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I have an old bathroom that I'm going to replace the vanity (which also doubles as the light for the room and has the only outlet), add a GFCI outlet in the wall and a light fixture above the mirror. I'd also like to add a ceiling fan (currently there isn't one). The house is a ranch, so I have access to the attic above the bathroom, and should be able to find a place for the exhaust vent pretty easily. I think I want to do a three way switch so the light and fan can be operated independently. So I will add a wire from the switch to the fan. The downside of this is that the outlet will only work when the light switch is turned on, but to remedy this would be a lot more work (I think) so I think it's not worth it. I have help from my dad who has done this kind of wiring before, but is this something that one would typically need any kind of permit for? I don't need conduit or anything like this for the wire to the fan, do I? Anything else I should look out for?
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Jul 23, 2009 19:25
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| # ¿ May 2, 2024 00:25 |
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:If you're pulling new wire up to the fan, you might as well go all the way and pull new wire to your outlet/vanity and have an outlet that's always on. Some GFCIs can get finicky about their power going on and off. thanks bep, this is helpful info. I'm not sure I follow the 'as long as you are pulling wire up to the fan' with wiring the outlet to always be on. I guess I will see how it's wired when I demo the old vanity, but I think the only wire running to the old vanity is coming from the switch. So I'd have to run a separate hot wire down (or up?) to the new outlet. I didn't know GFCI outlets could be finicky with on/off power but obviously I'd rather have it be on all the time.
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Jul 24, 2009 17:00
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I want to wire 2 outlets in my garage on the ceiling for garage door openers. These will be surface mounted in metal flex. I want to run these back to a switch box that is currently located between the garage doors. This switch is a three way that controls the existing lights in the garage. The other three way switch is by the cellar door, maybe 20 feet away. If I replace the three way switch at the cellar door with a two way, and then remove the other three way (between the garage doors), I should be able to just make this switch box a junction box and wire my outlets from there. Is this the easiest way to do this? I would just disregard the red cable, and connect the white and black to my new two way at the cellar door. I obviously don't care about losing the switch between the garage doors. Anything else to consider?
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Sep 18, 2009 18:43
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The hot line and wire to the lights are at the cellar entrance switch. The garage switch is just a loop. The only wiring connection from the switch at the garage door goes back to the cellar door switch. The cellar door switch box then runs back to the panel. Your advice makes sense, and would probably be just as easy. thanks
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Sep 18, 2009 23:23
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 orange is the outlets and wire I want to add on the ceiling, red are the two existing double switch boxes. Two heavy black lines are the garage doors. Actually both boxes are 4x4 with 2 switches. The one at the cellar door is absolutely full (other switch controls light inside cellar). The box between garage doors is also double, the other switch controls an outside light. If I run it back to the cellar door switch I'd have to tap in before it gets to the box. Does the NEC count garage doors as an entrance or is the entrance to the cellar the actual light? grover posted:Good luck! When did you plan on starting this? I've actually already put the outlets and conduit up, but wanted to make sure what I am doing is kosher before connecting.
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Sep 18, 2009 23:33
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I'm working on a basement remodel and I want to add a few outlets on exterior walls. Currently there is paneling on 1/2" furring strips, and ideally I just want to screw 1/2" drywall on top of that. We have existing hot water baseboard heat, so adding studs to get the depth needed for outlet boxes is out. I'm ok with surface mounted outlet boxes, but if there is an appropriate way to hide the wiring behind the paneling before I install the drywall I think that would be nice. I want to run CAT6 and coax as well (which I assume is AOK to run behind the paneling since it is low voltage). So my questions are: 1) Can I run romex behind the existing paneling? Or does this need to be in conduit? 2) Can I run romex and come into a surface mounted box by code? 3) If I can't run conduit/romex behind the existing paneling, should I just look at a wiremold system and run the wire right on top of the baseboards so it's less noticable?
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Jun 20, 2011 15:55
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kid sinister posted:1) Wire fished behind existing paneling? Yes, this is allowed. If you replace that paneling with drywall? Not so much. NM has to be mounted at least 1 & 1/4" back from the stud edge. This is impossible with 1/2" furring strips. The smallest trade size for conduit is 1/2" with 1/16" walls. That makes an outer diameter of 5/8", which wouldn't fit behind your drywall. Your best bet would be to run some 3/8" MC cable instead. MC = Metal Clad, so it is armored. The problem you'll run into with boxes shallow enough to fit into furring strip walls is that the max number of conductors allowed in shallow boxes is so low that each box would have to be an end run. You wouldn't be able to branch off from one box in that wall to another. Instead, you'd have to run each outlet box back to a location with an accessible box big enough to wire them all together. thanks I guess this is code semantics but if I leave the paneling, fish the NM cable up the wall and through the ceiling, then install drywall on top of the paneling and surface mount metal boxes with a rear knockout, that might be allowable? I assume the code has to do with old/new work. A surface mount box could be larger to accommodate daisy chained wires so I don't have to homerun each one. I'd have no problem furring out the walls a little bit but I can't do much more than an inch total without covering/moving my baseboard heat radiators which I don't want to do. I'm thinking maybe I add another ~3/4 furring strip on top of the paneling (lined up with existing furring strips) which should give me a hair over 2" from concrete to the drywall face. Can I daisychain with a 2" deep outlet box?
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Jun 20, 2011 18:38
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| # ¿ May 2, 2024 00:25 |
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kid sinister posted:Yep, that code is for old work. Now you're starting to get into what's allowed by building code, which I can't comment on. yes they are soldered to rigid copper pipe (hot water oil furnace) and also attached to the CMU, possibly even mortared into the concrete. It would be a significant pain to move them if it's even possible, I'd probably have to replace them. I might as well just remove the paneling in areas where I want electircal, homerun MC to each outlet, add another furring strip over the existing, drywall over top and be done with it. I would hope that would satisfy code even for new work?
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Jun 21, 2011 17:14
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