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krushgroove posted:Should drive good on hardwood or super-low pile carpet, I've driven them on linoleum and they work really well there too. Although I work for HPI I would think about the Mini-Z, there's more bodies and more options available for those, at least at the moment. Kyosho also just announced micro versions of the Optima and Ultima with 4WD, check out RedRC. Kyosho is ridiculously expensive though. the Dnano range looks awesome but again, $250 + parts for an RC the size of a kids foot doesnt add up. Ill ask another one - of the two losi micro crawlers (the trail trekker and the other one) which is considered better? we have some nice rocky area nearby that would be perfect for a tiny crawler.
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Sep 6, 2011 02:50
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| # ¿ May 12, 2024 18:06 |
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Nerobro posted:I do. And it's awesome. I've got some 400mah LiPo's in it now. It will wheelie! however, it's not very fast, nor very exciting to drive unless you're driving it up something fun. I have a Mini SCT and its great fun although the track I was running at near my old job was really dry, hard packed and dusty. challenging to get around with 2wd and tiny cars with lots of power. gonna look into the trail trekker BnD as i already have 2.4ghz gear from the mini SCT.
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Sep 7, 2011 06:41
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Losi out with a 1:5 4x4 SCT. My wallet is crying.
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Sep 16, 2011 06:36
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Does anyone here have any 1:64 scale RCs? Im buying up a few online since parts are scarce and I like collecting them. mostly after Tomy Bit Char G/Micro Sizers but if theres clones that share parts I am interested.
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Oct 12, 2011 00:52
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Im 99% certain that zip zaps were a rebranded form of the Tomy models. microsizers were a bit longer and had a more scale look rather than the cartoony "bunched up" styling of Bits, but used the same electronics, motor and gear sets. Ive found 3-4 websites that still list some of the rarer items in stock and have been contacting them to buy out their remaining stock. for whatever reason I love these little things and there is just some kits/body shells I absolutely have to own. What im really after is the Super bit Char G kits for Skyline, Ferrari and Lamboghini, but I think im SOL when it comes to them. moving in to a house with polished floorboards was both a great idea (looks awesome) and a bad idea (spending all my money on micro RCs)
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Oct 12, 2011 23:19
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krushgroove posted:Ah yes I remember now there were a couple of competing micro RC car lines. I'm glad I got the ones I did, plus the options and body sets. But I did only get one car, so I can't run it with anyone else, so it's basically a shelf queen, if that's possible. yeah. I got a really nice set when the craze was in full swing (automodelista set) which came with FD RX-7, R32 GTR, R34 GTR and a Supra, all with racing stripes, and the electronics was series II which has speed boost/NOS button. I also have Nissan Gloria, Celica and another plain red R32 GTR which i bought as a pull-back. Hopefully also picking up a Skyline 2000GT, blue R34, Lancer evo VII, AE86 Levin & Trueno and a NSX. plus a bunch of pull backs to convert my gearsets to use the wider rims and tires. Theres also the elusive photo-etch 3pc wheels made by Scala43 for the German market models, but I didnt feel like paying 60 Euro for a set of miniature BBS wheels.
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Oct 13, 2011 01:24
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Oh yeah, I was too. they have a neat little (though somewhat broken) "build your ride" type flash app that lets you choose your body and then see what their variety of wheels look like. all of them are DEEP DISH too so they really finish off the JDM look. http://www.tomica.de/RETAILSHOP/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=87&osCsid=b394b9348d03ada6a4fdca9bf288b5c0 for 60 euro though they can kiss my rear end. the pull back Bit rims and tires do the same thing, and are pretty cool looking anyway. EDIT: oh no I just saw what the NSX looks like with Alpine 4 holes 
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Oct 13, 2011 10:50
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Soooooo Traxxas has that new 100mph onroad car now. Casual $1k price tag. I wonder at what point do RC cars just become outright too fast to actually control? I mean you hit a pebble at 100mph and youre pretty much boned.
