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Just posting a shoutout for kuffs, got the 3PM today and it looks even better than the photos he sent over. Haven't had a chance to charge up some batteries for it yet but it looks great, thanks again! The antenna on these new receivers is so drat short
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# ¿ Mar 16, 2010 06:15 |
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# ¿ May 11, 2024 17:45 |
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Somewhat Heroic posted:k-groove, so I spent some time today with someone you know quite well. Jason D from Team Durange/DRC. He is pretty cool. He made a stop by here for the day before heading down to the Cactus Classic in Arizona for the weekend. Heh, that's actually at the track I'll be racing at primarily...has been for ages, at their old location too, which my old man raced at. I'm just glad we FINALLY have two dry weekends in a row. We've had three or four wet weekends back to back, which is just insane.
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# ¿ Mar 17, 2010 01:35 |
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Spent some time today doing some more rewiring for my chargers, and converted the three Turnigy packs I got from bullets to Deans. Holy gently caress those 8ga wires are a pain in the rear end to solder, but I think they're all good. At this point, all I really need to go racing again is a transponder, my R/C tools, a servo (I should still have one in a TC3, or in the toolbox), and ideally the new SC10 in kit form. Getting really tempted to just go ahead and put together everything in the gold-tub RC10, or one of the XX buggies, though.
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# ¿ Mar 28, 2010 01:57 |
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Went to Harbor Freight today and bought a $25 case: Fits the 3PM transmitter, two Dynam DC6 chargers, my converted 380W ATX power supply, and all of the cables needed for all of them. Plus, with some of the (huge) amount of extra foam removed, I can keep the lipo pack in the 3PM from rattling around. There's a chunk of eggcrate foam that goes in the lid to cushion everything. Beats the hell out of the old days where I kept most of my stuff in its original packaging - meant I was hauling all manner of boxes every time.
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# ¿ Mar 29, 2010 03:30 |
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It's really easy to do, too - the foam is prescored in squares about 1cm x 1cm, so you just take the piece of gear you want to put in it, press down, and start ripping the ones that bent the most. I also picked up a $3 sheet of toolbox liner that will probably make a good workmat - stuff sticks to it instead of bouncing, which will probably be nice for e-clips. I'm not putting any tools in it, though I suspect you could; I do still have a nice Plano box that should still have everything I need in that regard. I'm loving the idea of being able to get to the track with two, maybe three small boxes, a table, and a lawn chair, as opposed to the huge cardboard box (full of smaller cardboard boxes) I used to throw in the bed of my truck. I might pick up a second one of these, though, or maybe a smaller version, just to keep my batteries in; the lipo sack takes care of fire hazard but I'd still like a solid case to move them in.
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# ¿ Mar 29, 2010 03:41 |
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I just ran out and checked by laying my old 2PBKA on top of the chargers and power supply, and yeah, I'd say you could get two transmitters in there pretty easily, as long as you don't put one too far to the center. I've got a 2PEKA in storage at my dad's that I can check with later, since it's sized more along what an actual modern radio is like, but I don't see any issues.
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# ¿ Mar 29, 2010 04:06 |
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Dug up the RC stuff from my dad's place tonight - my old Plano toolbox, two TC3s, my 2PEKA, and some other tools / parts. I was slightly shocked to feel the tires on the TC3s were not just "not rock hard" - they were actually still sticky to the touch. They've spent at least eight years in a garage.
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# ¿ Mar 30, 2010 04:24 |
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kuffs posted:Welp, AE finally releases a FT SC10 http://www.redrc.net/2010/04/associated-sc10-factory-team-kit/ Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck this is exactly what I need Buyin' this and going racing, motherfuckers. Edit: gently caress, not out until June. Goddamnit. Offical PR is at http://aedownloads.com/press/in_040210_sc10ft.pdf IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Apr 5, 2010 |
# ¿ Apr 5, 2010 17:51 |
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For the record - Factory Team SC10 kit (AE #7034) is available for preorder at a lot of shops now, at a street price of $250.
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# ¿ Apr 8, 2010 18:32 |
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SGT. Squeaks posted:It was a fun day, and Miller has an awesome facility. Can't wait for future races there. Is that Miller as in the same place that hosted an ALMS race? I wish there was a proper onroad track somewhere in Phoenix still, especially that raced on Saturdays.
