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I bought an 07 WR250F a few weeks back and haven't had too much time to ride it yet other than a few times around the neighborhood. I bought it mostly for woods/trail riding but we have a lot of forest roads out here in Washington so the previous owner also made it street legal to ride those national forest service roads without hassle. When I transferred the title, I kept it plated for street use. I'm trying to get it back to 100% street legal status so that everything is in order (bike wise) when I go take my endorsement test. I've heard they do an inspection of your bike before allowing you to use it for testing, especially for dual sport bikes to ensure they meet street legal requirements. I'm pretty sure the PO used a tusk/baja conversion kit but removed the horn and mirror which are both cheap and easy to replace. I'm also considering a brake switch for the front. The only problem is that the tail light isn't currently functioning as a brake light despite having a switch on the rear. It only runs as a running light and doesn't fluctuate with braking. I would prefer it run with a dimmer running light and a brighter brake light. I tried operating it with the bike off and running and no difference. I'm not sure if its a matter of reconfiguring the three wires coming from the tail light to the three wires of the harness or something possibly wrong with the switch. Brake switch is connected to both rear brake switch connectors. I've pulled the stock wiring diagram for the WR from the owners manual, the wiring diagram for the enduro conversion wiring harness, and for the individual tail light. Whoever wired/rewired this didn't quite meet my idea of "quality craftsmanship" but I'm not about to pull apart all the wiring harnesses and rewire the bike because the wires are longer than ideal and they used tape in certain areas etc. I don't think they even thought to shorten any of the wires, just plugged them in from stock and tied everything up in a giant bundled mess.
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Oct 22, 2018 21:34
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builds character posted:Do you have a multimeter? If yes, you can check to see what's happening when you hit the brakes - if nothing, then it's not that. Did you see this? I do have a multi meter. It was late and it must have been the gas fumes that didn't make me think of using it. I've seen that video, and another almost identical to it. Its hooked up exactly as they describe. The three tail light wires (Yellow/Black/Red) come out of the light and into a plastic housing which goes into another plastic housing (Black/red/black). Two pink rear brake switch wires are connected to the 2 black rear brake switch wires and they have no polarity so its not supposed to matter which goes to which. Everything is hooked up according to how they have it in the diagram. I even unplugged wires in the system to check for faulty connections. Part of me thinks the three brake light wires going into the plastic harness are in the wrong order but I don't want to just start swapping connections all willy nilly. I'll be the first to admit I'm not the greatest with wiring/electronics.
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Oct 22, 2018 22:51
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builds character posted:meh, I am the PO in this thread now... I have tested stuff out for a LED rear brake light without any real documentation just by trying out all the various combinations of wires. Worst case you have to replace a fuse.  Success! I used my multi meter to determine the switch was indeed working. Next, I removed the wires from the tail/brake light from their plastic housing and tried rearranging them to get the running light/brake light operating. I only blew 2 fuses in the process but realized that I needed to keep the yellow (ground wire) in place and swap the red and black wires which control the tail/brake lights. At first it still wasn't working but then I noticed the light flickering which led me to believe there was a short or a bad connection somewhere. Two of the three wire connectors were in bad shape so I took that opportunity to shorten the 12-16" of excess wiring coming from the brake light to put the connectors on clean fresh wire. When I installed them back into the plastic housing, everything was bright and functional with no flicker and the battery area was much cleaner without an extra foot and a half of wiring. I haven't had a bunch of time to ride since I bought it as work has been crazy busy and my weekends full but I've been able to tidy up a few things that bugged me about the bike when I got it. I used a heat gun on the plastics and brought them back to life. Oiled the chain. Reinstalled the hot start lever that the PO removed. Installed the quick detach for the battery tender. Lubed/adjusted the clutch lever & cable which is really smooth now and doesn't have nearly as much play. Repositioned some of the controls for the enduro kit on the bars to accommodate the hot start lever. The PO also said the bike didn't like to sit and idle/would die so I decided to reset the air/fuel mixture to stock and readjust the idle. Now she starts up immediately, and will sit and purr without dying. I need to pick up oil/filter and an extra air filter or two and boots. I probably should buy some boots.
