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RedReverend posted:There are legal ways around using a licensed electrician. Most jurisdictions allow the homeowner to do his/her own electrical. So, if you are really into saving money by not hiring licensed electrician, Which you should do BTW, then basically, "you" get the permit and "you" do the work with help from your buddy. Do you get what I'm saying here? That's what I was thinking. I'm all for saving a buck where I can (since this remodel is killer!), but I think fire prevention should be near the top of my list for the house I just bought. I'm not willing to stretch the truth when it comes to covering my rear end, fortunately! This guy has a friend who is licensed and is willing to do the work, I'm going to see what he gives me as a price and move forward. Can anyone here give me a ballpark on what to expect in terms of cost? I'm expecting a couple hundred dollars, but am not really sure. Here's what I know if it helps: The current stove breaker is 50 amps, the new stove is 40 amp min so it should be fine for the upgrade. I believe there are 3 wires running to the current hard-wired stove (this stove is from the 1960s), so I'm not sure if code or anything requires a 4th wire (I've seen 3 and 4-wire setups... I don't really know code). My new stove will take a 3-wire cord or 4-wire, so hopefully there's no rewiring to do and just a simple extension. Doesn't seem that difficult, but nothing does until you start!
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Jun 2, 2009 01:59
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NEC 250.140 allows you to stick with the 3 wire when you replace your range. You can either pull the old whip off of the older range or buy a new one. You are permitted to use the grounded neutral as an equipment grounding conductor and I believe that the range should come with a little jumper that goes from your neutral connection to the ground screw.
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Jun 2, 2009 02:22
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In our living room, we have a ceiling fan/light fixture controlled by one switch. So, a single pole setup. The dimmer switch has always controlled only the light and the fan could be turned on by pull chain on the fixture. Recently, (the house was built in '88) the dimmer switch stopped working. The light would still work, but the switch was stuck and not easily fixable. We decided to replace it, got the stuff, and gave it a shot. The new dimmer switch (single pole, too) has two black wires and a green wire coming from it. The old switch has one black wire and one red wire coming from it. I followed the instructions on the new switch and when I turned it on, only the ceiling fan came on. The light wouldn't turn on at all. I thought it was funny since I had no idea the fan was even wired to be controlled from that wall switch. I drew the wall and switch setup since this situation has baffled the 3 people I know who know anything about electrical stuff, including the person who wired our fan/light fixture.  There are two thin wires I left out and the white wires were not connected to anything on the original switch (just each other), so I left those alone. I used the red wire as the ground since it was used as the ground on the original switch. Someone I asked about this suggested I switch the black wires around to see if there was a configuration of them that worked. I tried that and either nothing would turn on or just the fan again. Right now, all of the black wires are connected (pigtailed, there aren't screw connections on the new or the old switch) and the fan is no longer controlled by the dimmer switch (didn't seem like a good idea) but can be turned on by pull chain. The light will not work at all. So, either I connected something wrong, the light is just broken, or my house was wired by Urkel. There's also a 3-way switch in another room we wanted to replace, but after this mess, I'm thinking getting someone else to do it would be awesome. With that setup, there's two dimmers upstairs and a switch that controls one of those dimmers downstairs.
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Jun 2, 2009 21:55
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Here is what you need to do. You've got the red and black wires going out of the top of your box, those go to the fan and the light. Find the one that goes to the light. You can do this by connecting each one, one at a time, to the main hot coming from your panel. Once you figure out which wire is which then do the following: 1. Pigtail the wire that goes to the light to one of the dimmer wires. 2. Pigtail your hot to both the second dimmer wire as well as the fan wire. 3. This will make it so that the fan is always powered and you can turn it on and off at the chain, and will make the light controlled by the dimmer. 4. The green ground wire should be pigtailed to your bare grounding conductor, if one is available. Or if you've got metal boxes that are grounded connect with a grounding screw or clip. edit: Disregard this diagram and use second one below. RedReverend fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Jun 2, 2009 |
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Jun 2, 2009 23:43
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Whoops wrong one. This is the correct way to wire it.
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Jun 2, 2009 23:44
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RedReverend posted:Whoops wrong one. This is the correct way to wire it. I suspect red goes to the light and black goes to the fan. Black from the bottom to black on the switch. Black on the switch to red. Black on the bottom to black on the top. See if that works.