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Dec 5, 2011 00:11
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Boba_Fettish posted:I'm pretty much sea level right now, but the top of our pass is around 3800 feet, but I don't go up there unless I'm getting out of town. I should have said this before, I'm pretty much sold on Electric because there are no hobby shops or anywhere I could get gas for it here without traveling 700 miles round trip to buy it in bulk. anything 4WD and big - Savage, E-Revo, etc.
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Dec 15, 2011 11:32
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So, I am addicted to micro RC. These were a big craze about 5 years ago, although occasionally new ones are released in different formats. The truck one is the most recent - Airhogs Thunder Trucks. it has working front and rear suspension and 2 speed forward controlled by a button on the remote (IR). unfortunately while its very similar in construction to the Bit-Char Gs (the cars) they dont share any parts. The motor is smaller, the gear set different, and axles/knuckles are different. Still, plenty of fun to play with since it isnt toppled easily or stopped by dusty floorboards. The cars are bit-char Gs. Japanese RC (radio) that came as a kit you had to build yourself (to a degree). fit the gears, tires, rear axle and the body, charge and go. they mainly focused on Japanese cars that had an impact on car culture, with a few oddballs for good measure (you can get yoshi and mario "mario karts" Japanese buses, and speed racer modesl too). I started out when the craze was big with a chinese knock off, then upgraded later to a genuine kit that was also a limited edition 2 speed model, similar to the truck. They also spawned a line of pull-back cars that had other bodies. I have a bunch of mods and accessories for them, like ripple strips and cones for making circuits on the floor, tire sets (soft, medium, hard) motors (ranging from 10,000RPM up to 40,000), gear sets, Sway-bars and (home made) suspension, motor heatsinks and third party up grades like photo-etched alloy wheels. From left to right - Honda Mobil NSX, Skyline 2000 GT-R, Nissan Gloria, Thunder Truck, Nissan 350Z, Mitsubishi Ralliar WRC Evo VII.  other bodies: Evo VII, R32 GT-R, Supra, FD RX-7, R34 GT-R, Celica  Theres also Ferraris, Porsche, Lamborghini and lotus models, but they are even harder to find than what I already have (and Japanese is more my style anyway).
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Dec 17, 2011 02:30
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Olde Weird Tip posted:I never understood rc towing dickwaving contests. Who regularly tows with an rc car? Absolutely no one. So who cares how much it can pull. The same people that care about shelf queens and ALL ALLOY PARTS MAKE THE BEST BASHERS. I was into nitro pretty heavily around the days of the Savage supremacy. The only alloy parts I put on that werent there from the factory was steering bellcranks and diff cups. Plenty of flex for lovely landings and cheap to replace. The guys with alloy arms and shocks constantly bending poo poo, always moaning about how much they spent and how 'cheap' the parts were made. I kinda miss those days, then I remember what it was like to have to choose between lunch or buying more parts to get my RC ready for next weekend and I kinda get over it. Micro RC is proving to be quite enough for me, for now.
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Dec 21, 2011 01:46
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krushgroove posted:hehe I remember that, guys showing up at parking lot races with $1000 investment (minus engine, pipe, electronics, etc.) into a $200 car and wondering why it was slow, heavy and very expensive to crash. Those were the days! well yeah. I mean I poured money into my Savage(s) but it was always on spare parts because I drove it with one goal in mind - to pull ridiculous poo poo at all costs. The guys with 2K revos (in Australia, revos were initially priced around 1K) would be trying to pull off similar jumps and just shattering their suspension, scratching their heads, throwing on more red tie-rods and trying again. Things that kept ruining my day at the BMX track, like diffs chewing out or ring gears stripping (which were a 20+ bolt and greasy/dirty way to spend an hour) got upgrades to alloy parts, I went from pullstarts to electric starters then back to pulls, alloy fuel tank holders to stop it cracking on hard landings, and a chassis with a skid plate that screwed on through the TVPs for super rigidity. I plowed that thing off-centre into a pole at the top of 3rd gear on a .30ci motor and it still came away straight as a die. I mean, I bent dogbones, cracked A-arms, wheels, and vaporised the carrier hubs, but the chassis was straight! I eventually replaced the Savages with an LST2 which handled infinitely better but ultimately was not as well suited to hucking off berms at the BMX track and catching 60' of off-axis air.
