The Human Cow posted:

I'm stumped. I bought a Lutron Maestro MS-OPS2 - this one and an LED light - this one for a closet. Everything worked well for a couple of days, and then the light would be super dim when it came on:



I thought the light had burned out, so I bought a different dimmable LED fixture and hooked it up, but it did the same thing. I assumed that the switch had died, so I bought a new switch and installed it, but the same thing is happening. Does anybody have any ideas or things I can try? I can hear the switch click when I walk into the room, and the light turns on and off like it's supposed to, but it never gets any brighter than that photo.

Mimesweeper posted:

It's a little more tine in labor but we even twist the joints with pliers first to make sure there's plenty of rock-solid copper to copper under the nut. It does make it a little annoying if you have to take things apart and rework it but if you leave enough slack in the box you can just snip out the twisted section and start over with clean straight wire.

shame on an IGA posted:

the ones rabbitwizard posted? Those are the Wago 221, available in 2, 3 and 5-place models

Beach Bum posted:

Yeah, there's a crossbar. I could see the wood behind the box, 4 woodscrews holding it in. I appreciate the lookin' out

Nevets posted:

Yeah, if the outlet is only rated for 30 amps you shouldn't have a breaker over 30 amps feeding it. Double check you dryer doesn't actually need more than 30 amps before replacing it though. Somebody may have swapped out the dryer cord and outlet in the past so don't rely on them to tell you the current draw of the dryer. Replacing the breaker may get rid of the nuisance tripping too if the old breaker was going bad.

Nevets posted:

Should be, yes, but I think it wasn't always a requirement in the past so possibly not.

B-Nasty posted:

Halo is one of the best brands for these types of lights, since they claim a CRI of 90, and they are generally compatible with quality dimmers. They're also UL listed and made by a major brand (Eaton.)

The ones you want to avoid are the Amazon specials right off the China boat.

Toebone posted:

Old plaster and lathe. 1830s house; I want to add a light switch for sconces and I'm sure I'm going to find wonderful things when I poke a hole and look inside.

Motronic posted:

I mean....sure, that will work. Is there any reason you chose THAT PDU rather than one that has the outputs you actually want on it? Do you even need 120v at all?

Motronic posted:

Okay, but there exist PDUs that can be configured to have the C20s on them rather than looking for some oddball power cords for machines.

I've never seen a reasonable installation with a PDU that has any kind of 5-15Rs or twist lock outlets on it. Racks, clearances, power cables that are normally shipped, etc are basically assuming C14 and/or C20 on the PDU. If you really need a standard 120v outlet that is typically accomplished with a C13 to 5-15R cable. Almost nothing needs this, other than some annoying power bricks which is exactly why you want the jumper cable adapter to deal with them. And, to be honest I haven't seen a wall wart like that in the last decade that didn't also take 110-240v at 50-60Hz. meaning it's hard to imagine why you would need that 120v. And even if you do you almost definitely don't want it in the form of a 5-15R.

Maybe you have an odd setup, but I'm just providing a perspective from someone who been deploying racks all over the world for most of their career. I'm currently shipping around a standard setup who's only config difference between any country (well, other than japan, because of course they have two different grids, so I have two Japan standards) are the detachable power cables on the PDUs so I can use a locally-standard outlet in the facility. This gear is running on local power ranging from 210v to 240v and 50 to 60Hz. Nothing cares anymore. It's all switching power supplies made to work on any country's power because stocking more SKUs is expensive.

H110Hawk posted:

I am so, so sorry. (We're working with a Major US Carrier right now to get them to defuck their Ciena garbage. If you've gotten a string of demand maintenance's in the NY/NJ area these past few days I'm not sorry.)

BlackMK4 posted:

Double boiler espresso machine. It can be run in 15a or 20a mode, may as well run 20a if I can.

VelociBacon posted:

Did you get a chance to look at any circuitboards? Blown capacitor maybe? Something failed open that should be closed? Maybe something around the exhaust where you might see condensation?

VelociBacon posted:

Great work! I'll be effortposting in here in the next little while about fixing the wiring so that two rooms on the same baseboard heater circuit are in parallel and not series so feel free to repay that minor favour at that time

zynga dot com posted:

This is a simple question that I'm sure has been answered to death, but:

I'm replacing the ceiling light fixture and idiot me didn't take a picture before removing the old fixture. The house was built in the 40s but pretty massively renovated in 2020, so we're never quite sure if we have something up to current code or something older that was allowed to stay. I got a voltmeter and did some testing and I'm pretty sure we're dealing with a switch loop: from the ceiling, white is hot and black is unused (unstripped and also taped off).

I assume the ceiling hot goes to hot on the fixture, but what do I do with the neutral on the fixture? I tried with the neutral disconnected (only hot to hot and ground to ground), and the light doesn't turn on but the screw shell is hot.

zynga dot com posted:

zynga dot com posted:

Positive. It was taped off and unstripped. I can check for additional wires but if there are any, they weren't connected to the old fixture.

Danhenge posted:

If so, "comedy" option - you have a neutral ground bond somewhere and the old fixture was using your ground as a neutral.

kid sinister posted:

It sounds like your outlets are just worn out. Go ahead and replace them. Upgrade to TR outlets, they're code now. Put in GFCIs where they are required. Outdoor outlets are required to be WR too.

devicenull posted:

Is that tandem breaker on the left burned? I can't tell from the picture what's going on in the bottom left corner of it.

Also the wire coming out of that 30a breaker looks strange - is that what's going to the dryer? I'm not sure why they would have used such thick wire, you really only need 10 gauge wire for that.