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Dutymode posted:I know suwb is riding dirt, but I've wondered what those would be like on a dual-sport or something where you might be on ice half the time, or you want to ride pavement between areas. Will they gently caress up pavement? Will they wear down almost instantly? Will they feel like riding on ice if there isn't ice? First these are not ice tires. They suck on ice. Hardware store screws will do better than these on ice. These are best for snow covered trails or frozen ground. They work fine on pavement. Mine are 10 years old, and if you add up all the transfer sections I've done, I've probably got 200 miles on them on pavement with no visible wear on the tips. They fail in cantilever, so spinning hard in mud, way before they're wear down. I've never slid on them on pavement, but I bet if I slammed on the brakes or goosed it, they'd spin.
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Dec 14, 2017 02:13
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I used to work at a motorcycle shop and now I pay for them to do it for me. Ya'll need to get one of these welded up:  It probably helps that I change tires monthly, but with this baby I can do a tire off in about 5 minutes, and a tire on in about 5 minutes. Not counting time is getting the rim in the tire itself, which really depends on how cold the tire is. I just use C-clamps to clamp it on my bench. I also have one that goes in a receiver hitch on my truck for moto-trips.
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Feb 16, 2018 16:59
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builds character posted:Where'd you get the one that goes in a receiver hitch? I walked into a local welders shop with the one I had and asked for one. I don't think anyone actually makes them! A welder friend of mine made one for me a decade ago.
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Feb 16, 2018 18:15
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Are those a new thing or are they popularly used? I'd be worried about loving up the rim/spokes cause you're putting stress on them you wouldn't normally on a machine or a no-mar or the ground. It's mounted just through a fake axle through the wheel hub, right? Yeah it's sitting on the wheel spacers, so essentially when you change the tire you're putting load on the bearings, significantly less load than when riding though.
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Feb 16, 2018 18:34
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All three bieks have the same carb. god bles
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Feb 21, 2018 03:16
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builds character posted:Seems like an awkward thing to swap out between bikes but fair enough. Sounds like it’s time for you to do some testing on lectron carbs. It's not so bad 
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Feb 21, 2018 14:38
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Slowly unburying the kick idler assembly for replacement: I really have minimal desire to pull the rekluse out and remove the clutch basket. Ugh.
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Feb 27, 2018 15:54
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GriszledMelkaba posted:That suuuuucks. I just replaced the kickstart shaft on my 300 and you have to remove the entire basket to gain access to it. How did you get the spring off the assembly when it was still sitting in the case? Did you just unscrew the mount?
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Feb 28, 2018 14:44
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GriszledMelkaba posted:I think I unscrewed the mount a bit to relieve some pressure and carefully unscrewed it all the way out, I don't remember it flinging anything. Rotate the assembly ccw and the whole thing should slide out. The spring stays on the assembly though and getting that part off the shaft took some gumption. I really really tried to drill and use a screw extractor to get the broken kick start lever bolt from the PO out of there before going this route. Cool - thanks
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Mar 1, 2018 17:33
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 Couldn't find my holding tool, so I used some sox. Bike's all together and working great.
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Mar 2, 2018 16:41
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Same bike as above, noice. Cylinder looks in great condition though, so he just bought a top end. I'll slot it in on tuesday. Both circlips were in place, so I don't really have a concept for what caused this issue. oh well.
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Mar 5, 2018 14:36
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GriszledMelkaba posted:Holy poo poo. did it run normal though? this is my first 2 stroke I've ever worked on and I get the feeling that they work perfectly fine all the way until they don't. lolno. The rings are pseudo welded to the piston right there, so it didn't start. Compression was bad, but not obviously bad. Up until now, every time I go in to replace a piston I measure it, and find it's fine, and just replace the rings. Good to have something new to work with I guess?
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Mar 6, 2018 16:10
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May 30, 2018 21:21
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Jazzzzz posted:Since y'all are posting pics of suspension work - how much of a pain in the rear end is swapping cartridges in USD forks if you've never done it before? I'd have to buy a bunch of tools, so I'm already leaning towards just taking the forks to a shop to have them do it. I have about $200 in special tools, not counting the stuff I made myself. A variety of high speed compression adjuster removers and fork cap removers. These are required. I have a few damping rod holders, and some vice grips for specific diameters. I don't have any seal drivers cuz lol y. Though customized suspension is pretty much required in the dirtbike world, doing it yourself is a bad idea unless you know what you're doing. Send it out.
