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T1g4h posted:Hey I got good news Hell yeah this is exactly what i was looking for thank you so much!! NitroSpazzz posted:Rock crawling? Easy enough to gather some rocks and obstacles then re-stack them once you've mastered it. thats also a great idea i dont have a lot of experience with crawling. Gonna go with the nitro for now but crawling looks like my 4yo nephew would love it so ima look into that too. thank you!
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Feb 8, 2024 23:31
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I posted here a few years ago about a 3d printed Jeep Wrangler I did and I just finished another fully 3d printed r/c car this time an amazing 240z model. https://imgur.com/gallery/olSRDOQ
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Feb 12, 2024 22:15
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mattfl posted:I posted here a few years ago about a 3d printed Jeep Wrangler I did and I just finished another fully 3d printed r/c car this time an amazing 240z model. that is absolutely insane, stunning work! Do you have another car youre doing after one? id love to see the wrangler too if you got a link
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Feb 12, 2024 22:41
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Kvlt! posted:that is absolutely insane, stunning work! Do you have another car youre doing after one? id love to see the wrangler too if you got a link Here’s the wrangler - https://imgur.com/gallery/GUC59v8 And another model he’s designed a buggy - https://imgur.com/gallery/UTeP2k7 Nothing planned for next yet.
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Feb 12, 2024 22:49
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Kvlt! posted:do yall have any recs for "solo challenges"?
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Feb 13, 2024 16:12
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DP7kkUhE9aw The creator of Kerbal Space Program is working on a new game that can best be described as "KSP but with RC models" and I feel like a ton of you might be interested in this.
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Feb 14, 2024 01:38
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Do I need anything else to install this on my stock SCX24 (besides tools which I have)? https://www.amainhobbies.com/furite...2306%2fp1505128 Do I need to upgrade my battery?
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Feb 14, 2024 02:09
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Your going to need a new esc and a receiver because your all in one esc/receiver that comes stock with your truck is brushed only. ESCs https://www.amainhobbies.com/furitek-python-pro-40a-brushless-brushed-micro-waterproof-esc-ftk-fur-2301/p1491535, https://www.amainhobbies.com/furitek-python-40a-brushless-brushed-micro-waterproof-esc-ftk-fur-2300/p1491536, https://www.amainhobbies.com/furitek-lizard-pro-40a-brushed-brushless-esc-utb18-ftk-fur-2266/p1477304 Receiver any Spektrum RC receiver. Combo motor, esc, motor mount. https://www.amainhobbies.com/furitek-torpedo-brushless-esc-motor-combo-scx24-ftk-fur-2341/p1505209
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Feb 14, 2024 09:20
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thank you!!
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Feb 14, 2024 12:31
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Hello RC friends, The hobby is quickly consuming me. I have a few questions, this thread has been very helpful in the past as always it is greatly appreciated! First up I have this 1RC Eastern Dirt Mod Car  The battery (230mAh, 6 volt, 5 cell, NiMH), comes with a charger but says "charge it for X minutes and if it starts getting hot or smoky that's bad". Does anyone know if there is a charger for this battery (or an alternative battery that also works), that comes with something like your more typical "the charger will let you know if it's charging/when it's charged?" charger? My 2nd question relates to my SXC24 I am building:  I'm building a "puller:" SXC24, except it's more of a way for me to learn about the platform by doing fun stuff to it and seeing how it effects the pulling. I'm not competing or anything. I have these new shocks and wheels as you can see, got my shock fluid all ready too, all seemed good for a shock/wheel/tire replacement, but I can't figure out what that thing is below the shocks in the picture? It came with all the other parts, I didn't order it and I'm not sure what to do with it or if it's needed. Also, am I missing any components for a wheel swap? Kvlt! fucked around with this message at 01:35 on Feb 23, 2024 |
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Feb 23, 2024 01:32
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I can answer your battery question, but not the other. NiMH is a pretty stable chemistry, so your super-simple charger will work fine as long as it doesn't overcharge. If you want something better, I recommend a balance charger so you can charge lithium batteries later. I got a Tenergy one from amazon for around $40 and it will charge almost any kind of hobby battery. It also has a voltage sensor, so it will cut power when a NiMH battery is fully charged. You can almost certainly find a lithium replacement battery for your car, but you will need said balance charger, and a charging bag/box.
