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Like many people here, this thread brought back the fun I used to have playing with R/C as a kid and now I've dove back into the hobby. After doing some research I decided to buy a Mini R/C (1:18 scale) XMODS brand car from Radioshack for only $40. These cars are actually built by HPI and are licensed for sale through Radioshack along with their own line of mostly useless mods. While Radioshack has tried unsuccessfully before to bring mainstream Japanese R/C products to America (BitCharG/MicroSizers a few years back), XMODS have a full line of hop up parts you can buy from R/C sites all over the world. After doing everything I could do with the Radioshack brand upgrades I ended up ordering over $200 bucks in parts to replace every possible component on this car with an aftermarket upgrade. I want to eventually get another stock XMOD and a MINI-Z (considered by many to be the best 1:28 brand out there) to see how my car performs against them when I've finished the work. I figured this was a good, relatively cheap, way to get back into the hobby that has the potential for further investment. Here is the kit I got from a store that sells a ton of mods for these scale cars. http://www.atomicmods.com/Products/XMOD-Evo-Starter-Kit---2008-Nissan-GT-R__14610.aspx If I continue to pursue this hobby beyond the summer I wan to eventually get a 1:10 Nitro Touring car. I'd really like to get something I could put together myself rather than a RTR or maybe even just get a chassis and buy everything piecemeal. My question is; which car in this class has the most aftermarket upgrades available from major hop up manufacturers and distributors? And does anyone know of a good place to but assembled kits or stripped chassis for builds? Right now I'm torn between HPI and Associated but have also been checking the cars out from Tamiya. Price isn't really an object as long as I'm not spending much more than $500 for a chassis/kit sans radio and ECU. James Woods fucked around with this message at 08:21 on May 25, 2009 |
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May 24, 2009 02:38
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Ziploc posted:All that and no pics? I'll be doing a post with pics when the parts start arriving from Hong Kong next week.
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May 24, 2009 04:44
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krushgroove posted:God dammit that's tempting but I just got a SC-10 thanks to this thread. I also got a Cup Racer a couple months ago because of it. I'd be curious to see how much this thread has cost everyone in dollars put together. compressioncut posted:If you get one order MIP CVDs along with it (about $20) to nip the problem in the bud. I assume you ordered the ones for the B4? Laserface posted:So whats considered to be the best short course truck on the market at the moment? I guess I'd need RTR since I sold all my gear not long ago, but will definitely be swapping all the parts out so Im really after a good platform that has out of the box advantages, but plenty of room to upgrade into a racer/all out brushless monster. To chime in my two cents about SCTs, I opted for the SC-10 because I already had a Spektrum DX3S I bought for the Cup Racer and it came with an extra telemetry receiver plus I always planned to go with a high end brushless motor (I got a Castle Creations Mamba 4600) and already had a bunch of LiPo batteries (10x Team Orion 2400mah). I also wanted to buy a kit I had to put together myself so if anything ever broke I'd know the proper way to fix it. While it's true that the Slash has more Hop Up support now, the fact that Losi, AE, and HPI are making trucks for this class means that all of them will have roughly equal parts availability before long. My one complaint about the SC-10 is that they didn't put a cover on the electronics pan. Traxxas is the only one of the now four major R/C companies making these things that got this right. Unlike the buggies they're based on, the SCTs throw dirt and mud and grass and children's tears, whatever you're driving over, under the body and right on top of all that fancy silicon you just crammed in the fucker. If you don't already have any gear and aren't sure whether or not you want to go full bore bonkers with this hobby go with the Slash RTR. All I can tell you about the SC-10 is that this cocksucker is motherfucking indestructible. You could drive this sonuvabitch through the center of a quantum singularity and it would pop out the other side unscathed and land on it's wheels. Speaking of my SC-10, yesterday was my day off and I did some light bashing. I live in San Francisco and wanted to just destroy Golden Gate Park so I grabbed another Goon I work with and we got up early and set out for the beach on the west side of the park. Our first stop was Cliffside which is, as you may have guessed, a huge fuckoff cliff. So being the manchildren that we are we jumped the mother down a 100' cliff at about a 10 degree angle and the little bastard ran down it twice on all fours the whole way. Next we wanted to mix it up and jumped it some more in the dunes with equal success as the truck handled the dry beach sand like a buggy and tore through it no problem leaving five foot high rooster tails behind it. The big fun was just ahead when we took it to the shore and blasted through batteries chasing seagulls on the hard wet sand just feet from the tide. You could go full bore the whole way and it was impossible to flip. You just kept powersliding in the surf for huge drifts. This was a hoot but we had a long day ahead of us. We were planning on running the car down the back woods, unpaved trails for the entire 3.3 mile length of the park. Keep in mind that's 3.3 miles as the crow flies, in reality there were hundreds of miles of trails both marked and unmarked between point A and point B and we had until sundown to hit as much of it as possible. In the park the truck was a dream. It's a blast just taking it down the paved trails and hitting up the dozens of huge empty parking lots along the way but that's not why I bought this bitch. We always took the roughest possible route that still went easterly even if this meant the truck had to do double duty as as crawler. Now let me tell you, I've never owned a R/C car that was classified as a crawler but unless those things have little Animatronic redneck drivers who get out and use a tiny winch and Popsicle sticks to dig the thing out, I'll stick with this beast cuz it does the job just fine. At times it was like a choose your own adventure novel only you wanted to make all the wrong choices, you wanted that creepy dark overgrown path or that rocky trail that lead to utter destruction. Most of the fun was just taking the hike itself and having the truck chase along behind us like a puppy bouncing with energy. In a way it felt like rallying. Covering long distances through multiple types of terrain in a race against the clock. And I'll be damned if it didn't look like a rally truck with it's rear end drifting through the tight dirt corners of the trail. We ended up at Hippy Hill at the mouth of Haight Ashburry, the end of our journey, just as an apocalyptic looking fog approached the city so we split a joint among those godless animals and watched roll in. And for one day I was ten years old. Bashing through the woods and getting dirty with a good friend and an awesome toy. A toy the likes of which would have melted my ten year old, Pac Man generation brains right out of my ears and onto my Hypercolor shirt. I only get one day off a week and I have a family and adult type responsibilities. That day I didn't do any chores around the house, didn't return any e-mails or voicemails, didn't go shopping, didn't even see my wife, and have already invested well over a thousand dollars in this hobby. And all I can think is that my next day off is six days away and that I have seven new batteries being express shipped to my door. This is the first summer I've had in twenty years. James Woods fucked around with this message at 10:41 on Jul 29, 2009 |
