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Finally coated the inside of my gas tank with Caswell, and installed my new turn signals/brake lights. Started off sunny then got freaking freezing outside, oh well. Why, Enfield, why do you switch the ground for the turn signals but the +POS for the brake light? WHAT IS THE REASON FOR THIS INSANITY?    
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Jan 23, 2011 06:17
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Put some small generic bags on the REnfield; I like the look more than the original ammo cans. Ignore the oil spew, that's the breather doing it's thing after I overfilled the oil. The bike tells me where it wants the oil level to be, not the other way around, apparently.  I also painted the kneepad logos with some white epoxy, and removed and plugged the electric starter and assorted bits. Cut wiring on the bike down by half. I did take it up this hill:  It's the Old Spiral Highway right outside of Lewiston, ID (a few hours from where I am). The road rises 2,000 feet in eight very twisty miles, is almost always deserted, and has near-perfect asphalt. The road has a speed limit of only 35mph, but the REnfield makes up it's lack of horsepower with an abundance of torque, so cruising at 35-40 in third gear at 3,000 RPM is very...fulfilling. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 08:43 on Jan 30, 2011 |
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Jan 30, 2011 08:28
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After taking my first big trip last week, I discovered that all the jokes about thumpers shaking themselves apart aren't jokes; they're instructions. One tube of red and one tube of purple permatex later, and I don't think my brake light assembly, the footpegs, rear subframe bolts, or kickstand are going to fall off anymore. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Feb 7, 2011 |
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Feb 7, 2011 07:32
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I had an incident with a traffic cone awhile back that ended up costing me a few spokes. Today I exacted my revenge  What does this have to do with my bike TODAY? Today I had to replace more spokes, as two months later the spokes opposite of the earlier broken ones snapped. I just need to pay someone $100 and have the tire rethreaded. Screw this noise.
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Feb 8, 2011 09:40
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I put on one of these:
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Apr 4, 2011 23:40
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Changed out my ancient (in both design and manufacture) rear tire for a new one. Traded an AVON SM MKII for a KENDA K671. http://geirskogul.imgur.com/enfield_tire_change_2011
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Apr 9, 2011 00:49
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Vice Grips are key if you run an older bike or am as hamfisted as I am. Better to get the bolt out and have to buy a new one than never get it out or round it off and give up. Kudos.
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Apr 9, 2011 03:38
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@ BradleyJamers, check compression on both the cold and the warm engine. Valves that are too tight will become worse as the engine warms and they may not close all the way, and valves that are too loose will be noisy cold. When riding down the road, I stopped at a light and a bub pulled up next to me and yelled "sounds like you've got a loose valve! It's quite noisy!" and I replied "Just one? Something must be wrong." My Enfield prefers slightly looser valves compared to other manufacturers. I know when they're too tight because I get less resistance with the kickstarter because they're not closing all the way. Oh my did I type a post about tappets and pushrods?
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Apr 10, 2011 08:51
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Forty Two posted:You definitely got your moneys worth out of that tire, drat
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Apr 11, 2011 18:49
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If you do it wrong it's as ugly as sin, but if you do it right, you can run two clutch cables side-by-side and if one breaks you just pop the ends of the other one on without it looking garish. You can even lube the second one up really nicely and cap/seal the ends with some plastic and zipties/bands so it doesn't have a problem with moisture. On my Enfield, a clutch cable lasts between 3,000 and 10,000 miles (mean is 8,000) so it's handy to do. I'm the "intermittent-lazy-type," where I want to both do as little as possible, but also be super-prepared for later, because I know later I will want to do as little as possible. So, for things that are a major pain to do (clutch cable, ball-ramp throwout [known cracking problem on enfields], turn signal bulbs that are inside Pandora's bulb-retention mechanism) I over-engineer them (spare cable alongside existing, reinforce back sides of ramps on mechanism, LED-ify all the bulbs) so I don't have to gently caress with it later. Strangely, I haven't done it with the throttle cable, but I think internally that's for two reasons. One, the throttle cable isn't under as much stress as the clutch cable, and two, it's just about as easy to manually turn the carb's throttle by hand for a 30-mile trip as it would be to change out the carb end of the cable with all the proper tools in a shop (srsly, Mikuni? gently caress your throttle attachment mechanism). It's another balance of laziness now versus laziness later.
