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ElJefeDeJefes posted:
What the gently caress is turbo?
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Jun 6, 2009 19:03
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ElJefeDeJefes posted:
I'm a Futaba guy myself, but if I was in the market for a radio I'd strongly consider a Spektrum unit now. Less batteries, lighter and reasonably priced. The DX3R even has telemetry (which is bad loving rear end) Pretty sure LiPos will work with that motor / esc. You'll need a charger and balancer iirc.
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Jun 6, 2009 19:07
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ElJefeDeJefes posted:Thanks for the info. I read about telemetry and it sound like a cool feature to have. I'll look into the Dx3R. I'm trying to spread the cost out for this over time, so maybe I'll wait a little longer to get the cool radio. I assume that once you have a good radio, you reuse it on any other cars you have in the future, so it's probably worth saving up for a good one. Whoops I got the model numbers wrong, it's the DX3S that has telemetry. http://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SPM3130 Comes with two receivers, one with telemetry and one without. And yes, a nice radio is worth it. I bought a Futaba 3PM 2.4 with 10 model memory. Adding another car to my arsenal is as simple as picking up a new receiver. Used receivers usually sell for around $65, so it's pretty great.
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Jun 6, 2009 19:43
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You know, you could just adjust the end points on your radio so that half-throttle is the max. Or, I don't know how programmable the ESC is, but I bet you can play with the settings on it to achieve the same thing.
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Jun 8, 2009 19:12
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Tower makes a bare-bones 2.4ghz for about $80 http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWPW0&P=7. I know nothing of the quality, but considering they're usually rebrands you may be able to find the original manufacturer. Out of stock right now though  edit: gently caress, receivers for that thing are cheap as hell! http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXLR4&P=7 $17!
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Jun 9, 2009 15:05
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Wasn't the Graphite Edition new enough to have the stealth tranny? If so, it's the same exact tranny that's in the RC10GT so you shouldn't have any problems with it.
kuffs fucked around with this message at 21:00 on Jun 11, 2009 |
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Jun 11, 2009 20:19
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The whole 'mix-and-match' part of RC is awesome. Nice work.
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Jun 14, 2009 05:43
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Shot of me at the local trophy race last weekend. Crowd wanted a profile shot, that's why I'm looking off-camera
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Jun 17, 2009 20:08
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I'm rolling an RC10GT, the kid is running a T4, I think. And yes, that kid is good. He took 1st in 3 classes that day.
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Jun 18, 2009 03:35
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The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity: To me that's pretty unsavoury. Am I being overly sensitive? > You put WHAT on your R/C car? Stupid poo poo we've seen people put on their R/C cars http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-items-sale-trade/311991-nitro-truck-ill-let-go-cheap.html tylerlong posted:okay my last thread got deleted i guess so im making a new one Jesus christ man, looks like it was assembled by a 5-year-old from a cave drawing. Band clamps for the radio gear? Bet you get some good range and servo response! Look at that bolt in the front steering linkage. Bet that doesn't bind on anything! What happened to the two speed? OH GOD THAT THING IS DIRECT DRIVE RIGHT TO THE REAR DIFF! gently caress WHERE ARE THE BRAKES? Probably doesn't need them considering the muffler is missing and there's no back pressure on the fuel tank! kuffs fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Jul 14, 2009 |
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Jul 14, 2009 18:22
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krushgroove, you ought to appreciate this http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-items-sale-trade/314350-hpi-rs4-1990s-electric.html
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Jul 24, 2009 02:46
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krushgroove posted:WOW, and only 40 bux, not a bad price. It's a dated design but anyone familiar with that should look at the Cup Racer and instantly see the similarities I was tempted to buy it for parts for my Nitro 2. But it doesn't look like he has a ball diff, which is what I'm really after. krushgroove posted:BTW, I couldn't mention this before but there's a(nother) new stadium truck coming out: http://www.hpiracing.com/blitz/ Looks fantastic, Erik did an amazing job in such a short time. I love all this short course stuff. I like everything about that truck except for the dogbones. The mudflaps are an especially nice touch.
