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Chernabog posted:Thanks for the advice. I live in Mexico so it may be worth it anyway, I guess I can look into it and at worst I can choose not to do it. On the bright side I already have a full-time job so it's not like I'm going to starve either way. You might have better luck if you search for jobs in Spanish, that's how my wife found her customers. I don't know, do what you got to do to keep yourself fed but just be aware that despite their claims, these websites are 100% NOT there to help freelancers make a better living. Also in retrospect my time on those websites would have been way better spent working on my own projects or networking. Getting started freelancing takes time to build a client base but once you get it going it gets easier.
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May 23, 2018 15:18
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Lincoln posted:Illustrator: I have a single shape with a gradient. I want to split it into two shapes, but have the gradient stay the same in each shape, and not have the gradient "reset" in each shape" after the split. How do I do that?
this broken hill posted:nothing much what's up with you, work 
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May 25, 2018 15:27
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mudskipp posted:Yea - I even tried to buy a blacker black at one point (it didn't make a difference..). Very few things in real life are actually black or white, so large areas of black in a painting will stand out as being unnatural. Black and white both mute the intensity of colors pretty hardcore as well, so if you want a deep, saturated area in your painting black is a bad choice. Similarly, shadows aren't black either - our eyes generally interpret them as being toned towards the complement of whatever color your light source is. So, yellow sunlight would have shadows tinted towards the navy/purple side of the color wheel, not black.
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Jun 24, 2018 09:57
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Kaedric posted:My 8 year old daughter has been drawing/painting as a hobby for a long while now, and she seems (to me) to be very good at it for her age and I wanted to support her taking it more seriously. One way would be introducing her to digital art, because I figure early exposure could be really good for her when it comes to learning it. Does anyone have any good suggestions on how to do this? I think you'll probably get the most mileage out of just encouraging her to draw things that are more complicated or taking on longer projects - illustrating a small short story or a 2-page comic or something. She's already going to grow up more computer savvy than you are (sorry, it's the truth) simply by virtue of being younger than you and having access to way more computer tech at a younger age. A willingness to try (and potentially fail at) a bigger project , while enjoying the process of working on it, is one of the best learning tools around. EDIT: just want to clarify: digital art, especially with an age-appropriate app on an iPad or similar device, could be a lot of fun and there's nothing inherently wrong with exposing your daughter to that creative outlet. But if she decides later on that she wants to pursue art more seriously, the things that will help her most in doing that aren't tied specifically to digital or analogue art but rather your feedback to her art, how confident she feels about tackling bigger projects, and how she handles "failing" at a project. gmc9987 fucked around with this message at 14:51 on Jul 3, 2018 |
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Jul 3, 2018 14:47
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Tag yourself, I'm the guy holding the devil's bassoon while playing a flute with my butt. Pennywise the Frown posted:Mostly I don't know about everyone else, but I'm a bit confused about what exactly you're asking for - are you looking for something to purchase? For images to use as inspiration to make your own posters? Pictures that you can download and print yourself for free? Congratulations on going to therapy and taking steps to improve your life - that's a difficult thing to do, and an even more difficult thing to stick with. I think you're awesome for doing that.
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Jul 7, 2018 14:51
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or ideas or something. I wouldn't even know what to ask someone to draw/paint or how to do it. Maybe a good place to go look for that stuff. I was looking for over an hour today and couldn't find anything that I liked.
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Ferrule posted:This ain't a stupid question, just advice: That was me, sorry. I sent several emails to Adobe asking them to take the most standard, universal feature in every visual editing program and change it to the exact opposite of what it was.
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Oct 26, 2018 17:24
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Lincoln posted:Photoshop CC: If you can't undo the move then yeah, that's really the only option. I have a client who's had me create a little over 700 animated GIFs for him over the last year and a half, with no sings of stopping, so if anyone has a solution to this issue I would love to hear it. Even after 700 gifs I'm still making mistakes like this from time to time, and throwing away a whole complicated animation because I forgot to select a frame in the timeline drives me insane.