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Oct 25, 2018 21:34
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Went to a big empty parking lot and practiced road test stuff and general riding. Rode around for maybe an hour or two practicing all kinds of stuff. New issue though. I was getting ready to leave and came to a stop only to realize my rear brake stopped working. I get off and take a look. PO installed the rear brake switch when he converted it to Street legal. He reinstalled the rear brake line rubbing against the exhaust. After riding for an hour, the exhaust got hot enough to melt through the line. I'll be looking for a new rear line, likely braided steel and install it as to avoid rubbing against the exhaust.
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Oct 28, 2018 23:37
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I've been making a list of things to tackle and I feel like every time I go to address one by one, I hear the laughter of the previous owner like a ghost in the night.
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May 2, 2019 17:05
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Fixed my rear brake. I had accidentally pushed the piston too far into the caliper and bleeding wouldn't push it out. Used some air to pop it out. I took it completely apart, pulled the piston out, removed the O rings, cleaned the poo poo out of everything. It works great now. Also did a DIY vacuum bleeder using a rubber hose and a spray bottle sprayer. Replaced some exhaust flange nuts, tightened up the exhaust collar. I think I'm going to try and tackle a fork rebuild/fork seals sometime soon. They had minor leaks at the end of last year and now they're leaking pretty good. I've done the trick where you scrape the inside of the seals with a piece of plastic to remove debis but I think they just need to be replaced.
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May 6, 2019 22:27
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When I bought my bike last year, the PO got it street legal and had paperwork of being inspected with a passing grade. I got it titled and licensed without any additional inspection which I assumed would be necessary during the change of ownership. Good thing because it doesn't have a horn or mirrors and the brake switch wire broke off. But it cost me something like $270 for tax, title transfer, plates/registration, and orv stickers for an 07 wr250.
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May 12, 2019 22:10
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Didn't do much to my bike but I bought a bike stand which beats using a cinder block or bucket. Also removed a few small trees and cleared some brush in my urban Seattle double lot yard so that I have enough room to do laps. I mostly practice low speed stuff like balance, figure 8s, full lock turns, standing etc. To my surprise, my dog tears up the grass running laps more than I do. I'm sure my neighbors are super pumped.
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May 13, 2019 08:30
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Kerosene, goo gone, heat
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May 23, 2019 00:06
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My friend and I got out riding this weekend to one of the closer areas which we'd never been before. The best part was with the holiday weekend I thought it would be madness but it seemed the crowds all went elsewhere to ride so we basically had the place to ourselves. It rained on Saturday so I'm guessing that also kept people from riding. We were riding this particular trail which was fast and smooth through the forest. It was fun because you could ride it in 3rd and the bumps were enough you could get airborne if you wanted to. Eventually though it turned into rocks and then it started going up. The dirt was great since it had some moisture in it but the rocks were grapefruit to watermelon sized and wet. We made it up a few of the switchbacks after a few attempts and as I'm lining up to get up to the top of the trail my friend realized my rear tire was flat. I must have pinch flatted on the rocks somewhere going up. I made it up the last section and then limped it 3-4 miles out to the car without damaging the rim or tire. So I'm ordering tubes and tire spoons now. I can't tell you how many BMX/road/mtb tires I've changed in the past so in theory I know what I'm doing but holy poo poo the amount of force needed for a moto tire is a whole new world.
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May 28, 2019 17:36
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Elviscat posted:Use lots of lube! I live in Seattle and this was Reiter near Gold Bar/Index. I've never been and its the closest to the city so I wanted to check it out. It was pretty empty as everyone must have gone elsewhere for the holiday weekend. I usually do about the same (15/12) for air but I didn't remember to air up after my last ride which was sandy so I was probably running 10ish in the rear. Had a great time until I flatted. I run a Motoz Tractionator enduro 120/90 so its bigger than stock thanks to the previous owner. I think the beefiness of the tire actually might have helped protect the rim and the tire itself seems fine. The road out is smooth and well maintained so I kept it slow and tried to keep my weight over the front tire. I'll report back when my levers come in. I'm ordering extra tubes and some patches as well because this will likely happen again.