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Jul 24, 2009 16:48
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If you have merely a small mechanical inclination you should be fine.
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Jul 27, 2009 06:51
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Hey SGT. Squeaks, just saw your Corvette made Best Paint in the latest issue of RCCA. Also saw a very good looking Datsun 240Z Cup Racer.
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Jul 28, 2009 02:33
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Laserface posted:Yeah, the "small man syndrome" models (as I call them) usually piss me off. Sometimes they are nice though because they include revised/hop-up parts but usually its just a wank factor. I think the ricer mentality exists in all forms of racing. I saw a Rustler on rctech.net the other day that had a custom machined aluminum chassis. On top of that he had a full set of aluminum arms, aluminum (why not get titanium?) turnbuckles, and piggyback shocks. You know, at least with plastic it will just flex a bit. Aluminum is just going to bend under any kind of serious stress. And then there's the part about dumping $300 worth of parts with negligible performance benefits on a $200 car. I also like the guys that put mods on their factory team trucks. Hey guys, you know that's pretty much the exact car they just won the worlds with, right? Really, invest your time in the track. I think the fact that I seem to be reasonably competitive (locally) with a blue chassis RC10GT is evidence enough for practice over gear. (And I still need a lot more practice to beat that kid)
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Jul 28, 2009 22:22
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G9-jZ_X8euw Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck I wish the rally class would catch on.
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Jul 29, 2009 05:20
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Somewhat Heroic posted:QUESTION FOR THE RC GOONS - WHICH HOBBY STORES DO YOU PATRONIZE? A Main when I can. Good prices and quick shipping. I fall back on Tower Hobbies because they stock a lot of older parts, but it takes like 2~3 days for the shipment to leave their warehouse. I am so used to ordering from Amazon / Newegg that it really pisses me off. The local stores are just a little bit too far away. For the $3 it would cost to drive out there, I might as well just order it online.
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Jul 31, 2009 17:22
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krushgroove posted:
I think you might be mixing your models? The DX3.0S comes with two receivers and 10 model memory whereas the DX3.0 has one receiver and 4 model memory. That being said, I think the DX3.0S is awesome. I probably would have picked that over my 3PM 2.4 if I had known about Spektrum when I got back into the hobby. Interchangeable grips, fewer batteries, and telemetry crap to play with. krushgroove posted:Does anyone know if it's possible to bind different brands of receivers/transmitters? I haven't seen much on this so I'm guessing it doesn't work. Pretty sure they all use different protocols.
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Sep 30, 2009 17:25
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I need to post later about the Losi XXT pipe that I'm trying to wedge on my Associated Monster GT. Have to cut down the sideskirt to make it fit. Previous owner had one of those stupid dual-exit rear exhausts from RDLogic mounted on it. http://www.rdlogics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?item=62750XP&type=store. Had some 40 million mile long, hand bent, 3 part header to get it back there too. Then I'll be stuffing a JR Z9100T servo on it for steering as the cheapass hobbico servo isn't really doing the job. 150oz/in to 370oz/in ought to be significant. Pics later.