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Apr 21, 2011 10:58
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The cool thing about Krylon Fusion on most plastics is that it dyes the plastic underneath, so even if the top paintish coating chips or scratches away the plastic underneath is the same color so it's not as noticeable.
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Apr 30, 2011 22:20
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The worst ENFIELDS don't look that bad on the first oil change, and the original engine pistons were fit by an Indian dude measuring pressure with his thumb. Holy cow
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May 4, 2011 03:56
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Aftermarket fuel pump with a secondary "trap door" activated by a button that can squirt fuel directly into the air intake for EXTRA POWAH
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May 4, 2011 20:41
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BradleyJamers posted:Yea, it's a wet sump. The GS500 has a dipstick, which is more of a pain than a sight glass, so they were probably being extra lazy. Could be a pain like mine, where it's both wet and dry sump, and if you let it sit for more than a few minutes half of the oil drains to the crankcase. Fucker never lets you check the proper oil level.
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May 5, 2011 01:01
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WWWWWWWWWWAAAAAAAAAAAAALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL OF TTTTTEEEEEEEEEEXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXTTTTTTT Yesterday I finished tuning my carburetor so it idled properly, and I replaced my battery (7AH SLA I have in the RH toolbox) because the battery decided to blow a cell. No big deal, carbs need tuning and batteries don't appreciate the Bullet's vibration. I understand that. Today, however, I would almost think it was intentional. I was travelling to a friend's house that's in a town 40 miles over. Easy riding, four lane highway with farmland on either side. The rain was pretty bad, but I've got wet weather gear and good tires, so that's not an issue either. Plus, the Bullet is my only vehicle, so I can't exactly take a cage when things get wet. Just past halfway to his house, my battery (the new one I put in yesterday) decides that both it's mount and the toolbox are too restrictive and stifling and makes a break for it, just as I crest a long, steep hill. Broke both the latch on the box and it's mount and just flew out at 65mph into nothingness. Now, I didn't know exactly what happened and thought my ignition switch was wonky, so I fiddled with the key and dropped through the gears, while I coasted down on the shoulder. When I stopped at the bottom and dismounted, I saw that the toolbox was open (latch broken) and the battery was nowhere to be found, so I started walking back up the exactly-one-mile-long hill (I stopped at a mile marker, and there was another one at the peak) to search for the battery. About halfway up, a highway trooper pulls over and I explained what happened. He and I then spent the next 45 minutes searching alongside the road and the steep embankment, while the rain continued to pour. We found nothing by the time we crested the hill, so he made sure I was okay and left. A ways back down the hill, I spotted a funny-lookin' rock about 10 meters past a barbed wire fence that separated the embankment and a field. As I head down the hill towards the fence, I remembered why these fields haven't been plowed yet this year; due to crazy rainfall, the mud is so deep that even tractors have gotten stuck. Dang. Eventually, I crossed the fence and retrieved my cracked, battered battery, and dragged my mud-soaked self back to the bike. After installing the battery and bungeeing the toolbox closed, I was surprised to find the bike started, and showed 13.5 volts! Jolly good. For a bit. Five or ten miles down the road, after the highway merges back into two lanes, my bike started puttering out intermittently, and all my lights went dark. I checked, and the battery was still there. I was getting about 50% of the spark that I should, so I putter along (25mph or so, I think, because my speedo had gone black) until I found another place to pull off to the side. Thankfully, a good chap pulled in behind me, and offered to help. He shut his car off, and connected his jumper cables to my bike just to make sure it wasn't a battery problem. Sadly, no, it wasn't. Even with his car connected, I still didn't get proper lights, and the speedo stayed dark. After stopping, I couldn't restart the bike, either. Strangely, when I hit the right turn signal, my brake light blinked, and when I hit the left turn signal, the ammeter showed full discharge (short). Dang, water must have gotten somewhere. As the