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Not exactly wiring-related, but I'm looking to get a replacement for my breaker box face panel. Just repainted the hall the box is located in. Figured the bare metal would look better with the color scheme. Tried to used some paint stripper figuring it only had 2-3 layers of old paint on it. Apparently it had like...7 and even after two coats and a couple hours of scraping, it's just a mess. So replacing it would probably be easier at this point. But finding just a face plate on a 40 slot/200 amp panel face is beyond my ken. And getting a whole breaker box just for the cover would be $300 more than I'm willing to pay. So, any clues on whether I might find just a cover for one?
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Nov 25, 2023 03:57
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:There are two outlets in the way of built-in cabinets we want to install. I have already removed the outlets and their boxes, and rerouted the wires into a junction box on the other side of the wall in the attic. I intend to run them to two new outlets to be placed just a little bit higher to be clear of the built-ins. We didn't want to keep the boxes empty and just put in a cover because: Just patch the holes with drywall/spackle when she's not home. I know this doesn't answer the question, but no reason to be lazy about it.
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Apr 7, 2024 12:58
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Coolguye posted:how would i go about determining this? again, apologies but i am v dumb when it comes to these topics. this feels like something i should know about my own house, though. I think he's just confusing you with talking about "mains". Basically every device you plug into the wall (with the exception of larger appliances) actually utilized DC voltage. So, every device has a rectifier changing the 120 volt AC into a much lower voltage DC current. That's either going to be a wall wart/wall plug or a small rectifier in the device itself. They're just saying that you could probably DIY a switch using a microcontroller like an Arduino or a Raspberry Pi Pico, so long as you only have to control the relatively tiny voltages and currents running through the DC side of the circuit. BUT, you have to determine where that hard switch that controls the type of light being emitted by the diode is in the circuit. That means cracking one open to see where the hard switch is in relation to where the rectifier is. If it is controlled from the AC side, you can't (easily) use a DIY microcontroller. If that hard switch is on the DC side, you can probably wire a controller into the circuit to act as another wireless switch. But those microcontrollers can't handle AC voltages. I'm 95% sure the hard switch is on the DC side of the circuit. But you'll have to poke around to find out. Here's a sample project for an Arduino microcontroller to include the hardware and programming setup: https://itsourcecode.com/free-projects/arduino-projects/arduino-remote-control-light-switch-code-and-wiring-diagram/ AlternateNu fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Apr 8, 2024 |
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Apr 8, 2024 02:47
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Coolguye posted:Yeah I started talking with my dad on the topic and he was pretty confident we could do something close to what you are suggesting. He's a little more skittish about the wire fishing portion of the process, he seemed to think that would be an enormous pain in the rear end and might involve me loving up my freshly-painted walls. But last time we were at the house to replace some of the loving chandeliers I pointed out the RJ-11 phone jacks and asked if we could use those worthless things to help with that process. He reluctantly admitted we probably could. Ehhhhhh. RJ-11 jacks are usually just CAT3 cable. So you're only getting three pair. If you're just looking to run basic analogue signals over POTS lines, it might work. But if you're looking for any sort of bandwidth above that, you'll need to rip those out anyway for some CAT5 or better. AlternateNu fucked around with this message at 13:04 on Apr 14, 2024 |
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Apr 14, 2024 13:01
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