing has to start with a naked body. Draw what you see. If you can't see the form of someone's arm or leg or butt because of baggy clothes don't go imagining what it looks like, that's the opposite of drawing from life. It's called "Making poo poo up." Lady of the Beech posted:EDIT: It makes sense because clothes are superficial in comparison to your body, they are not a part of your body, and you are always naked under your clothes, so sketch the naked form first and then add drapery. I'd just like to point out that sitting in a coffee shop drawing what you think people look like under their clothes is creepy and not all patrons will appreciate that. You don't need to draw an entire naked body to see how the folds of cloth lie on an arm, just put down a rough skeleton and draw what you see. Lady of the Beech posted:EDIT: And I'm not sure exactly what you mean by outline either. If you mean the thing you are drawing when you are tracing around people in photos (suggested by the fact that you want to draw cloth first for some indiscernible reason) then no because that's stupid and you're just going to get a flat cutout instead of a three-dimensional form. If you mean the 2-d form then yes, draw the form. I think telling someone looking to get better at doing 5-10 minute drawings of clothed people from life that they should learn how to draw big droopy boobs and butts is not really related to the question and very creepy, especially coupled with the "draw the person naked all the time, every time" advice above. Al-Saqr, Just put down enough of a skeleton / reference to allow you to get your proportions right, and then draw what you see. (USER WAS BANNED FOR THIS POST)
|
|
#
¿
Mar 12, 2012 07:18
|
|
|
Argue posted:So, I just moved to the Bay Area. Is there an awesome big art supplies store that all the cool kids go to? There's Dick Blick stores peppered all over, but I loved Flax on the corner of Market and Valencia in San Francisco when I lived there. Can't really say anything about the other cities in the bay area though, not sure how far from SF proper you are.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 7, 2016 10:59
|
|
|
J.A.B.C. posted:Goons, I humbly ask for your help and feedback. Totally not creating an account on whatever site that is just to give her this feedback so you'll have to pass it on: 1. the work you are posting as finished comic pages is what most comic artists would consider a rough sketch, 2. it is very obvious that you are not doing any sort of drawing or research outside of your furry/anime comfort zone, and 3. the website you have chosen to exclusively host your work on exists solely to allow furries to gather fetish material, of course you're not getting any real feedback or critiques. You can draw furry art or anthro or whatever the hell you want to, whatever floats your boat do what you want. But if you limit yourself to only talking to and posting with other people who are similarly single-mindedly obsessed you are never going to go beyond drawing bad Sonic OCs and weirdo anime people with too many swords.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 12, 2016 19:06
|
|
|
Lotron posted:Has anyone here ever made the leap from tablets to the Cintiq? How awesome is it? Almost 3,000 dollars awesome (for the good version)? The idea of drawing directly onto Flash or something sounds fun and interesting. But really, the price tag. Yikes. Most expensive sketchbook ever. I bought a 13HD back in December, after owning/working on a bamboo, Intuos3, Intuos4, and Intuos5. Neonnoodle is right about the color, I get around this by having my main monitor correctly color calibrated and having the navigator windows in Photoshop/Illustrator open on that monitor. My artwork is very line-centric, so having even the smallest Cintiq has been a huge improvement since my lines no longer look like butt when using Photoshop to draw them. Overall it is a good thing, however you might want to check out the recommendations in this thread for Wacom alternatives, there are a few other companies making pressure-sensitive tablets that will allow you to buy bigger screens for less money.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 21, 2016 08:00
|
|
|
My wife and I recently started getting into screen printing - does anyone here have any recommendations for youtube tutorials, books, etc. on getting started with screen printing, specifically in regards to care for materials, cleaning, and so on? We have all the basic materials assembled (press, ink, pressure washer, squeegee, drying space for prints) and have done a small test run that turned out well. We both have a tiny bit of experience with printing (we took a one-time class together, and I printed our save the date cards for our wedding myself) but all our experience has been in well-stocked, large studios where we were paying for access to equipment and a trained professional to help out if things went wrong. I've found several tutorials on youtube (Anthem Screen Printing has some helpful tutorials on registration and setting up multi-color images) but would love to see more that are concise, useful, and accurate.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 10, 2016 13:57
|
|
|
It's not really cheating so much as fixing a few big holes that exist in drawing software and tablet drivers. However, the holes might not be that obvious if you are just starting out. I'd recommend spending some more time drawing before plunking down some cash on it, spend some more months figuring out if the problems you have with drawing on a tablet come from the fact that you are still learning to draw or from the fact that the software just doesn't meet your needs. So many people plunk down a lot of money on drawing stuff in the very beginning and buy a bunch of stuff that they don't ever use again.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 12, 2016 11:06
