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Racing R/C cars is one of those things thats just instantly a blast. Glad you're enjoying the Slash!
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Feb 2, 2011 23:59
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poo poo, startin out on top!
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Feb 3, 2011 05:44
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Well, I spent a full 6 hours yesterday running practice at the new track at S+N Trackside in Milwaukee with my 4x4 Slash. I've got it dialed pretty good, and I was far from the slowest guy on the track, but I'm still driving it like I drove my Stampede, which is basically steering with the rear wheels. It looks cool to see a Slash drifting around the whole track, but its far from the fastest way around the track. I need to figure out how to get the front end to grip better, so it stops pushing, and I'm less inclined to steer via over-steer. I'm going to start by loosening up the front swaybar, and we'll see how that goes.
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Feb 6, 2011 19:10
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needknees posted:What tires are you running? I found the stock tires to suck rear end. Ended up going with some Jconcepts Subcultures, which isn't a great matchup for this very hardpacked indoor track but works way better than the stockers. Just about everyone there is running Barcodes. The stockers do suck rear end, I'm running Pro-Line Caliber M2's.
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Feb 7, 2011 05:38
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Airtroncs MX-3X. Guy I race with just got one and its a nice radio.
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Feb 7, 2011 23:36
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Ugh, so there is a "that guy" at my local track. The guy who drives some crazy exotic buggy that's so fragile it must be made of paper mache, and he yells at everyone on the track because he's the only one on earth who can drive even half decently. Of course he hates all the short course trucks running on the track, despite the fact that short course is whats keeping the lights on, not whatever he's running. He also brings the added advantage of his young son who comes along and drives his own ridiculous buggy. So that guy stands out on the track like he's marshaling when his son runs, except he doesn't marshal, he just barks commands at his son and yells at everyone else to stay away, and if you flip your car near him, he doesn't do poo poo about it. gently caress you, that guy, you'll be the one who drives everyone away and helps pound another nail into the coffin of mainstream RC popularity. Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Feb 13, 2011 |
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Feb 13, 2011 23:26
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The cheapest way is probably the Traxxas 2.4G Link controller. iirc it has 10 model memory.
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Feb 16, 2011 18:53
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TDD_Shizzy posted:Thanks, that looks like its a pretty good option. I'll keep an eye out on ebay, unless anyone here has the itch to upgrade from their Link system to something else? I just bought a used Link tx and rx for $20, so the deals are out there.
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Feb 17, 2011 00:11
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I've always had good (but slow) experiences with Hobby King out of China, the US warehouse is really fast, but that ship has sailed for you already. I'd keep at them, they will probably move on those numbers.
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Feb 24, 2011 15:58
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Whats everyones thoughts on keeping lipos at full charge? I've read that its not good for them to sit at full charge, and that it decreases their capacity, but I've also read that its not a big deal. Thoughts?
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Mar 4, 2011 21:17
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So I've really been enjoying my 4x4 Slash since I picked it up earlier this year. I've been at track practice almost every weekend since I got it, and my brother in law and I are now pretty consistently the fastest guys at practices, holding our own against SC10's and Blitzes. So naturally we're thinking about racing, but neither of us really know what its all about. How does racing at the local level usually work? I'm guessing its points based and not brackets or something else, correct? Also, I'm guessing that the guys who actually race are better than most of the guys who show up at practice, so I'm mentally preparing myself to get stomped on.
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Mar 16, 2011 20:56
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On a non-rc related front, GoPros are awesome. I just got one as well, and I've been shooting everything with it. From timelapses, to 60fps video attached to a ski while downhill skiing. Havent figured out how to attach it securely to my Slash yet though, I'd like to film a lap or two around my local track. I seriously stuffed my plane yesterday, but once I get that running again, I'm putting the gopro on it
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Mar 18, 2011 15:20
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Ran my first race (well, heat really) last weekend. It was fun, but the big problem was that the track was running heats and mains for 17 classes. Yes, 17. What started at 10AM didnt finish till 10PM or later. I wasnt hanging around to find out. In the one heat I ran in, I did OK, until I stripped a wheel hex, and spent the last two laps with basically no power. I got new wheels and tires (barcodes) this past week, and the barcodes are about 100x better than the proline badlands I was running. I'm tempted to sit through the whole process again just because I'm at least a couple seconds faster with the barcodes. It cant be normal to run that many classes on race day can it? How does anyone have the time to dedicate to it?
