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Drunk Pledge Driver
Nov 10, 2004

Gnaghi posted:

Agreed. I hope to one day get a Street Triple R and have the pleasure of going from this:



to this:



I'd prefer a Speed Triple and a slash cut exhaust :)

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Drunk Pledge Driver
Nov 10, 2004

Shouting Melon posted:

Nooooooo! They just look wrong with all that empty space between the seat and the wheel. :(

Yeah the seats do end up higher than they need to be because of the underseat exhausts and the passenger pegs on the Speed Triples just look stupid too :(

Drunk Pledge Driver
Nov 10, 2004

the walkin dude posted:

I hope that ECU's plug and play?

I just got a CBR1000RR R/R and a wiring kit from D'Ecosse of SVRider. Gotta pick up a soldering gun and learn how to solder before I replace the R/R in my 2000 sv.

Geez that D'Ecosse guy is every where. He sure knows his poo poo though. He has some guides on TriumphRat for making your own speedo sensor and jerry rigging/upgrading your R/R.

Drunk Pledge Driver
Nov 10, 2004
I wish my bike didn't call for 15w50, otherwise I'd run Rotella T in it like I do my Grand National. I just figure cause I mostly ride the bike when it's warm/hot out I shouldn't run something lighter. I run regular car Mobil1 15w50 and it works fine though.

Drunk Pledge Driver
Nov 10, 2004
Got my bike stolen at bike night :toot:



Basically this. WHY WOULD YOU STEAL THIS? ITS A BEAT UP PIECE OF poo poo. Actually been in another wreck since then.

Drunk Pledge Driver
Nov 10, 2004
Picked up my recovered stolen bike








Didn't have comprehensive on it so theft wasn't covered. Bike was pretty beat up already so it wasn't worthwhile. Anyway got it back as you can tell its really beat up now. They stole my rear seat and cowl, battery, fender eliminator + rear signals. The were nice enough to reattach my plate though! Apparently they just pried at the rear left side tail plastic to get to the back side of the lock to unhook the seat latch cable. Rear sets are both broken (left was a D650 one I put on the night before!), kick stand broke off, exhaust can is beat up again, various plastic scrapes, left rocket launcher missing now, right side was missing already. Front fender is smashed so the forks may not be straight :( Ignition was chiseled out so they could run it and have their fun.

Anyway, now hopefully for some help. The bike runs but will not shift. I can tell the clutch cable isn't snapped because it still springs back and what not. Any ideas? I tried tightening it but that didn't seem to help. The indicator on the dash says it is in neutral but the rear wheel is not spinning freely. It's not the rear brake that's locking it up so it must be something in the gearbox?

Drunk Pledge Driver
Nov 10, 2004
I sorted out the shifting... threw my original shifter on, its the direct type and not the linkage type. I literally swapped the linkage shifter on the night before it got stolen too :( I may be able to salvage that somewhat, I think I can bend the rod back and the base plate for the rear set is only like $55 or so. Only problem is the right side base plate is $72ish and probably not worth me buying a replacement as I don't have the heel guard on that side. I currently plan to sell off my street stuff and put my race plastics on for a track only bike but I may consider options to get it back on the street if I can do it cheap enough.

Drunk Pledge Driver
Nov 10, 2004
I'm going to convert it to a race bike since I already have track plastics. My street parts are with a fair amount of money so I'll sell those off so I can buy racing rear sets and a few other bits.

Drunk Pledge Driver
Nov 10, 2004

wilkenm posted:

Finally got around to changing ECU maps on my Street Triple. I've been riding around on the stock map with Akrapoic slip-ons for a month or so, and things didn't feel quite right. So I used the latest Triumph supplied map for their Arrow slip-ons, and things feel 1000% better now.

Total cost: $18 for a ODB2->USB cable from Amazon.

TuneECU rocks, huh? I paid about half that for my cable but I had to wait 2 weeks for it to get here from China.

Drunk Pledge Driver
Nov 10, 2004

babyeatingpsychopath posted:

Apparently, the bandit has a digital speed sensor, that plugs into the transmission case somewhere. Maybe changing sprockets will make it accurate. Based on my timing light and auto-tune, the tach is within a few percent, and the odometer and trip meters are both within <1%, but the speedo still reads 5-15% high. *shrug* doesn't bug me much.

I did put 500 miles on the bike today, and got an all-time high of 52mpg. Time for an oil change and new sprockets!

Unless you're going to give it longer gearing then changing your sprockets won't make it more accurate.

Drunk Pledge Driver
Nov 10, 2004

Rudager posted:

Triumph Sprint 1050 (God I just want to marry the Triumph)

Fixed

Drunk Pledge Driver
Nov 10, 2004

the walkin dude posted:

Did a transition over to Rotella synthetic oil for both SV650s today along with K&N oil filters. I also plated the new one and got to check out the bike's whole body while on the ground... looking good.

2000 SV650: 37k miles
2001 SV650: 32k miles



Tell me about your (BMW XMoto?) headlight.

Drunk Pledge Driver
Nov 10, 2004
I've done it on a much less sturdy ladder so no worries there. I had put the straps just around the top center non-step which was plastic and it held up fine. It wasn't supporting the entire weight of the bike as I was also using a rear stand.

Drunk Pledge Driver
Nov 10, 2004

SaNChEzZ posted:

Not my ride, but while I was in my car driving up a gigantic hill I came across a guy pushing his brand new diavel. His girlfriend was just standing there watching so I got behind with my hazards on so he didn't get hit by a car. It even had the dealer plates on it still :(

Probably didn't have the keys and didn't know the 4 digit code to start the bike up. It's the last 4 of the VIN by default.

Drunk Pledge Driver
Nov 10, 2004
Upgraded my rectifier from the stock shunt style to a Shindengen MOSFET unit. Voltage at idle is now 14.45 and stays constant when I rev the motor. Before it was 13.5 and dropped to 13.2 when revving. Didn't need to do the upgrade but a failing rectifier can take a stator with it and I wanted to avoid that.

Drunk Pledge Driver
Nov 10, 2004

babyeatingpsychopath posted:

Chain and sprockets, almost.

JT front, supersprox rear. DID x-ring chain. My harbor freight chain tool can't push the pins through the plate before I try to set the rivets, so I'm stuck until I get something higher quality.

I took a picture of what came off. I knew it was in stupidly bad shape, and rode it 800 miles before parts showed up.



Points to note: rollers broken off, broken teeth on rear sprocket, horribly hooked front sprocket. I found a couple of rollers in the sprocket cover when I took that off. It sounded really, really, really bad the last few hundred miles.

I used vice grips to get the pins through the plate the first time I did a chain. After that I got the Motion Pro chain tool which works well if you're careful. I've broken the breaker pin and rivet pins though. I think the HF tool is pretty much just for breaking.

Drunk Pledge Driver
Nov 10, 2004

Z3n posted:

In the future, you can jam a screwdriver into the space between the radiator inlet and the rubber hose and work it around and it'll be much easier to remove. The heat cycling and random crap causes stuff to get stuck to itself and its a huge pain to pull off unless you break it loose first :)

Buy the proper tool: http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-radiator-hose-pick-96572.html

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Drunk Pledge Driver
Nov 10, 2004
Oops posted in the wrong thread. I did nothing to my bike because it needs a new battery :\

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