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Tires and setup will matter more than the esc. Batteries probably after that.
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Mar 5, 2021 21:10
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I do rock bouncer racing. They're built to sprint up hills and don't handle especially well on flat ground. I imagine an RTR rock bouncer is probably gonna shoot more towards accessibility and be a little easier. But you probably want the RR10 if you wanna go tear around a dirt lot + some rough hills.
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Mar 8, 2021 23:31
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You probably don't need a metal case for the transmission. Just adjust the slipper appropriately? Probably want to avoid a servo-saver delete. Any modern interpretation of the RC10's dual bellcrank steering is likely to have a sprung cam servo saver.
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Mar 15, 2021 04:25
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Oh yeah, that's an OG RC10 servo saver. I'm sure it's awful. It looks like there were several iterations along the way that I was unaware of. I thought that most of them had arrived at this style though https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-associated-servo-saver-plastic-part-set-rc10b2-3t3-asc9155/p43813. JConcepts has a retro upgrade kit but it doesn't include a servo saver. https://www.jconcepts.net/shop/rc10-aluminum-steering-bellcrank-set It looks nice, but I'd probably avoid it unless I was sure I could avoid the walls. Or if I ran a Kimbrough-style servo saver with it. Your death wobble could be a few things too. If the shocks don't have any oil in them they will bounce without any damping, which can cause a harmonic response. Check for things like loose hinge pins as well. Make sure the bearings in the wheels are good. Make sure the tires are still glued up nicely. If your transmitter has dual rate steering, you might consider turning it down a bit. A fast buggy with a relatively responsive front end probably doesn't need a lot of steering throw.
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Mar 15, 2021 20:58
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I don't think the wobble is really coming from your linkage. Momentum is gonna keep the car and the wheels going forward through any slop in your steering linkage. I just checked both of my race buggies and they have a few degrees of play in them. You can try things like giving the front a little bit of toe out to help keep it stable. You could lower the rear ride height to tone down the efficacy of the steering. I'd make sure the links are the same length on the left and right.
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Mar 16, 2021 23:33
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I store batteries inside. I think the storage voltage stuff is bogus or perhaps a relic of past chemistry issues. I have never used a lipo bag. But I usually don't charge over 1C, and I recycle batteries that start to get puffy. If I were worried enough about a battery to put a bag around it to charge, I would just get rid of it.
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Apr 19, 2021 20:19
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I have an XV-01 and it performs well. I did a pseudo long damper conversion but it might not be necessary depending. I think the chassis layout is frustrating. It was a pain mounting electronics and routing wires. The battery tray requires extra concern depending on what you're putting in there. But it has been very reliable in the dirt. So all that dust protection must be worth something. Also, the body looks incredible. 
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Apr 29, 2021 22:51
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I think my brother will be thrilled to hear that review of his photography. Are they out of stock or something? I didn't know there was a shortage.
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May 13, 2021 18:01
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Looks like some shops have the subaru in stock still https://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-1-10-xv01-subaru-impreza-wrx-sti-ep-58528-00035267 https://www.asiatees.com/display?Tamiya-XV-01-Parts-Hop-Ups-Upgrades&brand=Tamiya&model=XV-01&id=87042&pid=1 Apparently Tamiya released an XV-01T? https://www.asiatees.com/display?Tamiya-XV-01-Parts-Hop-Ups-Upgrades&brand=Tamiya&model=XV-01&id=87037&pid=1 Which might technically be a Long Damper version underneath? But with different tires, wheels, and bumper. I'm pretty sure I've bought from both of these retailers before. They tend to be better about stocking Tamiya stuff.
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May 14, 2021 04:09
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This is a really fun mod. Good work!
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Jul 18, 2021 00:31
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Ball diffs are much lighter and don’t require swapping oil/grease to tune
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Dec 29, 2022 23:08
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I have one. It’s mid-build since I decided to do a lot of customization on it. https://imgur.com/a/ibuA2Yc I personally think the aluminum parts detract from it. The red transmission housings don’t look very realistic. The plastic components are included in the kit as well, and they’re more detailed. But I don’t think Cross RC actually makes any ‘standard’ kits. I think the kit is actually pretty nice. Cross RC seems to have a pretty good injection mold designer. There are some big parts that came out pretty clean and detailed. It comes with a lot of accessories like all the lighting and a sound module. I think my only real complaint is that the suspension has a lot of slop. I just bought a small pile of shims and I’m cleaning it up that way.