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Dec 21, 2011 10:30
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Olde Weird Tip posted:When I used to own a Stampede and followed the Stampede world, I remember guys who would literally build all-alloy stampedes, as in no factory plastic remaining except the wheels. pretty much this. RPM arms were the poo poo. I mean I went through about 1.5 spur gears in a day of bashing the savage, but a $10 weak point is OK with me if it protects my 3speed and clutch. I could nearly change that fucker while blindfolded.
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Dec 21, 2011 15:19
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Man I love the idea of the Cup Racer, I just wish more clubs (read: the only onroad club within 1hrs drive of me) supported them. Wont even let em run in the Mini class 
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Dec 21, 2011 23:28
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I had this problem a lot with my savage, the solution was the clamp on style alloy hexes for the wheels (to stop you losing the pin when it all goes to poo poo) and then getting lock nuts with serrated faces. the clamp on hexes I used also had some extra surfaces on them to bite into the wheels better. although by the end of it I just bought some of those beadlocker wheels as the hexes were much strong than the HPI crap I was using. Proline wheels are also really strong. for some reason most people were converting to or buying trucks pre-fitted with the buggy style hexes also. not sure why but they seemed a little better.
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Jan 12, 2012 07:31
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So HPI ha shown off gas (as in not nitro) 1/8 size engines in a few of their products at the Nuremberg toy fair. cheaper, easier to find fuel is probably the only thing going for ICE engines in the hobby now. What other benefits is gas going to have over nitro? Will we start seeing 4 stroke make it to surface vehicles, and then turbo and supercharging? How much headroom is left in combustion engines for hobby vehicles? Lipos, brushless have made EP vehicles fast, clean, and cheaper to run than GP, so I'm not sure HPI should have dumped so much research money into new fuel types for small engines. Discuss.
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Feb 3, 2012 23:17
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krushgroove posted:Also cleaner and possibly quieter (a real problem in Europe and Japan, tracks near housing estates are in real danger of being shut down). The tech has been in RC planes for a while, so like LiPo and brushless it just makes sense to borrow the idea. From the looks of them, they are two stroke? Will we ever see 4 stroke mainstream in land rc?
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Feb 5, 2012 00:57
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I read on bigsquidrc.com that they are more reliable to tune due to electronics handling something? It was in the breakdown of the press release about it. Also, since I mentioned it, is there any other rc blogs worth reading? I mainly go there to see what new models are out and keep an eye on the scene since I know when the right product comes out I will jump back into the money pit with the rest of you. Bigsquidrc are good but that's all I really know.
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Feb 5, 2012 11:47
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Somewhat Heroic posted:I have found Red R/C to be pretty much the best source for new stuff. Besides that I'll check out the RC Car Action news/new stuff forum. The cup racer has always enticed me. unfortunately its not allowed to run at my local track and there isnt a great deal of places nearby I could take it.I just want a cool looking Levin with deep dish watanabes I also want a drifter....and a touring to use at the track. and a short course for the local dirt club...gently caress this thread.
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Feb 7, 2012 01:04
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krushgroove posted:"Isn't allowed" or just no class to race in? That would suck if they specifically tell you you can't drive on the track. I know some people moan about driving with cars that aren't in the same category, but if you're new and willing to pay to drive they should let you have a bit of fun. No class. Not even allowed to run with the minis
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Feb 7, 2012 15:24
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krushgroove posted:haha, I was going to ask if you're a dipper Im no stranger to RC but definitely not versed in circuit racing or club procedures. I wouldnt mind being a marshall occasionally as a volunteer just so i could get close enough to get sweet photos
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Feb 9, 2012 06:34
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so continuing down my path of joining the local club, who here knows much about Minis? they seem the cheapest to buy into for racing and from what Ive seen at the track definitely the most crazy. whats the better of the 3 tamiya mini chassis?