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Nov 5, 2018 16:04
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Rapt0rCharles9231 posted:If you're using CC, at the top of the layer panel there should be a couple of icons to the left of the propagate frame 1 checkbox. Unify: <pin lock> <eye lock> <fx lock>. It only appears when you have a document with frame animation (maybe video too? I don't use that so...) Oh that's nice, thank you for this. I needed this feature so badly and I feel really dumb that it was just sitting there right in plain sight the whole time. CaptainViolence posted:is it something you can do in after effects using assets you create in photoshop? i don't do a ton of animated gifs, but i've found that a lot easier than working with photoshop's timeline. media encoder lets you export from ae to gif, although i don't know how well it's optimized. I can't speak for Lincoln's work, but for myself I only have between 1 and 3 hours to make each GIF, and the GIFs themselves are made from pre-selected photo assets that require editing in Photoshop (color correction, background removal, etc.) and are no more than 30 frames long max. It's just quicker for me to do everything in one document in photoshop than to edit source photos, save as an appropriate non-JPG format, then set up an aftereffects file for a gif that runs for 12 frames. Basically, I'm doing quick simpler animations like this:   
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Nov 7, 2018 23:25
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Fruity20 posted:Question for anyone who uses a cintiq: I might buy one during the summer but i was wondering, how do you connect a cintiq to monitor? most of the tutorials i've seen were for laptops but barely for monitors. That and i have a dell ultrasharp and i'm not sure if it supports a second monitor. Does your computer have an HDMI plug? Just plug the HDMI cable into the appropriate spot on the back of your computer and you're good to go. The cintiq is a monitor on its own, so you connect it to your computer, not to the monitor. If your computer only has one monitor output on the back then your video card doesn't support multiple monitors, and you'll need to either upgrade the video card or just use the cintiq as your monitor.
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Jan 11, 2019 17:55
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Fruity20 posted:so i just realized my computer has only one hdmi port...but it has a dvi and vga though. Then you can plug one monitor into HDMI and the other into DVI or VGA. Adapters exist to convert between any combination of those plugs so buy the one you need and there you go. For what it's worth I would keep the Cintiq on the HDMI without any adapters, and buy the adapter you need for your existing monitor.
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Jan 12, 2019 11:32
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mike12345 posted:that looks great, ordered That book is fantastic, but just keep in mind that it covers more the drawing and movement part of animation and less the technical side - inking, lining up your pages, pegs, etc. It goes into those subjects tangentially, but if you also plan on learning more about the mechanical side of animation you'll probably want to find an additional book on that.
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Feb 26, 2019 23:42
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I have hundreds of brushes that I've downloaded and tried out on my computer, in the end I have 3 that get regular heavy use - a brush for linework, a brush for coloring flats, and a brush for blending (a har round brush with the opacity set to pen pressure). After that, I have a few brushes that are good for adding various textures, and some specialty brushes for when I'm looking for a specific effect - some marker brushes, some watercolor brushes, some charcoal/chalk brushes, etc. Honestly I'd say to figure out how, exactly, you want to paint - do you want to make linework? Do flat shading, textures, or blending? Pick your own shadow colors or let multiply/darken make some for you? - an look for a couple brushes set up to do just that. But honestly, as a starting point going with a hard round with opacity set to pen pressure won't lead you astray.
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Mar 8, 2019 22:55
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Al! posted:hi thread i need help again, sorry. someone requested prints from me and i don't even know where to start. i understand more or less what i need to do from the technical side in terms of preparing the artwork, but not at all what i'm supposed to do from the business side. is a small print run even feasible to do with next to no capital to start with? should i just get it done at a printing shop and mount it on some board if i don't really anticipate selling more than 10 units or whatever? is this just a problem that has been solved by some service on the internet that i should just use? Most online print services I've found have been cheap enough that you can order a small (10 - 50) print run of an image for not too much money, although the cost per print gets exponentially cheaper the more you order. I ordered a single print of a giant poster a while back and it was like 30€, 10 copies would have been about 40€, 25 copies 50€, and so on. So it makes sense to order as many as you can, within reason, on each run. Provided, of course, that you have a continual outlet to sell them through. Online print portals tend to be cheaper than your local print shop - not paying for any physical customer-facing expenses like receptionist, counters, pricing brochures, etc. cuts down on a lot of the cost. The drawback is that it takes extra time to get proofs an review them. Another option would be to look at a site like society6 or redbubble or inprnt, which take a cut of each print sold but handle the printing, shipping, and ordering side for you. Also, is the mounting on a board thing something the customer asked for? Because I have never sold a print mounted on anything, I just roll them up into a tube or protective sheet of paper and after that it's the buyer's responsibility to mount or frame it how they want. If you're mounting it yourself for the sale, then you should make sure to include the cost of the mounting board and the time you spent mounting it in the sale price.