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May 31, 2018 14:48
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New tank! Can't wait to smash my nards into it.
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Jul 2, 2018 16:49
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up-armored the ol' rear brake yesterday. I had one of these on, but when I put my new rear tire on I found it was mysteriously missing. Hmm.
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Jul 3, 2018 16:19
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Weight reduction
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Jul 16, 2018 17:04
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 In the middle of a strip down and build back up to fix years of PO mishandling. So far: 0. Replaced bars and grips 1. Designed some mounting lugs for the ZX6R triple clamps to moutn the OEM dash/fairing bracketry and sent to machine shop for aluminum welding 2. Replaced the tail light wiring harness and got LEDs in there 3. Removed and sent the suspension out (rear shock is dead) 4. Replaced the radiator hoses and some plastic T fitting that had an inline temp sensor with silicone hoses and an aluminum sensor block (and new sensor) 5. Ground down broken bodywork snaps and drilled holes to fit metal KTM bodywork snaps and replaced frame grommets to match 6. Wired up new LED signals and headlight and signal relay 7. Removed and saved in a safe spot the very expensive RZ350 powervalve computer and actuator system (my banshee top end has no powervalve) 8. Replaced the shift shaft seal, primary shaft seal, and neutral indicator sensor and seal (there was an oil leak somewhere and I didn't know which) Things I'm doing soon: 1. Merging a Banshee throttle cable lower with a RZ350 throttle cable upper to remove slack in the throttle 2. Cutting and reterminating the clutch cable end to shorten it up to remove the PO's nested cable adjuster situation 3. Replacing the dashboard KPH dial with a MPH dial and cleaning/polishing the clear plastic for all gauges and installing LED illuminators to replace the crappy incandescent bulbs 4. Replacing OEM wiring jackets and corrugated with all new wiring protection and fitting connector plugs to unpopulated connectors (like the powervalve to ECU harness) 5. Replacing the kickstarter 6. Doing a significant fastener replacement program for years of hardware store fasteners with high quality JIS stuff 7. I ordered the giant dial-looking stock RZ petcock from japan and will fit when it arrives 8. Putting a banjo bolt brake sensor on the front brake Things I'm doing when machine shop and suspension return: 1. Compression testing just for fun since piston rings are super easy on these bikes 2. Significant sheet metal fabrication work (3x brackets) to mount the OEM fairing and gauge bracket to my reproduction fairing that does not have some badly needed mounting tabs 3. Come up with solution to the solo seat mounting to the tail light bracket - this part was for racers and is unobtanium and unfortunately complex 4. Maybe send all body work out for paint? shacked up with Brenda fucked around with this message at 16:47 on Dec 1, 2022 |
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Dec 1, 2022 16:24
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It came with the banshee high compression top end and bigger carbs so I don't know otherwise. The switch to on-the-pipe isn't too violent as youd expect from a two stroke. Less violent than any valved dirtbike It's still an rz motor so no low gears.
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Dec 4, 2022 01:52
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Got this off the side of the road: The top end is roasted:  All the brakes work, clutch works, suspension damps. Bottom end seems OK (crank and conrod bearing at least), and it shifts through all its gears. It has spark. Fork seals are blown, front wheel bearing is blown, the heim join is super mega blown. A friend in my club has a top end on his shelf ready to go, so I'm going to clean it up and put it all together and see if it will run. If it runs I'll spend the couple hundred dollars on chassis parts to have it tight again, and give it to my buddy Joe who just had a kid and will never get a dirtbike again, and regrettably motos on a KTM 530.
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Dec 6, 2022 14:38
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Got a piece of KTM motor development history for free for my also free ktm. Can you spot the weirdness?