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Feb 20, 2012 02:12
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nitros tend to be poo poo for drifting because they dont get the airflow required to keep cool thanks to the lower speeds of drifting. Also EP has max torque from zero RPM. HPI tried to break into the market with a nitro drifter years ago and it died pretty quickly.
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Feb 20, 2012 23:43
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I had an rc18t, it was hands down the most reliable truck I owned. 11.1v lipo, 8000kv brushless and 60mph smacks into the curb and it never broke a thing. It was just too light to put the power down properly on factory tires and prolines were hard to find at the time so I was very careful with them. But holy gently caress it was a fun little car. I also had a mini-T and a mini lst2 and while the lst had good clearance it just wasnt as fun as the demon rc18t.
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Mar 3, 2012 06:33
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ah, gear meshing. I have fond (read: horrible) memories of my savage 25 SS and its crappy slipper clutch. It was either locked, or if you set it to slip at all, it would eventually burn out, softening the center of the spur and causing it to get warped off axis. every bash session was pre-gamed with dropping the engine, fitting a new spur gear, and resetting the gear mesh. I was able to do it by feel after the first few months 
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Mar 6, 2012 01:12
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ElBrak posted:My Sprint 2 Flux ate another rear drive belt, you can really tell they just took a car designed for lower power and dropped a more powerful motor in it. I had a look at it close up and it looks like the rear belt rubs against the motor so I am gonna see about bodging in a tensioner to keep the belt tighter and up off the motor. its HPI, in my experience all their models have one component that is considered a consumable. EDIT: visited my local onroad club last night, and they have an emerging VTA class! im going to get on that poo poo rocking a 'Cuda body  . its a pretty relaxed class (21.5T brushless/silver can, HPI vintage rims and tires only, body must be 1979 or earlier) so will be good to wet my feet with before I figure out what I want to do (probably just stock class or maybe F1 as that looks fun)so whats a cheapish chassis with belt drive that I can sink my teeth into? Laserface fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Mar 6, 2012 |
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Mar 6, 2012 07:22
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Guy is selling a X-ray T2 chassis with extras - how is this for an entry level on road car for starting up racing? He wants $140aud. Will be running 21.5 turn brushless (stock class).
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Mar 10, 2012 14:43
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Just picked up a AE TC5R and a bunch of spares for $160. now I just need some HPI rims and tires, a bitchin Cuda body and some electronics and I will be tearing up VTA in no time. I am pretty excited over getting to race toy cars.
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Mar 21, 2012 01:34
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What type of servo should I be looking at for starting out racing onroad? My only experience with servos comes from buying servos for Savage/LST/MTs in general so they are all metal geared and super torquey, but to me it doesnt seem like torque is as critical as hi-speed. Im familiar with HiTec servos but apparently now savox and a few other brands are churning out good models much cheaper? I have a TC5R, will be running VTA (HPI vintage tires) and 21.5 class.
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Mar 27, 2012 00:55
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Nathan Explosion posted:Holy god. I'll be getting those in the very near future. Thank you for the heads up! The 5100 nimh I bought at the shop cost more than both of those combined. I'll report back once I get them. Maybe my stampede will keep up with my buddy's Jato with a hot, hot lipo injection. with the larger tires on MTs I would put the liner in the tire and then massage it for about 5 minutes. Squeeze, fold, bend, deform like it was play-doh in my hands and then mount them to the wheels. I joined my local club last night and am edging closer and closer to finally hitting the track 1 of my A-main orders is hopefully going to be here before the long weekend, with the rest of it getting here probably on the other side. at least I will have a body to paint and tools to play with.UPDATE: i got all my stuff, and all I can say is Gluing onroad tires, specifically HPI vintage tires and wheels, is a BITCH. anyone got advice for getting dried CA off the tread? Laserface fucked around with this message at 15:13 on Apr 4, 2012 |
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Apr 4, 2012 01:55
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Servos come in standard sizes (micro,mini,standard and jumbo) but they differ from eachother in spline count. You could upgrade to a high torque metal gear servo. As for the saver, just replace it with a metal servo horn that fits the spline of the servo you have. I've never understood why a saver is necessary for low-impact stuff like crawling or touring cars when you use a metal gear servo.
