|
Marxalot posted:
You keep saying this but those aren't OEM parts, stop blaming the bike for your poor accessory attachment skills.
|
#
¿
Mar 10, 2016 18:18
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 15, 2024 10:44 |
|
|
Not today but last saturday i put bar risers and a new chain and sprockets on my DRZ. Then later that day i took off from a petrol station with my sidestand down, got to a roundabout and was unable to turn left, so i went straight over it at 55mph and blew both my tyres. I think on any other type of bike i'd have come out of that much worse. Video of my old chain vs new and my back wheel post misadventure: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j4spHXHoNF0
|
|
#
¿
Jun 9, 2016 20:51
|
|
|
No. 6 posted:This is why a side-stand kill-switch is important. Not on the DRZ, your foot hits the stand when you're standing on the pegs and cuts the engine. After this incident i think i'll rewire it to a warning led, although i doubt i'll ever forget it again.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 10, 2016 19:19
|
|
|
Pinny posted:I bought one of these recently too: http://www.tru-tension.com/chain-monkey/ getting the chain back on and adjusted correctly turned an annoying back and forth job (at least with the adjusters on this bike) into a 5 minute piece of cake. Recommend grabbing one if chain adjustments annoy you too. I got one a few weeks back too, it really takes all the fuckery out of chain set up.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 7, 2016 19:59
|
|
|
Oibignose posted:Next project polish up an old oem exhaust I got on eBay. Stubby ART cans, the most obnoxious things. edit: can't find a pic of it when it was stock. mates 96 Blade, with a crappy r1 race tail on it back in 2008. That color scheme is one of the best.  How it looks now, facing down an unmolested version 
echomadman fucked around with this message at 23:31 on Mar 30, 2020 |
|
#
¿
Mar 30, 2020 23:21
|
|
|
Yerok posted:I have no frame of reference for how big of an issue the old rocker arm bearing design is/was. https://i.imgur.com/xQIW619.jpg https://i.imgur.com/6B1c1nM.jpg
|
|
#
¿
May 20, 2020 20:52
|
|
|
Converted a mates bike from enduro back to supermoto today. Forgot to get a pic with both dirt wheels on.  we fitted up the rear sumo wheel with the 15 year old pirelli to figure out the length we need to cut the new chain to, took it for a spin just t see what they tyre felt like, similar to drift go karts with plastic pipe over the wheels. while it was on i decide to warm it up to make removal easier. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QW-1UjLYH4k My mates wife wasn't particularly impressed. Old and busted off  Shiny and new   Have some fresh tail bodywork to fit still and have to get the Union Jacks off the tank fairings, but its a sweet little bike. basically a DRZ-E motor with an FCR, KTM suspension and Brembo brakes
|
|
#
¿
Jun 27, 2020 23:21
|
|
|
This is also a contender https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Isj0oBjfrxE
|
|
#
¿
Aug 15, 2020 20:03
|
|
|
That ones unironically good though
|
|
#
¿
Aug 16, 2020 01:26
|
|
|
Plasma cut and welded up a stainless flange to mount a GSXR 1000 can on my mates DR650 based supermoto 
|
|
#
¿
Sep 4, 2020 20:45
|
|
|
Previous can was completely blown out and deafening. Gsxr/Busa cans are a common enough upgrade for DR motors, this one has a bigbore so its a 710cc. The gsxr cans flow enough and still keep the volume down They can be got for very little money too as most people upgrade to aftermarkets. I have a Busa can on my DRZ to repalce the stubby Yoshimura it had when I bought it. As i get old i no longer want to have a bike that sets off car alarms. The reason I had to make a new flange was it came off a full Ti system and the existing pipe on his bike is stainless, and a smaller diameter. Its actually two sheets of 1.5 mm stainless welded together as we didnt have anything thicker to hand. Bonus fun shot of plasma cutter piercing a slice of the Ti exhaust pipe https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n2gAt14zQUw
|
|
#
¿
Sep 4, 2020 21:42
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 15, 2024 10:44 |
|
|
I have the same headers on my DRZ and they are an absolute bastard to separate. You've made it harder for yourself by unbolting the downpipe and midpipe before taking the can off. reattach them and it'll make it a little easier to level/hammer the can off. I used an sds drill on hammer mode with a chisel bit that i blunted to seperate the header from the mid pipe by putting a sacrifical pipe over the heatshield stud and hammering it back.  It is also a complete pain in the bollocks to put them back together.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 9, 2021 20:05
|
|