gentleman who helped me pulled out, the EXACT SAME state trooper from before pulled in, and the first words out of his mouth were "You're not having a good day, are you?" No, sir, I am not. I ended up phoning a friend, who is willing to pick me up. Thankfully, last time I visited I inadvertently ended up leaving a spare battery at his place, in case one of our weekends of games and drinking ended with the Bullet flat. While I waited for him (about 1.5 hours total, his ex had the car, and she was hard to get a hold of), I disconnected everything that the bike didn't need to run. Speedo, speed sensor, whole rear taillight wire harness, clutch switch, neutral light, the front indicators, etc etc. I didn't know exactly where the water/short was, but I didn't want to have to go get a pickup and haul the bike back home. Also, by the time he arrived, the "60 MPH battery" had gone almost dead, either from me troubleshooting, or the fact that AGM cells were exposed to air for two hours. When he arrived, we put the spare battery in, and the Bullet started on the second or third kick. I ended up following his Prius (because my speedo still wasn't working) back to my place. Now it sits in the driveway, waiting for me to rewire the damned thing so this poo poo doesn't happen again. I guess the people who made my bike have never heard of waterproofing. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 07:41 on May 13, 2011 |
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May 13, 2011 07:30
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Welp, started fab on a new lock for my battery box/toolbox, and made a proper battery mount so it would stay in there even if there was NO door on the toolbox. I'll update this post as I complete things - need to do certain things this week but it's raining like a bitch. 1. Disassemble bike. Take. Apart. Everything! 2. Drill holes in backbone and base for wires. I don't like the gas tank squishing the harness. 3. Rewire the bike. This is the big one, I predict 12 hours, even for the simple Enfield. 4. Reassemble the bike. Don't forget to make proper mud/rain shields this time. EXTRA CREDIT: EC1: New brake pads on parent's pickup (2004 Ram) EC2: Oil change same pickup. Oil/filter already purchased. EC4: Make new front turn signals for Enfield. I ripped out the old ones in case they were shorted out on my last wall-o-text adventure a few posts back. While SWIM hasn't gone to college yet, SWIM has a small supply of Ritalin a friend gave that was left over after their finals. I'm thinking...wiring day. That's going to SSSSUUUUCCCKKKK no matter how you slice it. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 11:23 on May 19, 2011 |
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May 16, 2011 09:26
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-Inu- posted:I changed my sprockets. And chain too, right? But...did you never use lube or anything? Or high-performance wheelie-machining?
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May 17, 2011 08:52
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ChiTownEddie posted:Today I left the full lanyard on my keys and melted a bunch of (orange) stuff to one of my exhaust pipes. Sweet work Eddie. I did that a few weeks back. Went to put the lanyard back around my neck and went "wtf why is the plastic all sharp?"
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May 17, 2011 21:59
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I have to adjust the valves on my bike every 500-1,000 miles. At least the adjusters are behind ONE BOLT. lovely bike but easy maintenance.
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May 19, 2011 22:07
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I don't know, it has a sort of 40's steamworks/gas pipeline feel to it, with the red and blue. Keep going, man. Don't listen to the haters.
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Jun 3, 2011 21:07
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I ride an Enfield, what's a wheelie? On another note, though, I am just finishing up rewiring my bike. Moving the main harness inside the backbone, and paring it down to 9 wires with frame ground instead of 35 wires with some frame ground. Did you know that Enfield India uses 22 AWG wire for their headlights? That's right, 12 volts at 3 amps through 22 gauge wire. The same goes for the coil, all the handlebar switches, AND the main wire from the battery. How did they not catch fire I will never know. Niiiiiice. Entire bike is now no less than 14 gauge, and all signals etc are LED to help the 65-75W alternator at stop lights.
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Jun 6, 2011 05:47
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I started with baby powder, but I had to move to soapwater by the end as it was too humid and greasy for the powder to keep things slipping.