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Sep 30, 2009 17:38
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kuffs posted:I need to post later about the Losi XXT pipe that I'm trying to wedge on my Associated Monster GT. Have to cut down the sideskirt to make it fit. The patient  An Associated Monster GT 4.6SE from what I can guess. It has a 2-speed tranny, but lacks piggyback shocks? Engine has been swapped for an OS .30VG-ES. That retarded battery box came like that And here's the terrible RDLogic pipe with ghetto 3-piece manifold.  This thing is loud as hell. It also seems incredibly hard to tune. I am not entirely convinced it is providing enough backpressure to the fuel tank. The new pipe  It's a direct pull-off from an RTR Losi XXL. Some people apparently buy RTRs and part them out for ebay. Whatever, I got a decent pipe and manifold for $20 shipped. This is pretty much the most awesome way to get parts. Stuff like Traxxas gear is incredibly easy to get. Now here comes the problem  Also pictured: my grody-rear end exhaust gasket  The sideskirts get in the way. I'm not too torn up about chopping it up, I have a spare. So, after removing the skirt I can fit the muffler on and start to do a little more analysis.   In my test fitting earlier, I was concerned about proximity to the battery box. But that doesn't look like it will be a problem. My incredibly sloppy work on the skirt  And some test fitting  The pipe contacts the skirt somewhere toward the middle and I ended up sanding it down. I'll post the finished product tomorrow. Also posting tomorrow  lovely hobbico servo replaced with  Buying used rules kuffs fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Oct 1, 2009 |
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Oct 1, 2009 03:41
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I was fitting the body on last night and started to realize that this was probably not an amazing idea. The pipe doesn't fit underneath the body, so I'll have to cut it up. Luckily, I have two bodies: the stock one, and a much nicer Proline one. I guess I won't get hung up about chopping the stock body. When I bought the pipe, I just kind of assumed it would fit. There was space on the left side and a notch for the pipe tip in the skirt. There was even a hole for the pipe spring. But now after all this work, I'm starting to think I should have just bought a stock pipe. Or at least done a bit more hunting on Tower for the dimensions. Oh well, lesson learned.
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Oct 1, 2009 21:38
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Somewhat Heroic posted:I am surprised nobody brought up this up yet: This doesn't surprise me at all. The Slayer is a Revo 3.3 chassis with shorter arms. The 1/16th E-Revo and Slash are the same chassis, which is a shrunken E-Revo chassis. So, it follows that a 4x4 Slash would come from an E-Revo and thus potentially get the 1/8th Mamba that goes in the Brushless E-Revo. Now, I wonder what this means for CORR racing. Slash 2wd is a popular spec class because it's cheap as gently caress. We got CORR racing from that because the other manufacturers jumped on board. And when the other manufacturers got on, they kind of stepped up the game. The 2wd Slash is an old Stampede chassis, it's not really in the same league as the T4 chassis in the SC10. I guess what I'm really saying is, I hope this spurs Associated to make an SC104. An RC10B44 with different arms and towers. poo poo, that's a tempting custom build. I need to take a closer look at the arms on the SC10 and B44 This would have been a trivial kitbash with the classic tub chassis in the day. (Woooooo RC10DS! Goddamn, I wish I could find one of those conversion kits for my old RC10GT tub chassis) kuffs fucked around with this message at 21:00 on Oct 9, 2009 |
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Oct 9, 2009 20:41
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You know, I said all that stuff about Traxxas chassis commonality. But that image doesn't have the inboard suspension from all the other cars I listed. I'm pretty sure I see a left front dogbone rather than gleam from the steering linkage.
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Oct 9, 2009 21:04
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Holy hell http://cgi.ebay.com/RC10-DS-VINTAGE...3#ht_500wt_1182 I didn't know HPI made a two-speed for those.
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Oct 9, 2009 21:07
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Buggies and stadium trucks will have trouble in grass. Depending on how thick the brush is, a monster truck may not work all that well. Got any pics of the place or similar places?
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Oct 22, 2009 00:12
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SGT. Squeaks posted:Somewhat Heroic- you lucky devil! I love me some HPI. I should have waited instead of building my SC10 that I only ran once. I've been pretty tempted to get an SC10. Consider selling it? edit: I still want an RC10GT body too
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Oct 22, 2009 00:17
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SGT. Squeaks posted:Sorry about the body. I decided to go back into the games industry and I've been so busy on the job hunt I haven't been able to paint. I was getting burned out and losing my love of rc racing and decided to do it part-time instead. I recently moved to another house temporarily, and all my stuff is boxed up because I'm planning on moving out of state once I land a new games job. Once I get things figured out I'll be painting again (though part-time). I've got about 25 clear bodies waiting to be painted so I really need to get things going again before all those bodies are obsolete. Best of luck finding a new job  Also, I jumped on a pretty good deal for an SC10 just now. But I'm sure you'll have no trouble selling yours if you decided to. Word of advice: I'm pretty sure RC stuff goes for more money on eBay rather than rctech.net. I think I'm gonna drop a velineon system in it. Take-off parts sell for about $100 for the motor and esc. What kind of pinion should I be running? Can I expect decent runtime out of a 3300 Nimh pack?