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Jun 3, 2009 02:19
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I'm having trouble with an outside pole-mounted light fixture on a circuit with an outside GFCI plug. Last summer I built an interlock entrance to the house and while excavating for the crushed stone base (I wanted to make sure it was solid so I went 18" below grade) I unearthed pvc conduit running from the house to the outside lamp. The problem was, the conduit was cracked at one point, exposing the cable inside. I was afraid that left like this, the compaction of the crushed stone could possibly cut the insulation, so I decided to fix the conduit. I cut the wire so as to install a pvc junction box for wet locations and spliced the wires in the box. Now, almost one year later, the GFCI on the circuit trips. Today, I tried to diagnose the problem. I first disconnected the run to the lamp from the GFCI. When I turned the power back on, I reset the GFCI and all was good. This lead me to believe that the fault is somewhere between the connection to the outlet and the lamp itself. Next, I disconnected the photovoltaic cell from the lamp run and reconnected the run to the GFCI. It tripped again when turning on the power. Finally, I took out the lamp itself. When I turned the breaker back on, another trip occurred. Thus, I concluded that there's a short somewhere in the wire between the GFCI and lamp. I took an ohm-meter and measured resistance between hot-neutral, hot-ground, and neutral-ground at both ends of the wire. The meter showed no continuity. This left me confused. Do you guys have any ideas on what's going on? The last thing I want to do, obviously, is take apart the interlock and excavate the crushed stone and redo the conduit entirely. I definitely don't want to do this now because I don't even have conclusive evidence that it's the problem.
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Jun 25, 2009 17:32
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Could we get a diagram of your circuit?
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Jun 25, 2009 17:50
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Have you tried plugging anything else into the GFCI to see if that trips it too? Or running your lamp plug (with an extension cord or something) into another GFCI to see if it trips that one? Something similar happened to a garage GFCI of mine and the solution was receptacle replacement. I didn't have an underground line coming from it or anything, it just started tripping every time I fired up my miter saw, drill, or anything else that I plugged into it.
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Jun 25, 2009 20:55
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Any tips or things to look out for on this kitchen pot light to socket change? I have a single pot light wired to a switch that I plan to change into a 2-gang box with 4 outlets in the ceiling. The plugs are for low voltage cabinet lights that will be installed in my new ceiling upper cabinets. Now I intent to cut open the ceiling and take out the fixture and then add in a double gang box for the plugs. I forget which way I should wire up the plugs, are all the neutral wires twisted together in the box and the hot wires daisy chained through each item? I plan to look this up, but any tips would be helpful. How big of a hole should I put in the top cabinet for access to the outlets? Should it be just wide enough for the 4 outlets to be visible or something bigger?
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Jun 25, 2009 21:00
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Ahz posted:Any tips or things to look out for on this kitchen pot light to socket change? Cut a 4" square hole in the cabinet top and use a box extension ring to make your devices mount flush with the top of the cabinet, then just use a normal faceplate. Each receptacle should have three wires coming off of it and all the wires get connected together in the box. No daisy chains, please. It makes things so very annoying when they eventually fail. Since you're going to have a full 4" square box with extension ring, there's no reason not to have 8" of wire on each receptacle. As long as it all mashes into the box, you're fine; it is also especially annoying to have to replace a failed device and have BARELY enough wire left over to pull the thing forward enough to get to the screws. Code says 6" of wire from the entry point or 3" past the front of the box, whichever is more; our local code says 6" past the front of the box, which is good. Make sure to ground the box if you're using a metallic box (probably not).
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Jun 27, 2009 03:58
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Dexter_Sinister posted:I'm having trouble with an outside pole-mounted light fixture on a circuit with an outside GFCI plug. Your conduit and splice box are full of water. Underground conduit always gets full of water. Dig up the junction box, install some direct burial splices, rebury the box. You could also dig up the box, drain and dry it, fill all conduit entries with approved potting compound (RTV, silicone, etc), then close it back up. Ideally, you'd dig up the box, repair the pipe, and repull the wire to have a continuous run. Insulation doesn't care AT ALL about water, but splices do.
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Jun 27, 2009 04:01
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Your conduit and splice box are full of water. Underground conduit always gets full of water. Dig up the junction box, install some direct burial splices, rebury the box. You could also dig up the box, drain and dry it, fill all conduit entries with approved potting compound (RTV, silicone, etc), then close it back up. Ideally, you'd dig up the box, repair the pipe, and repull the wire to have a continuous run. Insulation doesn't care AT ALL about water, but splices do. You're right. I rechecked the run from the outlet to the lamp with a multimeter set to 2000k ohm and found that hot shorts to ground. I guess I'm going to have to dig the entire bastard up and just do what I should have done originally - pull one, uninterrupted run of UF from GFCI to lamp (can't do this without digging because of the marrettes - I already tried). Hell, this way if something happens in the future, I don't have to do any digging, just pull another wire through the conduit. Oh well, I guess this gives me an excuse to modify the design of the entry steps, which, once I finished the project, didn't like.
