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kuffs posted:I was pricing out a Multi4 with power supply, data cable, and the correct balancer board and it comes to about $135 after shipping. Problem is, Hyperion 606i's go for about $140 shipped on eBay right now. Have you used the Hyperions? Is the software really that awesome? Am I going to want to put a Windows VM on my laptop and start profiling my batteries? I've used a friends Hyperion (I can't remember what the hell model it was, but I know it had a dataport option just like my Multi4) and it looked really nice. I got the Multi4 because it's hilariously adjustable. You can tell it when in the charging process to start balancing, cold weather mode, various temperature settings, it's wonderful. I love just selecting the battery I'm charging from the profiles and it's all I have to do. Note that part of the reason I got it was that I got the data cable for free, and I had an appropriate power supply lying around, so it cost me a hell of a lot less than the whole package does. Honestly, it's really a toss up, though if the Hyperion's on eBay don't include the data cable, I'd consider getting one. When you get into these fancier chargers, the profiling and adjustability is really the big change.
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# ¿ Jan 12, 2010 21:06 |
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# ¿ May 12, 2024 19:02 |
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Oh drat, I thought that was one of the data port models. In that case, it looks pretty promising for the Multi4. Just for reference, this is the only reason I never bother to use my Multi4 for anything but balance charging lipos. That's what you're given for the rest of the battery types. I just don't trust it. I haven't even bothered soldering a deans connector onto it yet.
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# ¿ Jan 12, 2010 23:06 |
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Laserface posted:i might just get the larger slash + brushless since itd work out about the same price and still look how i want it to look and do the stuff i want it to do. That's a good idea, especially if you're just bashing. The normal slash is already a blast to drive, and it's even better with a brushless system.
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# ¿ Jan 19, 2010 01:27 |
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kuffs posted:krushgroove, you or your crew might be interested in this http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-items-sale-trade/361719-hpi-super-f1-w-spare-chassis.html That is unbelievably tempting.
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# ¿ Jan 20, 2010 18:29 |
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Website design looks fantastic, and I hope it takes off. I'm going to stop looking because if I do, it's going to force me to take the plunge I've been avoiding and go buy an SS.
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# ¿ Jan 22, 2010 21:42 |
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Every single time I see pictures of Bajas, I get closer to selling all my RC stuff and getting an SS. Some day I'll seriously stop just talking about it in this thread and buy one.
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# ¿ Jan 26, 2010 07:11 |
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kuffs posted:Seriously, everything Traxxas makes is goddamn bulletproof. The local novice class is full of Slashes. Those kids will be tearing around the track with the throttle mashed the entire time. They ram into walls, each other, and lawn dart off the jumps. I have never seen one break no matter how hard they drive it. During the summer, there were a pair of guys with brushless e-revos running in the monster truck bracket. They always placed at the top. After the mains were over, they'd usually treat us with a 20ft jump to clear the run of obstacles in the center of the track. I think I've seen one of them break a hinge pin. I miss my slash. All I have right now is my Tamiya Durga. Granted, it's extremely fast and I placed really really well in all the local races I ran this summer, but good GOD DOES THE THING BREAK. I've never ran it at the track without breaking hinge pins, a arms, steering kunckles, diffs, spur gears.. The biggest problem is hitting jumps at full speed while just dicking around in practice and landing 10 feet past where even the 1/8th guys hit and breaking stuff on flat landings. The motor doesn't help at all, but god does it make me miss running my slash on streets and bouncing off curbs and trees without a care in the world.
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# ¿ Jan 29, 2010 04:25 |
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Surely if there's a $200 difference you could get somebody to buy you one and ship it over taxed as a gift* *not that I would ever condone that
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# ¿ Feb 1, 2010 22:29 |
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You may be able to find a site that carries parts, but it'll either be expensive, shady, or just an eBay front store that's going to be shipping from china anyway. When I had my Lamy coax, I got everything from eBay and it worked out well. It sucks having to wait for parts, but it's a lot cheaper and usually the only place you can find parts for most smaller helis. I'm blessed and haven't broken a single part on either of my little micro MCX or MSR helis, and I've crashed them both a lot. The MCX in particular has been crashed somewhere around 40 times. It's a damned champ.
