Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

throat luv posted:

I am trying to make a collage in Photoshop CS4 that contains 16 pictures. I have horrible skills using photoshop, I followed some guides online but these will only support like 6 images. I have tried to up the size of the new pallet to 1680x1050pixels to match my desktop ratio but when this happens the pictures appear to be like 1/20 there normal size:eng99:

Any assistance would be marvelous !

When you make your canvas bigger, the photos appear small because, well, they probably are. You could work at this size, zoom in and work in there, then afterwards use the CROP tool (3rd down, I believe; looks like a little square with a line through it IIRC) and shrink the canvas down to size. May make it easier for you.


Otherwise, what sort of collage are you trying to make?
Just soft blending from one into the other?

Bring all of the photos into one document as separate layers, then you can either place them and use the eraser tool to blend into eachother (not a good way at -all-), or on each layer create a mask (at the bottom of the the layers menu there's a button that looks similar to: [ O ] -- click this and you've created a layer mask!).

Paint on this to hide parts of your layer. This is the better method because if you screw up or want to change something, you can easily go back and paint the image back in, whereas if you deleted it you'd be... screwed.

If you just want your photos to be their normal square/rectangle shapes and placed over eachother, bring them into one document (each as a separate layer), and use the TRANSFORM tool to rotate them to fit.


If this doesn't answer your question any, I can explain further/provide other alternatives. Let us know.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

throat luv posted:

Great advice! If you got the time-- do you have an AIM/skype name I can reach you at, I had miscellaneous other questions and didn't want to clutter the thread.

e: nvm

Travakian fucked around with this message at 05:44 on Apr 19, 2012

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

Sundae posted:

:words:

These are called compound adjectives. I like compound adjectives. Hyphens are required.

Wiki for more (very short article).

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

Pen Expers posted:

Can someone recommend a good pen for illustration? I'm left handed so I often have problems with pens because the tip is being pushed into the paper rather than pulled across it. I don't really know where to begin other than something with a fine point and would probably have to be either felt or a gel pen or something.

Have you tried Pentel EnerGel? Use these for sketching and Pilot G2 for writing, does me just fine. No runs, doesn't leak through, etc. All good.

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

May be the wrong place for this.

Working on a mograph piece, using Trapcode Particular and I'm getting these strange doubling issues -- two particles are being generated in the exact same space but delayed a few frames in time. Anyone know why it's doing this?

Hosted on tinypic because waffleimages are down - if anybody at all comments on the non-official hosting, I'll remove the link without question.

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

gce posted:

looking to convert this little rat fellow to a vector image. i thought that it would be pretty easy but i'm pretty bad with illustrator. can anyone help?



I wasn't sure if you meant 'help' as in, 'give tips' or 'can you please do it?' -- so I've done both.

My Method:
  1. Using Illustrator, put the raster image on a layer and lock it.
  2. In a new layer, select the pen tool, and just click at all of the 'significant points' on the raster image of the mouse, on the layer below. (This would be the end of the nose, end of the ears, between ears -- any time the line changes direction). It will look very blocky and straight, but that's OK.
  3. Because this is an organic shape, there aren't any of these aforementioned straight lines -- select all the anchor points (press 'A' to switch to 'Direct Selection Tool' [it's the WHITE cursor], click and drag on the artboard and select all the points), and press the 'Convert selected anchor points to smooth' button at the top pane. It looks like a square with a curve going through it.
    1. IF you don't see it, and instead see the fill/stroke options, select all the points except one, convert to smooth, then select the last one and convert that. Sometimes it does this, others it doesn't.
  4. Now you should have a squiggly semi-mouse. Good! Move the points better into place using the 'Direct Selection Tool' if any are off or need fixing.
    1. You should see that the lines don't quite match up -- this is alright. Remember before we hit that 'Convert to smooth' button? What that pretty much did is shape the point's handles such that the line became a curve. This means we are now free to go back in and readjust the handles, shaping the curve to fit the mouse's body.
  5. Do this now; click any point, and then click and drag either of the little white balls coming off of it. This will adjust the curve.
    1. If you want to adjust one side independently of the other, you'll need to switch to the 'Convert Anchor Point Tool' (Shift+C, looks like a cursor with no fill. Or a V, rotated to point northwest.) Then just click and drag a handle as normal, it'll move without affecting the other.