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Jun 27, 2009 14:27
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Your conduit and splice box are full of water. Underground conduit always gets full of water. Dig up the junction box, install some direct burial splices, rebury the box. You could also dig up the box, drain and dry it, fill all conduit entries with approved potting compound (RTV, silicone, etc), then close it back up. Ideally, you'd dig up the box, repair the pipe, and repull the wire to have a continuous run. Insulation doesn't care AT ALL about water, but splices do. I've never run into a buried jbox before, but I don't think that it's allowed. They should be accessible at all times. So shouldn't he just go ahead and remove the box and just run new wire so there is no need for a splice?
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Jun 28, 2009 02:34
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Quick question; does anyone here know if you are allowed to do an entire panel swap-out by yourself in Minnesota? I know we're allowed to do pretty much everything else in a residence, but I've read conflicting reports online as to whether replacing your main panel is allowed or not. My mom just bought a cabin by Itasca state park, and I want to upgrade from a 100 amp panel to a 200 amp, mainly so we can install a tankless water heater. I know what all is involved, and I believe I am up to the task, I just want to know whether or not I can actually do it legally.
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Jun 29, 2009 14:42
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Cut a 4" square hole in the cabinet top and use a box extension ring to make your devices mount flush with the top of the cabinet, then just use a normal faceplate. Thanks! The box is up, grounded and working! Luckily I was able to junction directly off of the potlight's junction box and not even have to open up my walls except where I cut out the box hole and screwed it to the joist.
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Jun 29, 2009 15:22
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I have this going from my house's 200 amp panel to my garage: (underground) I did the muscular part (digging the trench and the 3in hole in my garage's concrete floor) now comes the part I need help with. I'd like to wire all this up for 240v @ 60 amp (I might have a 240v compressor eventually but I wont be running much machinery of this, is 60 amp too much for lighting, a few electrical outlets and the compressor?) How should I wire this up on the panels?
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Jul 13, 2009 04:06
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Well I'm preparing to get a permit for this, hoping to have some help.. Here's how I plan to install this; 100amp breaker (it can do 240v since it's a double pole) @ the house panel, (Why don't they make 70 amp breakers to match their 70amp panels?) 70amp panel (8 slots) in the garage For now I'll only drop 2 15 amp breakers (1 for external light, 1 for internal lights) 2 20 amp breakers (one for each sides of the garage's wall electrical outlets) into it, but I will have room to add the breaker needed for a compressor etc. How's this sounding to you guys?
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Jul 13, 2009 18:47
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Dumb question, but anything that can burn down my house scares me! Our old doorbell died, so I am replacing it. The old doorbell was wired, the new one is wireless. What do I do with the now "free" wires sticking out of the wall (inside) and off the frame of the door (outside)? Thanks for any help
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Jul 15, 2009 02:23
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I suppose it's too late to recommend replacing your doorbell with another wired vice wireless, huh? The wires are low voltage, so it's not terribly dangerous, but they still shouldn't be hanging there entergized. So, find the doorbell transformer on the other end of those wires, and disconnect it. Easy  I wouldn't rip any of it out; that way, you (or the next owner/tenant) can put in a wired doorbell back in down the road when the wireless one dies.IsaacNewton posted:Well I'm preparing to get a permit for this, hoping to have some help.. grover fucked around with this message at 03:04 on Jul 15, 2009 |
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Jul 15, 2009 02:46
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Mthrboard posted:Quick question; does anyone here know if you are allowed to do an entire panel swap-out by yourself in Minnesota? I know we're allowed to do pretty much everything else in a residence, but I've read conflicting reports online as to whether replacing your main panel is allowed or not. My mom just bought a cabin by Itasca state park, and I want to upgrade from a 100 amp panel to a 200 amp, mainly so we can install a tankless water heater. I know what all is involved, and I believe I am up to the task, I just want to know whether or not I can actually do it legally. You'd have to go to your local building department to find out. They may require your mother to pull the permit unless your name is on the deed. You definitely need to pull a permit so you can get a cut-in card for the utility company. They need to check the feeder cables and/or transformer to make sure it's fine for a 200A service. IsaacNewton posted:I have this going from my house's 200 amp panel to my garage: (underground) Red and black are the two hots, the white is the neutral, and the green is the ground. I don't think direct burial comes in anything smaller than #6, so you're fine with a 60A breaker. There should be some writing on the outer insulation assuming it has not rubbed off that will tell you exactly what it is. IsaacNewton posted:Well I'm preparing to get a permit for this, hoping to have some help.. As grover said, you cannot feed a 70A subpanel with a 100A breaker. I'd recommend this instead. Type QO breakers are incredibly common.