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Jul 29, 2009 10:38
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Somewhat Heroic posted:So I am guessing that you go to Mike/Ricky @ Hobbytown in Concord? Or do you make the trip up to see Jake @ Jakes Performance Hobbies? There are even a few hobby manufacturers that are in the Bay Area (or nearby). Team FastEddy, Darksoul Racing. Never been to any of those. I live downtown so while I normally do most of my shopping online, I always stop by Franciscan Hobbies in the Western Addition and that one place in Japantown before I buy online. I really like to support small brick and mortar businesses, especially for a hobby as esoteric as this in a city like SF. I even but all my paint and general modeling supplies from a model railroad store down the street from me for this reason. Somewhat Heroic posted:QUESTION FOR THE RC GOONS - WHICH HOBBY STORES DO YOU PATRONIZE? I buy most of my stuff from Tower Hobbies. While they don't always have the best price, they're usually in the top three for online sellers and their shipping and customer service is the best I've experienced with an online retailer. They also offer a interest free deferred payment program on some high price items. compressioncut posted:No, T4. B4 axles will be too short. Then you can remove the limiters in the shocks to get more droop without worrying about dogbones dropping out. That said, the box-stock setup is just fine. I looked for ones for the T4 on their website and didn't see them. Got a good link for where you bought yours? compressioncut posted:I'd also recommend getting some B44 rear hubs and bearings if you're going to be putting much power to it. I got the STRC 1* aluminum hubs, which are sweet and add a little rear toe, but they still use the stock (small) bearings. The STRC hubs were on my next list of things to buy along with a couple other of their parts. I'm also planning on getting some ProLine beadlock wheels and tires. Would you recommend them with my setup? I've heard some guys say that beadlocks are a bad idea with high torque brushless motors like mine but I always figured this was bullshit. compressioncut posted:To get it to jump better, hack (or carefully cut, whatever) out the triangle of lexan in the body between the roll cage bars behind the cab to vent the air. If you use LiPos, clearance the battery hold down to get the battery right up against the rear bulkhead, then use 3 ounces of stick-on weights up front (1.5 on the servo, 1.5 on the skidplate). Mine jumps beautifully, with no parachuting, with that setup. I'm definitely trying this on Monday when I go back to the park. Do you have a setup sheet I could see? It sounds like I'm talking to the right guy.
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Jul 30, 2009 07:35
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Laserface posted:I can understand that tourer racing is pretty much F1 and all the cars need to be as close to identical as possible to show who the 'best driver' is, but really all I want to see is like JGTC races and stuff, true small-scale racing kinda thing. There's always RCGT . You can use any 1/10 chassis you want and the only rules are that you have a limit of a 17.5T motor, you have to use a "scale" or realistic body from a real touring car, and you have to use realistic wheels with radial tires. The idea is to bring scale realism back into touring car racing while also allowing enough freedom for you to engineer your car for performance. I'm planning on competing in this class next year with the Novak Ballistic since it's the first really tunable brushless motor system but haven't decided on a chassis yet. I like both the XRAY T2 and the MI4 but I usually only buy RC Cars that are sold as kits so I was leaning towards the TC5 but now that Robotronic kit is looking really nice even though getting parts will be a bitch.
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Aug 19, 2009 21:23
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Is anyone here into Scale Stage RC Rally cars? If you don't know what this is, SSRCR uses either dedicated rally cars (of which there are few) or converted touring cars that have had their suspensions raised and strengthened for off road use. Here's some info with links to a ton of cool pictures and videos. http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/324325-scale-stage-r-c-rally.html http://www.monkeyracing.cz/ http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=cs&sl=cs&tl=en&u=http://www.rallybrno.cz/&prev=hp&rurl=translate.google.com http://www.rcrallysport.com/foto/RC%20FINLAND%20RALLY%202009/RC%20RALLY%20FINLAND%202009/album/index.html http://www.carlife.net/bbs/board.php?bo_table=motorsports&wr_id=1869 I converted my HPI Cup Racer for rally a while back and it only set me back about $30 in parts. It's had several alterations done to improve ride height and sealing but other than a set of touring car wheels mated with some Tamiya Rally Block tires, threaded shocks, and a home made LED kit, it's completely stock. It's using a Novak GTB 17.5 with Havoc 3s ESC, Team Orion Lipos, and a Spektr8um Dx3s. This thing handles great on grass, mud, dirt, even the beach and with on road tires it's a drifting monster.  Click here for the full 1014x760 image.  Click here for the full 1014x760 image.  Click here for the full 1014x760 image.  Click here for the full 1014x760 image. Tomorrow I'm picking myself up one of these as a b-day present to myself.   It's a purpose built rally car that is essentially a Dark Impact buggy with shorter a arms and shocks. edit: Also, anyone in the Bay Area wanna bash?
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Dec 10, 2009 22:58
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IOwnCalculus posted:I've always loved the idea of RC rally, but isn't the biggest problem a lack of viable tracks? You don't want to run them on the same crazy-rear end jumps that you'd run a truck / buggy on, and nobody with an onroad track wants to get dirt on it at any point. The best part about these cars is that they'll handle both on road and off road (jumps included) tracks just fine. The problem is finding a single track that has both. Part of what interested me in these cars in the first place was that the Cup Racer was utterly useless on anything but a near perfectly flat surface like a basketball court and even then an errant pebble would send the car flying at high speed. Now, when just bashing with friends, I take my rally car all the same places I take my SC-10. If I get enough people locally I may try and set up a track on some steep hiking trails that chicane up a hill so running is at a minimum. I may also see if I can get one of my local tracks to do a rally race where we do a time attack of five laps each on both the on and off road tracks using the same setup on your car.
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Dec 10, 2009 23:53
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kuffs posted:Oh my loving god that track is awesome Here's some video taken there. http://cafe.daum.net/realcircuit/YGZn/120 I'm really partial to this one for all the scale attention (i.e. churches, bridges, guardrails, etc) that was put into it. http://vimeo.com/1793487
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Dec 11, 2009 01:51
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frunksock posted:Is this the thread to talk about helicopters, too? My girlfriend gave me a beginner helicopter for Christmas (Heli-max CX Micro) and I don't really know anything about this hobby yet. Your best bet for a good hobby store in the city is Franciscan Hobbies down on Ocean Blvd. They have a huge selection of micro heli parts and the staff is really knowledgeable and can answer all your questions. Also, if you ever get the bug to go bashing with some RC cars send me a P.M..