I noticed that the mouse had flat feet. Thus, using the handles, I pretty much killed the curves on the line between the two points. Otherwise, pretty simple.

tl;dr (aka "gimme the file")


The original graphic is the middle small one. Rest are vector.

Email me at <myusername>@gmail.com and I'll send you the .ai file.

I realize it's not perfect, but for five minutes it's pretty decent, in my opinion.

Hope this helped!

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

gmc9987 posted:

This is exactly the answer to my problem, thank you! We will be shooting with a sheet of glass to represent the screen, and I am pretty sure I can paint my own tracking points onto the glass that will appear to be part of the futuristic UI, so no painting out needed. Thanks again!

If you don't need to see through it, consider putting something black behind the glass; this way you can just screen your graphics on top and still get all the reflections.

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

When dealing with audio, is (A over B) the same as (B over A)?

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

Elder -- there are some scripts to create IK rigging systems within AE. Here're some links:

http://www.simplycg.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=3974
http://aeportal.blogspot.com/2009/03/inverse-kinematics-script-for-after.html

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

Elder posted:

Wow, that looks very cool, thanks! My brain is getting a little slow now so I will have to take a look at it tomorrow but it seems like exactly the thing I need.


Anchor points and parenting is working very well though.



Also. http://aescripts.com/ is your friend. For most of them, you can choose to pay a small donation, or just enter 0 for free download.

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

Elder posted:

Is this an appropriate place to ask about making and using a green screen?

Well, feel free. Will help as much as I can.

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

Elder posted:

What's the reason for lighting them independently? What would happen if I didn't?

a) Your foreground will have horrible lighting and will cast shadows on the greenscreen.

or

b) Your background won't be well-lit enough because you set your lights for your foreground, thus making it noisy/right pain in the rear end to key out.

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

d3c0y2 posted:

Just a small question here, but I'm really struggling to get posing right on some more complex poses. Especially in regards to perspective.

I'm trying to draw a piece on the Battle between Arthur and Mordred in my spare time, as I love Arthurian lore. For the scene I'm imagining Arthur kneeling and wounded, with one arm held to his side and the other holding himself up against the floor, but I'm finding such a complex pose difficult to get right. I was wondering if anyone had any tips for drawing complex poses such as this?

I know nothing about drawing, so this may not help any, but many animation studios have a room or area set aside so that the animators can themselves act out various poses and have somebody photo/film them for reference -- why not get somebody to take a photo of you in such a pose, so that you could see what it looks like from another perspective?

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

Iron Squid posted:

Is all Poser "artwork" the retarded step-child of the art world or is any of it good?

I use Poser very, very occasionally if I need basic animation of people moving, which I will then turn into outlines/shapes/etc later. Don't ever actually use the final renders for anything, though.

Edit: Like this, but less poo poo.

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

I'm working as a broadcast designer; it's my first time dealing with broadcast standards, and I'm wondering if the way we're doing things is the "proper" way, or if it's just how this company does it.

SD = Rendered as lower fields first
HD = Rendered as upper fields first

^ Is this typical for all broadcast graphics? Why does HD use upper first vs lower?

Forgive my naivety! It's a new world.

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

Kobayashi posted:

Should I be in the business of messing with the kerning of something like Minion Pro?

I'd like to use it for some all-caps headings, and to my eye, I feel like I should push the "V" and the "A" closer together. Am I right to think that the kerning table is optimized for the readability of something like a paragraph, and that it might be OK to adjust for headings?

If you're using Adobe software, try switching from 'Metric' kerning to 'Optical' (or 'Optics,' can't remember which it is) -- this makes the letters align with eachother based on the letter shapes, as opposed to following the built-in tables.*

*More or less. Just try it.

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

This is one of those things where I've always put up with a huge irritation because it's easier than finding a way to fix it. No longer.

I'm a PC-using designer, and as such I've got a poo poo-tonne of fonts both installed and not-installed. Can anyone recommend a good organizer, where I can tag/label/sort my fonts, preferably with size/style options (for to try them out in-software?)