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Jul 15, 2009 03:43
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GreenTrench posted:YAs grover said, you cannot feed a 70A subpanel with a 100A breaker. I'd recommend this instead. Type QO breakers are incredibly common. When you go to home depot, don't get the Square-D homeline; they're crappily made. The QO or Siemens panels are much better for only marginally more.
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Jul 15, 2009 11:56
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Thanks guys, appreciate the help. babyeatingpsychopath, is this what you refer to? My house is equipped in Federal (pretty much brand new install), so I figured I'd match the garage. I found this while trying to find a wiring diagram, this looks right to you guys?  Edit: Added some question; Can I mount the panel on particle boards or is plywood the only way to go? Should the wire be covered in the garage, since it's so large (the wire would be exposed about 4 feet coming from the ground otherwise)? IsaacNewton fucked around with this message at 15:52 on Jul 15, 2009 |
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Jul 15, 2009 15:44
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IsaacNewton posted:Thanks guys, appreciate the help. You can mount the panel to whatever you want, there's no code that says plywood or particle board, it just has to be suitable. I flush-mounted my garage panel between two studs. Just make sure you have something to staple to, as you need to secure all those cables within 12" of the panel. BTW, you'll need #4-3 w/#8 ground for a 70A panel, or #1-3 w/ #8 ground if it's a 100A panel. Larger is OK. If it's a long run, you might need to go larger for voltage drop anyway.
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Jul 15, 2009 21:03
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It's a detached garage, my panels are 10 feet away from each other. Can the grounding rod be exposed to the element? I will save myself a lot of work if I don't have to make another hole in the garage's concrete floor. My cable is 4x3ga
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Jul 15, 2009 21:08
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IsaacNewton posted:Can the grounding rod be exposed to the element? Uhh, the very name for that object should answer your question... In other words, yes, you can put the grounding rod outside. Just make sure it's at least 6' away from any other grounding rod.
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Jul 15, 2009 22:09
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kid sinister posted:Uhh, the very name for that object should answer your question How so? I'm concerned about the bare copper wire corroding away in the rain.
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Jul 15, 2009 22:11
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IsaacNewton posted:How so? I'm concerned about the bare copper wire corroding away in the rain. Copper doesn't behave like iron/steel when it oxidizes, it's actually pretty stable once it does. The Statue of Liberty is still there, and she's been exposed to the elements for 123 years now.
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Jul 15, 2009 22:25
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Well this thread saved me from burning my garage down! Thanks again.
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Jul 16, 2009 00:15
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Great thread, learned a lot. I'm buying my first house, closing in a couple weeks, and I'm looking at potential projects that need to be done and things I'd like to do for the future. House was built in 2002, 3 bedroom 2 full bath with attached 2 car garage and attic space giving access to the whole house. Slab foundation so no basement or crawlspace. GFI outlets: I understand these to be like #1 on a chain so if something surges or whatever it will pop it thus saving everything down the line? Should there be more than one in a house my size? My home inspector seemed to think there would just be one in the house. I saw someone mention earlier they are just used around water and such, so the only outlets aligned with it would be the bathrooms, kitchen, and garage? How can I tell exactly which outlets are on it? Just do the test button and see which outlets don't work? If I were to do anything panel related, do I need to contact my electric company to shut off service to the house to make it safe? Or is there some switch between my panel and the source from the pole/meter/wherever that I can operate myself? I'm looking at building up the patio area with a short brick wall with some switch powered low wattage lights every x feet. I already have an outside light attached to the house with a switch but it's of course higher up. Can I just connect a line up to that and run it down the wall and have it pop out lower to the ground so that I can run it inside the brick and wire the lights? What considerations would I have to watch for when adding them on? Total amps on the circuit?
