|
This might fall a little bit outside of whats normally asked here but I need to install metallic flex from a box to a hole in some 3/8" or 1/2" steel, whats already installed is a cord grip with the longest threads I've ever seen to get through the steel plate. Are there sealtite/flex fittings out there that have an long enough thread or should I try and find a conduit nipple and a flex connector with a female npt thread on the back side of it and use some of these https://www.mcmaster.com/7466K37/ to keep it weathertight? All the holes are sized for 1/2 inch conduit and I really don't want to have to drill that plate out and thread it for 3/4" fittings.
|
#
¿
Oct 26, 2020 21:03
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 30, 2024 03:35 |
|
|
A big part of my job is troubleshooting communication issues. More than once running the comms in a separate conduit has fixed the issue. On installs you might get some electricians complaining about having to run a second pipe but for some crazy reason things work better or more reliably when you follow best practices. It makes it a lot easier to pinpoint the issue when there are less things done the wrong way.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 4, 2023 18:34
|
|
|
Just to clarify Source (breaker panel) to the line side of porch GFCI outlet Load side (hot) of porch GFCI outlet to light switch Switched hot from switch and Neutral from the load side of the porch GFCI outlet to the line side of the pole GFCI outlet Load side of the pole GFCI outlet to the lights on the pole I'd start by lifting the wires from the load side of the pole outlet, re energize, then see if the pole outlet is working.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 4, 2023 21:27
|
|
|
Foxfire_ posted:Isn't it unusual for code to allow low voltage data and mains wires in the same conduit at all? As said it's not allowed but if it's part of a piece of equipment things are different. I don't allow it when I get to call the shots but an OEM that shares a name with a car company or the company Jack Welch destroyed doesn't seem give a poo poo. 4-20, RS-485, fiber, unshielded cat 6, 125dc, gently caress it and throw it all in the same pipe. Conduit is expensive, we're talking .001% of the price here. edit: GFCI outlet sounds like its not getting power or the problem is in the wiring on the load side. SpeedFreek fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Aug 5, 2023 |
|
#
¿
Aug 5, 2023 03:19
|
|
|
Danhenge posted:You might be able to just tie a string to the defunct wire, pull that back through the conduit, and then use the string to run new wire. Or just tape the new wire to the old, just don't use poo poo electrical tape or half rear end taping it. Hopefully the conduit isn't crushed.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 6, 2023 14:32
|
|
|
LimaBiker posted:You can fill it up with silicone grease every time you disassemble it and get a stack of spare O-rings, and replace the ring every other time you clean it. You could probably get a pack of 100 orings from McMaster and the shipping would probably be the expensive part. Clean the connectors and fully grease the orings when you take it apart, you can get the grease when you order the orings.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 19, 2023 15:01
|
|
|
Can anyone recommend a pure sine inverter that can do 120/240? Primary use would be to run my well when the power goes out off the golf cart batteries. I see a ton of options out there and don't trust any of the reviews I found. I need to measure inrush current but running it draws around 1500W, I have 8 6V batteries (48V golf cart) to run on. I just want to be able to wash my hands and flush a few times.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 26, 2023 00:40
|
|
|
Thanks, I should have described the well a little better. Its a 4" casing about 100 foot deep with a 2 wire submersible pump down there, just guessing here but its an induction motor probably. I wanted to avoid a modified sine to be easier on the motor since its old and I'd probably use the inverter for other things. I have a 5kw generator that runs the pump fine (when the generator is working) but you can hear the engine grunt a little when the motor starts. The idea was to not have to start the generator every time the pressure tank gets low enough to start the well up. Just this year the power went out 6 times for 6-14 hours at a time, those were the outages I was home for and I had to set the time on the microwave a few more times than that.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 26, 2023 13:59
|
|
|
I was working in Germany a few weeks ago and asked for a piece of wire for testing something. At least I could say big enough for 20a, I'm so glad there isn't a complete set of imperial electrical measurements too.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 29, 2023 01:37
|
|
|
It's all black or grey switchboard wire with green grounds. To track things down you're doing a lot of tugging. Only once have I seen a color code, yellow was ac, blue was dc, and red was for the cut this and it will probably kill you circuits.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 30, 2023 22:32
|
|
|
SyNack Sassimov posted:Finished up my garage subpanel: Thats a nice looking panel you have there. As long as there are no zip ties in conduit this is forgivable, cut them anyway but anything will be better than what you have.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 11, 2023 23:33
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:Fair enough. Mostly looking for names of "real" supply houses online. I'll google around but this thread tends to know things like this. What area do you live in? CED is one I see a lot and there are a handful of regional chains that are usually pretty good. I've been to plenty of good and bad ones.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 14, 2023 19:58
|
|
|
There are a few CED locations around there, looks like I went to Royal Industrial Solutions when I was out there at some point too for something.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 15, 2023 01:49
|
|
|
Qwijib0 posted:All of the Lutron fan/light switches now require separate hots to the fan, which if they exist are great but if not you have limited options. Lutron's own canopy module which didn't support LEDs was discontinued years ago and they never released a new version with LED support. There is a very limited range of led bulbs that work with it but it took a lot of trial and error to get ones that won't flicker.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 19, 2023 19:51
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:But otherwise - yeah it's super easy and a great "first job." Pickup one of these, they're table stakes for electrical work: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Non-Contact-Voltage-Tester-Pen-50-1000V-AC-NCVT1PR/317460355 (any one will do, that was just the first in the list. I suggest Klein brand.)
