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I use the patch tool when retouching areas with very little to no texture. I prefer to use the healing brush. Create a new layer and set the tool to sample all layers then paint away. When done covering all the retouching in a specific area I crank the opacity down until it looks natural. I almost never use the clone tool on skin. I don't like the high gloss plastic look that is so popular, this method allows you to soften skin flaws but retain a natural look. A really good (at east I think it is) book on basic retouching and color correcting people is Skin by Lee Varis.
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Jan 18, 2009 10:37
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| # ¿ May 3, 2024 01:02 |
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I hate getting prints at my local walmarts. I have had proofs done there when I need stuff quickly and cheaply but they always gently caress up black and white. There is always a pink or green cast to the image. What can you expect for three dollar 8X10s.
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Feb 17, 2009 07:35
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I use alot of presets in lightroom. Usually as a starting point to what I'm looking to do. You have to be careful with a lot of the B&W ones that simulate color filters because you can cause some posterization at the edges of things that in not noticeable unless you zoom in to 100%. That and a lot of the color ones crank up the luminance noise reduction too much to smooth things out. LR's noise reduction is better in 2.0 but still not as good as noise ninja.
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Feb 26, 2009 06:52
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evensevenone posted:Don't use the individual R G and B curves, just use the combined curve. If you use the individual channel curves you need to make microscopic adjustments (and these probably aren't the best tools for color editing since its so hard to do anything useful). The individual RGB curves and the info panel are the best way to color correct skin tones. I learned how from the Lee Varis book 'Skin' it is actually pretty easy with some practice.
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Mar 19, 2009 21:04
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I always retouch skin manually on a separate blank layer. Then I adjust the opacity of the layer to let some detail back into the retouched areas. This avoids the plastic look that I hate.
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Mar 31, 2009 12:29
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I'm down.
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Jul 6, 2009 22:41
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poopinmymouth posted:I really want to submit some of my portrait shots, but despite owning copyright to the works, I kind of feel bad distributing these people's likenesses all over the web when they volunteered for free. I dunno. I wouldn't have a problem, but some of them might feel creeped out. How about we all agree that portraits don't leave this thread. That way we can post photos of people without worrying where the final versions end up. Oh and when are we doing this and did we decide how to get the raw files on here?
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Jul 10, 2009 08:58
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TheAngryDrunk posted:Is there a way to collapse a mask into one step in an images history. I'm working with an image and the mask I'm making is chewing up all kinds of memory. I don't need to keep every single step of the mask! Make a snapshot before the mask and after it is applied. Then you can purge the history if you want.
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Jul 28, 2010 23:15
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Phanatic posted:Except when new cameras come out with new RAW formats and you need to upgrade to CS12 for it to be able to read them. Adobe puts out a free RAW to DNG converter so you can just convert it to a raw format that an older version can read. Not ideal by any means but better than nothing.
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Nov 19, 2012 17:04
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Paragon8 posted:You can lease it monthly but it's kind of a sucker's deal as you'll end up paying more than you would outright but it's less of an initial lump sum? Usually you would be right about leasing but subscribing to creative cloud costs me $22 a month and buying CS6 would run me $550-600 on Amazon. So I will actually pay less than retail over a two year period. That takes into account me not being eligible for student pricing and it taking two years for a new version to come out. The way I look at it I could shell out $600 every time there is a new version or just subscribe and always have the latest PS.
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Dec 21, 2012 06:06
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Molten Llama posted:Why would you shell out $600 every time? Upgrades are $199 assuming you're completely uninvolved in the photo or graphic arts communities. (Every association has a discount code that brings them down to $169.) I actually forgot there was an upgrade price, but yeah I actually don't belong to any communities except this one. Still the price difference isn't extravagant so I don't mind making a monthly automatic payment of $22. I also kind of look at it as paying Adobe back for all the years I used a not so legal copy.
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Dec 22, 2012 10:09
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I haven't messed with LR in a while but couldn't you just put all those folders into one master folder and point LR at that, or does it not do subfolders that way?
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Dec 22, 2012 21:15
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All autocorrect buttons on anything are someone else's idea of what your photo should look like, which is probably bad.
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Dec 30, 2012 13:10
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InternetJunky posted:This feels like another question that has an obvious answer but I can't figure it out. I have a sequence of images and I want to ensure exact same crop size for all of them (ie. 500 x 500 pixels exactly). I tried the "size & resolution" option of the crop tool and specified 500x500, but all that does is resize the cropped area to 500x500 after cropping. What am I missing? Sounds like you are putting your resolution into the size box. I remember PS having a resolution box or something like that but couldn't find it in the CS6 crop tool. The easiest way to do this would be crop square by setting your tool to 1x1 and then running an action on the folder that resizes everything to 500x500. Fake edit: Unless you are using LR then do what that other guys said. (I totally forgot about LR)
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Jan 29, 2013 09:18
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