Ideally, so I can search for something like.. 'sans' 'clean' and find Futura there and type in my text, see how it'd look in size 40 bold smallcaps, etc.

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

Slashie posted:

...but student installations of the software are expressly not for use on professional projects...

Zurich posted:

It's completely fine to use it on professional projects, I remember an Adobe rep answering a blog or forum post confirming it a while ago.

Zurich is right.

From Adobe's Student/Teacher Edition FAQ:

Adobe posted:

Can a student or teacher use the Adobe Student and Teacher Edition software for commercial use?
Yes. Those who purchase this product can use it for personal as well as commercial use.

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

MiketheGreat posted:

My computer froze up in the middle of working in Photoshop, on a document I was saving every five minutes or so. In fact, it froze up in the middle of saving. Now Photoshop tells me it's not a valid document when I try to open it. Is there any way to recover it, or am I hooped?

To prevent myself from lecturing you on versioning, here's something that may work:

  1. Create a new document with the same dimensions.
  2. Drag the PSD into this document window; depending on your version of Photoshop, it should try to bring in that .psd as a smart object within your new, main comp.

If that works, then open up the document-now-smart object and save it out as a new PSD.

If it doesn't, you're more or less SOL.


Also: this is why you version. Start a new project? Awesome! Project_v001.psd. Make any significant change or alteration? Save As > Project_v002.psd.

"But Trav, these files are BIG, my poor hard drive!" -- What's more valuable to you? A couple hundred megs, or hours of work lost?

My AE projects can run anywhere between 8 and 80 versions. If something's corrupted, I can go back. If the client wants something different, I can go back. If I hosed up big time, I can go back. Just make sure your output is named with the same version as the comp it came from, and BAM! you know exactly which version produced which changes.

Oh hey, there's that versioning lecture. You really have no reason not to do it. If space is an issue, delete all but the oldest ~5 versions when the project's finished.

Travakian fucked around with this message at 07:55 on Mar 15, 2011

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

MiketheGreat posted:

Yep, the file was beyond repair. I hadn't heard that remedy before, though, so I'll keep it on hand. The tough part now will be breaking the habit of simply relying on a quick Ctrl-S, and doing some versioning. Do you know if saving to a cloud (like Dropbox) might automatically do something like this?

You may be able to find a Photoshop Action that does this. Otherwise, just get in the habit of Ctrl+Shift+S for "Save As," and doing it manually!

-- I think later versions of Photoshop let you put a + at the end of the filename and it does it, though I'm really not sure. Haven't done any extensive PS work in a while, I've forgotten all the little tricks. Maybe it's Maya I'm thinking of.

Sorry it was dead -- best of luck with all!

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

Titanium_Lass posted:

Can anyone please assist me with rigging a dolphin in 3D StudioMax? I've tried looking for rigging tutorials for sharks or fish, but can't seem to find any. And rigging tutorials for bipeds just don't translate well; I'm a modeler/texturer, not a rigger. I thought a dolphin would have a fairly simple rig, but it's proving a real bitch. I'd really appreciate any help.

Ask in the 3d thread.

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

feedmyleg posted:

In Photoshop (CS5 if it matters), after I use the type tool is there any way to go straight from typing to another tool that doesn't have cmd/ctrl/etc as part of its keyboard command? i.e. after I'm done typing something out and I want to select the move tool, hitting "v" obviously types a "v within my text", but I want a way to be able to switch from one to the other. My default for years has been to just select another tool from the toolbar with the mouse, but I've suddenly realized that's very silly when I usually just switch between tools with key commands.

e: Also, is there a way to set Photoshop to handle text in the same way as Illustrator does where you can switch from one text field to another just by clicking on it?

1) Hit enter on the keypad; this confirms/closes text editing, then hit the tool of choice. (Enter => v will close text editing and bring you to 'move')

2) No idear. Can't find anything.

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

mania posted:

Every time I open or create a document in photoshop cs4, the canvas is a fraction of the size it should be, like 100x100px images are displaying at 2% zoom. Bigger images are worse, 3000x3000px images are displaying at 0.2% zoom. I can change the zoom size, but it's getting irritating to do it for every image I open.

Does anyone know how to fix it so that it opens at the proper size? I've tried fiddling around the options and googling, but nothing is turning up so far.

