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NitroSpazzz posted:Well the previous owner of my DRZ wants to buy it back...I'm kind of tempted so I can buy something less practical. The Husky 610 or KTM 6** would be a good choice if you wanted a lower maintenance bike, but they weigh in at 310-330 lbs. But you don't need a bike that can take a lot of miles so don't get one. On the track, the KTM 690 handles like a Goldwing compared to my Husky SM450R. Choosing between a 450 and open class supermoto, you may as well go for an open class, you'll be able to use the extra ~10 Hp on the street. I think the Husky SM510R is the best pick. The Aprilia's reliability problems are solved (and the 4.5 was solid, the 5.5 had issues) however valve checks are very time consuming because they can't be done with the engine in the frame. Valve checks on a Husky can be done in 20 minutes. The KTMs are great too, but the 450 and 530SMR were never street legal, so you can only get a Supermoto converted EXC. These need three changes, wheels, front brake, and suspension, but the suspension is often left stock. If you see a good one go for it. The Husky has two short comings, no factory slipper clutch, and a stock 4.25in rear rim (it should be on a 5in wheel). Other brands... Husaberg, TM, Gas Gas all make good supermotos, you're just not likely to see one for sale. If you get any competition supermoto for street use, do consider getting an oil cooler and radiator fan. The oil cooler will double the oil capacity and allow longer times between changes. Zool fucked around with this message at 06:42 on May 29, 2010 |
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May 29, 2010 06:37
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Primo Itch posted:To be honest i never had real gung to clean up. At most month-old gung, because really, even a week without firing the engine will dirty-up your carb with our gas. Can you feel it happening, or is it just leaving a black mark on the silencer? A little tire muffler interaction is no big deal, it happens on most supermotos. If you can tell when the tire hits the muffler the standard fix is to space the muffler out from the subframe.
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Jun 9, 2010 17:42
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Z3n posted:If you never jumped it or rode it up stairs/curbs/gardens, it'd probably be the better street ride. I like having stupid amounts of suspension travel and the Duke is definitely a sumo inspired standard and not a supermoto. I wouldn't want to hop curbs/offroad and stuff on it, basically, and that's most of the fun I've had on a sumo. Not saying it's not capable, because it's probably better off than your typical sportbike, but it's definitely not designed for it. It's not a bike where you're going to crash it, laugh, pick it up, kick the dirt off, and keep riding it. Half the fun in sumos is that they are practically indestructable. I'm pretty sure a Duke with bar end and axle sliders is about as indestructible as an SM model. If your plan is to ride an awesome, flickable, light weight bike, with gobs of torque on a twisty asphault road you can't go wrong with a Duke II or 690 Duke. The Duke I is good too, but a bit ugly. Although on the upside the tach counts off in "Beats per Minute" instead of RPM. I would pick a bike with an LC4 over the DRZ every time.
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Jun 26, 2010 00:27
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ari.gato posted:Duke 2 and the Duke 690 looks bangin. Would both (either?) of them be able to make it to about 85mph? Checked CL in L.A. and there's one Duke 2 available. I checked KTM's site and I guess they're discontinued as well. Time to start the search. It'll do about 115. 85 will be comfortable*. Yeah, the Duke 690 replaced the Duke II. The 690 makes almost twice as much power as the DRZ, and the brakes are at least that much better. Engine vibration won't be too bad, wind blast on the other hand...
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Jun 26, 2010 01:17
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I went to watch  a Supermoto race this weekend.The fastest guy out there got pretty darn sideways. 
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Jun 29, 2010 06:27
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Get the stock exhaust along with it if he has it. My 690 SMC came with a Leo Vince exhaust, and a 'remapped' stock ecu. It was noticeably down on power until I put the stock exhaust on. Unless it has a power commander or tuneboy the Leo Vince exhaust will cost you power. Other than that, go for it. Actually gently caress that you should get one of these. http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/mcy/1814064945.html http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?t=91000
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Jul 2, 2010 06:25
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Z3n posted:I learned today that a slipper clutch is the poo poo for backing it in. And that a KTM 690 SMC really is a phenominal bike. Goddamn fast. It is so choice. If you have the means, I highly recommend picking one up.