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Oct 22, 2009 17:26
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Welp, just bought a Novak GTB SS with a Ballistic 10.5 for it off of eBay. And rctech seems to agree that 22/87 is the best combo with the SC10 and a 10.5. Other sources seem to say that 10mins is expected for 3300 packs. By the way, I picked up 3300mAh NiMh packs for like $30ea at Radio Shack. Seems pretty cheap compared to hobby store prices. I initially got them for my starter box, but we'll see how they do in this role. Anyone got a good idea for charge rates on these kinds of things? They aren't marked for any of that kind of information. I know my 1500mAh packs back in the day would charge with a 15-minute timer. That puts the charge rate at about 4A. Think I can safely stuff 10A into these packs? (Please excuse me on half of this. My last electric was an RC10 gold pan with lovely 1500 NiCd packs and a 15t Trinity speed gem about 10 years ago. I have no real knowledge of how things roll in these modern times.)
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Oct 23, 2009 19:52
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Wow, that's what I get for only looking at Tower Hobbies. http://www.amainhobbies.com/product...nnector-4200mAh 4200mAh Store-brand packs for $22.50? drat! But, seems to imply that cheap cells can't handle more than 4~5A.
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Oct 23, 2009 20:00
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SGT. Squeaks posted:I know the feeling. Besides my Spec 18R the Sc10 is the first electric car I've ran in years. Its all nitro for me. When I picked up the parts to convert my sc10 I had about a dozen questions for the hobby guy. When I last raced electric, Nihm was brand new. Most guys still ran Nicd. And Lipo's? WTF are those? Yeah, I remember RCCA did a special Clodzilla with dual brushless motors from airplanes back in the day. Nobody had even really considered stuffing one of those beasts in a car yet. (They were also hilariously expensive and not sanctioned by any race bodies.) Since I am just getting back into electric a bit, I decided I didn't want to deal with brushed. I was gonna get good, new technology right off the bat. Of course, I don't really have the money to blow on nice LiPos yet, so I'll just lurk the B/S/T forum and look for a good deal on used ones. A GTB and 10.5 is probably a little too nice for an SC10. Not like I need sensored smoothness or programmable profiles for bashing in my buddy's backyard track. But at $150, it's pretty much the same price as a NIB Velineon or Havoc system.
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Oct 23, 2009 20:09
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Oh hey, shout out to Duratrax customer service. They're sending me new alligator clips for my ICE charger, no questions asked.
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Oct 23, 2009 20:12
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So, rctech.net is gushing about Turnigy 5000mAh LiPo packs. http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/332730-turnigy-5000-20c-hardcase-lipo.html Around $20~30 from HobbyKing http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/lithium_polymer_battery_configuration.asp?cap=4&con=2 I'm buying two of the soft case 20C packs. I can buy 5 of those packs for the cost of a 'branded' pack. I think it's worth it.
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Oct 23, 2009 22:00
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krushgroove posted:jesus, 10A? if you're in the A-main and want to get massive punch for a couple of laps you might want to try 7 or 8 amps, 10 amps will just kill your pack quickly. If you're just playing 5 amps is fine, that's a decent balance of power/lifetime (balanced towards lifetime, probably), if you're racing try 6 amps but you'll get fewer good runs out of the pack. Pro drivers run their NiMH packs maybe 50 times before getting rid of them (soapbox on: please try to recycle your old batteries), but you're not a pro driver so don't worry about getting maximum punch from your pack. Cool, that's the kind of info I was looking for.