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Jul 21, 2009 05:09
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ChesterJT posted:GFI outlets: I understand these to be like #1 on a chain so if something surges or whatever it will pop it thus saving everything down the line? Should there be more than one in a house my size? My home inspector seemed to think there would just be one in the house. I saw someone mention earlier they are just used around water and such, so the only outlets aligned with it would be the bathrooms, kitchen, and garage? How can I tell exactly which outlets are on it? Just do the test button and see which outlets don't work? The purpose of GFCIs is to protect the user and immediately connected devices from electrical surges. Their most common usage is in wet areas to protect against shorts caused by liquids, i.e. in the bathroom, kitchen, garage, washer/dryer, etc. As such, you need at least one on every circuit in a wet area that has receptacles. One GFCI can protect several other devices daisy chained off of it, which is nice because GFCIs cost ~$10 apiece while an outlet costs ~50 cents. Replacing every single outlet in a wet area with a GFCI would get expensive real quick... You got the right idea for finding daisy chained outlets.
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Jul 21, 2009 05:52
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ChesterJT posted:GFI outlets: I understand these to be like #1 on a chain so if something surges or whatever it will pop it thus saving everything down the line? Should there be more than one in a house my size? My home inspector seemed to think there would just be one in the house. I saw someone mention earlier they are just used around water and such, so the only outlets aligned with it would be the bathrooms, kitchen, and garage? How can I tell exactly which outlets are on it? Just do the test button and see which outlets don't work? ChesterJT posted:If I were to do anything panel related, do I need to contact my electric company to shut off service to the house to make it safe? Or is there some switch between my panel and the source from the pole/meter/wherever that I can operate myself? ChesterJT posted:I'm looking at building up the patio area with a short brick wall with some switch powered low wattage lights every x feet. I already have an outside light attached to the house with a switch but it's of course higher up. Can I just connect a line up to that and run it down the wall and have it pop out lower to the ground so that I can run it inside the brick and wire the lights? What considerations would I have to watch for when adding them on? Total amps on the circuit?
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Jul 21, 2009 10:39
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I have an old bathroom that I'm going to replace the vanity (which also doubles as the light for the room and has the only outlet), add a GFCI outlet in the wall and a light fixture above the mirror. I'd also like to add a ceiling fan (currently there isn't one). The house is a ranch, so I have access to the attic above the bathroom, and should be able to find a place for the exhaust vent pretty easily. I think I want to do a three way switch so the light and fan can be operated independently. So I will add a wire from the switch to the fan. The downside of this is that the outlet will only work when the light switch is turned on, but to remedy this would be a lot more work (I think) so I think it's not worth it. I have help from my dad who has done this kind of wiring before, but is this something that one would typically need any kind of permit for? I don't need conduit or anything like this for the wire to the fan, do I? Anything else I should look out for?
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Jul 23, 2009 19:25
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bgack posted:I have an old bathroom that I'm going to replace the vanity (which also doubles as the light for the room and has the only outlet), add a GFCI outlet in the wall and a light fixture above the mirror. I'd also like to add a ceiling fan (currently there isn't one). The house is a ranch, so I have access to the attic above the bathroom, and should be able to find a place for the exhaust vent pretty easily. I don't know about permits in your locale; usually they have a minimum dollar amount before a permit is required, but you can get one for any project if you'd like the piece of mind that comes from having an inspector look at it and say "you did a really good job." If you're pulling new wire up to the fan, you might as well go all the way and pull new wire to your outlet/vanity and have an outlet that's always on. Some GFCIs can get finicky about their power going on and off. Depending on what breaker is in your panel, get a 50' roll of 12/3 or 14/3. 12/3 if you have a 20 amp breaker, 14/3 if there's a 15 amp. 12/3 has four conductors in it: Black, Red, White, and bare for ground. Get two switches; a "3-way" almost certainly isn't what you want here. After turning off the appropriate breaker, connect the black wire from the panel to the top screw of each switch. Run cable from one switch to the fan; connect the red wire in that to the bottom screw of a switch; white to white, bare to bare. In the fan, white to white, bare to bare/green, red to whatever's left. Note that the black wire is unused, trim it flush with the cable jacket inside your switch box and fan. Going to the vanity, black goes to black, red goes to the bottom screw of the other switch, white to white, bare to bare. In the vanity, red goes to the light, black goes to the black from your outlet cable, white to white, bare to bare/green. The red wire in the cable from the vanity to the outlet is unused, so trim it flush with the jacket. Most electricians will have 12/2 and 12/3 for a run like this, but buying two 25' rolls (one of 12/2 and one of 12/3) is probably going to be more expensive than one 50' roll of 12/3. Inside your attic, any wires that cross joists must go through holes bored at least 1 1/4" away from the top of the joist. Most people use a 7/8" hole for a couple runs of Romex; anything in the 3/4 to 1" range should be fine (depending on what you have).