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Jan 3, 2010 06:43
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double post
James Woods fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Jan 9, 2010 |
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Jan 9, 2010 05:12
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Xmods were my segue back into R/C about a year ago. I now have several Xmods, an SC-10, Cup Racer, and a DF-03ra if that tells you a little about what you've gotten yourself into. Xmods are a ton of fun and just as fast as the Mini Zs with a little modification and they have the advantage of coming standard in 4wd. I managed a bar last year and I bought a bunch of these for me and a few of my employees and we would stack up all the tables and chairs and would drink beer and race a track we built after hours. Any indoor area with relatively even floors will make a great track, outdoor tennis courts also work very well. I immediately got into modifying them and found that there are a ton of companies out there making parts for these things in China. These things along with Mini Zs are sold under a different name over there and have a huge racing community due to larger scales of RC being impossible in most cities with the population density what it is. Your first stop should be here: http://www.atomicmods.com/ And read this: http://www.atomicmods.com/Categories/QandA-1-28-XMODS-Evolution.aspx And this: http://www.atomicmods.com/Categories/Tutorial-Central.aspx#XMOD_Evo I'm actually looking to sell some of my Xmods stuff to fund parts for one of my other cars plus I don't work at that bar anymore. I have a couple cars and and every hop up part you'd ever want from GPM alloy parts to motors to stacked boards as well as a Lipo system with charger that will not only eliminate the need for batteries but it will get a 100% increase in speed and about four times the runtime. Let me know if you're interested or have any questions about these cars. Swordfish posted:the aftermarket for these cheap little bastards is mindmelting, and the various forums for them seem to be pretty hopping. im trying to decide right now whether to get the bog standard radioshack AWD upgrade or spring an extra $20 and get a billet aluminum awd upgrade. Go carbon fiber. Same price and a huge weight save.
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Jan 9, 2010 05:14
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Toucan Sam posted:I need a short course truck but they all seem to be pretty similar. What do you recommend? My 4yr old will be piloting it regularly so durability is kind of important. I'm leaning toward the Associated SC10 just because i can get it Carl Renezeder style. If it's for a four year old I would suggest the Slash Over the SC-10. I had to stop letting one of my bartenders use my SC-10 because he couldn't go bashing without breaking something. After he fried my Castle Mamba rig by hooking it up cross polarity I told him rather than pay me back that he should buy himself a Slash because it will be cheaper for me in the long run. He's had it for a few months and no breakage and bartenders are pretty much four year olds so the slash should work for you.
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Jan 9, 2010 13:02
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Swordfish posted:yeah, a CF driveshaft is on deck for once i get the awd system done. I went ahead and bought the standard radioshack awd upgrade, if I remain interested in tinkering with this thing long-term I will probably start buying all the real aftermarket stuff. Though I think the very next thing I do will be putting a Lipo system in, and I guess stacking some FETs. I kinda wish someone would have written a very basic tutorial about the average or recommended upgrade path, sort of an overview of building up a good xmod. I also really wish there was more info about tuning and tinkering that can be done without buying parts, just little things I can do with tools and time. The basic Radio Shack upgrades are all good for basic functionality but some pieces like the hubs and dogbones will break so often you'll wish you'd bought alloy in the first place. Like I said, if you're interested in a LiPo system and a board with stacked FETs I have both along with the chassis you'd need to mount it. I'm parting out one of my Xmods to fund my new Rally obsession. In addition to the sites I mentioned above, these two forums have a ton of $0.00 mods you can do with simple tools along with customer reviews of just about every hop up part out there; http://xmodsource.com/forum/ http://www.xmodworld.com/forum Weissbier posted:Been looking at getting back into r/c cars and in particular the Traxxas e-revo brushless. Does anyone have a recommendation for a good charger? I've spent some time off and on browsing the forums but not coming up with good info. To be honest I wouldn't buy either. If you're going to be getting at all serious into electric these days you need to be thinking not only in terms of LiPo but the future generations of batteries that will soon permeate the market like LiFe. Especially with a out of the box 65+ mph shitkicking beast like the E-Revo. Do do anything less than a 7.4v LiPo would be like putting leaded gasoline in a Lamborghini. If you start buying NiCad batteries and chargers now when they're cheap you'll regret it later and it'll be one of the first things you'll replace. I've also always stuck to the philosophy of buy once save later. My suggestion would be either this; http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHDJ1&P=7 Or this; http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUAB8&P=7 Both of these chargers will be able to charge any battery you'll be buying in the next ten years. Both are also capable of balancing your cells, a must for long term care and safety with newer batteries. Both also have a rapid charge function that roughly quarters charge time for a sacrifice in capacity. Both have a rugged anodized aluminum case and feel in your hand like a piece of professional audio equipment, obviously built to perform and not for planned obsolescence. The reason these two units share so much in common is that, like many things you'll find in the R/C world, their basic components come from the same factory in China, which is leading the way with this technology. As for their differences, I'll warn you that the interface on the Venom unit is frustrating at first and the instructions are laughably Engrish. I ended up using the instructions for the DuraTrax unit and the similarities in the basic interface made it so that I was able to program it just fine. The Venom unit listed also comes with a dazzling array of esoteric adapters and connectors from foreign lands and empires lost and should interface with any battery made in the last decade out of the box. Checking the DuraTrax's listing on Tower and scrolling down to the "What customers also bought" area tells us most of them spent a pretty penny on adapters as well. Remember this trick kiddies, it's like a crystal ball into your R/C future. I do this with any model or piece of expensive equipment I buy. One thing you may find interesting if you're an electrical engineering nerd, which is likely if you're into R/C. You can use the Venom charger as a variable A/C inverter. It's come in handy a bunch of times on non-R/C related electronics projects. Well, I hope that was helpful. Toucan Sam posted:I should have added the qualifier that she handles my hopped up T-Maxx without a problem but she really likes to jump it and full speed jumps in a T-Maxx get expensive quick. I think you made a good call sticking with that 2WD plus Venellion. As much as the Slash 4x4 makes me giggle like a little girl for what it means for the industry, the fact that it has more moving parts dictates that it will be less durable than it's 2WD counterpart, that's just basic engineering. I think everyone climbing all over each other to get the Slash 4x4 needs to stop and take a deep breath and take a good look at the industry and what's happened in the last few years. Within a year of the Slash coming out, Associated had the SC-10 and was cleaning their clock at the track. A year after that Losi, Traxxas, Associated, and HPI all have trucks fighting for the SCT Nationals (Kyosho's Ultima was released too late to compete) and Traxxas doesn't even finish on the podium and Associated and HPI steal the show. The pattern that is about to be repeated is that Trazzas sets the bar and everyone else comes by and pushes the performance limit a little further. I personally can't wait to see what everyone else has in store because if they treat this like they did their 2WD SCTs, they'll be based off their 1:10 4wd electric buggies. This will marry years of race engineering into a scale class that anyone can get into for a couple hundred bucks. Just like buggy racing, the 2Wds are here to stay so a Slash is always a sound investment in this hobby and is the perfect tool for educating someone on the hobby without getting so nerdy and technical that it scares people off. Traxxas' business plan is basically to make R/C approachable and to provide simple modifications that prepare you for going full spazz later on once the hobby has infected your central nervous system. Xmods use this same concept and all together I think it's a good kick in the rear end for a hobby industry in a recession. James Woods fucked around with this message at 20:04 on Jan 10, 2010 |
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Jan 10, 2010 19:54
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Swordfish posted:So because I hate red cars, i stripped the 370z and put a few coats of flat black on it (yes its tired but I really do have a thing for flat black on Z cars). Should I rough up the paint before spraying Testor Dullcote on it? I can't decide. I did my Nissan-GTR Xmods car in flat black originally and used Rustoleum. It creates a hard coat that helps with all the crashing that occurs with a hopped up car. Just give it a quick re-spray every couple of bashes and you're all set.
