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right arm
Oct 30, 2011

theft of IP is cool and good imo

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right arm
Oct 30, 2011

bought a generator. plumbing it for NG and wiring a 50amp inlet for it this weekend :D

gently caress generac lol

right arm
Oct 30, 2011

SpartanIvy posted:

Hell yeah. Which generator did you go with?

noisiest one possible lol the duromax xp13000hxt

wanted to see if I could swing a closed frame inverter, but I’ve already got a shed in my backyard I’ve been wanting to run power to and I couldn’t stomach dropping like 4x the price for less capacity. gotta be able to run my AC here in the south. maybe in a few years when their prices come down :shrug:

right arm
Oct 30, 2011

wired the 50 amp inlet (in the dark lol) for my generator so that my wife doesn’t have to run extension cords this weekend while it’s 2° and the power inevitably goes out lol

ran my 3ton AC just fine while the water heater was going and then the furnace (ng) after shut the AC down

gently caress generac, all my homies hate generac :D

right arm
Oct 30, 2011

frogbs posted:

I was recently without power for 4 days and never want to go through that again. I'm researching options to at least run our gas furnace off of our small portable generator (basically a Honda 2200i clone). I'm assuming that if my furnace is on a 20 amp breaker that i'll also need a 20 amp transfer switch?

If so, I think this'll fit the bill nicely for just running one circuit, right? https://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Controls-Corporation-TF201W-Generators/dp/B00AHTWM9Q/

It might be nice to be able to switch on/off other circuits, but it's been dificult to find something like this 4 breaker switch in 20 amp with a regular 3 prong inlet port. This is close, but only 15 amps: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C535GCZ?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_KJ18CE3V9TG24YF4EZ5G&language=en-US#customerReviews

Also, i'm going to hire an electrician to install this, I just wanted to do a little research before I called them up.

just get an extension cord for the furnace to run to the gen. you can probably fit it under the weatherstripping for the door. I ran mine through my cat door as a test before I wired my interlock and inlet since I wasn’t sure if my ng meter would feed both my 13000w gen and my furnace

make sure it’s a 20amp cord and you can save yourself both $120 for the switch and $$$ for having an electrician install it

right arm
Oct 30, 2011

frogbs posted:

Thank you for the info! I think at this point my choice is either:

1.) Get a single circuit transfer switch rated for 20a just for the furnace:
https://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Controls-Corporation-TF201W-Generators/dp/B00AHTWM9Q/

2.) Get a larger generator and a transfer switch for 4 or 6 circuits with a 30a inlet.
Generator: https://www.amazon.com/Westinghouse-WGen9500DF-Generator-9500-Watts-Gas-Powered-Electric/dp/B07Q1DLKBG/
Transfer switch (edit, this might actually not be the best choice for this generator, but something like this) https://www.homedepot.com/p/Reliance-Controls-30-Amp-250-Volt-7500-Watt-Non-Fuse-6-Circuit-Transfer-Switch-Kit-3006HDK/202213700

I'm a little leery of upgrading to a much bigger generator because it's going to use a heck of a lot more fuel and be harder for my girlfriend to set everything up. The little portable unit is pretty efficient and easy to move around.

The furnace is hardwired to the panel and doesn't have an existing inlet on it unfortuantely. I also wanted to set it up so that we don't have to go down into the crawlspace to hook it up. Would prefer to do everything from the garage where the panel is located, or even have an inlet port on the outside of the garage to make it super easy.

I vote bigger generator and bigger inlet. champion makes a trifuel inverter that isn’t much more than that westinghouse for $1200 and probably has a dual fuel for even less. or you could get a dual fuel predator from harbor freight and have a better warranty than both. running an inlet and an interlock is what I’d prefer over a transfer switch imo

right arm
Oct 30, 2011

frogbs posted:

In a hilarious stroke of luck my power just went out AGAIN. Really wish I had listened to my father and ordered the single port and just installed it when I had the chance a few days ago. It’s pretty icy and windy, I think a transformer blew this time.

Why do you prefer the interlock and inlet over a transfer switch? The interlock looks sort of janky to me, but maybe I don’t fully understand the difference.

like the previous poster I prefer to be able to pick and choose what breakers I have on (all of them since I have a 13000w and 50amp inlet lol) rather than having to wire a transfer switch. wiring a single 50amp breaker and drilling some holes in my panel cover for the interlock was maybe 30’ worth of work and pretty hard to gently caress up

gen interlock will sell you the interlock you need. they’ll even ID you the correct one from photos if you can’t figure it out. I got mine from there and it fits my panel perfectly

right arm
Oct 30, 2011

definitely not

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right arm
Oct 30, 2011

corgski posted:

No, AFCI/CAFCI breakers do not include any GFCI protection whatsoever. AFCIs only trip on parallel arcs (intermittent shorts to netural/ground with arcing,) CAFCIs trip on parallel and series arcs (loose connections inline in a circuit.) Any modern "AFCI" breaker on the market is going to be a CAFCI.

You must use CAFCI+GFCI breakers (sometimes also called DFCI or "Dual Function") if you want protection for both arc faults and ground faults in your panel. This includes on any circuits where you have no equipment ground and you're using the GFCI method of bringing them up to code.

E:

You're describing dual function/DFCI, CAFCI has never meant ground fault protection.

I’m just going to use regular breakers lol

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