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Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Nidhg00670000 posted:

A thought that I had today while tensioning my chain; Considering how long ago it was information of that kind was printed in owners' manuals for cars, I wonder when they'll stop printing instructions for basic service procedures in motorcycle manuals?

That's already been the case for several years, it just depends on the bike

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Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

That is textbook lean running turning the spark plug into a gas torch yeah

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

opengl posted:

This is one of those super small jobs you normally ignore, but my OCD will not allow it. The side stand on the 919 was super gummy and wouldn't spring into the upright position, you'd have to guide it all the way up with your foot. Bringing it down was also gummy and not smooth feeling.

Disassembled, cleaned, greased up. That thing snaps right up now. Awww yeah.

I check for this and do it if it needs doing every time I service a bike, same with the hand and foot controls

It makes people think you're a sorcerer

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Those appear to be tyres

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

RightClickSaveAs posted:

e: for actual what did I do, took the horn off the Ninja 400 just before the latest track day. It was activating at around 8k-9k RPM and really annoying. I think this will turn into a dedicated track bike through attrition, especially if it ever goes down and any OEM fairings get sacrificed.

Lol this is hilarious, I guess it was vibration actuating the relay or something?

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Worked on this today



Aprilia dorso 750

Never ridden one before, surprisingly fun! Not really at the same level of single minded commitment as a hypermotard but nonetheless a really good mix of civilized ease of use and zippy pitchy goodness

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Basically every Aprilia I encounter, I can't really think of a reason you'd want it over the equivalent Ducati

The only time this hasn't been the case is with scooters, they make some sweet sport scooters

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Toe Rag posted:

Nope, one side is just a spring :shrug: There's a fiche diagram of each fork internals in the quoted post. Although it dawned on me while the damped fork feels OK to me, a rube, I realized it needs to have twice as much damping since the other side has nothing. Anyway I fixed my garage door and had the shop change out the springs and oil. The OE springs are 11 N/mm, and the new springs are 14 N/mm. With 118mm of travel, math tells me the bike is still underrsprung. He reduced the air gap from 130mm to 100mm to help resist bottoming out. He said the cartridge was sealed so he didn't look at the valving. Does this mean it's non serviceable, sort of like a cheap shock?

I would not get super hung up on numbers when it comes to that stuff. Numbers lie and cheat and sell you a bridge in London, only trust your fists feels. The bike may be undersprung when braking perfectly upright, but will likely be better in other areas, it is a compromise and there is no absolutely correct number. It is possible to take apart some 'sealed' cartridges depending on how much effort and know-how you're willing to put in, in your situation there is likely a drop-in insert that replaces the whole rod and everything. Regardless with damping there is even less of a right number than springing, you really need to establish exactly what you want the bike to do differently, you won't get anywhere just trying to make it better in some vague generalised way.

Just moving to an aftermarket shock will drastically open up your setup options so you can fool around with stuff and see what sort of behaviour you prefer, the vast majority of setup changes are done with the rear anyway. It sets the general tone of the bike.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

TotalLossBrain posted:

Oh that reminds me, I saw dry rot on my Vee's front tire.
Any recommendations for a good front tire for Pacific Northwest riding? Asphalt only.
I've got a Battlax 32 or something on the rear. It's got a bit more life, only 5400 miles

I would suggest a Bridgestone something on the front, mixing tyre brands usually leads to bullshit handling behaviour

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

One weird trick your neighbours hate!

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

builds character posted:

It's interesting because on dirt it seems like everyone spends so much more time with the front forks and dialing them in than with the rear. Which makes sense if they're constantly soaking up bumps and deflections in a way that smooth(ish) pavement just doesn't require.

The front is important don't get me wrong, but it can't really change the fundamental balance of the bike the way fooling around with the rear can. Like eg if you want a stop-go bike you make that happen with shock and geometry decisions, then you spring and damp the front to match. The fundamental thing is to get the balance of the bike right for your weight and preferences, then you tune things for the lines you want to ride based on your tyres and technique and circumstance, and after that you get the front right so as to get the maximum feedback and control. At high levels there is the question of ~*feel*~ but that's one of those things that is both drastically overstated in importance by amateurs and is also heavily influenced by things like tyres, frame design, the construction of the triple clamps and fork outers themselves all working in concert.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

I'd pick rides well but looks crap over rides crap but looks great

Ideally you'd have both but yeah I'm there for the riding dynamics foremost

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

I'd assume it were crashed and repaired, but I'll add that having stickers on one and not the other would draw my attention really quickly initially, only then would I notice the difference in colour.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

No. 6 posted:

Gonna start a shoe company called Helmeti

:lol:

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

prukinski posted:

So, to remove the shock from an MTS1100 (and presumably, a bunch of other ducatis with SSSAs) you have to extract the 80ish millimeter bolt that attaches the bottom of the shock through a 100ish millimeter void in the swingarm.

(As in, access is through two small holes in the swingarm - you stick an allen key through and gingerly pull the bolt out through the inside of the swingarm.)

As you can imagine, there's some potential for error here. It doesn't take much for the bolt to fall off a long allen key, and part of the procedure involves the bolt just hanging out inside the swingarm with nothing really supporting it as you pull it through. The holes you're doing this through are barely wider than the diameter of the bolt.

Anyway, last night I was remounting my shock after a rebuild and lost the bolt in the swingarm, and the end of my pickup tool that I sent in after it.