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Jul 9, 2010 05:15
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Z3n posted:It's also the first bike I've ever ridden where I thought the factory gearing could need to be a little taller. First gear is hilariously useless. Z3n got on my 690 and immediately did an accidental wheelie, nearly going over backwards. Also the 690SM weighs about the same as a DRZ at 325ish, the 690 SMC weighs 20lbs less. A race 450 weighs in between 240 and 260 lbs. Cristoff, I haven't ridden the 690SM, but if it doesn't feel nimble you could try adjusting the suspension, or maybe even your riding style. Are you sitting mostly upright and leaning the bike beneath you in tight corners?
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Jul 18, 2010 19:26
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Spiffness posted:KTM 625 SMC
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Jul 18, 2010 19:28
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Christoff posted:How are they for just casual commuting? I won't be dragging my feet, track days, etc. I'll do the occasional canyon and maybe trail/gravel ride. I already have to make a bit of an effort to shift/brake. Especially braking. How is walking around in them? Are they just too much of a boot for the casual rider? Buying Tech 7's for commuting would be total overkill, and offroad boots are extremely awkward to walk in. Pop down to the store and try a pair on.
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Jul 20, 2010 06:36
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Do people on ride dirt bikes in your area? Offroad boots are much stiffer than on road boots, making shifting and rear braking harder. I've found alpine stars boots to be especially stiff, I tried on a broken-in pair of tech-8s and hated them. I prefer the less stiff, less expensive, and less protective, Fox Comp-5. For racing and track days, if I'm not jumping the bike I wear street boots.
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Jul 22, 2010 14:37
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needknees posted:Edit again: double gently caress you guys so is the CR250 Because you're also getting a 450exc?
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Aug 25, 2010 14:55
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needknees posted:A newer, slightly nicer CR250 but don't tell anyone I'm getting that instead of a trackbike What's a cr250 if not a trackbike?
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Aug 25, 2010 17:07
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Fofalooza posted:How well off would I be going with a sumo and aggressive dual sport tires for an extended and not very technical off road riding trip? What are the big differences between a supermoto and a dedicated dual sport, like a KLR? You guys seem to really know your poo poo so who better to ask You can ride off-road on any bike you want.  Will there be mud involved? You'll be fine on an SM with dual sport tires (distanzias give enough traction to wheelie on gravel road), until you get to mud. Then it gets hairy. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fir7Lt2lwow#t=5m40s More supermoto mud action! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9N7gkgOP0IQ Zool fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Aug 26, 2010 |
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Aug 26, 2010 03:54
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Zool posted:quote != Edit Hey look, someone racing a 690SMC http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pUPbSiUfS9k&feature=watch_response#t=0m36s
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Aug 26, 2010 04:00
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Contiforce SM, superb grip on the track, and they do well in the wet too. I just got a new set for my SMC
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Aug 26, 2010 19:30
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The 690SM is a few pounds heavier, has softer suspension, the swing arm is more difficult to clean, and the fuel fill is at the front.
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Aug 28, 2010 05:52
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Dubs posted:How in the hell have those sliders not rattled off yet? mine were gone in weeks. DRZ's had orange gear boxes?
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Aug 28, 2010 05:53
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needknees posted:Also, tire sizes. The OEM rear tire (which is still on the bike...) is currently a 160/60. It _barely_ clears the chain. Would it be better to stick with the 160 rear or drop down to a 150? By SM standards barely clears the chain is doing pretty darn well. A lot of bikes are in the "the chain will make it's own clearance" territory.
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Aug 29, 2010 18:21
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The only routine maintenance difference is the valve check interval. Expect to check the valves three times for every two on a DRZ. You can also expect adjusting the valves to be about half as difficult (cam shafts do not need to be removed).
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Aug 30, 2010 00:13
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The KTM SM crew is getting pretty big, that's like six now right? Needknees, maybe you should get a goldwing.
