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Slavvy posted:Righto. In that case I'd better go back and measure more accurately. From what you know is there an absolute no-go threshold? Keeping in mind we're talking about a semi-feral B12 so a pretty long wheelbase compared to sportybikes. That should be fine, I wouldn't worry about it. You'd notice the instability pretty loving quickly, bike doesn't wanna return to center but overshoots and tends to wobble its way down the road when you've got geometry dramatically off. It's a B12 so the geometry is pretty lazy from stock, just turn up the pace slowly when you start getting into more spirited riding.
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# ¿ Sep 17, 2018 06:54 |
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# ¿ May 13, 2024 02:36 |
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Slavvy posted:Sweet! Why do you need to shorten it? I'd generally avoid futzing with stuff like that, but as long as you can keep the bladder that keeps the high pressure nitrogen intact it shouldn't be a problem.
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# ¿ Sep 17, 2018 07:11 |
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Dagen H posted:1) drat, where you been, Son? Oh, you know, work. loving careers drawing all my time away from my quality posting. Thanks! We had a group of poo poo posters, needed to get on that #2 scene. builds character posted:1. I love TTR125s. TTR125s are pretty great. I run a XCF flash by Blais Racing, stock exhaust, less restrictive endcap. It didn't run super hot when it was stock, just liked to flame out on large throttle applications from idle. I need to fine tune the TPS to totally get rid of that, but it's almost gone now. pokie posted:Love this color. It's okay I'll be ruining it soon.
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# ¿ Sep 18, 2018 00:19 |
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builds character posted:Interesting. I have an ‘18 450 and Blaise won’t do an xcf or euro map anymore so I recently got a jd tuner because it’d been running crazy hot (particularly on technical trails) and just generally flaming out more than I thought was appropriate. My understanding, fwiw, is that you can’t tune via tps at all anymore on 17+ models. Any other mods you’ve done that you’d recommend? From what I've seen, changing the TPS on the later models has less of an overall adjustment, and if you've got the JD tuner, that should give you all the flexibility you need to get the fueling fixed, so that just leaves you with very fine tuning on the TPS to get the off idle response just right (zero issues once it's actually in the revs, just a "clutch in fist full of throttle from idle while doing trials poo poo" leads to almost 100% flame out). There's no temp gauge on mine, so I'd struggle to tell you if it's running hot or not. Other mods I'd recommend, in order of cost: Nice handguards, Tubliss, Scotts Damper. If i hadn't accidentally hosed up my spark arrestor when removing the screen, I would have retained the stock pipe. Oh, and pro-taper tiedowns - https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Taper-Tie-Downs-BLACK/dp/B009XIP942 Yeah, they're $31 a set. I've got 6 sets cause literally gently caress using any other form of tie down anywhere ever. They're perfection and you should never buy anything else.
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# ¿ Sep 18, 2018 05:32 |
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cursedshitbox posted:DST coming and I'm over the stock piece of poo poo ktm headlight. designed and 3d printed a housing for a pair of baja designs squadron leds. sport beam driving for low, pro driving beam for high. the highbeam switch was modified for both circuits to be on months ago. It retains the factory aiming system as well. fully sik, m8 I welded up some brackets for a buddy's van, but goddamn, I'm starting to have bad thoughts about a 790 Duke.
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# ¿ Sep 28, 2018 07:37 |
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How the gently caress are y'all bending riveters? I've used the same lovely STOCKTON TOOL one for like, a decade (identical to the Aliexpress one). I do grind the heads off before I push them through but mostly cause I'm not an rear end in a top hat and it's like 30 seconds with an angle grinder. Beyond that, it's press on the side plate, run the rivet spreader attachment until it's just barely flush with the head of the rivet and you're done. I've even once accidentally split the top of the rivet cause I overdid it with the tool, still never hosed up the riveter or bent the tool itself.
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# ¿ Feb 6, 2019 06:50 |
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Slavvy you talk about Honda being good but have you ever worked on a Honda RC51? I've never worked on a Honda where there wasn't some insanely dumb loving bullshit required. You've got these from day one doing poo poo like the CX500/650 stators. The problem with Honda is that they have their engine folks do the engine work, and then the frame people do the frame work and then suddenly you have the Honda 929, where they put a frame crossbar over the spark plugs, or the VFR800 where the common technique to deal with the valve adjustment is "remove engine, throw in trash, purchase ebay engine, install", because the book time for the VTEC models is something staggeringly dumb. RIP to the goon who's missing out on a 701, those motors are fine and the bikes are rad.
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# ¿ Aug 19, 2019 02:17 |
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# ¿ May 13, 2024 02:36 |
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Slavvy posted:They do lots of dumb insane bullshit, especially during their psychedelic 90's peak, but it's nowhere near KTM/BMW levels and they hardly ever break by comparison. Admittedly I've only worked on the S1000XR, but the R motor platform isn't bad, and the Boxers seem okay for most stuff except gently caress doing a clutch ever. Or final drives. But shaft drives are banned from the eyes of god so whatever. I'm pretty curious though about what you don't like about KTMs - in all the ones I've worked on, they've definitely got some weird poo poo (why so many filters? DURPKAR) and the early LC4 oil change procedure is absurd due to the dry sump setup, but everything 1190/later architecture seems fine and the 950/990 motors are stout as poo poo with a couple of known maintenance items. Besides that, their dirtbikes are amazing to work on because there's an expectation you have to fix it on the side of the desert unaided, and I've never been unhappy about working on any of the 690s.
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# ¿ Aug 20, 2019 06:34 |