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Jan 15, 2010 22:26
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Somewhat Heroic posted:So in my spare time I have been building/designing a website and a concept behind the best HPI Baja site available. I have a business model set up to where we will have some of our profit go directly back into the Baja community through advertising for a lot of the smaller manufacturers that can't really pay for the ads because of margins. Also we are going to try and become a central hub for events, races, news, etc. I have a forum set up, nobody has really posted, and I just finally uploaded stock inventory to begin showing up on our website. It still has hour and hours worth of work to do. Check out the Dark Soul and Team FastEddy product lines for what has received the most attention (description, vids, pics, etc.). Let me know what you guys think Maybe you're the right guy to ask this. I've been wanting to get a Baja for a while now but I have just one problem. My wife will loving divorce me if I pay $1000+ up front for an R/C car. The funny thing is that my SC-10 is quickly approaching the 1k mark by itself but that's over a year of tuning it in and slowly buying parts. My solution to this was why not build a Baja entirely out of hop up parts? It seems like most of the Bajas I see out there on the forums have 1-5% of their original parts left once they've gotten it dialed in. It seems like a waste to pay a grand for what will only become a box of spares and broken parts once I have the rig I want. Besides, this way I can order a couple parts every week and slowly put the thing together taking all the time I need getting it just right. A year later I have a sweet Baja that slowly rose from the primordial ooze of my workbench and the Mrs. is none the wiser. Does this seem like a viable way to go about a build and if so, what parts would you recommend for a good balance between cost and durability? This thing is going to be a dune basher and I have no plans of competing with it so I just want it to be built like a brick shithouse so I'm not always throwing money at it.
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Jan 24, 2010 23:32
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edit
James Woods fucked around with this message at 09:51 on Feb 19, 2010 |
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Feb 19, 2010 09:47
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IOwnCalculus posted:Looking on Tower (and I'm sure I can find it cheaper elsewhere), the Futaba 2PL looks like a really good way to get a 2.4GHz spread-spectrum radio so I can stop worrying about crystals (I'm sure some of my crystals are probably also 20 years old by now anyway). Anyone got it / any reviews on it? I've always been a Futaba driver anyway, started out on a 2PBKA and later upgraded to a 2PEKA. I can't say enough things bout the Spektrum DX3S. At $200-250 it's a bit pricey but it has ten model memory, telemetry, digital reverse and trim, and a bazillion other custom settings if you really want to geek out. Plus it comes with one regular and one telemetry receiver and a full set of telemetry sensors. These alone would cost you about $200 if purchased separately. It also comes with rechargeable batteries with a harness to fit them to any modern charger. You could even leave them in the Tx and plug your charger into a port in the base of the grip for quick charging at the track. I'm an old timer like you who got back into this hobby THANKS TO THIS loving THREAD and I gotta say that the amount of control and response you get with these 2.4ghz rigs is miles beyond what I thought capable for the hobby back in the eighties. Not to mention the loving range. When I'm at the beach my only limiting factor is my eyesight at a quarter mile out when standing on top of a dune. The point is, buy once save later and if you must buy Futaba, go for the 3PK. If you're getting serious about this hobby again you'll want a radio that you won't want to upgrade in a year.
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Feb 21, 2010 10:37
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IOwnCalculus posted:Oooh, that's nice. That's new to me and a pretty clever idea for those jumping back in on a budget. Spektrum also has an entry model spread spectrum Tx that just came out the DX3E. It has a lot of the features of the DX3S but no model memory and no screen interface but a lot of the same customability with the settings. They go for about $90 and come with a rx and servo. I plan on buying one as a second receiver for when I'm bashing with friends. The nice thing will be that the DX3E was kind of designed as a second Tx and you can quickly bind it to your existing models without unbinding them from the Dx3S or altering their settings. This way I'll be able to run any combination of two models at the same time without worrying about re-binding, readjusting settings, or swapping Rxs. Check this out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MOic8-Y9Ab4 kuffs posted:I'm looking to get rid of my 3PM 2.4gHz. I'll make you a good deal on it. If you have your heart set on Futaba, this is a pretty sweet deal.
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Feb 22, 2010 00:58
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If I get into this hobby again and stick with it, that's probably where I'll end up long term.