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May 28, 2019 19:59
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GriszledMelkaba posted:Have you been to Walker Valley? They did a bunch of trail maintenance within the last couple months and it is very nice. No, not yet. I just bought my bike (07 WR250F) in october and am fairly new to moto. I have a bmx/mtb/road background and I used to have a trail 70 as a kid and rode my friends/cousins ttr125 and cr80 etc so its not like I'm starting from scratch. I've been to Tahuya several times, Mattawa, Reiter. This is going to be my first summer with the bike so I anticipate I'll be riding more. I want to get up to Walker eventually. From the people I've talked to it sounds like its pretty easy to get in over your head there as some of the trails really get tough. I've got a riding partner who bought his bike around the same time I did so we're probably fairly equal skill-wise but he enjoys the faster open riding versus the tight technical single track. He really enjoyed mattawa. We'll probably head up to walker at some point this summer but it might be nice with someone who knows the area and doesn't mind showing us the easier trails at first. I met up with a few guys from Thumper Talk and rode Tahuya single track which was fun but super challenging at this stage in my riding. Full lock turns and root climbs were crazy. I wasn't shy and tried everything. I fell on a few things but succeeded more than I thought I would.
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May 28, 2019 22:06
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Still fairly new to moto but I flatted on my rear tire during my last trail ride so I went ahead and ordered a new tube, spoons and a curved lever. I have a background in cycling so the concept isn't new but holy poo poo are moto tires so much more work and less pliable. I watched a few youtube vids and then went at it. I used dish soap as lube and it helped a lot. My rim was pretty gross inside so while the tire was off I have it a good cleaning. I managed to get it back on and both rim locks set and managed not to pinch the tube. Huge success in my book but I also have a new respect for anyone who could repair a tube/tire on the trail. Slim Pickens posted:
Most bicycles have their weight balanced more over the rear wheel than the front. Seeing as the rear wheel bears most of the weight and provides the torque to move the bike, the frame around the rear wheel is more substantial than the front, the rear wheel usually has more spokes than the front tire to support that weight and torque, and the dropouts are usually thicker/more robust. The front tire probably bears 25-40% of the weight of the bike so the front fork, dropouts and front wheel are less robust. Now you're adding probably double the weight onto those dropouts, generating torque from that wheel and pulling the weight of you and the bike from those dropouts. They were never meant for those kinds of forces/loads. Clearly, you chose front wheel drive for a reason but I would say there are several reasons most e bikes and motorized 2 wheelers are rear wheel drive. If it was just for shits and giggles to see if it could be done, I get it. I would definitely look for a beefier fork with sturdier dropouts, maybe look into some mountain bike forks (actual mountain bikes, not cheap hybrids or walmart bikes) since they're meant for abuse. Verman fucked around with this message at 22:24 on Jun 5, 2019 |
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Jun 5, 2019 21:56
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builds character posted:It helps a lot to start out with a big tire iron IMO. https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/tusk-17%22-mega-tire-iron-p I have these, the big curved one is 15" and it worked perfectly. I like the half flat and half curved side which both are perfect for their uses. The spoons are really nice too and work well, you don't really have to worry about poking through a tube.  The only thing I might add is a bead buddy for putting the tire back on and not slipping off as you go around. The soap made the biggest difference to be honest. I can't imagine trying to change a tire without lube.
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Jun 5, 2019 22:37
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Elviscat posted:I pulled the rear tire on the Husky today, it looks like a pinch flat, but the inner rubber band was all loose and the spoke nuts had worn holes through it, isn't this supposed to be glued down? I'm replacing it, but how should it be affixed? I need an expert opinion here. Like BC said, just change out the rim strip. No need to fix it down. I'm surprised how thin dirtbike rim strips are given how large the backside of the nipples are. I've seen thicker rim strips on bicycles. Mine was the same way when I pulled it last week.
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Jun 11, 2019 17:05
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Changed my oil. That's it. Would rather be riding it.
