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CSi-NA-EJ7 posted:All the info you need   I wonder if there are any events like that out here...I can't find any info on their website.
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May 14, 2009 23:17
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| # ? May 5, 2024 06:19 |
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Rode it to work! I figure with how the weather here has been, if I leave it at home because it's cold/rainy I'm not gonna get to ride it at all.
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May 14, 2009 23:22
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Z3n, how much do you usually pay for track days? The ones here are $125/$155 and most of them are 'No Sessions.' Just curious to see what other areas charge
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May 14, 2009 23:23
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CSi-NA-EJ7 posted:Z3n, how much do you usually pay for track days? The ones here are $125/$155 and most of them are 'No Sessions.' Just curious to see what other areas charge Depends on the track. The smaller, less well maintained tracks are around 125-155$ (Streets of Willow, Buttonwillow, Big Willow actually runs in the this price range too). The better maintained tracks will range from around 150-300$, with 300 being places like laguna, infineon on weekends, and Thunderhill ranging from 200ish to 250ish.
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May 14, 2009 23:33
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Time to convert my front end, as naked bikes are the best bikes. Off with the windshield..  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. Look at this here...  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. Plenty more extra wires, not sure what this system was even for. Made removal of all these parts extra fun, but they were siliconed to the walls.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. Guts exposed.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. It was far too hot to work on the cement in the full sun, thus we had a staging area.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. Temp in the shade, this is roughly 5 degrees off just from age, around 103+ in the sun.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. Keeping the wires straight.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. It took 1.5 hours of bending and vice-work to make these "universal" brackets fit properly, the guide made it seem like they would be a bit of a better fit.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. Got the bucket in, fitting everything else.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. Fitted on exposes the giant horn mod the previous owned put on.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. Bonus in the pictures is the steering stabilizer (giant piston in the steps picture) and me in a hat reflecting in the gauge cluster (keep that sun off). Took around 3-4 hours total for the procedure, largely bending the brackets and finding where all the wiring came from. I'm still quite happy with the results, though I may get some new turn signals that look a bit better in there.
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May 15, 2009 00:58
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I added another bike to my insurance. So now I own two 1993 CB400 Superfours. I feel somewhat Nero-like. 3 bikes in all. Actually, it's going to be my friend's bike, but it cost me 3 quid to insure it (plus the admin charge of 25 pounds), and he was looking at a few hundred, just to get it home. He's not passed his test yet, so it's tough to insure him on it, and there's very few places that would insure me on it without me owning it and him not being on the insurance. So it's cheaper and easier for me to 'buy' it, register it and insure it for the next few months, and then transfer it to him once he's passed.
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May 15, 2009 14:05
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I finally rebuilt the front brake master cylinder on my 1977 Honda CB750K. I've been trying to get the cir-clip out without resorting to the Honda custom cir-clip pliers. Once I got it out, the internals looked like this (Shiny replacement parts on the right):  The channel was full of sorts of gunk, so I used .45 acp brass bore brush and compressed air to get it all out. Works like a charm now! (yeah yeah, I know I need to clean my bikes) 
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May 15, 2009 20:40
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I have done several things over the past 2-3 days. My brake lever broke, there are pictures in my fist full of death thread. So I got a new OEM replacement lever and installed it. The bike needed an oil change since it sat for a year or so. Fresh full synthetic Castol 10w40 and a new K&N filter for my baby. I drained it and ran a half a quart through it for a bit of a rinse as well. Clutch lever was horrifically bent from the wreck with the PO. Replaced the lever with a brand new OEM replacement. I tweaked it via the twist nut for personal feel. It went from a fight to not stall and even reach the lever to a smooth controlled pull. Air filter was shot to pieces, had dirt and grass from the wreck in it. Replaced the OEM paper filter with a new K&N filter. I ordered a new set of fittings/bolts for the fairings. I installed the new clips/brackets and took the roughed up fairings and mocked the bike up to test fit and see how it all fits together. Parts awaiting delivery: Front stay for headlights/tach New headlight assembly Things that still need to be done: Fairings will be ordered this coming Thursday once I get paid. I will be ordering them from http://www.nicecycle.com/ (I'm taking suggestion on what paint job to get! considered getting an R6 paint job on the R1 for that "sleeper" effect) Along with the new fairings I will be purchasing frame sliders. I am going to have stainless steel brake lines installed if not this paycheck the next. The lines appear to be in good shape and are not giving me issues. However with the bike having been in a wreck I would rather do preventative maintenance than disaster recovery. Right now that is the extent of my plans for the bike. I would like to look into a steering damper, Power commander, full exhaust system and mostly some cosmetics.
