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Tony’s is definitely a good brand. The stainless ones aren’t any stronger from some of the prevailing brands. We sell the Tony’s sets for large scale and I push people that direction over stainless every time. FullForce RC makes ‘pit box’ hardware kits for large scales and they might for smaller models too. Those are good too if they have them.
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Mar 23, 2021 00:09
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They are totally capable of lipo. The problem will be usually from extended run times from lipo batteries. If you ran 8–10 minutes at a time it’d last a lot longer. Another factor will be the surface you’re driving on. Grass and high bite surfaces will put more strain on the motor. The longer the drive will only exacerbate the heat issue.
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Mar 24, 2021 03:19
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Brushless is incredible. Virtually maintenance free and will have the same consistent performance outing after outing. As long as you never overgear the thing and get it too hot they will last virtually forever. They are more efficient, they make more power. The ability to overpower the chassis is quite easy to do. They are better in every single way. You also can just program the thing so that you are only using 50% power or whatever you want so that it is not balls out in your face fast all the time. I just use the end point adjustment on my radio before handing it over to a younger kid. The extra bonus of running them at a lower output means you will get longer run times. I mean expect like a 30 minute run time with a standard 2S lipo battery. This will also mean you have a built in upgrade as soon as your kid is capable of driving faster.
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Mar 24, 2021 17:18
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McTinkerson posted:More Tamiya content!  Seriously good work! The gold wheels/BFGs and lights are a nice touch. I need to get around to finishing (and driving) my Sand Scorcher. Lost all my drive after I missed the deadline to take it to my dune trip earlier this year but oh well. I went camping over Independence Day weekend and had all four crawlers out in force. My youngest (4) got an SCX10III RTR Gladiator last month and he has been great with it! My daughter drove my Jeep, and my son and I were driving our VS4-10's. I really like how sure footed the VS4 is. The Gladiator with the long wheelbase just works on the SCX10III though. They really got the shocks set up right on it. Plenty of roll and sway, I think it drives better than the SCX10III Rubicon. 
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Jul 19, 2021 22:24
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:I got my kiddo a latrax teton for Xmas and he is also over the moon about it. Already bought a spare set of a-arms for it because of course. Team Fasteddy is the best. Quick shipping, best price and a quality set of bearings. Many bearing resellers will source their bearings through him and I know of one manufacturer that buys direct to use in their kits.
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Jan 4, 2023 04:15
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No, threadlock is for metal on metal screws. If a screw is coming out on plastic you might have a stripped plastic piece. A way to ‘thread lock’ a troublesome screw on a plastic piece could be some clear nail polish on the screw. Some people will say use ‘CA’ (super) glue but that’s not ideal. It can craze some plastics and it turns brittle.
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Jun 19, 2023 03:30
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Enos Shenk posted:So I happened into a thing. I managed to acquire an older Traxxas Revo for pretty much nothing. The small electric motor is just an electric starter for the nitro engine. It is supposed to ignite the glow plug at the same time as spinning the engine over. It does nothing else. The receiver and servos are powered by a separate onboard receiver battery. It’s been a while since I’ve put my hands in a Revo but I’m fairly sure it will be a 2/3A 5 cell 6V flat battery. It might be a 5 cell hump pack. Just throw that radio away. Even a cheap $40 2.4ghz radio on Amazon will fair better. Flysky or turbo racing, I don’t care. The third channel is for reverse. Most people throw a reverse lockout kit on because it saves a ton of rotational weight and complexity. The reverse never worked that great anyways. I would remove the engine and get the electric starter off. You’ll be able to determine what’s causing the bind. Could be a failed one-way bearing of the electric starter. It could also be gummed up internals. A couple drops of marvel mystery oil or similar down the glow plug hole and carb and just using your hand to spin the flywheel (with the electric starter off) will determine if everything is working as it should on the inside. My advice? Don’t throw too much money at the stock TRX engine. They were so temperamental and I’m saying that as someone that can tune the poo poo out of a nitro engine. Find something that will drop in place. There were a few different engine brands out that made some revo drop in compatible engines but I’ve not had hands in a revo for a long time to be able to suggest something current.
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Sep 10, 2023 04:19
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I love Rally cars and will one day build one. I just want to make a course to run it on like those videos you see posted on Instagram etc. I have been plugging away at some new stuff. I was able to finally score a Promoto MX. There is not a lot that raises my pulse in RC these days - but this thing does it. This is a segment defining model the way that the T-Maxx/Micro RS4/Baja/Slash all defined their segments. It is the biggest release in the last decade.  https://i.imgur.com/wlrTmk6.mp4 The thing that makes it so good is it works. It freaking works GREAT. They nailed it in a way I have not seen for some time. Rumor is this is a project in the making some ~6 years ago. The technology they were able to pump into this will translate into other platforms too.