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Jun 16, 2019 02:34
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Elviscat posted:That looks like a drat fine mode of transportation! secretary of state
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Jun 19, 2019 20:39
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That would be my guess. I always torque my nuts.
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Nov 15, 2019 03:17
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You need a paddle tire. Or a timber sled conversion.
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Dec 14, 2019 21:20
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Found an oil leak in my WR today after it's been sitting on a stand for a few months. The skid plate was trapping a bit and there was a small puddle on the stand. It's on the right side of the engine where my filter is. I cleaned the engine off really well in hopes of tracking it down. Parked it on cardboard. I'll probably run it for a bit tomorrow when I've got more time to see if I can figure it out. Realizing I need a power washer and or possibly an ultrasonic parts cleaner. A nice garage would help too. In cleaning the engine I removed the exhaust header pipe for more room and found the copper gasket/washer between the pipe and the engine has dissolved quite a bit.   I also tried to address my floppy kick starter with no avail. It's just too worn out and the only fix is a new one. Cherry on top is finding out one of my coworkers who knowingly came in sick with a fever two weeks ago has Corona virus. So that's a thing.
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Mar 9, 2020 09:39
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I was thinking the same thing.
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Mar 17, 2020 02:06
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Ordered a bunch of ticky tacky small parts for the WR today and finally fixed a problem I was having with my brake caliper. Previous owner removed these steel oval washers that attach to the inside of the rear arm. They were removed for whatever reason and it was causing my brake caliper to jiggle when my rear nut was fully torqued. After looking over a parts diagram much closer, I realized they were missing, ordered them up and voila ... Problem solved. Now I need to put on my new rear brake switch, and replace the exhaust manifold gasket. gently caress, also need to order new handguards since the poo poo ones the PO stripped out. I'll never buy a used dirt bike again unless it's just for parts or a project. The decisions people make to avoid spending $10 on parts is astounding. *Update* Renting a thread repair tool was the best idea. Those things work magic. I repaired a few issues across my bike and everything torqued down perfectly. Replaced all above issues. Bike is working and running well. Did 30 miles of trails in the Washingtons Olympic peninsula today. 60° and sunny. Couldn't ask for a better day. My forearms are gassed and my grip strength is not existent at the moment. Also have a nice case of money butt and the insides of my knees are sore from gripping the bike while standing. I needed that. Verman fucked around with this message at 07:57 on Mar 22, 2020 |
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Mar 18, 2020 04:23
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HA! My P/O did the same thing using two gaskets. The poo poo people decide to do. It's baffling.
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Mar 26, 2020 02:11
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Finally got my seat cover after a month of shopping. Thanks Jyna. I've never done a seat cover before but it seemed straight forward. It was pretty annoying but I got it done without wrinkles. I'm not sure if I'll like the gripper seat or not but we'll see. I can see the raised bumps causing issues.  
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Apr 22, 2020 20:34
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Let's be real, it's probably going to destroy my rear end. Luckily I don't sit while riding very often.
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Apr 22, 2020 21:46
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Got some parts in.  New handguards Oil filter and o rings Fork oil Fork seals, driver and bullet Fork air bleeders Front wheel tool Various little stuff that needed replacement
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May 2, 2020 00:02
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My biggest issue was whoever rebuilt my forks before I bought it reinstalled the bleeders directly under the bars making it a pain in the rear end to get to with a flat head. I have to rebuild my forks anyway so I'll just go ahead and spin those around so they're easier to get to and then install the quick bleeders. I asked my riding buddy when the last time he bled his shocks were and he looked confused. I did it for him and it sounded like trying to deflate an air mattress.