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# ¿ Feb 4, 2010 20:21 |
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It's a good thing that I've been broke both times you've posted gorgeous old HPI stuff.
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# ¿ Feb 10, 2010 17:58 |
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That's a drat nice looking radio. I love my Airtronix MX3FHSS but goddamn are extra receivers expensive. Sorta makes me wish I'd gotten a Futaba.
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# ¿ Feb 22, 2010 19:54 |
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kuffs posted:That's part of what drew me to the KO. Extra 2ch receivers are $55 new. I paid $65 used for Futaba 3ch ones. Holy poo poo that's cheap. Airtronics receivers are around $90 brand new, and they don't exist used (as far as I can tell).
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# ¿ Feb 22, 2010 21:09 |
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A decent proportion of RC stuff sorta prays on retards. I guess that mirrors normal car stuff as well, because I'm sure you can buy $700 Porsche toolbags and other useless things made out of anodized blue aluminum.
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# ¿ Feb 23, 2010 06:37 |
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http://www.tonysscrews.com/
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# ¿ Mar 28, 2010 23:30 |
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Phat_Albert posted:Hell yeah plane people Me, although I sold my DX7 and all I have is a 3DHS EBT and SHP, and an unbuilt Ritewing Zephyr FPV platform. I really need to get a better job so I can do more with them. I haven't flown either of the operating planes in about a year.
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# ¿ Sep 14, 2010 21:06 |
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Sloppy posted:Does this seem like a good deal for a used 2WD Slash? It looks pretty good, but he's going to want at least $400 for it, and it's going to be completely undriveable. Flipping over backwards constantly is only fun for a little while.
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# ¿ Sep 18, 2010 20:55 |
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Maybe not, but it won't be the kind of thing where you can just pick it up and go race around at full throttle and have a good time without worry. You'll flip it very easily and sliding around corners and looking badass will take some practice. That said, it will be very fast and fun. $330 is a great deal, too. The charger that comes with it is braindead easy, having lipos is wonderful, Just keep in mind that it won't be water/mud/snowproof anymore, which (for me, anyway) is a major bummer. e: I don't know how I missed the starting $330 price in the ad the first time Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 22:01 on Sep 18, 2010 |
# ¿ Sep 18, 2010 21:58 |
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Sloppy posted:That's a dealbreaker for me, for sure. What about the new motor makes it not -proof anymore? The stock slash speed controller/reciever/servos are all waterproof because they're all either in a box or well sealed from the factory. The new motor is brushless and water will short it out. Normal brushed motors will actually run underwater. I can't see from the picture, but a lot of the time when people change stuff on Slashes, they don't spend the time to waterproof the speed controller.
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# ¿ Sep 18, 2010 23:32 |
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Sure they do. How do you think the stock Slash works underwater? In fact, that's how a lot of people (mostly people who've been in the hobby for a long time and have a lot of holdovers about specific motor break-in) break in brushed motors. Throw 3v or so on the motor and let it sit in a glass of water for an hour or so. It's not something you want to do endlessly, but electricity isn't going to go jumping around through the water when it has a perfectly good motor to be running. e: as far as I know, brushless motors will work underwater as well, but the sensor electronics are delicate enough that it causes problems and shortens the life.
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# ¿ Sep 19, 2010 01:21 |
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Nerobro posted:An hour? who did you hear that from. You run it till the water turns grey. Runnign brushed motors under water massively accelerates brush wear. The whole point of running them underwater is to seat the brushes. :-) It gives you the "broken in" brushes, without the "worn out" bushings. I just read this and then had to go wander around the old rc forums I used to read and didn't find any mentions of an hour. I seem to recall some of the older guys doing things like that. I've never properly broken in a brushed motor because I've never had to use them for any period of time.
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# ¿ Sep 19, 2010 03:45 |
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Anybody want to buy an airtronics MX3 FHSS 3ch setup? I've got a transmitter and receiver sitting around doing nothing. I love the thing, but I only really ever use my slash, and it's just not worth bothering setting it up for the MX3. e: also, anyone want to buy a novak 6.5 brushless setup?
