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Helvetica Sucks
Aug 4, 2005
I've got a new brain.

OSU_Matthew posted:

Thanks for the link! I love these kinds of books--I've got the Popular Mechanics Complete Home How-To, and though it's got a really great section on household electricity (that you can read here on Google books), I still feel like I only know just enough to be dangerous.

Eg, twisting stranded wire together with 14g solid core romex... doesn't stranded have the tendency to work its way loose with a twist cap? What's the best type of connector in that situation?

Specifically I'm thinking of the bathroom ventilation fan and ceiling fan I recently installed, both of which have aluminum wiring to boot... which, come to think of it, doesn't aluminum expand and contract and work its way loose over time too? Am I asking for trouble using the wire nuts supplied with the products?

May want to clarify...is the house wiring 14g solid core copper (NM-B) and the bath fan/ceiling fan stranded "aluminum" wire? The wiring on the fans themselves may look like aluminum but is almost assuredly tinned copper, which is silver in color. This would not need a special connector. If the house wiring is indeed aluminum then a special connector would be needed.

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Helvetica Sucks
Aug 4, 2005
I've got a new brain.
Weird problem I've been trying to figure out: moisture in my electrical panel. When it rains or when it's especially moist outside, one side of of breakers in the panel have moisture between the breakers. I've confirmed that water is not entering through the service entrance; it just appears to be moisture buildup from condensation. This is in a basement which is technically conditioned space but does get humid. Moisture buildup is worse in the fall and winter.

This is a Cutler Hammer panel with a copper bus bar so I'm not too concerned about bus bar corrosion, but there is some rust buildup at the bottom of the panel and some rust staining on the breakers themselves. Can there be enough residual heat from the breakers to cause moisture if the ambient air temperature is cool enough? And can moisture degrade the breaker internals to prevent the breaker from tripping?

In any case, looks like it's time for a new dehumidifer.

Helvetica Sucks
Aug 4, 2005
I've got a new brain.

Blackbeer posted:

Is the panel mounted directly to a cement wall? I've found that mounting a piece of plywood to an unfinished basement wall (between panel and wall) prevents this.

It's mounted on some lovely particle board. The board is only nailed at the top so I should be able to slip a piece of plywood or foamboard insulation behind it to get it further away from the cold wall.

Helvetica Sucks
Aug 4, 2005
I've got a new brain.

devicenull posted:

Is it cold air coming in through the service entrance, and condensing on the slightly warm breakers?

Blackbeer posted:

This could be the issue given the change in temperature over the course of the day. Cold enclosure w/ slightly warmer air coming in as the day warms up. Should condense on the enclosure, but sealing the service entrance with duct putty would cut down on overall water vapor.

Hmm, hadn't thought of this. This is service entrance cable, not conduit--where would the duct seal go? In the panel where the cable sheath is cut? The seal where the SE enters the meter box looks OK but guess it wouldn't hurt to seal it again.

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