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movax posted:Amazon has become a domestic Alibaba... my first order of Wagos, I did get from Amazon and used in a few places. The box looked 'right' and they passed my sniff test. Past that, I have been sourcing them from the local electrical supply house (Platt) and tossing into a Packout until I need them. Same. I don't think anyone is counterfeiting the 221's yet, but that's a big gamble to take ordering them from Amazon. I've ordered all my subsequent boxes from SupplyHouse.com. Home Depot also sells them now, but doesn't have the full product selection last I checked.
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Jul 10, 2023 03:57
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Yeah Zinsco are definitely better than Stab Locs but I've heard they have arcing problems and you'll never know until you replace it or your house catches on fire. I'd probably rank it pretty high on the list to get to. ElectricianU on YouTube did a video at his house and when he removed his old Zinsco breakers he discovered evidence of arcing under one of them. At 18:40 in this video. https://youtu.be/5YNLC80clS8
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Jul 22, 2023 00:24
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Motronic posted:Yes: I've got Square D Homeline and it's not awful! (I would have definitely paid for the upgrade to QO had I known or been made aware of the difference when I paid for a panel replacement though)
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Jul 25, 2023 04:18
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Could be that the PO took those pricey GFCI outlets with him when he moved. I have a friend who's PO took even the light bulbs on his way out.
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Aug 14, 2023 18:20
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I can never post pictures of my breaker panel in this thread now
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Sep 12, 2023 00:27
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Blackbeer posted:334.80 in the 2020 code (though the rule has been there for years):
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Sep 14, 2023 19:48
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Look closely at the ants and check if they are carpenter ants. You might have ants in your walls.
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Oct 1, 2023 00:46
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Cat Face Joe posted:I've got a plug and it's got a UPS plugged in it and in that UPS is my tv, computer, pad charger, and occasionally a printer. The computer was built in probably 2014/15. When running some games, the UPS will begin to beep and eventually shut down taking the computer and tv with it. This is when anything graphically "heavy" is happening and can sometimes be mitigated by looking away from whatever is causing it or lowering the graphics settings. No other plug in the house has done something like this. We've had a portable air conditioner running with no issues. The house was built in 1945 and at some point was upgraded to grounded outlets. Where should I begin with this? That's not the plug it's the UPS. UPS's are rated for a certain output wattage and when your PC is drawing a ton of power it's exceeding the limit of the UPS. Since the PC hasn't been upgraded recently, it could be you plugged in something else recently, or it might could be that the UPS's internal battery is dying from age and causing the max wattage to be lower. I had the exact same thing happen with my PC and UPS.
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Oct 11, 2023 03:38
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Most UPS batteries can be replaced too, and they're not that expensive. So before chucking it in the trash, Google it and see if it's serviceable.
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Oct 11, 2023 15:23
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Shifty Pony posted:A UPS should only kick over to the battery when it detects that the voltage has gone out of standard range though, so a bad battery by itself shouldn't cause the symptoms they are having. Some UPS are wired up to use the battery for normal operation. I believe it's to reduce/remove switching time when the power fails. My friend just had his UPS battery fail and now the battery backed up side of his UPS won't power anything, regardless. The surge protected side is fine though.
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Oct 11, 2023 15:39
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What brand and model is the UPS?
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Oct 11, 2023 22:56
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I picked up an open box Predator Inverter 8750 and installed a trifuel kit so I can run it off propane or my homes NG. It should be enough to power my whole house even during the summer with the AC on. My only complaint is it's fairly loud, so I'm building a collapsible "quiet box" for it to try and muffle it a bit. Obviously it won't be super effective because it has to have a lot of ventilation, but even a little bit of sound deadening and redirection I think will go a long way.
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Oct 24, 2023 17:19
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dweepus posted:It's just a small portable gasoline generator, so I'd imagine it's not built for conversion? Post your generator make and model. There's probably a conversion kit available.
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Nov 23, 2023 22:10
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dweepus posted:Generator is a Firman W2000i. Well dang, I'm surprised but there's not a ready-made propane conversion kit available for it that I can find.
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Nov 24, 2023 03:46
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HolHorsejob posted:Are wagos a good drop-in sub for wirenuts when fixing a kitchen appliance? I just redid the electrical cable on a 50 year old vitamix, and I didn't have wirenuts, so I just yoloed it with waygos. If the gauge of the wire is within the WAGO's specifications it should be fine.
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Jan 2, 2024 04:30
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right arm posted:bought a generator. plumbing it for NG and wiring a 50amp inlet for it this weekend Hell yeah. Which generator did you go with?