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Apr 4, 2011 16:11
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It was insane, 17 classes, at least 5 minutes per race, with another 5-10 minutes between races for people to shuffle in and out and get the marshals in place, doing all that 5x over for 3 heats and 2 mains. The worst part was just sitting around all day waiting to race, racing for 5 minutes, and then knowing you had another 4 hours before you'd get on the track again.
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Apr 4, 2011 16:34
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needknees posted:e - they need to be more efficient between races. The place I run at averages under 9 minutes total for a 5 minute race, marshal shuffling included. The three quals and double mains isn't helping either holy crap. 17 classes, 3 qualifiers, 2 mains. 85 races total, at say 10 minutes per race, shuffling included is 14 hours. Which is high, but a good ballpark time. They must have run less qualifiers and/or mains for some classes, but according to the people who have done it before, it goes from 10AM to 10PM or midnight depending on how quickly everyone moves.
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Apr 4, 2011 19:52
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VibrioCholera posted:Also I think I'm sold on the Slash in general. Would going with the 2WD to start be a decent option? Putting a 2S LiPo in it for life and not power? I'd like to keep the start up cost low but I know if I buy a truck that has 10-15 minutes of run time I'll bore of it in a day. If you have any interest in racing, the Slash is the answer. Most places will have classes for both the 2x4 and the 4x4. If you also want to bash with it, the 4x4 is the best bet. It wont go over quite as much as a monster truck, but it also wont spend as much time on its roof as a monster truck, and its still very capable, especially with some good tires. If you want to save money on batteries, get these. You'll have to solder Traxxas connectors onto them. I run them in my Slash and they're actually underrated, they'll take about 5200mah of charge. Also, charging on the cheap is tougher. If you have an external power supply (like a PC power supply), you can push 10 amps into your batteries with this. If you dont have one, I recommend something like this. You'll also want a lipo bag to charge the batteries in. Whatever you do though, get lipo batteries, the performance and life difference is night and day.
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Apr 12, 2011 15:29
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VibrioCholera posted:I already have ordered the other charger - can I just keep that and order the Gen Ace batteries? Any specific adapter I should need? You'll find that in the R/C world, "Ready to X" or "X ready" generally means that it will do X with some (but not much) work, or without spending money on extra stuff. Rarely does it really mean "This can do X right out of the box, no changes to anything". The thing about that big 13000 battery you ordered is that the big capacity does mean long run time, but it means long charge times as well. With those $20 Hobby king batteries I linked earlier, you could buy 10 of them for the same price as that battery, and get 50000mah of battery instead of 13000. A larger amount of batteries is almost always better than one big one. The only place this doesnt really apply is in the RC flight world where running out of battery at the wrong time can be catastrophic.
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Apr 13, 2011 02:02
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As long as the manual tells me what to do I should be pretty good to go!
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VibrioCholera posted:Me again. Traxxas does make a sway bar kit for the car, and it really transforms the handling. Its very adjustable and will get you to pretty much any type of body roll amount you want. I know you already bought a metal A-arm replacement, but I have to suggest not buying another one. I'd go with the RPM A-arms. The problem with aluminum A-arms is that they wont break, which sounds good at first until you realize that if you apply enough force to the A-arm, something will break, and the next thing in line is the much more expensive (and hard to replace) bulkhead and chassis mounts. The RPM a-arms strike the perfect balance between being stronger than stock, but not so strong that they'll rip your car in half when you hit something. Breaking stuff is part of running RC cars, and chances are if you've made a certain part unbreakable, you've just made a different part much more breakable.
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Apr 18, 2011 17:08
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Agreed on avidrc. They sell full kits for the Slash that are very affordable, and are better than the OEM ones.