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Frobbe posted:what's the consensus on the HPI E-Firestorm flux? (http://modelsport.co.uk/index.php?CallFunction=ShowSpecification&ItemID=29950) It depends on what you want it for. The Firestorm is a 1/10 Stadium Truck and the E-Revo is a monster truck designed to be the ultimate indestructible basher. Frobbe posted:EDIT: Also, how is the HPI blitz for actual racing? there's an attempt at getting a short course league started around here, and the blitz hits the sweet spot with regards to price/performance for me. krushgroove posted:http://www.hpiracing.com/kitinfo/104558/ If I were in the market for a new SCT this is what I would get. All the hop up manufacturers that are worth a drat are all making parts for them already. IOwnCalculus posted:I'm pretty much dead set on getting a SC10 at this point, though I'll be waiting a month or so for the revised kit coming out sometime next month. The Blitz looks good but it's not out as a kit yet, and my 1985-vintage AE logos would look a little out of place on the body. I wouldn't bother waiting for the new ones to come out unless you plan on racing stock in which case you should get a Blitz because it's the fastest of the three out of the box. The alterations they will be making, the A-Arms, Turnbuckles, axles, and Shock posts, are all things you'll want to replace with RPM, Lunsford, MIP, etc..
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Feb 23, 2010 04:05
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James Woods posted:I wouldn't bother waiting for the new ones to come out unless you plan on racing stock in which case you should get a Blitz because it's the fastest of the three out of the box. The alterations they will be making, the A-Arms, Turnbuckles, axles, and Shock posts, are all things you'll want to replace with RPM, Lunsford, MIP, etc.. kuffs posted:Oh whatever, I beat the piss out of mine and haven't needed to replace a stock turnbuckle. An RPM front-end just means that nobody at the track will be able to spot you a spare. (They use different hinges). And, a lot of guys use ball diffs, but I'm still competitive with my gear diff. You've really never thrown a turnbuckle? Are you driving it or just scooting it back an forth on the carpet with your hands making "Vroom vroom!" noises? With a brushless rig mine'll throw the stock turnbuckles in the air like party confetti in any serious front end collision. The stock ball cups are just made of too soft a plastic and the turnbuckles themselves are made of pretty flimsy steel. I originally fixed this with a Lunsford B4 titanium turnbuckle set and some RPM ball ends but I still lose the occasional turnbuckle after a big jump or hit. To eliminate this problem once and for all I'll be getting these; http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFRG8&P=FR and this; http://www.myatomic.com/catalog/viewsku?sku=LNS14016 to eliminate the ball cups entirely. The Titanium hinge pins are not only helpful but pretty much necessary at this point because I'll be directing all that torsional stress usually exiting the system via a failed ball cup directly to the front chassis brace. This is something a lot of people fail to consider when modifying their cars. If you replace one part that is prone to failure with a more durable part, that energy is still going to have to go somewhere and will likely break the next part in the chain. This is the reason I went with these; http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRFW4&P=FR Yes, the RPM arms need to use their proprietary bulkhead (which is provided) but these things are loving indestructible and at $12 a set you can buy an extra set for spares but trust me, if these things break you have bigger problems than a broken A-Arm. I went through two sets of stock and one set of Factory Team Carbon Fiber a-arms before going with these almost a year ago and they've held up without a hitch since. The RPM units also use captured hinge pins so you can eliminate the use for e-clips making track swaps like you mentioned a lot easier. I'm going with the ball diff mainly because the gear diff seems to have a hard time handling the power of my motor coming out of a turn and all the guys i know who run Mod SCT swear by them. Not to mention I've yet to use a product from MIP that wasn't top notch quality with the exception of those capture rings they put on their CVDs but I figured out a cheap and easy way to eliminate those if anyone is interested. Some of these modifications may seem like overkill but bear in mind I put 2-8 packs through this thing every night jumping on asphalt and getting in full speed head on collisions with other trucks, fire hydrants, brick walls, homeless people, etc.. After almost a year of zero failures (save the aforementioned lost turnbuckles) my buddy finally managed to land a 20' jump nose first on the concrete and broke one of the factory casters this week. So now I've decided that rather than dropping a wheelbarrow full of cash on building a new 1/8 brushless buggy I'm gonna spend $100-$200 on "finishing" my SC-10 and making it as strong and as fast as humanly possible. Expect a big rebuild post when my government cheese comes in.
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Feb 23, 2010 23:56
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SGT. Squeaks posted:Last night I started the dreaded complete tear down of every single part for cleaning and inspection on my IGT2. I've already found a few surprise broken or missing parts. Hopefully the bill isn't too much. I'm already nearing $100. I just did this to my SC10 last night and also found a few plastic parts that drat near disintegrated when I pulled them. I think I'm gonna mail the pieces to Associated, I've heard they like to get this kind of feedback from customers for future products. It looks like I'll be spending at least $200 in the next week to get it where I want it. I swear, next time I buy a model I should get something with no hop up support, it's just too loving tempting for a gearhead.
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Feb 26, 2010 01:54
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kuffs posted:Welp, I am forced to eat my own words. I bent a turnbuckle and busted a shock cap and yet another A-arm this weekend. I tried the Factory Team ones but am upgrading to these http://www.myatomic.com/catalog/viewsku?sku=LNS14016 And if you really wanna go tough like I was saying before, couple them with these http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFRG8&P=FR This will eliminate the ball and cap system and bolt down your turnbuckles like the 1/8 buggies do. But as I said before, this energy needs to go somewhere. The shock caps have always been an issue and going over to the Factory Team aluminum shock caps is the easiest and least expensive way to pretty much permanently solve this and any other future shock problems. That is unless you're a complete loser like me and want to drop some serious money on some of these http://www.rcboca.com/pro-line-racing-powerstroke-shocks-front-slash.html and that's just for the front ones.