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Apr 26, 2019 09:16
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BetterLekNextTime posted:I posted this in a Dorkroom thread too but figured I'd try here as well. I'm looking to design and order press print calendars with lots of pretty photos in them. I ordered one last year and it actually came out pretty good without needing to adjust anything from the proof, but I think that was dumb luck on my part. I now have a better monitor (BenQ) and I'm getting a tiny bit more comfortable with color management with my inkjet printers, and I'd like to be able to make sure my photos are going to look good when converted to CYMK and printed. Is there any reason that you're not converting them to CMYK yourself before bringing them into Indesign? If your print shop is printing a CMYK file, there's no real reason that I can see for you to be working with RGB JPGs in InDesign. Also, coming from a print background, you probably shouldn't be using JPGs as print files - JPG was invented for file size concerns and was never really intended to be used for printing, even exporting at 100% quality uses some compression and loss. I'd use CMYK TIFFs as your links in the Indesign doc, it's a lossless format that supports CMYK colors so it will work nicely with printers. gmc9987 fucked around with this message at 12:53 on May 16, 2019 |
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May 16, 2019 12:41
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BetterLekNextTime posted:Are there any Photoshop alternatives? A quick search suggests neither Photoshop Elements or Gimp can do CMYK (and I can confirm Lightroom won't do it). I'm not completely averse to getting Photoshop but if there was an alternative I might check it out. Here's a post with some less money gougey Adobe alternatives - not sure how many of them can do CMYK, but this should give you a good starting point for searching. https://twitter.com/molleindustria/status/1128664925734428672 Totally don't know how to embed tweets into posts, so my stupid question for the thread is: how do I get tweets to embed in SA posts? E: I am dumb. It does it automatically if you post the URL, the embed just doesn't show up in post preview.
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May 17, 2019 09:45
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lofi posted:Gimp's probably the best bet. Doesn't do CMYK, unfortunately, which seems to be the sticking point.
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May 17, 2019 13:35
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1. Scrivener. Let's you link in any docs or images you want, keeps each file as a virtual note card, and lets you arrange note cards manually in pin board mode and link from cards to other cards. 2. Not sure, sorry.
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Jun 9, 2019 09:19
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Jack B Nimble posted:Ok this one is really stupid but I'm not having any success googling the answer myself; does anyone have an article, video, or just their own tip/guide on how to abstract/simplify/sketch complex patterns/textures? The specific problem I'm running into, and apologies in advance for being such a neck beard, is I'm trying to sketch out my friend's table-top RPG characters and I don't know what to do about chainmail armor - it can't be right that I'm supposed to draw out each link, because that's way too much line work for a sketch, it would be totally at odds with the rest of the drawing and I'd just mess it up. Without seeing some examples of your drawing style and what you've tried so far I can't give any specific advice. There's a few things you could try - are these sketches shaded at all? Try putting your texture only in areas of deep shadow, while leaving mid-tone and highlighted areas blank. You could also use value instead of texture - tiny repeating patterns usually get averaged out by the eye into a general "tone" when they aren't the focus of the image, so coloring the whole chainmail area a solid grey that's slightly darker than the rest of the drawing could help convey the difference in material. You could try using a pattern of scribbles, circles, or some other overlapping textural pattern - the brain is very good at taking areas of dense texture (even if it isn't a 100% accurate representation of the source material) and just...making it work. I think the main issue, though, is that you have to give yourself permission to let go and just not draw 10 billion individual overlapping links. Its OK to not do that. If you do decide that you need the texture to look 100% accurate to chain mail, pick the areas in the drawing where having that much tiny detail present will add to the drawing, since (as you've already discovered) doing it on everything will just make the drawing look cluttered and draw your eye's attention to the wrong parts. Also please feel free to post the problem sketches in the daily drawings thread and ask for some critique if you want, we're real friendly over there and you'll get some helpful replies. You'll get better advice if you post the drawings in question so we have some frame of reference.