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Apr 18, 2011 21:57
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skippo posted:Thanks for the info. For the pede, I would go with the traxxas 2.4G link radio and RX, they can be had cheap on ebay. For the motor, get the XL3s velineon motor and ESC, also get some 5000mah 2s lipos, the pede becomes a completely different truck. You'll wonder why you didnt do it earlier. Stock up on breakables, it will be much faster and hit things much harder, but starting a wheelie at 20mph is amazing.
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May 18, 2011 21:31
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Supradog posted:Why not go for 3s lipos since both that engine and esc supports it? You can, but the stock battery hold down wont work with it, and the trucks high cog makes for constant tipovers. Its noticeably faster than the 2s, which is worlds faster than a non-lipo, so I guess it all depends on what you want out of it. That being said, the truck handles and acts the best with 2s
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Jun 3, 2011 13:52
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I would use actual electrical contact cleaner rather than brake cleaner. Brake cleaner will eat certain plastics and other petrolium based things. As for the grease, the traxxas thrust bearing grease works better than wheel bearing grease, but both will work
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Jun 17, 2011 15:54
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This thread shouldnt be on the second page!! Since this is the everything R/C thread, I just finished a GWS Slow Stick build with the express purpose of carrying my GoPro camera. Maidened it today, still have some CoG issues to work out, but its more than flyable as is. A shot from the maiden: 
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Jun 27, 2011 00:37
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Im not doing first person video with it, sadly. Just flying from the ground and watching when I get home. I may invest in an fpv system down the road
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Jun 27, 2011 01:53
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They are an excellent platform for learning, and were the defacto learner recommendation for about the last decade. They are also one of the defacto standards for aerial photography. Once you have the radio equipment, and a power system, you can buy a NPS (No Power System) Slow Stick for $25, which obviously leads many people to customize them. They're also bigger than they look in pictures. People have sent SLR cameras up with modified Slow Sticks, they're kind of known for their weight carrying capabilities. The newer slow sticks also come with a fiberglass fuselage, and carbon fiber wing spars, so they're lighter and stronger. Mine is pretty well modified, with a modified thrust angle, brushless motor, new front and rear landing gear, reinforced rudder and elevator, etc. I mounted the GoPro by making my own front landing gear out of aluminum strips and some bolts and locknuts. All said and done about $10 worth of hardware.  Also, finally finished rendering and uploading the video I shot last night. Great flying weather, dead calm, and she flew pretty well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pans1ssB-0I Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 14:55 on Jun 27, 2011 |
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Jun 27, 2011 14:41
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The wing is a self contained unit made of foam and reinforced with aluminum and carbon fiber. It's secured to the fuselage with some crazy latex-ish rubber bands. Sounds weird, but it holds tight, and is a pretty common design. I recommend the 2410-09y motor and electronic speed controller from headsuprc.com if you don't have one already. Their prop saver is nice as well, and you'll need it.
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Jun 28, 2011 03:25
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Does that mean I'd be able to take it off, stuff whole lot in a backpack so I can ride to where I'll fly it and then put it back on easily? All the good spots in my area for flying would be way easier to get to on the Gixxer. Sadly no, the wings are at least 4/5ths as long as a gsxr, and once you build them, they dont fold. The fuse is also a couple feet long. Unless your bike is luggaged up to ride around the world, it probably needs to be transported in a car. Wojcigitty posted:So we can post our RC airplanes now? Wow, kudos to you, it takes balls to fly something like that. I get worried flying a 1.5lb plane with a brushless motor on it, I cant picture taking something like that up. Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 14:40 on Jun 28, 2011 |
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Jun 28, 2011 14:38
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Ah well, it'll have to be my flatmate's wagon then. That will probably work the best. If you cant order from HeadsUpRC, there is always hobbyking. If you havent already, check this out: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=407136
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Jun 28, 2011 16:32
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Aaaaaand I found out why no one likes the fiberglass Slow Stick fuselage. Mine cracked on takeoff from the stress of solid aluminum landing gear and a GoPro. At least the GoPro was on though: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nw3Sqf3Fa_U Thankfully I had an aluminum fuselage hanging around, and stuck a dowel down it for rigidity.