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# ¿ Apr 19, 2010 23:38 |
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kuffs posted:protip: A large selection of rcmart's stuff is on ebay. Where they won't charge you 3% to use paypal, shipping is cheaper, and you'll have a better complaint channel if things go sour. Also, if it's on eBay and is Buy It Now, use Bing Cashback to get 8% back.
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# ¿ Apr 21, 2010 21:39 |
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There shouldn't be anything 'in' the servo, but if the servo itself isn't centered when you connect the linkage, it could run out of travel before your steering does. Unhook the steering from the servo and make sure it has full, free travel in both directions. Then center the servo with your radio and keep it as centered as possible.
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# ¿ May 26, 2010 06:26 |
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Phat_Albert posted:I'd say the Slash is definitely marketed towards short course racing, its all over the traxxas website. Yeah, but the 4x4 probably less so; there's not much competition in the 4WD SC class, is there? In other news, I should have a Factory Team SC10 kit on my doorstep tomorrow :iamafag:
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# ¿ Jul 19, 2010 22:52 |
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Horrible cameraphone photo ahoy: Got most of the way done with the transmission...then discovered that my kit is missing its loctite and the only stuff I have around in the garage is red loctite, which means I'll never get it apart again. Time to hit up a shop tomorrow for some blue stuff!
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# ¿ Jul 26, 2010 06:45 |
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Doubleposting because there's no such thing as too much R/C goodness. Too bad the latest any hobbyshop stays open around here on a weekday night is 7PM, so no Loctite or tire glue for me AE's V2 shocks are soooo much easier to build than the TC3 shocks or the old rear end shocks on the gold-tub RC10. Hell, even the Losi shocks. Their overall manufacturing quality has gone down a bit, though; I've had to file and grind on more parts on this one kit than both of the TC3s I put together combined.
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# ¿ Jul 27, 2010 08:05 |
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Am I just talking to myself in here? Got the truck together finally and puttered it around the kitchen floor - whole setup now is a Factory Team SC10, Novak Havoc 2S ESC and SS 13.5 brushless, the 3PM and 603FF I bought off of Kuffs (works great!), an old Hitec 605MG servo from ~10 years ago, and an AMB personal transponder I picked up the other day on eBay. Oh, and a few Turnigy 5200 hardcase lipos. After I got it all squared away I spent the rest of the night finally cleaning it all off of the kitchen table and reorganizing my toolbox - no need to carry TC3 / RC12 specific stuff in it when I'm running the SC10. So now I just need to get the body painted, trimmed, and assembled, and spend some time doing fine adjustments on the ride height, camber, toe, diff, and slipper. Might head to the track sometime next week for that.
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# ¿ Jul 30, 2010 06:43 |
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krushgroove posted:I think everyone but me is out actually racing/driving their toy cars. Makes sense. Sloppy: Sure, it's called "give a bunch of hacks 10-turn motors" I came across one of the few destroyed parts I ever had on a TC3 - a demolished suspension arm from the short time I decided I wanted to give mod racing a try.
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# ¿ Jul 30, 2010 17:17 |
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AFAIK your biggest problem with a 10T is going to be the transmission, unless you already have a Stealth gearbox. Aside from that, there's absolutely no reason you couldn't swap out all of the gear for modern electronics. You could start with new batteries (go Lipo, seriously, the chargers are dirt cheap and are still better than anything you ever had back in the day with the 10T) and go from there.
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# ¿ Nov 23, 2010 02:49 |
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kuffs posted:That's not a 10T, that's a 10T3. T's were aluminum chassis for the first two revs. I didn't even look at the pic closely Weren't there a lot of composite chassis kits out for the RC10/10T, though? At any rate if it really is a 10T3 then disregard what I said, I think those all have the Stealth gearbox.