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Apr 8, 2012 05:41
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wav3form posted:I used to have the same car! For me I would take apart the engine to make sure the piston and sleeve are good, clean the carb, air filter, change all the diff fluids, shock fluids, new glow plug, etc. Just basic maintenance stuff. Id be more expecting to have to refill the diff/shocks than change the oil
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Apr 10, 2012 02:02
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Cup racer is on my to-do list in the future. I want to start a spec class for cup racer at my local track (any class with 3 cars to field will get a run) having a porsche cup racer class would be pretty awesome.
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Apr 10, 2012 03:02
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there is the sakura zero S (or S zero?) that is the same idea as the T3R (basic beginner kit touring car) and it is MUCH cheaper. its around $150AUD which puts it pretty much in the $100 zone for US people I would assume. there is also other stuff like 12th scale pan cars and F1 that are much more basic and usually kit form.
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Apr 10, 2012 05:59
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SGT. Squeaks posted:I'm running a sakura zero S in the local vta and usgt class. It's been pretty good. I picked it up for $120, but you'll have to put in another 75 or so to make it race worthy. once I get more experienced my plan is to switch my TC5 from VTA/21.5 touring to 17.5 touring only and then a sakura S for VTA, or keep the TC5 as is and get an F1 as thats another popular class at my club.
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Apr 11, 2012 01:44
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god drat it, spent hours masking up a car body only to have my Tamiya rattle can block up (the mechanism in the can, not the nozzle) and then because of my fiddling to fix it totally ignored that i left the body open-end up to catch a bunch of dirt in the paint
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Apr 15, 2012 03:12
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Soooo I recently accidentally reversed the wiring from my battery to ESC (stupid non-keyed bullet plug lipo packs). the battery and ESC are fine however I did manage to set my capacitor board on fire and consequently destroy it. Is a capacitor necessary on the ESC? I cant actually drive the car on the ground with load on it as its not finished but the ESC is functioning and quite smoothly at that. im told it smooths out voltage but not noticing any difference to be honest.
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Apr 22, 2012 02:06
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Nearly bought a losi micro crawler today - are they good fun on mulch/pebbly yards? It's BND too which pairs with my radio. Girlfriend stopped me but that just means I won't take her to the store next time.
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Apr 28, 2012 10:50
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had my first day on the circuit yesterday. it was a timed practice day (there is a inter-club meet coming up) so not full on racing but good fun nonetheless. I ran VTA and 21.5 Touring Car (both on the same chassis, just swapping body and tires) and had a blast with VTA which seems a lot more laid back than TC. doing grid starts and the chaos that ensues is pretty fun, plus the cars feel and drive a lot more like real cars - under and oversteer, drifting and depending on what part of the track, wheel spins. judging by some of the damage on my car I might have to pick a class to stick to as VTA rims on the front are going to force me to move my shock bottom mount away from the wheel. setting up suspension and the rest of it to compensate for the larger tires with less grip too. I guess I will hit a few more practice days and then have a try at some real racing. my god it was fun though.
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Apr 30, 2012 03:05
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| # ¿ May 12, 2024 18:06 |
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man, I love offroad. I wish I could justify owning one but theres just no tracks close enough what i would give to be playing with SCTs every weekend
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May 3, 2012 01:02
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