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Jun 29, 2011 15:35
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Page 3? For shame! Cooked the motor on my Slow Stick yesterday. Thankfully the controls remained functional and I got it down. At 15 seconds, you can hear the motor go. I couldnt hear that on the ground, but did see a puff of smoke. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nUJcoQ7LHUI
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Jul 5, 2011 17:55
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I dont fly 3d, so I dont know much about them, but from what I hear with the HK planes, they are not plug-n-play, they will take some fiddling to get them to fly right.
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Jul 19, 2011 20:24
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skippo posted:Holy poo poo! Just finished upgrading my stampede. Put big bore shocks in, the traxxas tq receiver and transmitter, and a vxl system. This truck is now insane (and I thought it was good before!) Yeah, the VXL makes it basically a new truck, completely awesome upgrade. You could put tape on the body to keep it from splitting so easily.
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Jul 23, 2011 19:05
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My Slow Stick has kind of transformed into a Quick Stick over the last month or so. I swapped in a Parkzone Park 480 brushless from my crashed T-28, and it moves out pretty well now. It was just getting to be dusk and was overcast last night, so the video quality isnt the greatest, but it was perfect flying weather. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zW0AFWN32k
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Jul 29, 2011 15:42
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What will you be doing with it? Mainly backyard/skatepark bashing, or do you plan to go racing?
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Aug 15, 2011 22:05
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The new 4x4 Stampede is quite the truck as well. Its based off the 4x4 Slash, which is a proven platform, and does great as a Short Course truck
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Aug 15, 2011 22:35
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I had a 2wd Stampede, but the concepts are mostly the same. The best thing you can do to keep it from flipping is lower the stance some. Any RC car worth its salt has adjustable suspension, and will allow you to change the ride height at will. The 2WD stampede had these clips that let you adjust ride height, and it did make a difference. The stock tires that come on the Stampede will slide a little on pavement, making them less likely to traction roll. If you upgrade the tires to something like Mashers, then they'll just grip everywhere. I drive a 4x4 slash now, and while it handles much better on the pavement and track, it gets bogged down in grass, and obviously doesnt have the ride height for monster truck style bashing.
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Aug 16, 2011 14:52
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The Anderson Power poles are the defacto UPS standard as well, they do work nicely. For R/C, I'm really partial to the Traxxas connectors, which are along the same lines as the Anderson power poles. Everything R/C I own has Traxxas connectors on it.
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Aug 22, 2011 16:39
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I nearly lost a plane (failed ground check, thankfully) to whatever stupid connectors come on Parkzone stuff, I cant stand those. The solder just let go, and that was it. I dont have anything against deans, just never used them. I trust soldering wires to tabs ala deans and traxxas way more than I trust jamming wires into a holed out connector like the Parkzone ones. EDIT: They're EC3's. Terrible connectors Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 18:41 on Aug 23, 2011 |
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Aug 23, 2011 18:39
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 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vuNt0PUahTY
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Aug 29, 2011 02:59
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| # ¿ May 14, 2024 22:26 |
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krushgroove posted:I've got a couple of friends that are interested in making an RC-specific app - what sort of thing would you guys like to see? There are gear ratio apps and manufacturer apps that are just a collection of videos and manuals, but is there anything that isn't done already that would be cool to see? I'd like to see an app with a layout of a chassis (maybe have a few chassisesis that you can swap between) , and you can click on all the parts and see the current settings you're running. So, top-down view of a short course truck, for instance. You can click on the right-rear wheel and up pops a window or speech bubble with toe, camber, tire, number of runs on the tire, etc. Click on a shock, see its preload, spring setup, oil weight, etc. It would also be nice to have a historical view, what did I run a month ago for all these parts? Let me take notes as well, so when I look back a month, not only can I see what I ran for settings, but I can take notes on how the car felt, what place I took, etc. And let me get nitty gritty with it. Include A-arm settings, roll center settings, steering knuckle hole settings, let me note what brand of part i'm running, when it was installed, when/why the old part failed, etc. THAT is the ultimate R/C app that I'd like to see.
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Aug 30, 2011 15:49
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