Clear your preferences. May help!

Adobe posted:

To re-create the preferences files for Photoshop, start the application while holding down Ctrl+Alt+Shift (Windows) or Command+Option+Shift (Mac OS). Then, click Yes to the message, "Delete the Adobe Photoshop Settings file?"

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

poo poo, wrong 'small questions' thread. Ignore this.

Yay, drawing!

Travakian fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Aug 19, 2011

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

Behold! A Elk! posted:

I've had a comedy blog for about a month now and I have a solid number of updates. Besides posting once in the goon blog post thread and on my facebook wall where the only people who can see it are my twenty or so friends, how exactly can I market this without being an obnoxious douche. I am not a professional and I am learning to be a better writer as I go. I don't ask for donations on my blog because I think it is unwarranted. Do I just have to hope something goes "viral" so to speak. Or is there a non annoying way to get my content out to more people?

Thanks for any help.

Twitter. Make an account, add folks who have anything to do with comedy (maybe they'll retweet or mention some of your posts!), add people who have 'comedy' or the specific sort of comedy/industry/field you write about as part of their description, add friends of yours and so forth. Add people who are in your town/city/state/province.

You pretty much want to add anyone who has a link to who you are or what you do, with the idea that the basic commonality is enough to spark interest on their end. Just do NOT add hundreds of people at random, because that'll get you nowhere.

Otherwise.. do blog circles still exist? Find one for comedy, add yours to it; maybe that'll generate interest. Ask these friends and followers to Like/+1/Share you on any social network, so all their friends can now discover you, and hopefully pass you on.

Maybe you could post a thread/comment here asking for feedback on it, as a sneaky but valid way to get more views. Maybe.

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

melon cat posted:

An Adobe Photoshop question!

I can't figure out how to do something very specific- I have an existing picture and I want to leave a logo's "imprint" on it. If that doesn't make any sense, I'd like to achieve the same effect as making a company logo an eraser brush so I can "stamp" it on an existing image (ie. make the company logo visible, but without the logo's colors. Just an imprint. Kind of like a cookie-cutter effect).

How would I go about doing this?

One way (of many) to do it:
Assuming the logo has transparency, bring it in as another layer, right-click it in the layer panel and go into 'Blending Options.'

Add in a bevel/emboss (default settings fine), hit 'OK,' then at the top of the layer panel, set fill (not opacity) to 0. This'll leave you with just the emboss effect.

Place the logo where you will, and you'll have a simple watermark going. There are different ways to do it, some better, some worse, but this should do for something simple.

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

Zevo posted:

Seeking some help! Im a cartographer (making maps) working on some research on map reading and design and how different people understand "space".

http://geography.uoregon.edu:50000/...g/quiz/quiz.swf

Im a master's student at the University of Oregon. I need some participants to take this quiz. It involves some personality questions and then some map orientation questions. Should take about 10 minutes.

**Im sorry if this is not a good place for this, Im not trying to poo poo up this thread. I put it in the SAL topic too, but think it applies more to this crowd.

Your link doesn't work! Anywhere! It's abbreviated in the middle (see the ellipsis?)

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

Zevo posted:

Good call. Fixed that! Should work now.

Cool, filled it out. Couple notes for any potential future quizzes:

  • Too much text at the start.. bullet-point that.
  • 'Next' button is so so terribly far away from the radio buttons!
  • Also, some sort of progress bar for it would be nice.

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

nas1234567890 posted:

I guess that makes sense, thanks.
What I'm still baffled about though is that when you see a red ball in real life the shadows don't usually look that blue, what kinds of colors would you use if you're shading something in a normally lit environment, like a sunny day or a decently lit room with standard lamps? Do shadows always have to be a cool color, and do highlights always have to be a warm color? I've heard that you're supposed to use a color that corresponds to the temperature since light is warm and shadows are cool, but under that logic how would you justify blue highlights and red shadows?

I know nothing at all about drawing / colour theory / etc, but--

I imagine it would depend on why the ball is red. If it's a white/whatever ball with a red light in the scene, it would make sense to me that the shadow be more blue than black (as in context the ball and environment would be red, but where the ball blocks it there's an absence of red).