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Jan 12, 2023 17:12
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GOD IS BED posted:Wow, that looks amazing! Love the custom speedometer and rims. It’s gonna be more than a speedo when I’m all done https://i.imgur.com/9UnzBnL.mp4
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Jan 12, 2023 22:28
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Yeah, the pane to the right is going to be the navigation unit. I’ve got the servo signals plumbed into the microcontroller so it can read ‘speed’. I’ve got a tiny magnetometer in there so I know heading. And with those two I can make the terrain map move around in a realistic manner. Here’s a bad video from when I was debugging it. https://i.imgur.com/Q3eNlKz.mp4
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Jan 13, 2023 07:15
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Thanks everyone  I’m using a Teensy 4.0. It’s blisteringly fast at 600mhz, has a good amount of flash and sram on it, and it has some graphics functions that I have yet to take advantage of. Esp32 stuff always seems closely coupled with a wifi module and I don’t need wifi. The project has been paused for a while because I have the ADD and something else new and shiny caught my eye. The excitement here has reminded me how much fun I was having with it. I’m gonna get back to work on it soon now.
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Jan 13, 2023 20:07
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Yeah, metal parts are generally a trap. If you want something rugged, RPM makes plastic parts that are designed to bounce back from abuse.
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Jun 21, 2023 23:39
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In general, it is a bad idea to use thread lock with plastic parts. Some thread locking compounds use cyanoacrylate (CA). This has the tendency to make some plastics brittle or crack. Can you post a picture of the joint that is coming loose? I don’t immediately recognize the brand of vehicle you posted.
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Jun 21, 2023 23:43
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edit: sorry, I was phone posting and didn't realize this was a _4_ stroke _2_ cylinder engine. As long as you are using thread lock where specified in the instructions you do not need to worry about torque. Obviously don't use power tools to build this thing. I'm sure it's probably all aluminum so you'll really tear it up if you do. You should probably use some sort of oil during assembly. I am not sure it matters too much what kind. It probably should have come with some. After-run oil is what I would use if I were building it. The engine should be tight in some places for sure, that's how you can be sure it has tight compression. And that the valves are working correctly. Try removing the glow plugs to see how it moves with less compression. I am sure that this kit you are building is not as performance oriented as an rc racing engine. So a little bit of gap in the rings isn’t going to affect it all that much. Normal RC racing engines don't even have piston rings. They rely on a break-in process to mate the piston to the cylinder. All RC engine fuel is pre-mixed with oil from the factory. Choose something with relatively low nitro content like 15%. Or go for a “break-in” blend to ensure it has more oil content. Your engine probably isn't going to be running for long periods of time or under a lot of load. You don't need to worry a lot about a very specific blend. And the assembly manual may have more specific advice. kuffs fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Sep 14, 2023 |
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Sep 14, 2023 21:00
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IOwnCalculus posted:You're not wrong. Do we have an iRacing thread? I’d run in a goon league.
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Nov 4, 2023 01:49
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I’ve done the “guy with a stopwatch app” style rally racing and it’s really quite fun. Good camaraderie because there’s lots of downtime between the drivers. Everyone gets to spectate everyone else’s race. I think the class divisions you’ve suggested are exactly what we ran. I ran an XV-01 with a long damper kit. Fun, but the front motor ends up being a bit challenging for some kinds of terrain. Most successful car in our group was a 4tec with longer suspension. I don’t want to blame my car tho, the 4tec guy was also a very good driver. Many in our group preferred to chase after their car and so it was mostly self-marshaled. Reverse allowed since there isn’t any other traffic on the track. And if you have folks that want a driver’s stand, a pickup bed suffices for the typical kinds of tracks we made. If you get the process working well for you, you can run two cars at once by staging them half a lap apart. Just like real rally!
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Nov 8, 2023 07:53
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Especially with cheap shocks. They’re gonna leak or blow out.
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Dec 8, 2023 22:37
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| # ¿ May 11, 2024 16:12 |
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For an air filter, pretty much anything that scale should fit. Just find something off the shelf at your LHS if possible. It needs to have pre-filter oil on it. I recommend just buying pre-lubed filters.
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Mar 10, 2024 00:30
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