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Jun 19, 2011 23:12
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I did the first of my now-twice-yearly WD-40 wipedowns to try to keep the bike from rusting as fast as it is. Freakin' Indian potmetal construction  I also changed the oil to get the summer blend in there (10W-40 and 30W 50/50), put on my new speedometer, and did some tidying up with the wires. Yes, the tank is a different color. It originally had horrible PAPER "Royal Enfield" decals, and when I took them off a month or so after buying the bike the paint had faded so much that you could still read it. No UV protection at all. I wouldn't be surprised if it was NOS WWII paint they found in a shed. Even though it only lasts a few days at most, I really like the shiny look a WD-40 wipedown gives it. Sorry for the cell-phone pics. http://geirskogul.imgur.com/summer_cleaning 
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Jun 23, 2011 03:38
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I'll keep the ACF-50 and anti-corrosion wax ideas in mind. This morning, before the heat has had a chance to come out, I drained and replaced the gearbox grease, and changed the primary oil. The gearbox was full of plain #00 grease, mostly because the older models don't have sealed shaft bearings. While I was changing the primary oil, I had a look at the bearings on the clutch shaft, and found that they were actual sealed bearings, so I took it upon myself to change that crap out for some 90-110W gear oil. Whaddya know, I can shift gears without it going "CLANK" every time, now. Also filled the primary with ATF-F - still lubricates like plain 30W oil, but is a tiny bit "grippier" so maybe I won't have too much clutch slip climbing steep hills. Here's an abbreviated list of some of the things that have gone wrong with it: Wiring harness caught fire, leaving me stranded, in the rain, 30 miles from home. Had to do a total rewire (check out the geirskogul.imgur.com link - there's pics). That same day, before the wiring harness fire, the battery decided it wanted to be free, and ejected at 65mph on the highway. State trooper and I spent an hour looking for it on the side of the road. Rear brake works better than the front, even though the front is TLS and the rear is SLS. Still haven't figured that one out. Four months into owning it, the engine started having massive blowby and breather problems. I sent it to the dealer for work, and I didn't get it back until eight months later, apparently with almost all new internals (piston, rod, crank, etc). It still had the exact same problem, so I hounded, pleaded, and ended up yelling for a fix. Six (!) months again later, and it had a new engine, because they couldn't figure out what was wrong with the original; that's why the engine is a different color in my photos. Doesn't help that the new engine doesn't have a VIN engraved, which made it a bitch to register. Only time in my life I can honestly thank how backwards Idaho is. Aforementioned paper decals on the tank. PAPER. The tires it came with were years old (again, check the geirskogul.imgur.com link) when I purchased it, and must have sat in the sun for those few years. They were so cracked and hard. The alternator is something like 80 watts peak, and at or near idle it's more like 40 watts. Doesn't help that the bike will run for months without ever hitting 3,500 RPM. My headlight is 65 watts, so I had to convert everything else to LED and low-power equivalents to keep it from discharging 100% of the time. Turns out the crap voltage regulator WILL run without a reference voltage, like the battery. It simply puts out DC-rectified straight alternator voltage when there's no reference, though. That's what probably led to my wiring harness fire the day my battery took a plunge. It was still worth the full re-wire, though, because the stock harness was made up of more than 30 24-and-smaller gauge wires running to and fro. It was also full of water (?). All this being said, it is my only mode of transportation, and when something goes wrong it is a pretty simple bike to fix. I also get post-it notes stuck to the tank every other day at the gym from older gentlemen asking where I bought it. So, if you can find one for a reasonable price, like a year or two old model, go for it. They've got a two-year unlimited-mileage warranty, so break all you can within that first year and you're golden.
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Jun 23, 2011 17:42
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Probably adjusted too tight, actually. The trick is, after you get it on the centerstand, you have to weigh it down and compress the suspension. If you adjust it to "proper" tightness with the suspension extended, then compress it during a bump, you can snap your chain or break sprocket teeth.
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Jun 30, 2011 05:56
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That happens. In fact, just last week (wednesday or so) I hopped on my Enfield to go to the gym, and just three or four blocks downhill the bike sputters and dies. Now, I did have my fuel tap on for this first death, it was simply a fouled spark plug (my Enfield eats spark plugs like your DOHC eats oem batteries, fact of life). I run back up to my house, because for whatever reason I don't have a spare plug on the bike. Run back down the four blocks, change the plug out, and decide to head straight back to the house to grab something. Turn the corner in the driveway and the bike dies, again. FFFFUUUUCCCCKKK. Remove the new plug, check it for fouling, try to kick the bike over for 10 minutes, then realize I turned the fuel tap off when I change the plug out. Only after a severe self-dopeslap do I head back out to the gym.