GOD IS BED fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Feb 23, 2024 |
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Feb 23, 2024 03:21
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GOD IS BED posted:I can answer your battery question, but not the other. NiMH is a pretty stable chemistry, so your super-simple charger will work fine as long as it doesn't overcharge. If you want something better, I recommend a balance charger so you can charge lithium batteries later. I got a Tenergy one from amazon for around $40 and it will charge almost any kind of hobby battery. It also has a voltage sensor, so it will cut power when a NiMH battery is fully charged. You can almost certainly find a lithium replacement battery for your car, but you will need said balance charger, and a charging bag/box. If I am understanding correctly a balance charger can charge both lithium and nimh? Do you have a link to the one you got? thank you for your help!!
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Feb 23, 2024 05:13
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I’m phone posting but forgive me. You want to look for a peak detection charger. Multi chemistry chargers are the norm (can charge lithium and nickel batteries). You’re going to need a JST charge lead. I wouldn’t charge at higher than 0.5 Amps. Nickel batteries do not require balance charging. I’ve got a video I made for work on how most 4 button style chargers work. Super easy. https://youtu.be/T7s4wAnZiP8?si=qtKvB-C-6qXeK3ne
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Feb 23, 2024 05:24
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https://a.co/d/73ofv4P This is the one I have. It comes with a charging bag and a squid of connectors. It doesn't have all connections, but you can usually buy whatever connector you need. Your battery has a JST connector and that would be included in the squid. I'd highly recommend reading this site for more details on charging and using RC batteries: https://www.rccaraction.com/everything-need-know-rc-batteries/ e: or just watch that ^^^^ (peak detection charger, that's the term I meant, thank you) GOD IS BED fucked around with this message at 05:27 on Feb 23, 2024 |
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Feb 23, 2024 05:25
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Kvlt! posted:The battery (230mAh, 6 volt, 5 cell, NiMH), comes with a charger but says "charge it for X minutes and if it starts getting hot or smoky that's bad". Does anyone know if there is a charger for this battery (or an alternative battery that also works), that comes with something like your more typical "the charger will let you know if it's charging/when it's charged?" charger? "The battery is getting warm" is a valid charging method for Nicad and NiMh cells. So long as you can still touch it, you're still ok. Peak detection chargers would frequently false peak for me. So I more commonly used the "is it warm" method. THAT SAID, good chargers are good. Go spend $40-60 on one of the B6 clone chargers and you're gonna be real happy for a very long time with your choice. They work for everything from real car batteries, to quads, to little tiny 1s airplanes.
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Feb 23, 2024 21:44
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You know you're old when "peak detection charger" makes you think of this:
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Feb 23, 2024 22:19
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This was my first charger You fancy kids and their menus
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Mar 2, 2024 19:23
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Who needs LEDs! I could use a little help... I got this from a buddy at work...  What I know is that it's an OFNA Hyper... Something? I cant quite pinpoint what exactly it is with all the aftermarket stuff. Hopefully someone can tell from these pics...   Definitely not the stock engine...   It has a pipe too...  This is the transmitter it came with...  The only thing I've done to it is replace that ancient radio with a Flysky receiver I had and confirmed that the servos work properly. It all feels very solid and appears to be lightly used. My trouble is that I have next to no knowledge about Nitro stuff. I know the fundamentals but as far as this project goes I don't even know where to start. Especially considering that I don't even know exactly what I have to start. The obvious things are the tires, a clutch, air filter and the hardware for the brake and throttle. If someone can tell me where to get things I need to get this old boy driving again, or if its even worth the time, I'd appreciate it!
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Mar 8, 2024 08:59
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I know nitro is loud, it’s messy, the engines are picky and can be short lived, they’re a pain in the rear end to start and break in and adjust and tune. But god dammit if they don’t look cool as hell. My inner child who grew up when battery cars were a complete joke is still deeply impressed by nitro cars.