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May 16, 2009 06:00
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:I am going to have stainless steel brake lines installed if not this paycheck the next. The lines appear to be in good shape and are not giving me issues. However with the bike having been in a wreck I would rather do preventative maintenance than disaster recovery. These guys mostly sell parts for old Japanese bikes but they have a big selection of new stainless steel brake parts at great prices. I ended up converting my lines to stainless for less than $50. Worth checking out: http://www.z1enterprises.com
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May 16, 2009 06:25
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8ender posted:These guys mostly sell parts for old Japanese bikes but they have a big selection of new stainless steel brake parts at great prices. I ended up converting my lines to stainless for less than $50. Worth checking out: I don't see anything there for my bike as listed by model. I honestly am not really comfortable with handling brakes myself as far as installation goes. I am comfortable with almost every other aspect of maintenance. I just have issues tinkering with the one part that controls whether I live or die 100%. That being said if we have a get together sometime in a month or two I can pick up the parts and materials, with a 6 pack and come hang out.
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May 16, 2009 06:55
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:I don't see anything there for my bike as listed by model. I honestly am not really comfortable with handling brakes myself as far as installation goes. I am comfortable with almost every other aspect of maintenance. I just have issues tinkering with the one part that controls whether I live or die 100%. He's got the brake stuff buried a few pages in. Try here: http://www.z1enterprises.com/catalog.aspx?pid=YPWB1 Brake lines are easy. The lines and fittings just screw together and then screw onto the master cylinder and caliper with a banjo. Easy peasy. The hardest part is bleeding the master cylinder. That said if you're anxious about doing it yourself I can understand.
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May 16, 2009 16:16
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8ender posted:He's got the brake stuff buried a few pages in. Try here: That is my main issue. I have done hydraulic brakes on my mountain bike with some rough results. If I can see it done once I will be fine with it. When I have it done I will go watch the service techs do it if nothing else.
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May 16, 2009 19:45
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:That is my main issue. I have done hydraulic brakes on my mountain bike with some rough results. If I can see it done once I will be fine with it. When I have it done I will go watch the service techs do it if nothing else. We're doing a maintenece day soon. Lemme know if you want to do them then. They're super easy.
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May 17, 2009 01:54
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What did I do with my ride today? I brought her home. Bought a 1991 Suzuki GS500 with 32,700 miles on it. I paid $350 for it, no, it doesn't run. It's been sitting a couple of months. Tomorrow is going to be such a fun day! Buying spark plugs(Seriously, it only came with one) hunting down the reason only the right turn signals work, finding out why she doesn't have compression in one cylinder, seeing if it has spark and finally finding out why it won't turn over! Woo! And don't forget that sticking brake lever.
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May 17, 2009 06:03
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^^ Sounds like fun. Seriously, I love this kind of stuff. Price was right, too.
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May 17, 2009 06:24
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Bought a 2001 Ninja 250 with a good engine but trashed elsewhere for $200 to put in my other '93 Ninja 250 with a titled frame. When my clutch cover gasket comes in this week i will have 2 running Ninjas for less than $1500 total invested. Will post pics of the piles of crap in my carport soon.
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May 17, 2009 06:30
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Proceeding with the Goldwing carb rebuild after a few weeks off... I broke the head off the mixture screw today because instead of soaking the body in acetone for a day like I should have, I went at it with pliers. I guess I figured I could just fall back to the extractor like I did before. Well, doing that on a brass screw seated in a tube cast from white metal is a recipe for disaster. So now the J-B Weld is curing, setting the pieces of the mixture screw tower back together. I carefully put the pieces in place and verified that the threads were aligned, then glopped the epoxy on and wound 18" of fiberglass around the mess. Hopefully this should help the epoxy resist the expansive pressure when the idle screw is replaced. [the above was written a few weeks ago. Continuing...] I finally got around to touching up the epoxy this afternoon. Goddamn that poo poo is tough. I also took a look a the Goldwing tech tips page which indicates that major issues with idle screws are common, so I feel better. In other news, I'm going to be posting about Vespas pretty soon, since my 75 year old dad got hit by some fucker making an illegal left turn last night, while riding my mom's Vespa. I suppose it's better that than his Norton 850 Commando.
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May 17, 2009 08:34
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This was Friday, but...I tried to replace my clutch cable. Tried, mind you. Is there some secret to this? The instructions in both my Haynes manual and the online shop manual both just say "oh, untighten these bolts and remove the cable." I untightned, but the cable will not budge at all. Now my clutch is kind of sticky, so I assume I need to tighten it back up some. The cable is original as far as I can tell and while it hasn't given me any trouble I thought it would be nice to replace it, being as it's 27 years old. Goddamnit.
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May 17, 2009 17:12
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Where are you having trouble? Lever end or clutch end? What exactly have you loosened/removed? Pics would help, too. 'Sup, ChengShin-shod '82 CB650 buddy!