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Jan 3, 2024 23:32
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I added a switch above my furnace when I ran a new wire to it. It's nice to be confident it's off when you have the side off for maintenance
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Jan 20, 2024 00:48
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I was helping my brother out at his house with some hosed up wiring and when I popped open his GE panel I saw this, among other things. Was this to code back in the late 70's?  I should also mention the stuff I was there to fix. A PO had previously build out some lovely closet in the garage which was taking up a large amount of space and not useful at all, so he wanted to rip it out. It's purely superficial walls came down easily, except the PO had also added some wiring over the years and instead of running it up the wall cavity with the panel, had just kind of strung it loosely around the inside of the closet and then stabbed holes in the ceiling to run it up into the attic and to the rest of the house. Wiring must have been cheap back in the day because the majority of it was 10 gauge. Including a huge strand of 10/3 being used for a single 120v 20amp circuit. It's also worth pointing out that they used the wrong brand of breaker for this circuit, and instead of actually screwing the 10 gauge conductor into the breaker, they just wedged it between the screw and the housing of the breaker   I wish I had thought to get a picture of the one junction box where 5 different 10 gauge wires were nutted together. I don't think box fill was ever a concern for the PO. I ran the circuits through the wall cavity properly, and set him up with proper breakers that are AFCI/GFCI protected. The mystery 10/3 wire circuit keeps tripping the GFCI. I followed it to a floating junction box deep within the attic that has 4 more wires coming out of it, but I couldn't get to it without building out a crawl way. I suspect the neutrals are crossed with another circuit, and the GFCI doesn't like that. We didn't have time to do all that so we're just going to leave it off, but we don't know what it powers, so we went to every outlet, light, and appliance we could find and tested them and nothing seems to be off. So god knows what that junction box is even doing. SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 16:04 on Apr 15, 2024 |
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Apr 15, 2024 15:54
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Explosionface posted:First picture seems fine to me, other than some lazy pushing wires through too far on the neutral bar. This has already all been taken care of. My concern in the first picture is the like 15 ground wires all being shoved into one big lug.
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Apr 15, 2024 16:48
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Motronic posted:That's "fine". I don't know if it was to code and under what code, but it's very common. Spend $6 on a new ground bar and re-wire if it bothers you. I wouldn't unless I was doing extensive amounts of other work in the panel. That was my thinking. Everything was nice and tight and it's obviously been fine for 50+ years so I didn't touch that at all. Just curious if that was code/common back in the day.
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Apr 15, 2024 17:22
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H110Hawk posted:I don't know if this is an optical illusion or what but this looks like a jiggle away from contact. I know it's been fine for 50 years or whatever and none of those wires are touched or easy to move but whew boy. That's the neutral lug so it is actually very important that they are touching! 
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Apr 16, 2024 04:43
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FuzzySlippers posted:So I had 3 outlets in my preexisting half finished garage and working on finishing I discovered the one finished outlet was on its own 20 amp circuit (perfect for adding the additional outlets I had planned), but the other two outlets on the unfinished side were connected to another 20 amp circuit connected to a bunch of random outlets across the house. Currently those two outlets power the garage door opener and slow charge our electric car (I'm in no rush to add a proper car charger outlet since in 4 years of ownership charging overnight has always been fine). They never trip or have issues. I think I'd prefer to have everything on the dedicated 20 amp garage circuit. The EV charger specifically I would like to be, because while it's not tripping anything now, in the future you might change what loads are on the inside of the house and have a problem. If everything in the garage is on the garage circuit, it makes it easier to manage and be aware of the load on the circuit. Plus I bet you're unlikely to be charging the car and also be using heavy power tools, and if you are, it would be easy to unplug the car to do your work. For the electricians out there, I have a question regarding 3R ratings and conduit connectors. I read something about water tight conduit hubs for 3R panels for when you're installing conduit above the lowest point of the panel. However, when googling to see water tight conduit hubs, I can only find ones for RMC and Liquit-Tight conduit. Is there an equivalent for rigid PVC conduit? SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 16:46 on May 12, 2024 |
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May 12, 2024 16:41
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FuzzySlippers posted:Turns out my plans have to change because that outlet in the garage on a 20 amp circuit is wired with 14/2 wire. Not sure if I should undertake a big wiring project to get proper wiring to the garage or just change the breaker. Definitely change the breaker for now to get it safe. Then consider rewiring.
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May 14, 2024 04:36
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