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Jul 24, 2009 02:00
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:If you're pulling new wire up to the fan, you might as well go all the way and pull new wire to your outlet/vanity and have an outlet that's always on. Some GFCIs can get finicky about their power going on and off. thanks bep, this is helpful info. I'm not sure I follow the 'as long as you are pulling wire up to the fan' with wiring the outlet to always be on. I guess I will see how it's wired when I demo the old vanity, but I think the only wire running to the old vanity is coming from the switch. So I'd have to run a separate hot wire down (or up?) to the new outlet. I didn't know GFCI outlets could be finicky with on/off power but obviously I'd rather have it be on all the time.
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Jul 24, 2009 17:00
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bgack posted:thanks bep, this is helpful info. I'm not sure I follow the 'as long as you are pulling wire up to the fan' with wiring the outlet to always be on. I guess I will see how it's wired when I demo the old vanity, but I think the only wire running to the old vanity is coming from the switch. So I'd have to run a separate hot wire down (or up?) to the new outlet. I didn't know GFCI outlets could be finicky with on/off power but obviously I'd rather have it be on all the time. In ranch-style houses, almost everything is run through the walls. If there's not an existing exhaust fan, you're going to have to pull wire to it to get it to work. Since you're already in the attic with a spool of wire, it doesn't make any sense NOT to do the project as you want it, instead of having to compromise JUST to use somebody else's questionable wiring. Just leave the wire abandoned in the wall; it'll be fine there as long as it's not hooked up on either end.
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Jul 24, 2009 17:06
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bgack posted:thanks bep, this is helpful info. I'm not sure I follow the 'as long as you are pulling wire up to the fan' with wiring the outlet to always be on. I guess I will see how it's wired when I demo the old vanity, but I think the only wire running to the old vanity is coming from the switch. So I'd have to run a separate hot wire down (or up?) to the new outlet. I didn't know GFCI outlets could be finicky with on/off power but obviously I'd rather have it be on all the time. Thing is, you are going to rewire the switch anyway, why not do the outlet right? It won't take any additional effort, it is just a matter of where you tie in the outlet. After all, you will have a hot and neutral coming into the switch, so just tie in the outlet there and be done with it.
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Jul 24, 2009 21:24
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Hello, me again with questions regarding wiring up my garage. (still) I have a Federal 64 slots 200 amp panel in my house. (I wish I had the 40 since 64 is way too many but I disgress) It's mounted upside down to allow for the counter outside and such. Two questions; Is It okay to bring in any more wire from the bottom (normally the top) with connectors and all or is that forbidden? Is the metal part protecting the naughty bits (the mains) required by code? Can I leave the shield out If the first question is 'yes' and I have wire going through there? In the best of worlds I'd have enough wire to go through the hole at the top (which is normally the bottom.. sigh) but I'm 4 feet short. Hopefully the solution isn't the pull that wire out and feed a new one.  P.S.: This is a lot like my panel, mine is just denser.
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Jul 27, 2009 18:31
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IsaacNewton posted:Hello, me again with questions regarding wiring up my garage. (still) If there are still available knockouts on the bottom, it should be fine to punch another one out and feed a wire in from the bottom. The "metal part protecting the naughty bits" is called the deadfront, because if you remove it and touch something, you're dead. US Code says you have to have that installed, Canadian code probably does as well.
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Jul 28, 2009 01:10
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:I don't know about Federal in Canada, but Federal Pacific in the US is electrician-speak for "house-consuming electrical fire deathtrap in a box." babyeatingpsychopath posted:If there are still available knockouts on the bottom, it should be fine to punch another one out and feed a wire in from the bottom. The "metal part protecting the naughty bits" is called the deadfront, because if you remove it and touch something, you're dead. US Code says you have to have that installed, Canadian code probably does as well. There's 3 free knockout big enough to pass my 1" 1/2 wire through. My problem is the dead front doesn't give a whole lot of room to have wire go past it, and the wires might be touching a sharp edge of the dead front.
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Jul 28, 2009 16:22
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