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Mar 1, 2010 09:28
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kuffs posted:I've got RPM ball cups on it right now. Given that they don't really pop off I think I'm going to go with the standard Lunsford buckles. The combination of the RPM ends and Lunsford buckles should be as strong as you'd need, other things are bound to fail first. For the shock caps I'm pretty sure these should fit; http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_25_1139/products_id/7960/n/Team-Associated-Factory-Team-Aluminum-Shock-End-Cap-Blue-4 Frobbe posted:having ignored the advice given here, regarding short course trucks, i went out and bought an SC10, because drat that thing is cheap. You just made an awesome purchase, my vote for the HPI was namely because they're new, not necessarily better than the SC10. It depends if you plan on racing it or not and if so if you want to race stock. Is it gonna be a basher, racer, or both? How fast do you want it to go? How durable do you want it to be? How much are you willing to spend? I'll tell you you'll want a brushless system eventually if not within a week or running that thing. You can always save your stock motor and ESC for box stock races. I went with the Novak Ballistic : http://www.amainhobbies.com/product...n=Product-Feeds after having a CC 4600 because you can quickly switch out the rotors for whatever turn you want for track days or bashing in certain conditions. Combine this with a pinion gear set from Robinson Racing http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEX34&P=FR and you have any turn/gear ratio combination you'd ever need. One essential thing (part of the reason the HPI is my preferred out of the box) is some CVDs from MIP. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXZL9&P=FR This gets rid of the dogbones and is generally a good idea especially if going brushless. You should also refer to kuffs' and my conversation over the last couple pages reguarding turnbuckles, front a-arms, and shock caps. James Woods fucked around with this message at 07:22 on Mar 2, 2010 |
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Mar 2, 2010 07:02
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Frobbe posted:i'd actually want it for racing, although i do have to buy another just for bashing later on and breakproof that one. I don't see any reason you'd have to buy two trucks for bashing and racing. The great thing about SCTs is that you can get racing performance out of a bashable platform. I plan on racing my SC10 in SCT Open Mod this summer as well as using it for bashing, jumping, beach driving, and stunt footage in the city. I have no doubt that it will do both jobs very well but it will end up costing me roughly the same as two moderately modified trucks. I've heard mixed reviews about LRP's quality so this doesn't entirely surprise me. Tamiya plugs are very prone to this sort of thing if the connectors are bent and they're way to easy to plug in cross parallel. Keep in mind that if you have a battery connected to your car it is ON even if it is switched off. Just like leaving things plugged in but off at your house, there is still electricity running through the system in most cases. This is why you should never leave a battery in a car overnight. You can't go wrong with a Dean's Plug; http://www.toysonics.com/10-pairs-2-pin-golden-plated-deans-connector-t-plug.html What kind of transmitter do you have? You may be able to overcome the limitations of the ESC with a proper Tx that has it's own throttle punch and reverse settings like the DX3x, 3Px, whatever. 15.5 should be plenty to learn on. I'd look into what motor limits your local tracks do and choose one you think appropriate for your budget and skill level to determine a future motor upgrade. Stock speed is very subjective and depends on a lot of variables, most of which is the batteries you run. The tests I've seen with the RTR put it anywhere between 20-25 mph with a NiCad battery. With higher voltage, "C', and "S" rated batteries this number can reach 30-40mph but the truck will likely melt it's bearings at that speed without CVDs. My big target speed I'm trying to reach with mine is 60mph but I'm not even sure if that's possible, the fastest I've gotten it clocked by radar is 45. Frobbe posted:i want tires like that on the Sc10, they are nice! kuffs posted:
These are on my Tower wishlist for the beach this summer. Pretty much the best sand tires out there right now. Somewhat Heroic posted:James Woods & kuffs I have yet to ever break a Factory Team titanium turnbuckle, and I have broken plenty of the Lunsford ones. The SuperDuty versions are pretty freaking tough. I never stray from the standard AE ball cups though - RPM ones are too bendy. I've learned that whatever will do in a #7230 ball cup will ruin the RPM one. Having a bent rod end will mess up your camber/toe etc as well. I've never "broken" a FT turnbuckle but have bent plenty. I'm yet so see a Lunsford Punisher bend much or break but anything is possible. This requires mentioning a few things about titanium. Titanium has this reputation of being this space aged super material that while quite strong and extremely light, is actually very soft. This is why no matter how popular the metal becomes for firearms applications you will never see it used in barrels because it can't hold a rifling. Titanium parts will bend (especially turnbuckles and hinge pins) but can usually be brought back to their original shape either by hand or with simple hand tools. My RPM ball ends are yet to permanently deform but they do have a bit of give to them. Again, this is why I'm ditching them altogether.
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Mar 3, 2010 03:45
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I went bashing with a buddy of mine who just bought a 1/16 E-Revo Brushless and Jesus that thing if loving fast. Since my SC-10 has been completely torn down, my DF03ra lost a retaining pin and I still haven't fabricated one, and the Slash is so boring so I dusted off my rally prepped HPI Cup Racer, which i had been intending to race at a local track that does 1/10M, and took out the shocks and put on the rally wheels for some fun at the park. Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. I forgot how amazing this thing drives both on road and off. It's so easy to initiate drift with these tires and you can snap back into control in a second. Here it is driving sideways.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. The funny thing is that this is the car that got me back into RC a while back and while it's seen the most abuse, it's had zero failures or breakages. I have been whipping this bitch like a two dollar whore and she keeps coming back for more. This had reaffirmed that I will definitely buy another HPI model sometime in the future.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image.
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Mar 5, 2010 12:45
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kuffs posted:Krushgroove, I want a Lancia Stratos body like this http://www.hpiracing.com/dcinfo/8049/ for a Cup Racer. Also, get us a lexan underbody. This is the closest I've found and unfortunately will not fit a Cup Racer but it will fit a DF03ra or any 1/10 Touring to Rally Car conversion. http://www.geocities.jp/wrfyt827/tsl010B-1.htm Unfortunately the Stratos was a tiny car and would just look weird next to an Impreza or Lancer of the same scale. Part of the reason I liked this conversion is because I can run older rally style bodies on a scale that fits with the rest of my garage.
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Mar 6, 2010 00:33
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Any of you guys ever check out the nutjobs who do custom scale vehicles like the guys at http://www.scale4x4rc.org/home/ ? There is some amazing work on their forums. Keep in mind these models are not kits, they are custom built rigs made from scratch built and scavenged parts requiring hundreds of hours of fabrication and a monastic like dedication to celibacy.  Click here for the full 1008x691 image. http://www.scale4x4rc.org/forums/showthread.php?t=32426  Click here for the full 710x1310 image. http://www.scale4x4rc.org/forums/showthread.php?t=11546  Click here for the full 800x600 image. http://www.scale4x4rc.org/forums/showthread.php?t=17133  Click here for the full 800x600 image. http://www.scale4x4rc.org/forums/showthread.php?t=29135 Hand Made Unibody Frame and Body  Click here for the full 800x600 image. http://www.scale4x4rc.org/forums/showthread.php?t=30045&page=29 Those of you who think buying a RTR off Tower is dorky need to check this poo poo out and turn in your nerd cards at the door.