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Mar 8, 2024 14:18
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Beve Stuscemi posted:I know nitro is loud, it’s messy, Nitro engines, even 10 years ago when I was messing with them are pretty simple and I've never had one die in normal use. Find the right nitro percentage mix and run it. They're pretty easy to tune "good enough" for bashing around. Those little buggies are fast and great fun. You'll need a glow plug warmer for starting and should probably get a few spare glow plugs as they do die eventually and are one of the first steps of troubleshooting.
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Mar 8, 2024 14:28
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My experience is from childhood in the 90s, but what I remember is that the break-in makes all the difference. Bad break-in = engine that never "clears up" properly when running.
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Mar 8, 2024 20:11
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Grumbletron 4000 posted:Who needs LEDs! I don't know what model OFNA this is, but it is a snapshot of my time working at a hobby store in 2005/6...if that helps?
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Mar 8, 2024 20:31
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Beve Stuscemi posted:I know nitro is loud, it’s messy, the engines are picky and can be short lived, they’re a pain in the rear end to start and break in and adjust and tune. It's funny everything you hate about nitros is everything I love about em, but im def a person who likes working on their rc cars more than driving them too
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Mar 8, 2024 21:04
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I actually find myself missing having a nitro/gas rig. And yeah, back in the day break in was really everything. I was always VERY careful to break my engines in correctly and due to that, rarely had any major issues.
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Mar 8, 2024 22:10
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Grumbletron 4000 posted:Who needs LEDs! You have unlocked so many closed portions of my brain just now. That looks to be an OFNA Ultra LX Comp based on the front upper chassis brace and radiotray layout. The engine is an OFNA Force engine - the Force 26. The engines were fairly reliable and generally pretty user friendly. Nitro engines are fickle beasts though. When broken in wrong they will never run right. Run them too lean? Toast. That would run great on some 25 or 30% nitro fuel. Use a McCoy MC-9 glow plug. Generally speaking larger 1/8 engines ran better on 30% and using a colder temp plug. Smaller displacement (1/10) want a hot plug (MC-59). Your carb is on backwards. It needs to be rotated 180 degrees. It should have a small locknut that you can loosen to remove the carb. You will probably want to use some permatex ultra blue or ultra copper to seal the base of the carb (after cleaning) as that is a common place to leak air.
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Mar 8, 2024 22:12
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as a big drag racing fan its p much essential to have nitro and gas for rc drag racing. You can do it with electric of course but it just sucks the magic and fun out of it completely.
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Mar 8, 2024 22:57
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Kvlt! posted:as a big drag racing fan its p much essential to have nitro and gas for rc drag racing. You can do it with electric of course but it just sucks the magic and fun out of it completely. Yeah, I've dabbled with r/c drag racing several times and while it was fun, being that the cars were electric it REALLY seemed to take away from the fun of it.
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Mar 8, 2024 23:23
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Beve Stuscemi posted:I know nitro is loud, it’s messy, the engines are picky and can be short lived, they’re a pain in the rear end to start and break in and adjust and tune. As a child nitro stuff was a mystical wonder observed from afar to be enjoyed by adults only. By the time I could afford such things electric had gotten so good nitro just didn't make sense. I'm glad I came across this thing so I can finally experience what I was missing out on. It'll be a lot of fun to experience the noise, smell and to finally learn more about these crazy things. Somewhat Heroic posted:You have unlocked so many closed portions of my brain just now. Yes! That's exactly what I needed to know. Thank you so much! It took me WAY longer than I'd like to admit before I realized the carb was flipped. I was staring at the drat thing imagining some kind of hosed up windows pipe screensaver linkage between the carb and servo. I plan on hitting the hobby shop in the morning. Hopefully they have what I'll need to get it running. I'm pretty excited to get out there and beat on this thing!
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Mar 9, 2024 10:39
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For an air filter, pretty much anything that scale should fit. Just find something off the shelf at your LHS if possible. It needs to have pre-filter oil on it. I recommend just buying pre-lubed filters.