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Oct 25, 2009 23:43
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gently caress, I have a problem. This SC10 is awesome and electric cars are amazing now. I have this 10.5 geared low so that I don't outrun my friends with 13.5's and the runtime is great. I only burned through about 2/3's of a 3300 pack before I got bored of doing laps in the street. Didn't time it, but I was out there for a while. That was last night. I've already posted in the local indoor racing thread to see what's up. I'm gonna see about stuffing some FT shocks from a spare parts RC10GT stash on it. If only Associated hadn't gone through about 3 different shock cartridge designs I could figure out if either of my rebuild kits will work on them. So, this truck came with 12mm hex conversion kit for running Slash tires and rims. Previous owner had put Pro-line Epic Bead-loc rims on it with stadium truck tires mounted on it. Partial ribbed in front, holeshots in the rear. First off, it looks stupid. The tires and rims don't even fit under the body like they should. Short Course trucks are about scale looks. Second, why would you put stadium truck tires on this thing? Just buy a loving T4! And last of all, the bead-locs weigh about a hundred million pounds. Rotating mass heyoooooooooooooo. I really like the captive hinge pin design on the T4/B4/SC10. Sooo much nicer than dealing with e-clips.
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Oct 29, 2009 19:08
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Any 12mm hex conversion that was done is probably hack. Pick up a set of the new Trepador tires from HPI. They work freaking awesome on my Blitz. AE had a problem with the first batch of their wheels on the SC10. They would strip quicker than a whore with a 100 dollars. Also - the Team Associated off road shock design has remained unchanged for over two decades. You will want Associated part number 6440 to rebuild any shocks that have been on the GT, or SC10. The other thing to get is the new bleeder caps, #6443. Make building AE shocks 100 times easier, and you get it right the first time, every time. Yeah, I'm pretty sure this is just the front knuckles from a Slash fitted to this thing. The nuts holding the wheels on are 7mm. The PO included a pair of stripped AE wheels with some Pro-line treads on them. I'm running the stock tires and wheels right now, don't know the vintage for sure. Guess I'll find out if/when I strip them .Thanks a bunch for the tip on the offroad shocks. I'm pretty sure I have two of those kits. I stuffed a set of of TC3 shocks on my Nitro RS4 2 and was surprised to see a new cartridge design. I had just assumed that the design covered the entire line. I also remember finding a couple different part numbers when looking for rebuild kits a while back and that fueled my confusion.
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Oct 29, 2009 21:04
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Man, I did some informal SCT racing at a friend's backyard track today. That was some of the most fun I have ever had.
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Nov 2, 2009 02:41
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Anyone have any insight to running LiPo rx packs? The NiCd pack in my RC10GT seems to be royally hosed (2 runaways recently). And I've been very pleased with the Chinese LiPo packs that I bought for my SC10. From what I gather, TURNIGY 3A UBEC w/ Noise Reduction + ZIPPY Flightmax 2100mAh 2S3P Receiver Pack = true bliss? Any leads on a voltage regulator that will cut-off or provide an alarm if I get too low on the pack? I have a Futaba 2.4Ghz system and the failsafe will activate if the rx pack gets too low, but I don't know where that cutoff lies. I suppose 92% efficiency on that UBEC combined with a 6v output setting means it will stop providing 6v below 6.52v input. 6.4v is about the ideal cutoff for a 2S LiPo pack.
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Dec 7, 2009 17:59
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That sounds like it would probably work with a throttle servo as well. But I was kind of hoping for an all-in-one regulator + low voltage cutoff.
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Dec 7, 2009 20:44
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Yeah, that was the second option. It's not like I'm draining it nearly as fast as my SC10 drains its main battery.
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Dec 7, 2009 22:17
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James Woods posted:rally stuff fuuuuuuuuuuck, I wish rally would become popular . I'm holding out for the Kyosho DRXfake edit: oh fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck
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Dec 10, 2009 23:38
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