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# ¿ Feb 1, 2011 21:17 |
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Phat_Albert posted:I might be interested in the Airtronics TX and RX and the Novak, actually. What kind of price are you looking for? Whats the difference between the MX3 and the MX3X?? The MX3X appears to have some nifty settings for crawlers and stuff, but beyond that they seem pretty similar. I was hoping for $115 for the TX/RX and $120 for the Novak setup. email me at username at gmail.com if you're interested
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# ¿ Feb 2, 2011 04:04 |
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If you want an Airtronics MX-3 FHSS in great shape, I know a certain forum member that's selling one for a song in SA-Mart Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Feb 11, 2011 |
# ¿ Feb 11, 2011 03:06 |
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You make a pretty important point about locally supported bodies/brands. My first real rc buggy was a Tamiya Durga, and it was an absolute whore of a car to fix because parts had to come from china or another asian country, and that's even if I could find them in the first place. Never again.
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# ¿ Aug 13, 2011 21:43 |
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Yeah, I'm considering something that's been around for a good while like an Associated B44 or the like. Traxxas is undeniably one of the easiest companies to find parts for. My local shop carries every single damned part for the majority of their cars, and the place is miniscule. e: That Tamiya Durga WAS however an absolute BLAST of a car. I absolutely loved the way it handled and the way it went together. It was an awesome design and a great body for not much money but it was just tragically difficult to find parts. And it went through a-arms like nobody's business.
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# ¿ Aug 14, 2011 01:19 |
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Anderson Powerpoles, or one of the variants. They're absolutely fantastic. e: To anybody who hasn't used them, they work beautifully for a lot of things. Plug in jumper cables on a service truck is something I've wanted to do with them for a long time. They come all the way up to 4/0 350amp size. http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-powerpoles/powerpole-sets/ Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 01:46 on Aug 22, 2011 |
# ¿ Aug 22, 2011 01:43 |
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While I do love powerpoles and use them for all sorts of things, I use deans on all my RC stuff. They're nice and small and simple and work beautifully. Also, they're easy as hell to solder if you're somewhat practiced at soldering. A good chisel tip, clean surfaces and pre tinning the plug and the wire makes it pretty impossible to screw up.
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# ¿ Aug 25, 2011 01:51 |
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Yeah, the HPI Baja's are 2 stroke and can pretty easily have another fuel tank thrown on. e: there's also this http://www.hpiracing.com/barstow2vegas/
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# ¿ Dec 15, 2011 06:20 |
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Son of a bitch, every hobby I get out of immediately gets a thousand times cheaper. I sold all of my RC stuff a while ago and now the Turnigy air radios are ridiculously good and hilariously inexpensive, and apparently it's the same with chargers and batteries.
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# ¿ Apr 4, 2012 23:55 |
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A year or two or something ago, I sold all my RC stuff. Now I want to get back into it, and I'm (weirdly) torn between getting straight into 1/8 electric or just getting another 2wd slash. What a loving weird decision.
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# ¿ May 17, 2012 11:13 |
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Maybe I'm out of touch with servo savers, but I'd be shocked if the servo saver on something that small is soft enough to actually have any servo-saving action. Personally I'd just take it off and enjoy. I doubt it'd hurt the servo, but even if it dies in a few months, a new micro servo is like $9.
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# ¿ Oct 28, 2012 06:58 |
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HPI Q32 as fun as it looks? I haven't dicked with RC since I had a Tamiya DB01 moneypit. Never screwed around with mini/micro stuff but it seems like a good gateway drug to get back into RC.
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# ¿ Apr 3, 2015 07:16 |
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Nerobro posted:Those 4wd buggies always seemed to be lots of money... I can't believe they sold it with a beer can motor. Tamiya is weird like that though. Yeah, my other and completely different thought was to go for a used Losi SCT 1/24 brushless.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/201321441280?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT My DB01 was fun and ridiculously fast (novak 3.5R and a slipper clutch), but it was just driveline/suspension destruction at all times.