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May 17, 2009 17:23
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Both ends. I can go grab some pictures and post. We are few and far between. Even Honda people don't know what I'm riding half the time.
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May 17, 2009 18:50
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100 Years in Iraq posted:Both ends. I can go grab some pictures and post. Please do. We'll figure it out.
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May 17, 2009 19:03
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Ok, went out and grabbed a couple of shots. Here's the engine end of the cable. The rubber boot was actually intact until I tried pulling the cable out of the clamp that holds it.  The odd bracket that holds it in place. This thing is rock solid and doesn't give in any way, shape or form. How the gently caress do I slide the cable out of here once I get it out of the clamps? The tightening bolts don't allow it to slide far enough forward to just pull it out sidways, and certainly prevents it from being pulled through.  The lever end. I assume you're just supposed to slide the grommet on the end out through that notch, but it's stuck in there like a motherfucker and won't budge. Can't seem to get enough slack to work it out, even with the lever removed. And since I can't figure out how to get the engine-end off either I'm quite hosed.  Also, sorry about the blurriness.
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May 17, 2009 19:18
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Okay, here we go: Remove clutch lever pivot bolt. Remove lever from perch, and cable end from lever. Loosen adjuster stop collar and unscrew adjuster from clutch perch. Loosen jamnuts on engine bracket (picture 2). Using needlenose pliers, small screwdriver, etc., pull cable end (just the cable, not the sheath) toward the rear of the bike, then out the slot in the actuator lever (picture 1). Unscrew rear jamnut all the way, and pull the sheath forward far enough to get the cable sideways out of the slot in the engine bracket. Un-route the whole assembly out of the frame. Pay attention to the routing. Turn the stop collar so that the slot aligns with the slot in the adjuster. Transfer adjuster assembly, jamnuts, and shredded remains of boot to new cable. Reassemble and adjust. Lemme know if you get stuck.
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May 17, 2009 19:33
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Step 2: Remove cable from lever how? Just yank on the thing until it comes out? It's really jammed in there. Sorry to be so dumb, I just don't want to gently caress anything up and then have an unrideable bike (it's my only source of transportation). Edit: Ok, progress. There was a little rubber sleeve that was preventing the lever end of the cable from coming out. I had to turn it until there was a gap the cable could move through. SubponticatePoster fucked around with this message at 20:02 on May 17, 2009 |
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May 17, 2009 19:44
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100 Years in Iraq posted:Step 2: Remove cable from lever how? Just yank on the thing until it comes out? It's really jammed in there. Sorry to be so dumb, I just don't want to gently caress anything up and then have an unrideable bike (it's my only source of transportation). The cable just sits in the adjuster. If there's crash damage or it's bent, you may have to pull the cable housing out from the lever to get it to seperate. If you want to make life much, much easier, undo the nuts at the bottom and completely loosen the cable, and then you can remove it from the bottom, get all of the slack on the line, and it should just pop out from the top.
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May 17, 2009 19:46
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Once you pull the lever out of the perch, the barrel/ball on the end of the cable should practically fall out of the lever. It will not pull through the perch with the adjuster screwed in--see step 3. ^^ What he said. Typed a hurried reply, may not be in absolutely ideal order.
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May 17, 2009 19:54
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Today I used my bike to celebrate the 17th of May, our constitution day! Didn't take a very long ride, but got a nice panorama. http://djmarvin.org/17mai/askpano.jpg
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May 17, 2009 20:01
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Okay, ignore what I said about removing the adjuster--there's a slot in the perch. Just align the adjuster, stop collar, and perch slots (pic 3).   
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May 17, 2009 20:21
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Ola posted:Didn't take a very long ride, but got a nice panorama. http://djmarvin.org/17mai/askpano.jpg Why must you taunt us so, with your beautiful vistas? E: double post--sorry. 
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May 17, 2009 20:27
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Z3n posted:The cable just sits in the adjuster. If there's crash damage or it's bent, you may have to pull the cable housing out from the lever to get it to seperate. Bent? What's that you say?    So I have been moderately successful. The old nasty rusty gunky cable is laying in the driveway where I threw it to the ground and stomped on it several times while swearing. However, that cable adjuster is pretty hosed (I think it got bent in my lowside last November). I had to break off some of the smashed threading to get the cable out and I don't have a tap-and-die set to redo the mangled threads. Also I'm having a hell of a time getting the new cable into the clamp. I understand a snug fit for safety, but this thing's tighter than a 9 year old altar boy. I will keep trying and start calling around to see if anyone has the adjusters in stock  . In other more exciting news however, it turns out that I know the guy who is selling the Superhawks and the Yammy (small world) and he is setting aside the choicest bits for me. The Yammy is gone (sorry 8ender) so I'm getting a lovely blue Superhawk plus spares for the low low price of $100. I figure I have nothing to lose here, and either I will be very proficient at motorcycle mechanics when all is said and done, or I'll be able to sell of the parts and make a profit on Ebay.