|
|
|
Shows based on themes or inspired by different media are pretty common, not sure about the actual legal info but I have visited or seen online exhibitions based around the movie Eraserhead, Pokémon, Gravity Falls, and other works. I think as long as you're bringing your own style to the pieces you create and not just aping Maurice Sendak's images you should be fine.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 22, 2016 12:21
|
|
|
I'm guessing that this isn't the dude's primary source of income? Is he a student, or a hobbyist, or what? We'd need some more specifics on the amount and type of work before you can get any specific price information but I'd say offering $20 an hour is reasonable if the dude is a hobbyist, total beginner, or otherwise non-professional who just loves drawin' dragons or whatever.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 11, 2016 20:15
|
|
|
BashGhouse posted:They're a hobbyist, I think. We're talking 2 digital portraits of characters in a DnD campaign I'm running to give to the players. Well, feel free to offer them more money than they asked for - I am sure they'll appreciate it.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 12, 2016 10:17
|
|
|
snucks posted:I'm looking to get some occasional freelance gigs and I'm tired of maintaining my own website. Is Behance the best free portfolio website available for artists? Behance was OK for me, but if you have an Adobe CC subscription you should have free access to their myportfolio.com site, which pulls projects and data from your behance website and puts it into a prettier portfolio format. for reference: my behance, my myportfolio site.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 3, 2016 10:06
|
|
|
If you set all your objects to the same transparency, you can select one of them and then go to select > same > opacity and it will select all (unlocked, visible) shapes with that same opacity percentage. As far as I know, there's no easy way to just select all objects that are not 100% opaque.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 6, 2016 12:08
|
|
|
I can help with 2 out of 3:PRADA SLUT posted:How do I adjust the gradient so it only applies to the circle layer? I believe I add a mask somehow but I'm not sure how to do it. There are a couple different ways to do what you're asking here, but if you have to keep the gradient and circle as separate layers: put the gradient layer above the circle layer, then hold down the ALT key and position your mouse cursor on the border between the two layers in the layers palette - the cursor should change to a square with a little arrow coming off of it. Once the cursor looks like that, click, and the layer on top will use the transparency of the layer below as a mask. PRADA SLUT posted:Lastly, how do I force Photoshop to save a PNG without transparency? file > export > save for web (legacy) (or SHIFT + ALT + CTRL + S). Select PNG-24 from the top drop down menu, uncheck the box that says "transparency." I'm sure the slice tool has something to do with your second question, I've never personally used it but that might be a good place to start reading in regards to slicing things up.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 6, 2016 18:26
|
|
|
mutata posted:You could select > same > opacity a 100% opacity object, hide all of those, and then drag select the whole canvas to see if anythings left. Genius! I'll have to remember that.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 11, 2016 08:21
|
|
|
screaming marmot posted:This might be a very dumb question but here goes: Maybe try Slack? An artist I know created a similar thing on Slack a while back, it was great while it lasted but ultimately didn't have enough member growth to be self-sustaining. If you end up creating a thing I'm always down to meet and chat with other creatives.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 11, 2016 15:56
|
|
|
Potential BFF posted:I like to draw and doodle as a hobby and I've started playing with my drawings in Photoshop enough that I'm thinking of getting a tablet of some sort. I checked out the Wacom thread but that seemed focused on super high end stuff. Any recommendations for a relatively bare bones entry level drawing tablet? Wacom has completely changed their naming convention for tablets in the last few years, I know they used to be called Bamboo, but I think it's just Intuos now, with Intuos Pro being the higher-end tablets and Cintiq being the display tablets. I did professional work on a Intuos Pen & Touch for a year and a half, which at the time was their $99 model. It worked really well for the price point and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it for a hobbyist or beginner.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 21, 2016 09:04
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 13, 2024 21:10 |
|
|
goodness posted:If I plan on doing oils eventually should I start with that? That would be better for learning color/blending since they don't dry as fast You can buy retarder medium that you can mix with your colors so they won't dry as fast. Not sure how it affects color property but if fast drying turns out to be a problem there's ways to slow that down.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 15, 2016 10:13
|
|