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Aug 31, 2010 06:56
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n8r posted:http://www.motostrano.com/sucokibabo.html I take it you want to be able to swap back to dirt wheels? Otherwise you can save a bit by lacing 17s onto your stock hubs. You can get by with a dirt front fork, but you will find it's limits and want something better set up for SM as you get faster. You should start with a proper brake system, using a 4-pot caliper. The stock dirt caliper, even with a 320mm relocation, just isn't up to the job. Brembo or Beringer are choice. The brake upgrade is expensive if you buy new parts, but if you look out for deals on used parts you can come out of it fairly cheap. Pro-tip the same caliper I have on my Husky was used on Ducati Monsters from like 1994 to 2002. If you haven't been cruising the SMJ classifieds, you should start. http://www.supermotojunkie.com/forumdisplay.php?73-Bike-Parts And while you're on SMJ, don't forget to stop by the Washington forum. Mention you're converting a YZ250 on there, I think someone might have some YZ 17"s for sale. http://www.supermotojunkie.com/forumdisplay.php?26-Washington-Supermoto-Forum There is now a track Yakima,I don't know how often it will be open for practice, but there were a few races there this year, as well as one in Ephrata. Zool fucked around with this message at 01:34 on Sep 1, 2010 |
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Aug 31, 2010 23:57
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NitroSpazzz posted:Engine work is cams, piston, shims, valves, flat sides, exhaust, crank. All the good bolt on's but no big bore or anything like that. I assume that's a high lift cam, what about the rest of the parts? What does piston, valves, and crank mean? Did you just swap in a few new stock parts? Oversize valves? Pink piston? Cantankerous crank? Sounds like you blew up the engine and rebuilt it, not exactly a selling point.
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Sep 5, 2010 21:46
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needknees posted:After taking a spin on the CBR last night the difference in braking between the it and the KTM is astounding. I've always been happy with EBC pads, I think they're the OEM ones. They are probably just glazed over. Be sure to pull off the rotor and clean it, then break in the pads properly. The KTM will have a lot of brake dive compared to the CBR, but I assume you mean it actually isn't stopping as quickly. Does the 625 have braided brake lines?
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Sep 5, 2010 21:53
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Jazzzzz posted:690 SMC was delivered yesterday. I haven't even been able to even ride it around the block because the bike got here before the title, etc. (had the bike shipped). You just have to give it some time to break in. Not the seat, your rear end.
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Sep 7, 2010 01:53
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henne posted:On a saner note, this is on craigslist right now. I know info is short in the ad but does it look like a decent bike at a decent price? That's a girl bike.
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Sep 30, 2010 15:31
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You can put an aftermarket pipe on for a loss of all midrange power. It's a trade-off, lose power, gain noise.
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Oct 14, 2010 04:30
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Christoff posted:I'm lost. In 07 The 690 was introduced with the new motor and all. So in 07 there was the beaker 690 SM and some beaker SMC-R or SMC something? I remember seeing one on craigslist. Then in 08 there was the SMC with the completely different body style....and a regular SM? Then in 09 there's the enduro/SM? Same thing? AND SMC? I'm confused. http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?92269-History-of-the-KTM-SMC-amp-Duke
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Oct 14, 2010 13:42
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If anyone's looking to spend 10 grand on a Supermoto, the FS570 has made it state side. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FLNk6C-NI4k#t=6m14s
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Oct 18, 2010 22:32
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Christoff posted:I find my 690 sm to be not very wheelie happy.  Here's what I know from SMC ownership, it probably still applies. Put on stock exhaust, make sure engine mapping is not on poor fuel mode, wire mod. Turn throttle all the way. Zool fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Oct 20, 2010 |
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Oct 20, 2010 16:18
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Z3n posted:They are wheelie monsters, but every aftermarket exhaust punches a massive hole in the midrange. Backpressure is good if you want midrange, and midrange is good if you want wheelies. The akra map may give you a few more peak HP, but peak HP doesn't mean poo poo for the vast majority of your street riding.  Ever wonder why race bikes/cars have exhaust pipes at all? Back-pressure would be really low if you just unbolted the headers. The exhaust pulse flowing down the pipe leaves a low pressure area in it's wake, this low pressure area reduces the amount of energy sapped from the crankshaft during the exhaust stroke by helping to "suck" the next exhaust pulse out of the cylinder. The rpms where the low pressure wave will meet the exhaust valve right as it opens (and get the most benefit from this effect) depend on the exhaust gas velocity. Putting on an open exhaust will lower the exhaust gas velocity, and move this effect higher in the rev range. That could be good, or bad, depending on the bike. You certainly don't want it to occur at 10000rpm on a bike that redlines at 8500rpm. My 690SMC came with a Leo Vince, and akramap installed, it was much much louder, and much much slower, than my roommates bone stock 690SMC. I doubt a tuneboy and dyno tune will be able to get you to the same torque output at 5000rpm (aka wheelie speed) as the stock bike. If your SMC can't do this, http://www.youtube.com/user/Spiffness1#p/u/10/GrXgRtw_jR0 it's not right.