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May 2, 2020 01:44
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Put new handguards on my dirtbike. The full wraparounds feel so much more secure than the cheap stripped out ones that were on there earlier. Rebuilding the forks which have been leaking oil for a while. My buddies truck has an oil spot in the back from where my bike gets loaded.  I ordered everything I needed. Last night I took the forks off the bike. Cleaned up a few small scratches in the lower legs. I realized I forgot to pick up a 14mm hex socket so I went and got that today. I opened up my forks and poured out what looked like watery chocolate milk which isn't great. Once I got all that out, I went to remove the cartridge in the bottom but the damper rod just kept spinning.  As I looked into the fork and service manual, it was clear I need a specific Yamaha tool to hold it in place while I loosen the bottom nut. Awesome. A quick search showed that it was going to be at least $30 plus shipping and waiting for the cheapest option and much more for the actual tool from yamaha if you can even find it. Then I found a DIY option which I'll be making tomorrow. Its basically a long tube with 4 prongs at one end. It can be made out of a closet clothing rod found at home depot which fits perfectly. Oh, and I realized my rear suspension link bearings are shot. There's quite a bit of vertical play. The work never stops. I just want to feel ahead of maintenance for once but I think the more you know how to fix, the more you look for and the more you find.
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May 3, 2020 10:55
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Fork update. I was always nervous about suspension. It seemed like some sort of weird voodoo magic and super sensitive etc. Now that I've been into it I will have no problem doing it again. Went to Home Depot for the materials needed to build my fork tool. Also picked up some angled aluminum to make some softjaws for my vise.  Made a tracing of the Home Depot closet rod so I could divide into equal parts. Wrapped it in painters tape so I could grid it off since I don't have exact measurements of what its engaging.   Success, and it works! Now I can remove the bottom cartridge and damper rod.  Fork parts, most of them anyway  Finally got everything reassembled and filled with oil. Well, mostly. Everything I looked at said one bottle of oil would suffice but after filling the first fork to spec, I definitely need another bottle of unicorn piss. My local Yamaha dealerships are closed on Mondays so I'll wait until tomorrow or just go ahead and order some. Regardless, all I need to do is fill the other fork to spec level and put them back on the bike. Next time I'll probably just run Maxima, Belray, or Motul or some other alternative.  I seriously think I might have used 2 rolls of shop towel and an entire can of cleaner. This is an incredibly messy job.
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May 4, 2020 20:17
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After rebuilding my forks I went ahead and picked up some linkage bearings. Holy poo poo. I had no idea it would be this bad when I started. It's like misery porn. It's rusty from the outside so it's likely the inside is rusty too. Just getting the bushings out is tough.  Once the bushings were out I could see the needle bearings and to say they were in a rough shape is the understatement of the century. Several needles were fused together in chucks. This bearing wasn't even able to spin.  In the pivot, I tried pressing the bearings out with a vise and I was able to get one bearing halfway out before I destroyed the sidewall of the bearing. My last available option was to cut them apart very carefully. Not ideal but I was out of options. They rusted and that really jammed them in there making it impossible to push out.  Once they were out, I gently cleaned up the hole with a wire wheel. I was able to press the new bearings in and install everything back on the bike making it feel so good and smooth.  Today I went to a dealership to pick up a new lower shock bolt and nut that cross threaded. I also bought some rear wheel bearings and waterproof grease. Holy poo poo does everything feel smooth now. Can't wait to ride. But holy poo poo. Don't neglect bearings. Grease everything that moves. Do it often.
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May 9, 2020 09:46
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High Protein posted:What bike/miles? Forded rivers with it? 2007 WR 250f (dirt model). I bought it as my first dirt bike two years ago. I always wanted one as a kid and never got one, I realized I want getting younger so I started looking. I had a limited budget ($3k) and ride trails in Washington state so a WR was the bike to get. It's also plated for street so while I don't use it as a road bike, it's legal but it's mostly for Forest roads to connect trails. The guy I bought it from was a college kid who owned it for a year and needed cash. He said he probably put 50 hours on it and didn't have as much time to ride as he thought he would. Before him was the original owner, a guy who worked as a tech at the Yamaha dealership. I knew somewhat what to look for and with a tight budget I realized I wouldn't be getting a pristine machine but it was the cleanest and newest of 5 bikes I looked at. I also knew being my first bike, it's getting dropped, a lot. It's going to get crashed and beaten up. It's a dirt bike. WRs here in Washington hold their value really well and don't last long on Craigslist/marketplace, especially 250s. There were some little things obvious to me at the time which helped lower the price but others I couldn't see until I go to maintain it, like rusty linkage bearings. Being a dirt bike, it's likely been in sand, mud, clay, water etc. That stuff is obviously tough on parts but routine maintenance can deal with all of it, mainly just washing your bike after rides and greasing bearings seasonally. Unfortunately a lot of people see dirt bikes as big toys and they get neglected because people don't want to spend the money or time maintaining them. I have no idea on the miles or hours of the bike because the computer doesn't really track it like an odometer. The odometer in the computer can be reset for races so it's not accurate. I've tracked my rides and maintenance on a spreadsheet. I'll be adding another ride today actually.