If it's a red ball being lit with a white light, then the shadow would be more black than blue.

Maybe this is nonsense, though. Just a thought.

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008


Cool. Thanks for the info!

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

triplexpac posted:

I also have no idea where to post this, if anyone has a suggestion feel free.

What do professionals use to design DVD menus? I'm interested in giving it a shot, I do DVD cover design for a company and they also need DVD menus done.

So I don't want to make something in iMovie obviously.

Adobe Encore is what first comes to mind. Not sure if there's better/more approachable alternatives, though.

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

Pozzo posted:

Hey I'm looking to create a video to go along with a spoken word piece, and it'll involve smashing and scrolling the text of the piece up on to the screen in various permutations. Almost like a really elaborate and overwrought Powerpoint presentation or something. What would the software to do this be?

Jesus actually putting it into words like that it sounds like a horrible piece of poo poo. Oh well!

Software: After Effects. The broad/general term is motion graphics, or motion design.

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

Pozzo posted:

So now I'm mucking about with After Effects. I made a rectangle move!

Are there any particularly good tutorials or training resources for it? Particularly with regard to using it for Motion Graphics?

For motion, check out Nick Campbell's tutorials. For AE as it pertains to VFX, look into (ugh, hate that I'm saying this) Video Copilot

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

Interstitial Abs posted:

EDIT - I think I may have it. I'm using what GIMP calls the "selection by color tool". Knock out he blu and purple, convert to grey and crank the contrast... sound OK??

You could play with different B&W filters depending on the colour channel-- but honestly, for something like this, if it works it works.

A trite tautology, sure, but if it suits your needs then it's good enough!

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

triplexpac posted:

I really need to update my online portfolio. I don't know how to design websites, but I do have my own domain + hosting plan.

What are some good portfolio solutions for someone in my position? I've been using staceyapp.com , but it's a bit of a pain to update.

What sort of portfolio?

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

triplexpac posted:

Sorry you're right, I should have been more clear!

I do graphic design, so I basically just need something to show images of my print work. Really nothing elaborate is necessary, I'd just like something that is easy to update.

Something like this would be fine, I just don't want to pay for the 4ormat service since I already have my own domain & hosting:

http://electricbugle.4ormat.com/

You can find/buy some pretty decent Wordpress themes that are made for portfolios. I had one made for my motion graphics portfolio as Wordpress offers one of the easiest backends out there as far as managing and updating content. If you have plat I can PM you my url so you can see how non-Wordpressy it can look with a good theme.

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

triplexpac posted:

Does anyone else have problems browsing iStock? Half the time when I search something it won't load the results, or it will only load one page and not let me go to the next.

It's been this way for ages.

Kind of OT, but if you're not specifically having to use iStock, take a look at pond5 as an alternative. Found it's far better on the customer service side, and they seem to keep it well updated / working.

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

triplexpac posted:

So what sites do people use for their portfolios? I'm looking for something simple. I don't mind Cargo, but I'm curious what else is out there.

I do have my own domain + hosting, so I could do something myself. I'm just a print designer, so I don't really want to create a portfolio site from scratch. I could deal with a template I could edit though, I do know some HTML + CSS

I think I've sent you my site before; custom theme on a Wordpress install for ease of use / plugins.

This post popped up recently for good alternative WP themes.

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

triplexpac posted:

Hmm ok maybe I'll skip Moo then! The only reason I was considering them was the possibility of high quality paper with edge colours if the client wants that sort of thing. If they're actually only so-so, it defeats the purpose.

I know you're Toronto-based, so check out Qprint as opposed to heading online as a first stop. Awesome people, haven't every come up with something they couldn't do!

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Travakian
Oct 9, 2008

grimjuk posted:

Greetings, artistic goons. Where would be the best place to find someone to draw a tattoo design I've had in my mind for a while now? I've had a quick look through CC, but didn't see a commission thread.

Find a tattoo artist whose style you like, tell them your design concept, and let them do it. The work will be better as the artist will actually have an investment in the piece instead of being a glorified printer, and you'll get something unique in a style you like. Tattoo artist =/= tattoo machine operator.

If you want to find artist recommendations in your area, take a look in the tattoo megathread or ask for recs there.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply