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I need to get back to my rally car projects. I rebuilt a M05 as a rally car for my kids. And I have a M06 to make into a rally car. ... also a MF01x. my "dream" is to do r/c car racing on baseball daimonds. Rallycross? Easy setup and takedown, slick surface so traction isn't a "thing".
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Oct 16, 2023 15:35
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:I blasted my TT02 around a baseball diamond not long after I got it and it's so good. Had to drat near disassemble the entire front end to get it cleaned out, but it's such a fun surface. I actually haven't had it out since I lowered it and put the Firebird body on it. Need to charge a batter and go whip it around. That's the ideal use of a TT02. I have a TT02 (red tub, oil filled shocks..) that I keep at a friends place just to have a toy to bash around with. It was a few years ago now, but I built it on thanksgiving day while they were making dinner for everyone. That was a good day. .... I thought I was going to get away with just having "a car" there. But my snobbery bled in. I ended up putting a decent steering servo, servo saver, and oil filled shocks on it. $45 in parts goes a looong way in making it a really good car. I still am using the $30 radio and reciever :-)
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Oct 16, 2023 16:18
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... I have.... a lot.. to say about all of this. Especially about power, and traction. But seriously, seeing another racer makes me very happy.
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Nov 2, 2023 17:12
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Been a rough week with oncall and stuff. TL;DR: Modern cars have so much power both in the battery and motor, that they're to darned fast. Modern tracks and tires are so biased towards maximum traction, that the limiting factor is traction rolling. This is not a good combination for competitive racing, or learning how to drive. Hmmpf. I've written this three times, and it always comes across a fuddy and nostalgia bullcrap. And a good bit autobiographical. EW. I think the american r/c car racing scene is .. sick. As in the medical sense. I"m still trying to pull all my thoughts together.
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Nov 3, 2023 07:56
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So I've been trying, and I keep getting back to an essay. Here are my less than coherant thoughts. 1. Traction is to high. High traction means cars roll over. It masks poor chassis setup. It loads the motors more. It makes drivetrains more sensitive. Braking is much less of a thing than it should be. Tire prep these days is about how to get the most traction in drive, and get rid of traction in corners. For off road, this means if you catch a tire wrong, you flip the car, instead of sliding. For on road, this means you're gluing sidewalls, you're intentionally setting things up to lose traction. Tire prep for off road is .. insane.. now. Has been for years. That.. isn't good. 2. Power is to high, and to granular. The similarity of lap times speaks to this. EuroTruck, VTA, USGT are all typically within 10% of each other. We shouldn't have 25.5, 21.5, 17.5, 10.5, 7.5 and mod. We shouldn't have three sealed can motors to manage on top of that. The variety is a punishment to the new driver. Changing classes is harder. 3. Cars don't look like cars anymore. And classes are indistinct. I should be able to look at the track, and know instantly what class is running. Either the speed needs to be ~that different~ or the body styles need to be ~that different~. 4. Onboarding new drivers. Getting into the sport is.. confusing and hard. Or just to expensive. So many driver who don't actually know what they're doing, giving advice. Or unwilling to support a new driver. The Cliquey enviorment I run into at most tracks is... offputting. ----------------------------------- I think we should be looking at rpm limited speedos like they do in the south asia races. 10.5 motors with rpm limiters seems like a good idea. I'd like to see current limited racing. We need lower traction carpet. This is definitely a situation where "the drivers want something that's bad for them". There's not enough emphasis on Mini racing. Mini's are 160mm wide, and as heavy as a VTA car. This gives them body roll, and makes the cars behave well. I also like the FWD touring cars gaining emphasis. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 18:05 on Nov 3, 2023 |
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Nov 3, 2023 17:59
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rowebot44 posted:The big issue is there are not really any new people getting into any classes let alone the 2 box stock slash classes they have. Slash isn't compelling. It's just an easy answer. They're sloppy, and end up being ugly hunks of junk in rapid fashion. But.. this is part of it. How do we get new people in? First, you need people to SEE it. Racing in backrooms, warehouses, on special days only, doesn't help. Racing in places where you can't invite people to watch, doesn't help. Facilities that have tracks, almost never make a show of it. They tend to have the proshop listed, but almost never the track. Advertising events... needs to happen. But the flyers need to include locations. I think a full 50% of rc race flyers don't include the location. None of them include links to what classes are. Where can you find where and when a race is happening? I have put ~concentrated effort~ into finding r/c car tracks in the PNW. I was able to find the one that happens next to boeing field, but it turns out there was one nearer to me. The only way I knew? was a friend saw cars running. Ambihelical Hexnut posted:The granularity of power systems is ridiculous,*snip* little accessories we don’t have the driving skill to exploit and that ruins the build. quote:I also desperately want more mini, fwd, and f1 racing, and any other wacky class. F1 still had a strong following before covid hit here. Same with Mini. FWD ran with USGT (and USGT has, maybe had, no weight limit for FWD cars..... )
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Nov 3, 2023 23:55
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I keep thinking about products that could "fix" r/c car racing. Then I get back to "there's no way to build something cheaper than a TT02". I own, at least.. three TT02's. I like them. They are perfect for "I don't care, I just wanna drive a car." The bottoms of my TT02's look like hell, and they can take a hit. So.. I think the real answer is figuring out how to get warm bodies at tracks and laughing as they make a mess of the track. $100 for transponders needs to end. Boaz MacPhereson posted:My local-ish (about an hour away) Hobbytown has a pretty nice indoor track setup that they'll throw some jumps on for truck and buggy races. They run a Spec Tamiya TT series that I may check out some time. I have zero experience racing but my car pretty much already checks all their boxes to meet spec. New motor, gears, and tires and I'd be ready to party. They do a lot of open track time too and I'd like to maybe get down there for that. You should try it. Amusingly, that upgrade list takes the price of a TT02 beyond the cost of a real touring car. *shakes head* So, go try it, and report back!
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Nov 4, 2023 11:21
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A few years back, I rented the local velodrome, and ran a race day. It... ended up not being much racing, but it was a ton of fun using a 400m velodrome to run cars on. 100% would do again. So, I've decided it's time to try something new. In April, I'm going to attempt a rally car event. I have a half a dozen people on board already. Here's the plan: Take one of the cheap lap timing apps. A baseball diamond. A box of finish nails, string, and a few cones. Layout a 30 second-ish course on the clay, and do time trials. Like.. real rally cars. One car at a time, means we don't need timing gear. There's lots of cars that are suited to running on loose clay. Loose surface means treaded tires are the rule, and tires will matter less. It also should be fine to run the typical belted touring cars on it, if you don't mind cleaning up. There's "a plan" for rules. But for now? Grab a set of $12 rally block tires and wheels off of amazon or ebay, jack the ride height up, and come play. Assuming everyone has fun, I'd like to have a mini class, and a Rally Car class. Mini being Tamiya M0#. Rally car being Touring car. "as long as it covers the wheels and looks like a car.." This is going to be done in public, so people can see the event. It's unlikely you'll need to recharge more than once. It's do-able with minimal equipment. And you can do it with any of a number of off the shelf kits. Since it's not wheel to wheel, and no "walls" you're not gonna break your car. And it'll be noobie friendly. ................. So I hope. Ambihelical Hexnut posted:100%. Absolute gut punch for newbies to race. Club systems and the necessary turnover also kept the sequence moving pretty well. Definitely don’t want to go back to frequency clips though. For the first couple decades, transponders were all borrowed. Now the people making the transponders won't sell you rental transponders. You can tell it's still a thing, because tamiya cars all come with transponder mounts. But the people who do the transponders want the money, and don't give a crap about the r/c community.
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Nov 5, 2023 17:43
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i own every Bionicle posted:How much is the whole timing system? I did a little bit of drone racing and we had a really good timing system that just read the video signal from the video transmitters on the drones. The thing that read the signals was like 500 bucks but it would work with a video transmitter/camera combo that’s like 15 bucks on Amazon. You could use just the timing system and not care about the live video. .. this is a really good idea. AIO's are down to like $20 aren't they? Boaz MacPhereson posted:And just where exactly is this gonna be? You're in/about Chicagoland somewhere aren't you? Looking at the near west suburbs. Elmhurst/OakBrook type thing? I still have a few months to hammer out the exact site. Ambihelical Hexnut posted:That's awesome. I raced at a few of these as a young child: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_X8sxJRZsPE Thunderdomes were my favorite rc car action editions. I"ll make a point to mention "bring whatever you've got" :-)
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Nov 5, 2023 23:03
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Beve Stuscemi posted:I was gonna say, I’d love to do something like that, but I don’t own any of those cars. Of course, bring something. Get a time. :-) I'm sure I'll have my TRF201 out there, pushing like buggies do. Also, $120-160 gets you a TT02 with rally gear from any number of American distributors. A bit more would get you a MF01x based car. Or a bit less a M05. This might be the right time for this, because MST, Associated, Kyosho, Traxxas, LC Racing also have rally cars you can get off the shelf.
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Nov 6, 2023 06:01
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RodShaft posted:I don't know how this thread feels about ultra cheap little bashers, but I'm really excited. I've already ordered some oil filled shocks and different tires for it. I figure after I take it out a couple times it'll give me a better idea of what I'm looking for in an RC, and since I have 2 kids to hand them down to, I have 2 more chances to get it right. The Cheap Chinese stuff... is a great gateway. When hobby grade bites you, you're gonna really change how you see r/c. And you're not far from it. Amusingly, some of the cheap and cheerful chinese stuff is just direct clones of the good stuff. However with much lower grade materials. That first car that's made entirely of plastic that's got ~design intent~. Fasteners that are all high quality. Parts that have little or no flash on them. Thoughtful inclusions of adjustments. Getting a car with your first ~truely high speed~ steering servo coupled a nice stiff servo saver. There's genuine magic when you get that first car setup really well. Endpoints setup so the servo doesn't strain at the locks, a servo that moves as fast as your fingers do, exponential setup so the steering feels linear, a sensored motor that always responds exactly how you expect, and suspension setup so the thing feels like it's on rails.... (It sounds like a lot, but it really isn't..) Cheap Chinese is still the only way to really get some weird stuff. 1/10 scale motorcycles? 1/76th scale r/c cars? (Now that Tomy stopped with the bit char-g) For the record, the turbo racing 1/76th scale cars? Do it. You absolutely won't regret driving around your breakfast in the morning. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 16:19 on Nov 15, 2023 |
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Nov 15, 2023 16:11
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RodShaft posted:I don't have anywhere I can really let an RC rip, I have my cul-de-sac I can drive it in a circle and a 2 acre barely mowed lot behind my house. I can go to the skatepark or a park but the parks aren't any better than the lot behind my house. So I'll probably stick with big tires and ramps. Fine tuning for speed would tap into my min-maxing arpg lizard brain, but it's not really feasible. Oh, I'm not talking about ~velocity~, i'm talking about precision and translating your desires to movement of the car. "real race cars" tend to be slower than big number toys. It's really common to see people put a whole lot of money into "upgraded steering" parts on their cars. Metal steering bellcranks, knuckles, etc... chasing a car that wanders, or doesn't go straight. When the real issue is a better steering servo and a stiffer servo saver. Or even JUST a good servo. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 22:09 on Nov 15, 2023 |
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Nov 15, 2023 22:04
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RodShaft posted:Ok. I replaced the shocks with oil filled shocks. I followed the instructions in some random YouTube video. (fill the shocks with oil, get air out, put back together) and they were just solid, no give at all, so I let out a little oil(by just closing it back up with the plunger halfway in) and now it seems super loose then just like stops. Ifi drop it from a foot the body bounces a little, but the tires stay on the ground, 2-3 ft it bounces maybe half an inch/an inch. Higher than that the body hits the ground. get me a link to the shocks. If they are airation shocks, they need some air in them to function. Otherwise there should be bladders to provide the room for the shafts to ride in. Regardless, show me the shocks. Also.. what oil did you use?
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Dec 8, 2023 00:50
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Looks like none of what you bought has any volume compensation built in. The best method for filling these is likely going to be a syringe, and doing a fixed fill of each shock. 50w oil might be a bit heavy. But if you're doing just jumps? it might work. I say best. But I will point out, that these are ~all~ trash. Spending $20 on Yeah Racing, or 3 Racing is a massive step up from these. They come with pistons of different hole counts, hey come with some sort of volume compensation, they come with oil, they come with spare parts.
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Dec 8, 2023 16:48
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Welcome to the world of damper rod shock tuning, where everything relates to everything else and there are no good answers...... If it were me.... I'd pull the seals out of the shock. I''d assemble it full of oil. Then carefully disassemble it, and measure how much oil was left in the shock. That's your maximum oil level. I'd measure the volume of the shock shaft.. and remove that much oil too. Consistency is key.
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Dec 8, 2023 21:00
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Kafouille posted:IIRC you can just fill them at full compression, that gives you the scenario with the least volume. But do extend them before you screw the cap on afterward else they'll spring back into the shock under vacuum. Gas law means this gets ugly fast. If you have ~exactly~ the volume of space that the shaft takes up, when you go to full compression, your pressure in the shock is gonna be VERY high. This is bad for seals, bad for the shock body, and because the gas acts as a spring.. you end up going from zero shock spring, to say... lets be nice.. 100psi in the shock at full compression. If you leave "some" space, you can get that pressure rise to be much more reasonable. It's important that each shock behaves the same, and with massive changes in gas volume in the shock, smaller differences in the amount of oil matter MUCH more. TL;DR: Leave some air space.
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Dec 8, 2023 22:24
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A cars ride height should be with the drive shafts about level. Having control is a matter of having the wheels in contract with the ground as much as you can, which means you need available up travel, and down travel. Your car is quite high. You have basically built emulsion shocks, so "the first drop" is gonna be a bit weird. You'll need to pump the shocks a few times for them to work right. So do that drop test like five or six times, and the last one is gonna be what it really does. Shocks... aren't really for handling jumps. A properly setup car ABSOLUTELY is gonna bottom out on a big jump. And usually, even pretty tame ones. But it won't pogo out of control. That's the goal here. Heck, most of my cars will smack the chassis down off a 12" drop. But they land ~and stay landed~.
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Dec 10, 2023 21:09
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Kibner posted:Same This is the right reaction. I own one. it's perfect for "welp, I need 5 minutes of wheel time in a dirty house"
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Dec 18, 2023 15:30
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Kibner posted:I've been out of the game for so long because I just don't have enough space to store or run R/C cars, but maybe these small scale ones would be fine. I'm also considering getting a micro R/C for house fun. I need to go see what is out there for micro's so I can compare them to the SCX24 and figure out which would be best for me. 1/24 and 1/76 scale saved driving for me. In the space of one 1/10 scale car, I can have a drift car, a crawler, and a couple nice road cars.... And they're ~good~. Like, the closest thing I have to an excuse for the turbo racing cars, is they don't have suspension. The 1/24th scale stuff? Depending on what you get... they even have dampened suspension!
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Dec 18, 2023 16:58
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Snowmankilla posted:What do you have of these small scales? I’m always up for spending money. I'll get you a post before the end of tomorrow. I suppose a video.... It's been a while since I did the youtube thing I have the Drift car with Gyro: https://www.amazon.com/FLYCOLOR-Tur...c7-93deae8f9840 I have the "mini": https://www.amazon.com/Yamix-Turbo-...deae8f9840&th=1 And I have the "race car": https://www.amazon.com/Havcybin-Con...deae8f9840&th=1 The drift car and Race car are similar, but the race car has rubber tires, and no gyro. They have "direct drive" drivetrains, so drive like a normal r/c car. The "mini" has a worm drive drivetrain so.. braking isn't a thing, it just kinda stops. In 1/24 I have Mini-Z and a SCX24. I've owned the Losi micro crawlers too. I can't add much to those. They're just.. "small hobby grade r/c cars". No suprises, just small. And awesome. That said, video forthcoming.
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Dec 19, 2023 04:04
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antimatt posted:I'm moving soon and will be near a very nice and popular carpet off road track, so I guess it's time to get back into 1/10 racing. Anyone have interests in seeing the geekier side of that kind of stuff? Or should I Everything you can post!
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Dec 24, 2023 22:26
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once I get settled?
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Kvlt! posted:The battery (230mAh, 6 volt, 5 cell, NiMH), comes with a charger but says "charge it for X minutes and if it starts getting hot or smoky that's bad". Does anyone know if there is a charger for this battery (or an alternative battery that also works), that comes with something like your more typical "the charger will let you know if it's charging/when it's charged?" charger? "The battery is getting warm" is a valid charging method for Nicad and NiMh cells. So long as you can still touch it, you're still ok. Peak detection chargers would frequently false peak for me. So I more commonly used the "is it warm" method. THAT SAID, good chargers are good. Go spend $40-60 on one of the B6 clone chargers and you're gonna be real happy for a very long time with your choice. They work for everything from real car batteries, to quads, to little tiny 1s airplanes.
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Feb 23, 2024 21:44
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Shai-Hulud posted:Build my first real RC car: There are several "mini" size chassis that are 4wd. The MF01x is Tamiya's option. They're going to be hard to find parts for, in general. Now, since you have a M05, there are two things to do. Get a heavy duty servo saver (they're $7 or $8.) and a set of 3racing or YeahRacing shocks (figure $20.) and you'll have a car you can reliably drive exactly where you want it. And the diff matters a lot less. While you're at it, $15 on a set of bearings is good too. I spent a lot of time trying to make my M05 "great". I have a fully decorated M05 here somewhere, and accessing the diff is tricky. It's ten screws if I recall correctly. It's best to just leave that diff open. If you want to have a car to go with your M05, that's 4wd, and we're talking driveway bashing. Find one of the TT02 variants with a nice rally car body, and enjoy. My recommendations for parts to buy at the same time are the same.. The M series, and TT series are "just one step up" from toy grade, so don't throw a bunch of money in upgrade parts at them, it's a waste. When I buy a TT or M series car for bashing around, I buy a heavy duty servo saver, bearings, shocks, and make sure it's got a fast steering servo. Anything else should be pocketed for stuff that will work for every car, or buying your next car. As someone who's got the race grade stuff (Xray, Losi, Team Associated, 3Racing, CRC, and a couple years of racing..) you're not gonna make a big improvement for less than the cost of the entire ~better~ chassis from someone else, so don't do it. :-) And... welcome to the fold.
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Mar 23, 2024 00:50
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It's not worth trying to get the AM or FM radio stuff to work again. The ESCs are fine. Motors are too. You'll need new batteries. You're best off selling the chassis, because if you break something that's the end. There are some traditional buggies and stadium trucks on the market now. And they're not all that expensive. While we're at it, I am very unhappy with the current state of offroad. The "standard" is carpet, or clay so dense it gets a blue groove. Traction rolling is a problem. Wheelies are a problem. The cars have gotten longer, motors have moved midship, and now nearly to the middle of the chassis. Batteries are getting smaller because there's just so much power available. I have a DT02, a TT02b, for my off road jollies. The DT02 really does it for me. Rear motor means it is happy on really slippery stuff. There are some other rear motor chassis on the market, but the names aren't coming ot mind right now.
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Mar 23, 2024 03:53
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Traction is a problem in .. all of american racing right now. Nearly all. Traction is so high that cars are being optimized for LCG as opposed to having the chassis work. The exception is people running in actual parking lots, or outdoor asphalt tracks. In the old days, off road was on "dirty" surfaces. ~actual dirt~. Mini-pins could dig in. Long pins were an option sometimes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JCPlLtt_yg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odYYjUk17IE That's exciting, and fun to watch. The modern stuff.. not so much.
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Mar 24, 2024 03:10
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Beve Stuscemi posted:I was always jealous of the carpet guys because they didn’t have to clean their cars afterwards ... but you do. The fuzz accumulation can be hilarious. On the other side, you're not breaking knuckles or ball ends as often.
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Mar 24, 2024 07:49
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Kvlt! posted:what does LCG mean in this context? Low Center of Gravity. In on-road? people were shaving the roofes of their cars to lower CG. Now the body plastic is so thin that bodies border on disposable. Cars are getting support struts to stop bodies from collapsing due to air pressure at speed. Lower shock towers, shorter shocks, even cars with worse performing, but lower mounted shock designs dominate the sport.
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Mar 24, 2024 09:44
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Beve Stuscemi posted:I always assumed you could blow it away but now that I think about it any accumulated grease or oil would glue the fuzz down for sure. Compressed air helps. It doesn't clean the stuff stuck inside hubs. And traction compound, and other stuff makes it stick pretty darned good. Kvlt! posted:i always thought offroad meant dirt, what is on road? Asphalt? On-road is carpet mostly. There's some pavement. But mostly felt like carpet. Off road is clay, sometimes astroturf/outdoor carpet, or actual on-road carpet with jumps.
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Mar 25, 2024 04:02
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Kvlt! posted:Speaking of SCX24s, I got into RC cars by getting myself one. I call it the "truck of theseus" because at this point the only thing I have left to replace on it is the motor and battery/ESC. The controller just changes the endpoint for the ESC. Low is going to have the throttle travel limited to say.. 50%, medium? might be 70%. high, will be 100% on the ESC. It doesn't actually change anything "on the car". Batteries, motors, aren't.. really... related. You'll see benifits with better batteries across the board (that is higher C rating, or higher capacity with the same C rating) With hotter motors, you can generally run worse batteries and still have a good time. You may need a new ESC, depending on the amp draw of the new motor. ESC's are limited by the amps they can carry, and supposing your pinion is small enough, and the actual load on the motor is reasonable, even stock ESCs do just fine with lower turn motors.
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Mar 26, 2024 11:44
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antimatt posted:Amen. Short course trucks are my favorite class for just that reason. They're also a bit lazy because of the added mass and bodies. But they're not popular because people seem to love driving the fastest, most uncontrollable cars. I hate short course trucks with a passion. They're.. essentially 1/8th scale cars, flying the flag of 1/10th scale. The bodies are disposable, they're built on chassis designed for buggies, so broken arms and knuckles are the name of the day. They're always upside down. They're always blocking most of the lane. They're always ... wrong. Every race I've seen with SCT has been a race of attrition, not of driver skill. And that's just trash. "stock" and "modified" buggies are both far to fast. I think we need to see 25.5 turn buggy classes with how fast 17.5 is. And traction is to high. Edit: whoops, double post
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Mar 26, 2024 11:49
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The slash is such an awful platform. Pokey steering servo, soft servo saver, chassis from a ~bad~ 1/10th buggy, wheels to big for any of the other components.. Stadium Trucks are still amazing. :-) But people wanted the long wheel base? I dunno. As bad as slash is, EuroTruck is good. Screwing up a chassis with intent, and giving it slippy tires makes for great racing.
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Mar 27, 2024 01:49
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Kibner posted:Dammit, now I'm looking at the DT02 Nissan Titan Truck: Eurotruck is for racing. DT02 is for bashing. :-) Get the DT02. You won't regret it. With the stock motor, they can pull a wheelie on grass! I like the DT02 better than the DT03. Kvlt! posted:Hey thanks for this post! Very helpful. I think I gotta do some research on the electronics side of it, I'm pretty good at figuring out the physical parts but the electronics have me scratching my brain. Is there a good kinda "begginers guide" or primer to modern RC electronics more in depth? Not.. a whole lot... Most people buy the motor/esc that match the class they're running. But on the smaller end.... the real information is kinda light on the ground.
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Mar 28, 2024 03:43
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Oh, you sure can. You buy a car, you drive a car. There's a long way between "driving the car" and "being able to feel the difference in punch settings, motor timing, expoential curves.." This gets.. really.. really.. long. I wouldn't concern yourself with programmable servos, and ESCs. Most racing locks you down to a blinky mode anyway.... What you DO need to concern yourself with, is buying a good servo (Something with a better than 0.1 second 60deg time) and a computer radio. Basic radios "might" dual rates. You want endpoint adjustment and exponential curves. Those are things you will ~absolutely~ be able to feel, and things you can adjust and have make sense. Truth be told, I don't want an ESC with lots of options. That locks me "to that ESC". And... i'm cheap, and I want to easily be able to swap hardware if I do something dumb like hook an ESC up backwards. A lot of car/chassis tuning is done with radios. r/c car steering response is frequently quite non-linear, so a a descending rate exponential curve is surprisingly useful. Braking is frequently benefited by expo curves as well. Throttle can be if you're running a hot setup, but for most classes linear is fine there. Edit: And, if you're doing it right, you'll have a notebook, and youll be taking notes and doign real race team stuff. I did.... I tracked every heat, and changes I made between races. It helped me, a lot. Also, "real books" about "real cars" are real information, and really work for r/c cars. caster, camber, spring rate, sway bars, toe, antisquat, antidive, everything translates. It just happens MUCH faster at smaller scales Edit again: R/C cars are typically setup to push a bit, because "controlling a slide" or "neutral" is hard to maintain when your butt isn't acutally in the car. Touring cars will have spools or very tight diff settings up front. RWD cars are setup with either much wider tires out back, or setups that throw out traction up front to keep the push going. .................. God I love racing. R/C lets you really get into it, for the cost of a set of tires to go to a trackday. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 05:16 on Mar 28, 2024 |
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Mar 28, 2024 05:11
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Kvlt! posted:This was basically the exact right up I was lookong for! Incredibly helpful thank you! I love to tinker and tweak stuff so this part of it really appeals to me. Im looking into computer radios now, do you have recs for a good one or are they more car-specific? As long as it's a computer radio, it'll work. I generally drink the Spektrum Kool-Aid, but I've recently bought a couple Fr-Sky radios for "throwaway" setups. The Spektrum radios are easier to deal with, but they all do the same things. "What radio do you recomend?" isn't wildly different from asking what religion is best. $40 for a computer radio buys a lot of "this is a pain" versus the $90-400 for real brands. meowmeowmeowmeow posted:, is there anything wrong with the SCX24 platform?
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Mar 29, 2024 20:16
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| # ¿ May 15, 2024 01:18 |
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Motors are not a thing you'll see a difference in, until you start ~actually winning~. At that point, your opinion is better than any advice from strangers. Pick a brand that is available in the US, and go to town. Savox is the goto for servos. You'll find them retail, they're in the $60-110 range. Futaba makes everything from rtrash to "really fast" so I recomend avoiding that... as it's easy to buy the $50 base servo that's slower than a moose in molasses. Spektrum makes good servos too. You want something less than .10 seconds for 60deg. Hobbywing is where to go for ESCs. Nearly everyone will have a programmer at the track, and you can likely buy a replacement at the track if you blow yours up. As noted up-page, radios are a religon.
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Apr 1, 2024 11:46
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