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Mar 10, 2024 00:30
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Build my first real RC car: Its built on a Tamiya M-05Ra Chassis. I hosed up some of the paint and some of the stickers but i still love my little Rally 2CV. Its a bit to realistic in that its FWD with an open Differential though so it hits its limits pretty quickly once you leave the gravel paths. Are there any decent 4WD, and maybe locked Diff, cars in the 100-200$ range? (excluding the usual servo, receiver etc stuff) I like realistic looking ones and im not a fan of buggies. I guess i could just buy a 4WD chassis and a body i like but i dont have enough experience to know what fits well together.
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Mar 13, 2024 14:59
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The TT02 is kind of the way to go for cheap but still fun AWD car that can be built to slam around in the dirt while also being cheap to fix. Or, you could tweak the diff in your 2CV as a first step. I've built my diffs with red wheel bearing grease and if you pack the crap out of the diff case with it, that will kind of act like an LSD since the grease is pretty thick. Or if you want to go full ham on it, you can take another one of the spider gears and jam it between two of the other ones and that will lock the whole thing up. If you don't have a spare gear (not sure if the kit came with an extra), you can move one of the three in the diff like so:  Tamiya also has an AWD M-chassis car (MF-01X) that shares wheelbases so you can keep the 2CV body as well.
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Mar 13, 2024 15:39
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There is a good chance there are aftermarket oil filled diffs for that chassis. Yeah Racing does cheap upgrades for most Tamiya chassis. You can put heavier oil into oil diffs, allowing you to balance how much slip you want.
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Mar 15, 2024 09:52
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Watch the heat with heavier oil though. When I raced regularly, I used to run heavy oil in my Slash to try to combat wheel spin in the corners and the diffs would get HOT
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Mar 15, 2024 13:12
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Last fall I bought a battle-scarred and worn but upgraded WLToys 144001. I've been having fun with it since then, but been limited by the winter conditions, and something has broken on it pretty much every time I've taken it out for a spin. As I got tired of stuff breaking, fixing the POs mods, and the whole thing getting more and more worn and rickety, I figured I would buy a brand new 144001 since they are dirt cheap and just move the upgraded motor over. Doing so, I quickly found that stuff on the brand new car broke even more, as the stock parts just couldn't take the torque from the little 2845 4400KV motor and a 3S 30C battery. Any single full throttle pull where the tires got bite would bend the driveshafts or even break the wheel uprights! I went on AliExpress and bought all the metal upgrades I could find for a reasonable cost, and have spent the last three days wrenching on this thing. As it's all made of the finest aliexpressium, I'm pretty sure I have stripped and bent every screw and thread at least twice, breathed in all the lead paint in the world and loctited everything to hell and back (not smart) Here it is after three days and most of my patience gone:  Some lessons learned if you want to do the same: -DON'T replace the differential casings with metal ones like I did. 90% of the bullshit I had to deal with was because of them. The new ones fit badly, and they don't even have the screw holes for swaybars or bumper upgrades. They will be gone on my next iteration of this car. -Grease your diffs! -Take whatever time and do whatever is necessary to make sure that your spur gear and motor lash is good! I had it too tight, and burned away half of my crown gear trying to make it work. My home office is covered in metal shavings now -Do not loctite until you are certain you won't be going back! -I kept the suspension stock so that it would break in case of accidents Everything hurts and I still have to do some alignment and I know I eventually have to replace the spur gear, but for now it rolls under its own power and I just had to button it up to see how it would look. 