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Jul 30, 2019 22:59
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lofi posted:Good Stuff This is good advice, the most important thing is to just get out there and draw. Hardcover sketchbooks are great, because then you can draw on a bench or wherever you end up; softcover books necessitate being at some kind of table or desk whenever you draw. The only thing I'd recommend different would be the pencil grades - I'd say get an HB and a 2B so you can get some good middle and darker grays, and if you want a third add a 2H to the mix for very light, fine lines. Honestly though that's all personal preference, the main thing is that most pencil sketching kits ten to give you way more options than you'll need. There's rarely going to be a situation where the difference between a 6B and a 7B pencil is going to make or break your drawing. Get 2 (maybe 3) different pencils, start drawing, and as you get more in the habit pick up whatever else you need based on what you feel is missing from your work ("Man, I wish I could make darker black areas" > add a 4B or 6B pencil, "I'd love to be able to carve fine white lines out of this gray area" > buy an eraser pencil you can use in your sharpener).
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Aug 2, 2019 20:34
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Christoph posted:This is a weird one, but what's a good program to write a book in? I kind of hate Word and associate it with work. Is there a better free program? It's not "free," but it is a one-time $50 purchase - I really like Scrivener. It's purpose-built for making long-form documents like books an screenplays, you can give it a 30 day free trial an see if it's up your alley. disclaimer: I am not an author, nor have I ever wrote a full book, but I fin the program to be incredibly useful for keeping track of various character documents and research while writing my story out.
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Aug 12, 2019 07:59
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I am working on a little intro animation for a youtube channel. I haven't been in the audio sourcing game in quite a while, can anyone here recommend a good free/cheap royalty-free SFX website? I need to find a short stinger for the intro, and the budget for this project is very tiny so subscribing to one of the larger SFX/music licensing websites isn't an option right now; I mainly just want something inexpensive or free that I can legally use.
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Aug 20, 2019 10:11
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The Skeleton King posted:I've just gotten my first drawing tablet and need good brushes to work with. I'd prefer stuff that just makes lines look more "natural" or like they were drawn with an actual pen, but don't know where to look. I can use photoshop or GIMP. If you have a CC subscription, Kyle's Brushes are included in that - you'll just need to download whatever packs you want to play with (in the brushes palette, in the upper right corner, click the little icon that looks like several lines on top of each other, then select "get more brushes..." and there ya go).
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Aug 21, 2019 12:12
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Yeah that's what I've been doing. I was just wondering if anyone had any specific sites they could recommend, that either had good selection or a good track record when it came to supporting artists and preventing people from uploading sounds they didn't actually have the copyright to. Thanks for responding!
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Sep 15, 2019 20:02
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This is just a stab in the dark, but by any chance are the swatches in the problem library left as normal colors, while the other libraries are spot colors?
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Nov 13, 2019 18:28
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kiimo posted:I guess I could do that but I'd need to know how much to pay per image and then pay up front for something being created from scratch and have no reference to the level of what I receive and no matter what it looks like I need to pay for it. Just kind of risky but I guess it's not out of the realm of possibility. Thanks for the guidance! You got some pretty good advice already and it seems like you're on the right track but you have some false assumptions here:
This probably sounds a lot saltier than I intend it to - I just want to dispel the myth that buying artwork is some kind of mystery box where you put in as much money as requested and just hope you get something you like.
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Feb 21, 2020 13:25
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