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Jul 12, 2011 10:08
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Does anyone else just put a piece of clear hosing, like an aquarium air line or something, on the brake nub to bleed that way? It's pretty simple and about 10x cheaper...
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Jul 21, 2011 01:10
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the walkin dude posted:Those things prevent air from going back into the bleed-hole. And they make the job much more faster, from what I read. That's what I use the clear tube for. Clear tube on the breather hole, straight up a few feet (or pushed awkwardly somewhere into the frame if I forgot to grab a rubber band or something). Put fluid in reservoir, squeeze brake/depress brake pedal, air bleeds into the tube and rises, leaving only fluid near the bleed nipple. Tighten, done. Never taken more than 10 minutes per wheel, usually less. Or am I doing it wrong? Honestly want to know. 
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Jul 21, 2011 01:46
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ReelBigLizard posted:Yeah I usually use a piece a little over 2m and loop it up over the handlebars and back down into a recepticle. As fluid is relatively cheap I usually just flush the whole lot, clear tubing means you can easily see when it's coming out bright and clear. Works great for me but I only have a single caliper front and rear, it's a pretty easy system to bleed. Protip: in aquarium shops, you can get the clear tubing AND little T and X fittings for them in the perfect size for brake bleeding, so on multi-caliper setups that have individual nipples, you hook up one 2-foot piece of tubing to each, then connect them together for one main bleed hose. It looks a bit wonky, but you can then just pinch or clothespin the individual hoses for whichever area you want pressure out of. Plus, it's cheap enough you just make one for each setup and throw it in a bag or something when you're done. I do like your idea for complete flushing - I haven't ever done a full flush on any vehicle myself, but seems pretty okay with that setup.
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Jul 21, 2011 08:02
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I changed my primary oil today. Year-old ATF-F with bits of cork and chain dust stewing in it on a 110 degree day doesn't smell nice at all. Also, it had turned brown from it's original hyper-cherry-red color. On the plus side, my alternator is no longer as dodgy as it was. Must have been a lot of dissolved ferrous material in the oil?
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Jul 31, 2011 05:30
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ReelBigLizard posted:Can't re-thread or helicoil? Probably too small/thin/awkwardly positioned to time-sert or helicoil. I've been in that position with small fiddly poo poo inside my transmission or primary.
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Aug 3, 2011 10:23
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AnnoyBot posted:Finally connected with a craigslist "free goldwing stuff" seller. It was weird and also a jackpot. Your story kind of went from  to  then to  . Guiltiest free parts ever.
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Aug 10, 2011 07:12
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Interestingly fuel economy went into the toilet during this period. Last week was 48mpg, the first half of the ride was 44, then 42, then 41 for the last 100 miles. You said that the O-rings failed, and that explains it enough. Imagine you're a person running this chain through your hands, and for every link that passes through your fingers you have to grab it and bend it to the appropriate angle before you can move onto the next one. Now, at first, the chain has good O-rings, so every joint is nicely oiled and bends freely. But after awhile, the seals fail, and oil leaks out of the joints in the chain links. Sure, every hundred miles or so a dude comes along and sprays the chain you're holding with oil, and the links become a little easier to bend. But, since the seals have failed, very quickly they regain that slightest resistance again. As you move the chain through, more oil drains out and dirt gets in, and they're ever-so-slightly more difficult to bend. Pulling the chain and bending the links individually is very easy, even when the seals have failed, but your engine is doing that four times for each circumference of the chain (as it latches onto, and then exits, both sprockets) thousands and thousands of times a minute. A 4mpg drop is pretty understandable. My Enfield can't run o-ring or x-ring chains, as they're all too wide to fit through the primary case. When I installed an "automatic chain oiler" (really I redirected the crank blowby oil, a drop or so a mile of oil mist, onto the chain) I gained a few MPG at first, because before I just had sprayed ATF or whatever I had onto it every hundred miles or so.