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Dec 8, 2022 01:13
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There's a big long story and I'm not allowed to sell this bike with this head, but cool to have FOR FREE
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Dec 8, 2022 03:01
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I still need cams and cam bridges from the blown up bike. Intake cam is OK Exhaust cam shaft (not lobe) is galled but I sanded/polished it for a while and its probably ok. The bridges are toast. Oil starvation.  $270 buckaroos to replace. Anyway, putting it away for a while so I can keep working on the RZ.
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Dec 9, 2022 16:32
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it's almost spring, and I totally tore apart the RZ350 I bought last year. In the past month I have: 1. Replaced all the radiator hoses 2. Replaced a plastic Y pipe with a brass one with a temperature sensor port, and wired in the sensor 3. 3D printed and replaced my throttle cables 2-1 adaptor 4. Bought some expensive-rear end reproduction tail light bulb sockets and put new LED blinky lights 5. Replaced broken old turn signals with new LED signals 6. Removed the ZX6R front end and welded mounting lugs onto the top clamp and bottom clamp for the OEM dash bracket (lucky ebay find) 7. Drilled and tapped some new mounting holes for the above 8. Greased the steering and re-assembled the whole situation 9. Mounted a new LED headlight and refurbed/mounted the old gauge cluster EDIT: forgot to say I got the suspension rebuilt and machined new spacers for the linkage to replace washer stacks. Rear shock was blown, front end was very dirty. Thats where it's at. To finish wiring I need too: 1. Finish replacing the yamaha keyswitch with the ZX6R keyswitch by using an automotive relay to reverse the "off" logic of the switch 2. Remember how I got the front turn signals working during my bench test and make that happen again by building a few custom cables 3. Use my new fabric sleeves and spiral wrap to pretty it up and stuff it all back into the new headlight When that's done I'm replacing the petcock with an OEM ebay find, modifying it to remove the vacuum switch, and remounting the body work that requires petcock alignment Then I can ride it twice a year and remember road riding sucks compared to dirtbiking. shacked up with Brenda fucked around with this message at 17:09 on Apr 12, 2023 |
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Apr 12, 2023 17:05
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May 2, 2023 18:10
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TotalLossBrain posted:Cold and snow this weekend. I think it may be a good opportunity to check the valve clearances on the KLX140 (150 hours? I really don't know), KLX300R (~140 hours), and KX250 (45 hours). Unless they start poorly I wouldn't.
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Jan 12, 2024 20:34
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Slavvy posted:Personally I think doing stuff before it becomes a potentially damaging problem is the way to go What damaging problem do you refer too?
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Jan 12, 2024 23:53
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Slavvy posted:Burned valve seats usually I just don't live in a world where great running bikes burn valve seats I guess. The risk on his kx is timing chain or tensioner wear really, but should be 100hrs unless he's an A rider racing weekend to weekend.
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Jan 13, 2024 00:28
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Slavvy posted:?? If your clearances are tight enough to make the bike hard to start, it's already doing valve and seat damage. This is colossally incorrect
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Jan 13, 2024 01:11
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Slavvy posted:
Nice nice This is the second set of posts you've made in response to me that I've shared around the shop lol
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Jan 13, 2024 01:22
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Just going through the last pieces of nonsense from rebuilding an abandoned bike. Sheared compression adjuster detent mechanism in the base valve. Trying to find a source for a replacement.  The old KTM nitro bladder forks are the best they ever made though. Always nice to see the quality when going through them. I hear the 2024 fork is finally good though. Look forward to ripping one apart.
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Mar 6, 2024 23:08
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Finally got the new compression clicker so I could rebuild the base valve. Now both forks have new seals, bushings, an assbuttload of orings, and new oil. I'm running the cartridges at MXAs suggested 18 psi and I borrowed a shim stack spec from a friend. Should be all good now. Dirtiest forks I've ever serviced though. 
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Mar 29, 2024 00:39
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I just finished rebuilding the suspension on my woods bike, and I'm doing my yearly linkage regrease.
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Apr 15, 2024 21:50
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Phy posted:Working on getting it back out of storage. It runs, I could ride it home tonight if I had my gear with me, but I want to do the valve shims and a carb balance first. I run mine until it looks like a japanese woodcut of a wave. If you run it past that you get built-in traction control.
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Apr 18, 2024 13:03
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