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Mar 12, 2010 02:27
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Frobbe posted:well now, i've got some sort of Thunder Tiger Nitro car incoming, although i havent the faintest idea which model it is! That looks to me like an older EB4 buggy that has been modified to take super nitro 1/8 bodies like their newer SP2 Rally. Here's some Nitro whitepapers from RC Tech to get you started. http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-off-road/295491-break-bible.html http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-off-road/295490-tuning-bible.html Should be a fun car when you get it running.
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Mar 15, 2010 00:17
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kuffs posted:Krushgroove, what is this thing? http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1210201 Notice the brake lines and calipers, they're real. If only I had a place to run one.
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Mar 15, 2010 08:35
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kuffs posted:I'm not into the scene, but here's what I gather so far: They use plastic tires, or some kind of special hard 'drift' tire. I think they lock the diffs in both the front and the back. And then they stiffen up the suspension. You can get proper drift out of any touring car that has enough torque to engage intentional wheel spin in a tight turn. It's pretty much a matter of entering the corner with about two thirds throttle then hitting the gas and turning into the skid similar top how you'd drift your wife's Toyota through a Popeye's Chicken parking lot while she's on a business trip in Iowa. Personally I think the plastic tires and drift control units take all the fun out of it as getting the car to drift properly takes a lot of practice but is very rewarding when you get the hang of it. These kinds of mods, in addition to rendering the car useless for anything but drifting, change the model from a scale RC car and into a "Drifting Robot" if you get my meaning and demonstrate the same philosophy that turns me away from Pan Cars and Comp Crawlers. A front spool and any rubber tire that has low traction on asphalt combined with a high torque motor and gearing setup will do the job with some practice. This summer I'm considering entering my Tamiya Rally Car in a drift competition since it's configuration for actual RC Rally racing already has all of the things I stated above and performs on asphalt kinda like a Gymkhana car. I won't win any trophies trying this but I will actually be burning rubber not PVC pipe. edit: In other news, my SC-10 has recently undergone significant blingification. I recently installed the first two stages in what will be a five stage rebuild to get my truck ready to compete in Open Mod SCT this summer. Prior to this rebuild I had already installed a Novak HAVOC 3s ESC and Ballistic 8.5t rebuildable motor, Pro Line Beadlocks mounted with Switch tires, Factory Team titanium turnbuckles with RPM ball ends, RPM front A-Arms and Factory Team carbon rear, MIP CVDs, STRC front and rear hubs, J Concepts Truth body, and a bunch of other miscellaneous other small poo poo. When I ordered the first two shipments of parts I completely tore the truck down and cleaned each part and stored them in little plastic baggies filled with WD-40 labeled for the rebuild. The first two stages of the rebuild were Transmission and Chassis. These two stages represent the bulk of the expense of what will turn out to be a very expensive rebuild. If you're into RC people who aren't will invariably ask after making the mistake of seeing your RC collection and casually mentioning it, "How much did you spend fixing this thing up?'. It's a painful question and one that had different answers if my wife is in earshot. I prefer to think of my cars in "RTRs" or how many RTRs of the same car I could buy with the money invested in it. It stings a little less than s solid dollar value. Prior to this build the truck was at about 2 RTRs. The Chassis and Transmission upgrades take that number up to 4. First was the transmission as this is kind of the beating heart of the car that everything else is built around. First was a MIP Ball Differential which is kind of a given for competition these days and while it will improve performance, I can already tell that it will require a lot more maintenance than the gear diff needed meaning any at all. I coupled this with a Hot Racing 27t Aluminum idler gear and MIP Top End. This was all supposed to go in a Golden Horizions Aluminum Transmission Case but they're back ordered at the moment so I'll have to wait an indeterminate amount of time to get one from China. I know GH doesn't have the best reputation but I really want to get as many metal on metal contact surfaces as possible as I'll explain later. I also got a set of Hot Racing Aluminum Spur Gears and a set of Robinson Racing Pinion Gears so I can dial in any gear ratio I want with the swappable rotors in my Ballistic motor. This all metal gearbox is also for later on down the road when I really start putting some wacky batteries in it to see what it can handle. The next item was the Chassis. This mostly included replacing a few parts that had disintegrated from a year of hard abuse as I tore the truck down. This included the Chassis Braces and Castors and were replaced with Aluminum parts from Golden Horizions and STRC. I also wanted to replace a few other parts like the Shock Towers and Body Mounts with aluminum parts from STRC so I could have as many metal on metal surfaces as possible for the RC Screwz Stainless Steel Screw Kit I put in so I could Loctite down as many things as possible without having to worry about stripping heads. I also installed an aluminum STRC battery brace for extra rigidity and low CG weight in the chassis.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. The next three stages in order will be the Shocks, Steering, and finally the Body and Exterior. I'll post updates when future upgrades come in and track reports when I finally race it. James Woods fucked around with this message at 02:29 on Mar 26, 2010 |
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Mar 25, 2010 20:16
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Laserface posted:Stainless screws are soft as poo poo and I dont understand your reasoning for it at all? They're actually considerably stronger than the stock screws and have the added bonus of not corroding. RC Screwz will also refund or replace your kit if you ever break a screw or are otherwise unsatisfied.
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Mar 28, 2010 23:25
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krushgroove posted:haha Ask him when they'll be releasing a Blitz 4x4 so I can give them a big bag of money.
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Mar 31, 2010 18:53
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just spreading the info...
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kuffs posted:Where's my 4wd version AE!?!?! Replacing the arms with those from the Long Arm kit would allow for a tad more suspension travel but standard Rally modifications will get you to the limit of your rear Diff's outdrives already. That modification is really to give you a wider range of bodies to choose from and that can be achieved with wider offset wheels. The TT-01 is arguably the most popular car to modify for rallying and in the RC Rally videos I post probably two thirds of the cars are TT-01s under the shell. This is because the TT-01 is a cheap, shaft driven 4wD, with a bucket chassis, and tons of cheap hop up parts available. If you do get it I'd suggest the following mods right off the bat in addition to chopping the chassis for more A-Arm travel, sealing the electronics and gears, and getting some Tamiya Rally Block Tires. http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-tt01-yeah-racing-steelalum-universal-shaft-tamiya-tt01e-tt015v2rd-p-25584.html http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-tt01-3racing-alum-solid-axle-tt0125lb-p-25246.html http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-damper-yeah-racing-55mm-touring-4pcs-dp1002ti-p-25326.html When things start breaking from rally driving you can look into replacing a few parts like the arms with aluminum.