|
|
#
¿
Oct 31, 2023 01:08
|
|
|
They have their use, at the end of a 20ft hot stick to confirm the line/bus is dead before hanging grounds. For regular wiring test with a meter or work like it's hot. Just kill power, you're probably not running anything that critical at home. Does anyone know of a good how to crimp video or guide? I need to give some retraining.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 31, 2023 13:31
|
|
|
Quiz time, how do you ground a cabinet? A. Crimp a lug on the cable, remove light duty cable clamp from ground stud, attach to ground stud and torque nut appropriately. B. Attach to one of the two 8-32 screws on the light duty cable clamp and use a ton of washers for the 3/8 hole in the lug. C. Drill a hole in one of the pieces of unistrut, bolt the cable to that, mount the cabinet on rubber vibration pucks keeping it electrically isolated from the strut.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 17, 2023 04:57
|
|
|
You sure? The switching surge generated in house would hit the panel mounted surge suppressor before the rest of the stuff in the house. Unless your panel surge suppressor is stolen 15kv lightning arresters it should soak up at least some of the surge internally or from the utility side, still a good idea to have a non poo poo surge suppressor power strip for electronics as a 2nd line of defense.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 26, 2023 15:28
|
|
|
LimaBiker posted:As long as no current (not even a small current!) is flowing through the motor's bearings, you will be fine. However, your work bench will now be grounded to mains earth via the motor because the metal motor housing must be grounded. It's up to you to decide whether that's a good thing or a bad thing - i don't know if welding work benches are usually somewhat isolated from earth or hard bonded to it. I remember the welders lifting the grounds off the equipment before starting work but never asked why. These were really high current mig welders if it makes any difference.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 30, 2023 00:19
|
|
|
Powerful Two-Hander posted:Funnily enough I was (re) watching this earlier! Seeing as we are probably going to be using this electricity stuff for a while yet I think there should be more education on it in schools. I bet electrocuting an elephant in the school gym would make a lasting memory.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 3, 2024 17:35
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:Honestly every kid should get a "practical Chemistry and Physics" class. Adults too. Glad to report that the series of pull chains connected by baling twine has been replaced by a light switch in my basement, also changed all the fixtures over to LED and replaced some broken outlets while I had everything apart.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 3, 2024 23:49
|
|
|
I have an insulated Wiha set with a torque screwdriver. In reality nothing below 4/0 gets torqued unless it's something special or high voltage (4160+).
|
|
#
¿
Jan 8, 2024 22:23
|
|
|
babyeatingpsychopath posted:The reason I went with Generac is because I worked with their industrial power stuff and it was ROCK SOLID and had amazing customer support and technical help. I knew a lot of people who worked at the factory, I think its where Amazon learned how to churn through people. Average experience level was 2 weeks and topped out around 6 months, good or bad you would get fired before the benefits kicked in.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 13, 2024 15:14
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:your fish electrolysis machine
|
|
#
¿
Feb 8, 2024 22:42
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 30, 2024 03:35 |
|
|
I thought the idea was to use the existing telephone cable as a pull wire?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 14, 2024 14:58
|
|