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May 17, 2009 20:53
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Bucephalus posted:Okay, ignore what I said about removing the adjuster--there's a slot in the perch. Just align the adjuster, stop collar, and perch slots (pic 3). I dont have anything else to say except those are some of the most delightful repair shots ever. If only everyone could shoot pictures of parts with bright colors in the background 
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May 17, 2009 20:55
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100 Years in Iraq posted:mangled adjuster Holy poo poo. Problem identified. Cable won't go into what clamp? dietcokefiend posted:I dont have anything else to say except those are some of the most delightful repair shots ever. If only everyone could shoot pictures of parts with bright colors in the background Focusing on the bike; they just came out that way. No shutter skillz here. The tree nursery in the background is preferable to corn, or godawful McMansions. Plus, it's funny to see the workers in long pants and sleeves in 80* weather. 
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May 17, 2009 21:08
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Boy I am glad to have a Hydraulic clutch. The last time I ever hope to deal with cables again was when I put new throttle cables on.
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May 17, 2009 21:10
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Bucephalus posted:Holy poo poo. Problem identified. The one at the engine-side. It's a lil' c-looking thing with a notch to fit the cable into, then you pull out the slack and the nut at the end holds it in place. I'm afraid to try any sort of prying/leverage for fear of damaging the thing. Maybe, like the 9 year-old altar boys, I should try some lube. I did find the parts # for the adjuster bolt, and a new OEM one is only about $9. So if I can't make this one fit back then at least I can pick up a replacement fairly cheaply. Thanks CA for helping stupid people!
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May 17, 2009 21:16
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Nono, don't pry on it, you'll crack/break it. Just go at it with some sandpaper wrapped around a pencil/screwdriver/whatever, or a round file. There's probably just enough corrosion built up on the aluminum to cause trouble.
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May 17, 2009 21:23
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100 Years in Iraq posted:The one at the engine-side. It's a lil' c-looking thing with a notch to fit the cable into, then you pull out the slack and the nut at the end holds it in place. I'm afraid to try any sort of prying/leverage for fear of damaging the thing. Maybe, like the 9 year-old altar boys, I should try some lube. You should thread the cable through first and then slide the housing through the gap. You may need to remove the nut from the bottom of the cable housing before you can get it to fit in.
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May 17, 2009 21:56
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^^ Ah, yes. 100YiI, the sheathing (where the nuts thread on) only fits through the round hole in the center of the bracket--it won't slip through the notch in the side.
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May 17, 2009 22:07
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Yeah, I've got that part. The actual little bracket on the bottom of the clutch housing itself is what's giving me trouble. So, what did you do to your bike today? Brought it home! In pieces, lots of pieces. Almost enough pieces to build a 2nd bike. It was all going in the garbage if it wasn't taken. So I took it. Even setting spares aside for myself, I'll probably be able to finance a good portion of the resto with spare parts: Rolling chassis:  Motor:  A buckit of spare parts and a rear fender:  Anudder buckit of spare parts and a seat and mufflers:  Still more loving spare parts. Those gauges are off a later year, maybe a 67 or 68 I think:  A complete crank (the pushrods are hanging down out of sight), plus an entire set of black front forks:  2nd tank, in much better shape than the first, I believe it's the companion to the red rear fender:  Spare cam:  Closeups of the gauges:  Extreeeeme closeup of a gauge. I think the other one has 10k on it:  It's going to take me days to sort through this stuff. I don't even know what some of it is. I hid it in the greenery to keep naughty people away until I can get the crates and poo poo into the basement. I'll leave the chassis and engine outside for now. The black/red stuff is in much better condition than the blue. That paint is rusty and coming off in chunks. I'll probably switch out the black/red for the blue and then blast that stuff and keep it as spares. O Lord, what have I gotten myself into? SubponticatePoster fucked around with this message at 01:20 on May 18, 2009 |
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May 18, 2009 01:11
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100 Years in Iraq posted:Yeah, I've got that part. The actual little bracket on the bottom of the clutch housing itself is what's giving me trouble. Oh, okay. The slot that the cable goes through? Put a flat-blade screwdriver in there, then give it a little twist like you're turning a screw. Then try the cable. Keep going, a little at a time, until you get it. You'd really have to reef on it to do any damage. (Put the screwdriver in from the front, where the round hole is--not from the side.) Dagen H fucked around with this message at 01:23 on May 18, 2009 |
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May 18, 2009 01:20
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| # ? May 5, 2024 06:19 |
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Ola posted:No longer content to taunt us with your amazing scenery and mountain roads, you've resorted to the fair haired Norwegian lasses. Curse you Ola!
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May 18, 2009 01:22
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