Cue six hours of keyhole surgery involving a couple of rare earth magnets heat-shrunk to a zip tie (for a flexible fishing implement), a boroscope, a couple of bamboo bbq skewers, and the extremely slow accrual of knowledge about how to manipulate the lost pickup, and then the bolt, so they'd fit out of the tiny loving holes in the swingarm.

Anyway, if anyone needs their appendix out I'm pretty confident I can do it now.

Lmao I've often wondered what happens if you gently caress up and let it fall in and now I know. Incredible.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

I'd argue humans are easier cause any accidental swarf you drop in there when cutting just gets absorbed

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Remy Marathe posted:


It doesn't look too bad if you aren't looking right at it.

Thread title

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

I admire your dedication to keeping that POS in perfect working order, it reminds me of the sorts things audi people do

You got pretty lucky with that flywheel I've gotta say

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

You'd just get bored

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

TotalLossBrain posted:

I'm going to hell.

Yup

Maybe it's lodged in the bowels of the bike somewhere?

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Lmao

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Phy posted:

My first car was a Ford Probe and iirc this did occasionally happen in the areas of the car that weren't just a Mazda 626

The probe wasn't a 626 it was an mx6 :colbert:

cursedshitbox posted:

lololololo

80s through 00s domestics were so bad.
GM ime being the worst offender. There's a sub assembly with 8 bolts. 4 imperial, 3 metric. The metric is a very different size. Do not be surprised if there's a dusting of random sizes.

This stupid farm truck of mine is from this era. has an imperial engine. Metric transmission and Transfercase. Front axle is imperial. Rear axle is metric. The chassis is a dusting of both. It's infuriating to work on. It'll have 12 and 15mm alongside 5/8 and such. The dash is rife with 7mm and 5/16 fasteners.

Just the existence of 7mm fasteners is enraging. 6 and 8 are right loving there you scum

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

That's a suspiciously European looking connector

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Yeah I'm referring to the heads. I have also encountered x.5mm screws, my old e23 bmw had iirc 6.5mm hex screws for some stuff

Fun fact: on some bikes, the cylinder head studs have rolled on threads and are 9mm diameter :getin:

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

shacked up with Brenda posted:

Unless they start poorly I wouldn't.

Personally I think doing stuff before it becomes a potentially damaging problem is the way to go

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Burned valve seats usually

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

?? If your clearances are tight enough to make the bike hard to start, it's already doing valve and seat damage. So you check the clearances periodically to prevent it getting to that point. Idk what else to say.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

:shrug:

The absolute cornucopia of heads I've had to rebuild because people only started to care when the bike got hard to start disagree

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

shacked up with Brenda posted:

Nice nice

This is the second set of posts you've made in response to me that I've shared around the shop lol

Cool man

cursedshitbox posted:

It's totally a thing.
It depends on the construction and metallurgy of the valve. Sodium filled valves are more 50/50 with the valve guide and valve seat sharing the sink. Solid valves rely heavily on the valve seat sinking the heat. They're not really popular in high power densities and turbo applications because of such.

There's an entire science behind cutting valves and seats for minimal turbulence and maximum heat transfer. The grind, angles, and number of cuts influences heat dissipation. This is a whole topic on its own.

Engines with poorly designed valve seats are known to drop them at the first inkling of running coolant warm. ie: Third generation Chrysler Hemis.
5 valve Yamahas and Ti valved Hondas are sensitive to valve lash and will absolutely burn a valve before it shows much in the way of symptoms.




https://www.eaton.com/de/de-de/catalog/engine-valvetrain/engine-valves.html
https://www.aopa.org/news-and-media/all-news/2022/may/pilot/savvy-maintenance-failure-to-rotate

Yeah. Everything with titanium valves is insanely sensitive to tight clearances from what I've seen.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

helno posted:

whitworth

Unspeakable horror

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

The OEM parts are also Chinese :ssh:

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Putting the motor just that couple of hundred revs higher at any given speed/gear can do wonders for comfort though, Ducati tend to go for really chuggy gears on the air cooled engine.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

some kinda jackal posted:

Finally buttoned up the RS!



Workshop is a hot tiny mess, but you work in the space you have available to you, not the one you wish you had.

Just need to do an oil change and replace the brakes and it's off to safety/register.

Have a windshield and mirrors on the way. Also got a replacement cap for the mangled ignition switch cylinder but that requires removing the whole fork bridge and drilling out the cylinder's security bolts so I'm all "ehh" since it's just cosmetic. But since I have some time to kill I might as well.

I'd love to pull the valve cover and give it a re-spray since it's bubbling, but that will definitely wait.

As I was putting it together I found myself trying to rationalize why the fairings are held together with four dzus quick release fasteners and then 4 other regular screws. I could... not... rationalize it :haw:

BMW cargo culting stuff they don't understand by aping people who know what they're doing

See also: the s1000 having tilting fuel tank mounts like a Fireblade when the tank can't actually tilt because the airbox is in the way

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

A few small steel shavings are usually just gearbox debris and not worth worrying about

Alloy shavings are usually bad news, alloy dust is usually piston wear

Anything brassy or copper coloured is :rip:

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

I like how the design principles of the dash and the watch are basically the same but the watch is executed so much better

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Bar risers + lowering kit = should've just bought a cruiser

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

One of the saddest bikes I've ever seen was an R1 with bar risers, lowering pegs, an extra screen and a full set of panniers

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Phy posted:

Mighta been cheaper to source some lower fairings for an fz1, gently caress

But then how would you brag to all the other uncles at the pub about your R1 that can do 200mph?

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Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

It's the taking a nice thing and wrecking it that sucks but you do you

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