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Oct 22, 2010 03:16
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Everyone that doesn't own an SMC that doesn't buy that is stupid. 
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Oct 25, 2010 17:20
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Christoff posted:Yeah, in my opinion it boils down to a couple things. If you want a proper super light sumo that is nimble and easy to toss around get a drz. If you want a decent amount of power and torque with a little extra weight get a KTM. My 07 690 is pretty drat heavy and is hardly a sumo but I still love the poo poo out of it. The DRZ is not a "proper super light sumo" A 450 supermoto weighs in around 250lbs, the SXV is considered a (very powerful) porker at 280. Any supermoto weighing over 300lbs is not light. Not to say that's such a bad thing in a street bike. I love my 690SMC, but at 308lbs (according to KTM), its a street bike, not a real supermoto.
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Nov 10, 2010 05:34
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Pinny posted:We all know CA's thoughts on the DRZ but what does everyone think of the Husky 610's and the new 630's? They look to be a nice compromise between performance/maintenance, compared to something like the 450/510's that seem to drink oil. The Husky 610 and 630 are much like the KTM 690, only not as good, but also a bit cheaper. I completely agree that they're the right compromise between maintenance and performance. I've ridden the 610 briefly, I thought it would make a great street supermoto, the suspension was a little soft but still better than the DRZ's. It's a bit down on power from the 690, which you'd expect given that it's also down on displacement. The throttle response was smooth, much better than the KTM in that area. Brakes are quality 4 piston Brembos, worlds apart from the DRZ. Six gears, another big advantage over the DRZ. I've done a valve check on both a DRZ, and a Husky 450 which shares the cylinder head design with the 630. The DRZ is cam-on-bucket, meaning the camshafts must be removed to change the shims. The 630 uses rockers that can be moved out of position, allowing the shims to be changed without messing with the cam shafts. This saves a lot of grief and makes it a much quicker job. The 630 gained about 20 lbs over the 610, but I expect that to be mostly in the exhaust. (Don't ride the SM510, if you do you'll end up buying that instead)
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Nov 10, 2010 15:47
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2ndclasscitizen posted:There's a pair of new "Husky" SMs out next year: It's the G450X engine, the chassis was designed by Husqvarna though. I've noticed the crank horsepower is listed as 40, I'm certain thats a lie, my 450 dyno'ed 41 at the wheel. It has a coolant bottle, my '04 just starts puking coolant onto the ground if it overheats, so you can't really complain about the placement. FYI Adapting the BMW engine to the Husqvarna designs required an entirely new type of transmission. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLDgQg6bq7o&feature=youtube_gdata
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Nov 11, 2010 00:45
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Slim Pickens posted:Well then may i suggest
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Nov 28, 2010 23:22
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TheDon01 posted:As long as you maintain front wheel traction and stay on the gas you should be fine sliding around like that. Backing it in is accomplished under braking with the throttle closed. If we're talking about sliding on corner exit, then what TheDon01 said is correct. I would hate to see the crash when someone tries to back it in thinking the method is lock up the rear brake, then gas the poo poo out of it.
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Dec 8, 2010 16:46
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:So how do you pronounce Husqvarna anyways? I was watching a German video and they clearly said "husk-var-nuh" even though I figured they would be saying the V like a W. If I'm not pronouncing it right how will I get any sumo street cred? hoos-kvarna
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Dec 19, 2010 05:53
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Spiffness posted:Z3n gets on 690. Starts it. Flips down visor. Clicks it into 1st gear. Immediately 12 o'clocks it. Total distance traveled: 20 inches. Zool gets on DRZ. Starts it. Clicks it into 1st gear. Stalls it. Starts it. Stalls it. Starts it. Rides... wants 690 back. Total distance traveled 20 feet.
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Jan 28, 2011 02:09
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Z3n posted:I buy my bikes so that I can ride them though, not wrench on them. ZX9R
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Jan 29, 2011 23:01
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