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May 10, 2020 16:53
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The past time I went riding I stalled my bike and it was difficult to start. My e start stopped working so I had to kick. I felt like I lost compression as well which seemed weird. I checked my starter, solenoid, relay, and replaced the battery. I removed the spark plug and kicked it over a few times to clear anything in case it were flooded. I replaced the plug because it looked like this.  Also checked my valve clearances and realize I'll need to order shims and adjust. It was a long night and I got it started but didn't run it long due to the late time and noise etc.
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May 16, 2020 18:19
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Wow that looks really nice. Early 70s cb750s have been one of my favorite bikes for as long as I can remember. I'll own one some day. Not sure when but someday.
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May 27, 2020 01:51
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That's awesome. Congrats!
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May 30, 2020 07:30
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Put new tires on the WR. Front is a goldentyre 216, the rear is a tusk recon hybrid. Looking forward to seeing how they ride. I'll probably gain a lot of off-road traction and sacrifice my road handling a little which is fine considering I'm 95% dirt. The new tires went on much easier than the old stiff tires and I didn't even pop a tube this time. 
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Jun 14, 2020 02:32
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GriszledMelkaba posted:I think I've got a moto hauler set up I know that my 08 4runner is noticeably lighter and looser in the front end at highway speeds with my 300lb of dirt bike/hauler on the hitch due to how far past the rear axle it is. It's still safe and drivable but definitely a noticeable difference. I've got coil springs vs leafs, so people usually put airbags in there to help with the added weight. I wouldn't personally choose to install new springs to lift and firm up my daily ride for the few times I need to haul my bike. I also wouldn't change anything if you don't notice much of a difference in ride quality.
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Jun 25, 2020 06:41
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Just don't get your arm/wrist stuck between the bar and the guards unless you like the look of  The likelihood of that happening is way slimmer than all the protection they provide though. I love my full wrap handguards.
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Jul 7, 2020 20:45
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Same but in blue. I need to order valve shims now because they need adjusting ... 
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Jul 8, 2020 01:15
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My bike is on my tender whenever it's home. Dead battery isn't fun to figure out when I'm on a trail.
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Jul 17, 2020 06:58
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I did a valve shim adjustment yesterday on my WR. I had been putting it off because I didn't want to buy a shim kit for $80 so I bought individuals from a local shop. $36 for 6 and I probably should have just bought the kit. Regardless I did all my math and got an the valves back into spec. Not quite sure how they wound up where they were some looser than spec, one with no clearance, some tighter, but it's good now. Followed a video in YouTube from rocky mountain atv which was pretty clear. The shittiest part is the access it lack thereof to the engine head. The worst part was the video warns about dropping these valve cam alignment rings (half circle clip that aligns the cam to the head casing) down into the engine requiring splitting the cases to fish them out. No joke, first one pops out and all I hear is "cling, cling, cling". gently caress. It went down the timing chain void. Okay, I'll clog that hole with a rag to prevent the next one from falling in. "Clang cling cling". Mother fucker, how? The second fell into a small channel between the valves that I didn't take into account. I channeled all my years as a child playing the claw game and used a long skinny retracting magnet to fish them out. Luckily the one in the chain channel landed on a ledge halfway down and I got it out. The second one required several repositioning attempts before it came out. I was really dreading the possibility of ripping apart my engine. I plugged every possible void when installing the microscopic valve shims because there would be no way of finding those if they fell. I used a magnet to place them. Once I got everything put back together, I gave it one kick and it fired right up. Now I just need to address my bike running rich. I really don't want to get into my carb right now
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Jul 27, 2020 18:26
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