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Aug 15, 2011 06:33
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All day yesterday and today, a friend and I tore down his Honda CM250's engine as far as we could go without cracking the case, cleaned everything, painted the cylinder, head, and valve cover, and reassembled the thing. I hate OHC timing chains (and timing in general), but I also hate having to adjust pushrods, so we'll call it even; one hour of fiddling to get the chain and sprocket on and timed correctly, versus two years of 5-minute tappet adjustments on my bike.
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Aug 19, 2011 01:14
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Eh, I'd second a rat rod bike. When doing some HEAVY bondo/sanding work on a friend's motorcycle tank for his CM250, we were both tempted to clear coat it right after the bondo was sanded down. Splotches of bare metal, primer, bondo, with rings of the old paint in between can look drat sexy. Plus, a Triumph with a large, flat Ducati/Cafe style headlight would be sweet. Triumph just screams "sleeper bike" to me.
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Aug 23, 2011 23:33
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Okay, I know that sport bike looks are "ruined" by crash bars, but I'm thankful every time I've dropped my bike because of those damned butterfly bars and the rear pannier bars. Instead of "shift lever" this and "brake pedal" that, it's "welp, time to hit up Home Depot and buy a $4 can of spray paint again" for my frame guards.
Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Aug 26, 2011 |
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Aug 26, 2011 09:21
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The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > Cycle Asylum > You were how redneck with your ride today? I don't own a spring compressor, either, but I've found a combination of zip ties, channel locks, and vice grips will get most springs compressed for me, if they're installed in the vehicle. I'll weigh down the motorcycle to compress the shock, zip-tie the springs together (in multiple places, obviously)), let the shock out again, and use vice grips or channel locks on the base as a kind of washer. Then I'll compress and zip-tie them again until they're compressed enough for whatever. On bigger vehicles, like cars, I've done the same thing, but either with those metal reusable zip-ties (which really aren't zip ties, more like locking chains), or a combination of various tools as the spring holders. I also tape up the pliers before use so they don't scratch new shocks, but if they're old lovely ones I don't give a crap. Now, I never said any of this was safe.
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Sep 1, 2011 10:12
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:OH MY gently caress!!! No, not me, and I've never seen that video before. But if I had, I would have just posted a link to it, with maybe a "use like 3 times as many zip ties as that guy did," because I have SOME semblance of safety. Some. EDIT: though now that I've finished the video, there are many things I WOULD NOT have done, like grab the spring directly with vice grips. Bad people, bad!
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Sep 1, 2011 19:49
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Thieves make my blood boil - I wish you got the number plate so I could hunt them down myself (ITG translation: try to google them a bit then give up, but still...) Today, I set out to solve my leaky left fork. I've noticed that, for a few months now, my upper left fork cover has had a sheen to it, and stuck dead mosquitoes that I have to clean off, where the right fork is bone dry. The bike is two years old, but I told myself even sealed oil seals can fail early. NOPE Turns out that the Enfield forks aren't clamped to the top yoke, they screw in. The caps on top of the casquette serve two purposes - they're where you fill your fork oil, like in any other USD telescopic fork, AND they're also where you put a half-inch allen socket to screw the forks into the yoke. My left fork tube had somehow unscrewed itself over time. I also searched high and low for a half-inch allen socket/wrench, but such a thing only exists in speciality brake service kits, and I'm not willing to pay $30 for an otherwise useless kit. Instead, I found a bolt in my collection that had a 1/2" head to it, put a few nuts on the other end, and used it to screw the fork back in. It took about seven full turns before it tightened up, which equals about 3/4 of a centimeter in total length. I bet not having a pressurized chamber on half of the front suspension is also what caused my shimmying on the highway, besides the short wheelbase itself.
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Sep 4, 2011 06:59
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Spanking Giraffe posted:Happy high speed wobble. I haven't had a chance to take it out on the highway yet (Labor Day weekend - avoiding traffic), but the front moves smoothly now. It used to bind on the rebound about halfway back.
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Sep 4, 2011 18:25
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