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Can someone fill me in on why the hell don't dishwasher come with a wire / plug? Pretty much every appliance but that one come with one, is there a reason we have to make our own?
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Mar 10, 2009 16:12
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 06:49 |
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I'm not an electrician by any stretch (and I'm Canadian anyway) but AFAIK that panel should be on a plywood sheet or something so that the wires can be stapled close to the panel. If you rewire that dryer.. give yourself some slack! Sheesh that wire is ran tight.
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Apr 27, 2009 18:20
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I have this going from my house's 200 amp panel to my garage: (underground) I did the muscular part (digging the trench and the 3in hole in my garage's concrete floor) now comes the part I need help with. I'd like to wire all this up for 240v @ 60 amp (I might have a 240v compressor eventually but I wont be running much machinery of this, is 60 amp too much for lighting, a few electrical outlets and the compressor?) How should I wire this up on the panels?
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Jul 13, 2009 04:06
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Well I'm preparing to get a permit for this, hoping to have some help.. Here's how I plan to install this; 100amp breaker (it can do 240v since it's a double pole) @ the house panel, (Why don't they make 70 amp breakers to match their 70amp panels?) 70amp panel (8 slots) in the garage For now I'll only drop 2 15 amp breakers (1 for external light, 1 for internal lights) 2 20 amp breakers (one for each sides of the garage's wall electrical outlets) into it, but I will have room to add the breaker needed for a compressor etc. How's this sounding to you guys?
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Jul 13, 2009 18:47
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Thanks guys, appreciate the help.  babyeatingpsychopath, is this what you refer to? My house is equipped in Federal (pretty much brand new install), so I figured I'd match the garage. I found this while trying to find a wiring diagram, this looks right to you guys?  Edit: Added some question; Can I mount the panel on particle boards or is plywood the only way to go? Should the wire be covered in the garage, since it's so large (the wire would be exposed about 4 feet coming from the ground otherwise)? IsaacNewton fucked around with this message at 15:52 on Jul 15, 2009 |
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Jul 15, 2009 15:44
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It's a detached garage, my panels are 10 feet away from each other. Can the grounding rod be exposed to the element? I will save myself a lot of work if I don't have to make another hole in the garage's concrete floor. My cable is 4x3ga
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Jul 15, 2009 21:08
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kid sinister posted:Uhh, the very name for that object should answer your question How so? I'm concerned about the bare copper wire corroding away in the rain.
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Jul 15, 2009 22:11
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Well this thread saved me from burning my garage down! Thanks again.
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Jul 16, 2009 00:15
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Hello, me again with questions regarding wiring up my garage. (still) I have a Federal 64 slots 200 amp panel in my house. (I wish I had the 40 since 64 is way too many but I disgress) It's mounted upside down to allow for the counter outside and such. Two questions; Is It okay to bring in any more wire from the bottom (normally the top) with connectors and all or is that forbidden? Is the metal part protecting the naughty bits (the mains) required by code? Can I leave the shield out If the first question is 'yes' and I have wire going through there? In the best of worlds I'd have enough wire to go through the hole at the top (which is normally the bottom.. sigh) but I'm 4 feet short. Hopefully the solution isn't the pull that wire out and feed a new one.  P.S.: This is a lot like my panel, mine is just denser.
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Jul 27, 2009 18:31
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:I don't know about Federal in Canada, but Federal Pacific in the US is electrician-speak for "house-consuming electrical fire deathtrap in a box." babyeatingpsychopath posted:If there are still available knockouts on the bottom, it should be fine to punch another one out and feed a wire in from the bottom. The "metal part protecting the naughty bits" is called the deadfront, because if you remove it and touch something, you're dead. US Code says you have to have that installed, Canadian code probably does as well. There's 3 free knockout big enough to pass my 1" 1/2 wire through. My problem is the dead front doesn't give a whole lot of room to have wire go past it, and the wires might be touching a sharp edge of the dead front.
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Jul 28, 2009 16:22
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Mthrboard posted:Take this as a lesson learned, never cut the wire to length until you're sure it's long enough. And then cut it a foot or two longer anyway. It's left over wires I had. I don't know if I could even find a junction box for a 1 1/2 inch wire, let alone marets for 2ga wires. Oh well, nothing to see here, just a guy who wasted mucho money.
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Jul 29, 2009 00:27
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Thank you, that sound a lot more likely to pass inspection than tape on sharp edges. (no offense babyeatingpsychopath) Do you happen to know what the heck a SOL is? http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/...r&showreviews=1
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Aug 6, 2009 16:54
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:You say what you may, we got our green tag yesterday. Thanks, makes sense now. I have stranded wires. poopcutter posted:http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/202039635/Female_Disconnect_Terminal.html What is your application for these? I never saw that used in anything other than vehicle electrical (more than likely rightfully so).
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Aug 7, 2009 15:49
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 06:49 |
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kid sinister posted:My favorite one was somebody finished their basement and built a shower with the fuse box in it. Does anybody know the site I'm talking about?
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Aug 20, 2009 18:37
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