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Apr 6, 2010 22:12
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kuffs posted:I'm tempted to buy a DF-03Ra, but I don't know that the battery area will fit my weird 34mm tall Chinese lipos. Anyone have a DF-03 they could measure for me? Hmm.. Let me check my workbench. You mean one of these?  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. Ironically (pay attention GBS lurkers, this is a proper use of irony) I was setting up my DF-03RA for on road use for some drifting tomorrow when I read your post. To answer your question, my calipers say the battery box, located on the bottom on this model, is unfortunately just over 24mm deep.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. Although I must say that if you're thinking of getting into Rally this is far and away the best option performance wise and can be had as an ARTR kit(minus radio gear) for $200 or less and is worth buying a few Turnigy batteries for. There is something to be said however for taking a car and modifying it yourself as the process of figuring it out and fabricating and testing are half the fun. I've done both and still can't tell which of my rally cars, the DF-03RA or my modified Cup Racer are faster on a rally type surface. I actually just bought a DX3E from a local hobby shop yesterday so I could have a second transmitter that will work interchangeably with my existing radio gear without having to reset or rebind anything. Next week I'm hoping to go down to Golden Gate Park and pit the two up against each other on some of the baseball diamonds and hiking trails. edit: Some inspiration. http://www.autoblog.com/2010/04/06/video-super-slo-mo-r-c-cars-lose-all-sense-of-scale/ James Woods fucked around with this message at 23:54 on Apr 6, 2010 |
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Apr 6, 2010 23:38
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kuffs posted:Aha! that's how the battery gets into one of those. Exactly, I have the same units on my DF-03RA and the Cup Racer comes standard with CVDs because HPI is awesome. I've seen guys put upwards of a 8.5-6.5 in these and they've handled it but the drivers couldn't. When I finally get around to really loving around with mine (as soon as I'm done ruining my marriage with my SC-10) I'll be putting a brushless system in probably in the 9-13.5 range along with some metal gears to toughen up the transmission and a slipper clutch, which is a must for any brushless build on these things. kuffs posted:I was hunting through Hobby King the other day and I wasn't able to find anything cheap that would fit. Recommendations? These will be a tight fit but if their measurements are correct they'll work. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9514&Product_Name=Turnigy_5000mAh_2S_30C_Lipo_Pack These will definitely fit http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=10724&Product_Name=Turnigy_4000mAh_2S_30C_Lipo_Pack_%28DE_Warehouse%29 You could always opt for the graphite chassis seen here http://www.etamiya.com/shop/tamiya-df03-chassis-graphite-conversion-kit-for-tamiya-dark-impact-3racing-df0315wo-p-10000732.html which will eliminate any battery fitment problems as you'll strap em' on with Velcro like a buggy. Trust me I'm tempted. James Woods fucked around with this message at 05:46 on Apr 7, 2010 |
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Apr 7, 2010 01:30
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kuffs posted:So, I'm tempted to buy this http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-items-sale-trade/377997-rare-df-03ms-4wd-buggy-artr-w-virtually-no-run-time.html and scavenge it to make a nice DF-03RA. Will the important parts like the shocks, turnbuckes, and u-joints fit on an 03RA? Tamiya's parts database is loving obnoxious. The only hop ups he had that you'll be able to use are the Heat Sink Bar, Slipper Clutch, Center One Way, and Propeller Cup Joint (about $50-$70 in parts), and a Hobbywing EZ Run Brushless system which can be had for nothing on ebay. I say get the kit as you'll want all the spares along with the manuals and tools and the bodies are really nice. I'd get the Lancer Evo X one as it comes with the overtray standard. No tax and free shipping for $207 http://www.myatomic.com/catalog/viewsku?sku=TAM58440
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Apr 20, 2010 10:54
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kuffs posted:It looks like all the TT-01 upgrades you posted will work with the DF-03RA, is that right? The dampers are a for sure fit, any touring car damper of at least 50mm should work. The CVDs should also work as the unis from the DF03-RA are the same as the TT01. I don't think the diff however will work. I use this and it greatly improved the handling of the car. http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-df03-tamiya-front-oneway-unit-53953-p-22575.html?cPath=595_744_1292 Yeah Racing and 3Racing are both pretty much the same quality wise (I've heard they're actually from the same factory) and despite others complaints I've never had a problem with any of the many parts I've gotten from either company. James Woods fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Apr 23, 2010 |
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Apr 20, 2010 20:59
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kuffs posted:I think you meant to link something besides the CV joints? Yea my bad. I've edited the post to link to this; http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-df03-tamiya-front-oneway-unit-53953-p-22575.html?cPath=595_744_1292 kuffs posted:I'm trying to figure out if the 'inner chassis protector' is just a Dark Impact body. I'd much rather have the Monte Carlo Impreza than the Evo X. kuffs posted:Annnnd the answer is here http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-tamiya-92203-df03ra-mitsubishi-lancer-p-29379.html Thats why I was trying to steer you towards the Evo X. The Dark Impact bodies are actually getting kinda hard to find these days and makes me wish I'd opted differently when I bought mine. kuffs posted:I already have some of the 5.0's. Is the battery box wide enough to fit that thing? Keep in mind that the wire isn't all that flexible. I had to mod the battery tray on my SC10 to make those things fit. I'm not sure what you're refeering to by "5.0" but the batteries I posted should fit if their measurements are accurate. There are actually several holes at the fore and end of the inner part of the battery tray to accommodate the wires.
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Apr 23, 2010 01:34
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krushgroove posted:I'm not against speed or anything, don't get me wrong You should see if any of your local tracks run 1/10M cars like the Cup Racer, Genetic, or M-05. These cars were designed to be a spec class like you're describing and all feature really beautiful bodies from the seventies. You could get one of those together with a 17.5 brushless system, 2S Lipos and a 2.4ghz radio for under $400 and you'll be running rubber tires that wear a helluva a lot slower than a touring car with a 6.5 on foams.
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May 8, 2010 23:13
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NVaderJ posted:I don't know where else to ask this, and my Google-Fu is failing me tonight. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIOqy2h2kOU James Woods fucked around with this message at 07:49 on May 9, 2010 |
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May 9, 2010 07:44
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