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# ¿ Nov 28, 2010 18:06 |
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TremorX posted:I *could* put both my Losi 12T Motor and ESC in it and still meet spec, but I'm wondering if you can use a 12T ESC with a 15T motor? I'm guessing it SHOULD work, since Losi's new XXX-SCT uses the same old 12T ESC as the strike with a 14T motor, but I'm not sure. What's the general rule-of-thumb regarding ESCs and motors? ESCs have lower bounds for turn counts, but not upper - at least in terms of the same motor size. With standard 540 motors, a 12T motor will be harder on the ESC than a 15T motor. I don't know how the 15T being a 550 will affect it, since I've never run one. quote:Second - If you change your radio receiver & transmitter (I'm getting a Spektrum DX3S and plan to slap the receiver that comes with it in the Blitz), do you have to change your servo to match, or will any servo work with any radio? Do you have to set your endpoints or something? Worst case scenario, in the old days, you'd have to re-pin the connector for the right pin order, but I think modern stuff has mostly standardized on Futaba's pinout. Setting endpoints is a good idea no matter what brand servo you use, you don't want to either over-drive the servo's internal limits or the limits of the vehicle it's in. With my Futaba 2.4 setup you do at least need to pay attention to whether the servo is digital or not - try and use digital mode on an old analog servo and it looks and acts like it's having a seizure
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# ¿ Nov 29, 2010 07:09 |
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Nerobro posted:Yeah, put a load on the 5v rail of the psu. 1-2 amps is a good start. That'll stabilize the 12v output. Might not even need to do that. Most of the chargers will work fine down to 10V. The PSU I modified with zero load on 5V still puts out about 11.7V. As far as Christmas stuff, a new steering servo for the SC10; I haven't raced it yet but I don't like my odds of using a low-end ~15-year-old Futaba.
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# ¿ Dec 15, 2010 22:17 |
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helno posted:Have you ever tried to start one of those little fuckers in the cold? I just had a flashback to about 15-20 years ago, flying control line airplanes with my dad. I'm pretty sure they're still up on the wall in his garage, and I'm sure they're as hard to start as ever.
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# ¿ Dec 23, 2010 18:15 |
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Nerobro posted:Well.. it "was" runtime and horsepower. Now.. I don't see much appeal at all. Real men could run 8 minutes on 1400s. 1/12 supremacy. I still haven't run my SC10 in, but I do have a shiny new DS1313 to go into it.
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# ¿ Jan 28, 2011 21:41 |
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nummy posted:Sorry if I sounded like a jackass. Yeah, and if you mess up with any of these cheap Chinese chargers, they get racist: That 200W charger wasn't out when I ordered mine, looks like it's the exact same control setup as every other cheap Chinese charger, just with higher amperage.
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# ¿ Apr 13, 2011 06:44 |
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VibrioCholera posted:Oh yeah! I totally knew that. I have another charger that is everything/LiPo/LiFe safe coming in today. I was just dumbfounded that charging the stock 3000mAh battery took that drat long. Thing is worthless. NiMH / NiCd cells can't be charged at the same rate as a Lipo. With NiMH / NiCd the limiting factor in charge rate is cooking the hell out of the cell, whereas with most Lipos big enough for a car the limiting factor is the wattage of the charger.
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# ¿ Apr 15, 2011 00:19 |
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Yeah, you should keep your lipos at about a half charge for storage - fully charged or discharged is bad for their longevity.
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# ¿ Apr 15, 2011 05:06 |
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Unless that thing can't run a standard 540-style motor, or you're already running some six-turn monster, there's always faster motors available. That said, based on a quick look around, high end brushed motors just don't exist anymore new, and your speed control would probably still have a limitation on how many turns it can go on brushed. Also, high end brushed motors are a maintenance nightmare. If you want more speed, go brushless and/or lipo.
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# ¿ May 6, 2011 21:12 |
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I've probably got some early '80s REEDY MODIFIEDS stickers in my collection somewhere. That sucks.
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# ¿ May 17, 2011 22:27 |
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Burn the Priest posted:I had that exact truck in 2004. At that time 1/10 scale nitro was still really popular because the monster trucks/truggies were purely experimental, so if you wanted to race nitro trucks then you either got that or the Associated GT. Having had both of those trucks I always preferred the Losi over the Associated. The Losi had really crisp handling whereas the Associated would always push no matter what I changed. Not surprised on that comparison. The Associated was still heavily derived from the original gold tub RC10.