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# ¿ Apr 4, 2015 23:44 |
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Welp, after messing around for a week or so with a 1/24 sct I got off craigslist for $40, I ordered a Yeti XL kit I was trying to decide if I wanted to get back into RC, and apparently I do. I've still got my old Airtronics MX3 FHSS, but I really didn't like the binding glitch nonsense I always had with it. I might pick up a FlySky GT-3C, or maybe I'll spring for something in the $100-120 range. I'd really like AVC for something this huge and.. floppy? Haven't ever experienced it, but it sure sounds nice. The plan is Motor: Neu-Castle 1515 1Y 2200kv ESC: HobbyWing QUICRUN-WP-8BL150 Servo: Hitec HS-7954SH From what I'm reading, I might need a programmable BEC to max out the voltage to the servo. I only rarely used BEC's in my former air stuff, and it wasn't anything performance based. The last time I messed with fast RC, it was Novak brushless stuff and a Tamiya DB01. This is going to take a while to put together, but I'll hopefully having it running by midsummer or so. I build trails for a living and I'm surrounded by parks, so a sort of perfect trails drive/bash/grass monster sounds like something I'll like. e: and this seemed like an amazingly good deal http://www.ebay.com/itm/261736906366 Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 23:10 on Apr 10, 2015 |
# ¿ Apr 10, 2015 23:08 |
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Awesome, thanks for the info. I'm sort of waffling on the motor/esc combo. Since I'm taking my time with the build, I might just go for it. $45ish for a bec and programmer, and the motor/esc that I was planning on is over $200, so at that point it's not a giant leap to just go for a Tekin combo or something similar. Did you use the Hotwire programmer for your ESC? I'm blown away that this sort of thing is even possible. The last time I was into RC it was buttons and beeps. Thanks for the servo horn link too. I hadn't found a good answer online on which would fit without doing too much clearancing on the body, because who knows if the Hitec one will fit.. I think one of the first things I do to it will be the Hot Racing bellcrank.
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# ¿ Apr 11, 2015 18:24 |
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Yeti XL talk: Is it worth going for a sensored setup (Tekin 1350kv/1550kv and 6s or 2250kv and 4s?) or just going the cheaper route and getting a sensorless 2200KV setup that will run up to 6s? The XL is so drat big that it seems fun as hell for doing trails+random crawling. I'd like the top speed/bashing potential, but I'd also really like to have a bunch of torque and as much runtime as possible. The Tekin stuff isn't waterproof either, which is a little rough. It's a hard choice. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 06:57 on Apr 12, 2015 |
# ¿ Apr 12, 2015 06:43 |
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e: left hand threads. i'm a big stupid.
Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 01:39 on Apr 16, 2015 |
# ¿ Apr 16, 2015 01:06 |
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Finished getting the Yeti XL kit together and good lord it's huge. Looking forward to getting the electronics in there and getting it running. At least for now it's fun to wiggle around on the suspension. Makes the little SCT look even smaller than usual Kit is pretty good, a couple misprints relating to which number is which on some parts trees, and a couple misprints on screw lengths. Nothing a little deductive reasoning can't solve.
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# ¿ Apr 25, 2015 03:52 |
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jdfording posted:Your going to love it! I put the Axial 24t servo horn in for my planned Hitec (I think I got the idea from you, actually), and those are actually the batteries I had planned. I want something with stupid long run times so I can go wander through MTB trails and have fun for an 45m+ and not have to carry the thing back out. At some point probably before I even get all the electronics in it, I'm going to throw in the DHawk bellcrank to take the ridiculous slop out of the whole steering. Didn't know a steel rod was worth it though, that's good to know. I've got a bunch of different shock setups that I've found people talking about online all written down so I have some ideas for a baseline setup, and 50wt seems pretty common. I'm going to throw on aluminum shock caps without the fake piggyback for clearance and because the shock caps seem like a weak point from what I've read. I'm also bending up aluminum panels instead of using the plastic because I don't want to paint anything and it's giving me something to do at work after hours. Also it's cheaper than buying the electronics
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# ¿ Apr 27, 2015 01:11 |
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# ¿ May 12, 2024 19:02 |
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Speaking of crawlers, I got this poor jacked up thing Losi 1/18 MRC. It's had a hard life and some really weird ineffective homegrown mods done to it. Still, even with upper links hitting the shocks and the wheels rubbing on everything, puffed up lipo, etc it's a blast. I'm going to at least give it new shocks, rebuild the servo mount/4 link plates and probably make some bent lower links. I already picked up a much smaller battery for it. It desperately needs less flex and steering mods. I don't have any plans of doing comps, and I don't think anybody does 1.9" these days anyway. Mostly, it's fun to just crawl around my apartment.
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# ¿ May 10, 2015 16:02 |