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Mar 22, 2024 22:28
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Shai-Hulud posted:Build my first real RC car: There are several "mini" size chassis that are 4wd. The MF01x is Tamiya's option. They're going to be hard to find parts for, in general. Now, since you have a M05, there are two things to do. Get a heavy duty servo saver (they're $7 or $8.) and a set of 3racing or YeahRacing shocks (figure $20.) and you'll have a car you can reliably drive exactly where you want it. And the diff matters a lot less. While you're at it, $15 on a set of bearings is good too. I spent a lot of time trying to make my M05 "great". I have a fully decorated M05 here somewhere, and accessing the diff is tricky. It's ten screws if I recall correctly. It's best to just leave that diff open. If you want to have a car to go with your M05, that's 4wd, and we're talking driveway bashing. Find one of the TT02 variants with a nice rally car body, and enjoy. My recommendations for parts to buy at the same time are the same.. The M series, and TT series are "just one step up" from toy grade, so don't throw a bunch of money in upgrade parts at them, it's a waste. When I buy a TT or M series car for bashing around, I buy a heavy duty servo saver, bearings, shocks, and make sure it's got a fast steering servo. Anything else should be pocketed for stuff that will work for every car, or buying your next car. As someone who's got the race grade stuff (Xray, Losi, Team Associated, 3Racing, CRC, and a couple years of racing..) you're not gonna make a big improvement for less than the cost of the entire ~better~ chassis from someone else, so don't do it. :-) And... welcome to the fold.
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Mar 23, 2024 00:50
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I have some old Associated RC10T/RC10T2 trucks/baja beetles (Dahm's Buggsy if anyone remembers that one) that I'd like to maybe get running again someday. They've got electrics from around uh 1994/1995; old AM Airtronics transmitters, Novak Hammer Pro/Racer ESCs (I think I have a Rooster also in my posession somewhere)/14T brushed hand-wounds. The tires are completely trashed after so long, the old shocks are shot, rusty turnbuckles... Is it even worth bothering with such old chassis considering I'm probably going to have to replace the good lot of the components? I see people trying to sell these cars on eBay for ridiculous prices (450 dollars) because 90s retro, but like, the old stealth transmissions can't handle modern brushless stuff, getting parts for them seems like an ordeal, and does anyone actually race such an old platform anymore? Modern off-road RC racing these days from the youtube videos I've seen is so repulsive to me at this point on an aesthetic (those bodies are hideous) and kind of a spiritual level with how fast the cars are now.
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Mar 23, 2024 01:27
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It's not worth trying to get the AM or FM radio stuff to work again. The ESCs are fine. Motors are too. You'll need new batteries. You're best off selling the chassis, because if you break something that's the end. There are some traditional buggies and stadium trucks on the market now. And they're not all that expensive. While we're at it, I am very unhappy with the current state of offroad. The "standard" is carpet, or clay so dense it gets a blue groove. Traction rolling is a problem. Wheelies are a problem. The cars have gotten longer, motors have moved midship, and now nearly to the middle of the chassis. Batteries are getting smaller because there's just so much power available. I have a DT02, a TT02b, for my off road jollies. The DT02 really does it for me. Rear motor means it is happy on really slippery stuff. There are some other rear motor chassis on the market, but the names aren't coming ot mind right now.
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Mar 23, 2024 03:53
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I look at stuff like the Yokomo Super Dog Fighter, Kyosho/Tamiya retro/semi retro buggies like the Egress, the Avante or Turbo Dragon (or the on-road TT chassis stuff which I more or less missed out on as a youth) and they look so much more appealing to me to build than a brushless motor monster. Some of them are kinda silly looking but at least they look like cars. I've read up on how tracks are just carpet or hard-pack clay and it just looks like sure it might be fun, but soulless. Like how I feel about people who race RC drones or something.
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Mar 23, 2024 04:46
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im a crawling dude so all the racing ive seen is carpet/clay. What's the alternative? Just bc ive only ever seen those 2 is there like a diff type of dirt racing thats more like irl dirt? bc that would be awesome
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Mar 23, 2024 18:25
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The tracks I used to race on outside of a carpet oval were real backyard specials. Think like BMX track looseness, or there's something like this I found which looks fun. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OskaaUJTGs Look at how they're really grooving up the tracks with even old Tamiya stuff. Much more bumpy. As goofy and slow as these cars are, it looks a lot more welcoming to people than some clay track where the electric cars are clearing triple jumps with ease at national events. IDK Maybe I'm being too "old man yelling at cloud" but like there have been multiple articles of people saying that Off Road is dying because of how fast the cars are/how ugly the cars are/how clique-y it is now.
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Mar 23, 2024 18:49
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