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# ¿ Jul 25, 2011 06:33 |
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I've got a shitload of Deans connectors, some pushing 15-20 years old, and while they work well for anything at ~8V or less...on the 3S lipos I run an inverter off of, they're a bit underspec and they get a lot warmer than I like. I've got some of the Hobbyking XT60s or whatever they're called to try out, and if I like them I might switch my R/C stuff to them as well.
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# ¿ Aug 24, 2011 06:38 |
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krushgroove posted:Sounds good! Everyone likes a project, post pics! I'm not, but it's mostly because I still have my dad's original gold-tub RC10. I should get that (... and my FT SC10!) running.
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# ¿ Jul 31, 2013 00:19 |
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kuffs posted:That Golf is rad as hell Yep, reminds me of the '80s / early '90s Toyota livery. Does anyone make an old-school Toyota truck body that would fit a short course truck?
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# ¿ Jan 20, 2014 21:16 |
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I've got an ancient NiMH charger if you want it - it's this thing, but branded by a different company whose name I cannot remember: I can dig it out tonight and fire it up to see if it works... not sure if I have any NiMH / NiCds to test it with anymore, though
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# ¿ Jan 23, 2015 21:13 |
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T1g4h posted:Oh hell yeah, that'd be awesome! Let me know if it works and if so, lemme know how much you want for it and your PayPal info Cost of shipping plus paypal fees will be fine, I'm sure I paid fuckall for it I'm 99% sure I know exactly where it's at and it hasn't done anything but consume space in my garage that could be used for GMC and Jeep parts instead. slidebite posted:That's an awesome offer. I understand the included chargers with RTRs completely blow so sweet move. If the charger can actually charge 3S at 5A... theoretically, one hour. However, a lot of the cheap chargers (like my DC6s mentioned above) are capped at a specific wattage, so even if it lets you set 5A on a 3S or 4S battery, the actual maximum charge rate will be less. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 21:35 on Jan 23, 2015 |
# ¿ Jan 23, 2015 21:31 |
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T1g4h posted:Oh hell yeah, that'd be awesome! Let me know if it works and if so, lemme know how much you want for it and your PayPal info Found the product page for mine: http://www.apexhk.com/products/alpha.html Photos: It does power up and beep (both on 110VAC and 12VDC) but I have no way of cobbling together any sort of NiCd / NiMH pack that it will be able to charge, so beyond that powerup test I can't be sure it still works. You'll have to make a pigtail for it to plug into the battery since it just has spring terminals for the output. It's got some weird hot glue sort of stuff seeping out of the bottom and a nice ding in the case. Looks like a medium flat rate box will cost me $11.30 to ship, so $11.95 to ayocee@gmail.com to cover shipping and paypal? slidebite posted:Is it normal for a brand new lipo battery to be charged enough out of the box that a charger will say it's full? I've seen that now and again; just cycle it at least once.
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# ¿ Jan 24, 2015 05:02 |
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T1g4h posted:Just want to say, IOC, your choice of packaging / box decoration was pretty amusing and probably made my mailman raise an eyebrow Ahaha, yeah, that box was meant for something else until I realized that it was a flat rate, and weighed less than a pound fully loaded. You can thank my wife and daughter for the decorations. I'm just glad it's useful to someone!
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# ¿ Jan 28, 2015 23:18 |
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That connector isn't for charging the battery, by the way! It's for the option to power that charger off of a 12V battery with the alligator clips included. If you bought a Tamiya-Deans adapter, and have no need for it aside from this, lop the Tamiya end off and strip the ends of what is now a Deans pigtail and put them in the spring terminals on the front
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# ¿ Feb 2, 2015 22:23 |
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So I think I'm dragging my TC3 out of storage. Turns out there's a fairly active Vintage Trans Am class finally.
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# ¿ Apr 2, 2015 17:27 |
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Yeah, I'll have to get done video somehow. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 05:50 on Apr 5, 2015 |
# ¿ Apr 5, 2015 05:01 |
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# ¿ May 11, 2024 17:45 |
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You Am I posted:VTA at my track runs 21.5T and we're looking at doing a VTA-fest where people can run 13.5T and Open motors Early second-gen Camaro (I think the guy making them calls them a '70). Mine is the white with red, my dad's is red with white.
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# ¿ Apr 8, 2015 17:13 |