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Oct 13, 2023 20:03
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The shaft is pushed in when the cap is tightened. My method: Fill the shock with oil. Let the bubbles rise up. Install the cap with the shaft out. Loosen the cap 2 or 3 turns. Push the shaft in. Oil is displaced and comes out of the cap. If no oil comes out loosen the cap 1 more turn. Once the shaft bottoms out; hold the shaft pushed in; tighten the cap. Wipe off the oily mess. Cycle the shock to make sure there is no binding at full compression. https://youtu.be/5H90Az4m37s?si=PKF1tVqd8JTwlp7- A video I made for one of my cars. A bladder style shock but the principles are the same.
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Dec 9, 2023 04:48
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SCX24 or Traxxas TRXm is the move for sure. They are worth the money. They work really well.
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Dec 18, 2023 04:17
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I’m phone posting but forgive me. You want to look for a peak detection charger. Multi chemistry chargers are the norm (can charge lithium and nickel batteries). You’re going to need a JST charge lead. I wouldn’t charge at higher than 0.5 Amps. Nickel batteries do not require balance charging. I’ve got a video I made for work on how most 4 button style chargers work. Super easy. https://youtu.be/T7s4wAnZiP8?si=qtKvB-C-6qXeK3ne
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Feb 23, 2024 05:24
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Grumbletron 4000 posted:Who needs LEDs! You have unlocked so many closed portions of my brain just now. That looks to be an OFNA Ultra LX Comp based on the front upper chassis brace and radiotray layout. The engine is an OFNA Force engine - the Force 26. The engines were fairly reliable and generally pretty user friendly. Nitro engines are fickle beasts though. When broken in wrong they will never run right. Run them too lean? Toast. That would run great on some 25 or 30% nitro fuel. Use a McCoy MC-9 glow plug. Generally speaking larger 1/8 engines ran better on 30% and using a colder temp plug. Smaller displacement (1/10) want a hot plug (MC-59). Your carb is on backwards. It needs to be rotated 180 degrees. It should have a small locknut that you can loosen to remove the carb. You will probably want to use some permatex ultra blue or ultra copper to seal the base of the carb (after cleaning) as that is a common place to leak air.
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Mar 8, 2024 22:12
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Nerobro posted:Traction is a problem in .. all of american racing right now. Nearly all. Traction is so high that cars are being optimized for LCG as opposed to having the chassis work. The exception is people running in actual parking lots, or outdoor asphalt tracks. This kind of racing still exists with large scale. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9C-50vyQt6M&t=11s The cool thing is the field is not jam packed full of "pros" so literally anyone willing to put in the time to practice can dial their cars in and become competitive. The whole racing scene is a total mess right now. That was largely brought on by the manufacturers along with external pressure of the economy; primarily real estate. People that race want the best. They want the best batteries, the best motors, cars, tires, servos - all of it. Manufacturers then push design and materials and everything which increases cost. Speaking generally - racers feel entitled and think they are better than they actually are and that by choosing Brand Z; Brand Z owes this racer something? So they seek a sponsorship. Manufacturers started caving ~15 years ago in giving these "driver deals"; where they were a 50% driver (getting 50% off of retail). So these drivers essentially become a contracted driver. They leverage that first deal into other deals; now they are getting 50% off of the chassis, then tires, then electronics. They are now buying directly from the manufacturer rather than buying from the hobby shop and race track that they are racing at. The only utility the race track provides is a place to race. They then start pushing the track owner by saying "I am a sponsored driver, I will pay for races, but I should get practice free" and these bro deals start to permeate through everything. Then you have a sponsored driver break a part at the race track and they want the shop owner to sell them the replacement part at a discount because "They are a team driver, and they know the shop owner gets them for X price and blah blah". The drivers get extremely entitled. You get that track owner that pushes back and says "No". Racer throws a fit and rage quits and "never comes back". This scene has played out so many times over. The track owner that started out of a passion years ago is now ground down to nothing. Fielding complaints about track surface, refereeing drivers behaviors, tech inspections, ballooning lease payments and more make the romance of owning a track less fun. Only a very few amount of people are capable of weathering the finances and bullcrap of track ownership that this is a diminishing market. I would not hitch my horse to the wagon of competitive racing in the RC segment at all right now. We are going to see a major brand fall in the future (TLR, Associated, XRAY, etc). Some brands just did not diversify as well as they should have and I don't think they will make it. The bashers are the large majority of the market.
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Mar 25, 2024 16:28
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