|
Tigertron posted:Apprentice plumber checking in, I started just two weeks ago. We are small, just three of us, we cover plumbing and ac/heat. There is something very rewarding about working with your hands and getting a job done right. Plus the pay is very rewarding as well. You definitely have my respect. You guys are like the Calvary when I'm in a jam. I'll pay nearly anything!
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2009 23:28
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 17:42 |
|
|
Tigertron posted:Apprentice plumber checking in, I started just two weeks ago. We are small, just three of us, we cover plumbing and ac/heat. There is something very rewarding about working with your hands and getting a job done right. Plus the pay is very rewarding as well. Hi fellow apprentice. What got you into the trade?
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2009 23:29
|
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Hi fellow apprentice. What got you into the trade? I really got tired of working dead end jobs doing work a monkey could do. So I happened upon a chance to work with my girlfriends father riding along on jobs and eventually full time sewer bursting. Friday I got an opportunity to ride along to a house worth over a few million in Huntington beach CA (the owner of No Fear & Affliction clothing) to do some AC work. My jaw dropped when I saw the underground theater styled with a gothic theme. The AC unit we were installing was dedicated to keep cool the wall of audio, video and servers. You definitely get the privilege of going places many people don't get the opportunity to go. Once I become more skilled they will start taking me to homes in Laguna Beach that are valued at much more.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2009 23:40
|
|
|
I've successfully replaced my hot water heater, but I'm having a real bastard of a time with the burner. After replacing the old unit with a slightly smaller new unit I can't get the burner to stay lit. The pilot will light (and stay lit indefinitely as far as I can tell), but as soon as I try to light the main burner with the temperature control knob, it ignites for about 3-5 seconds and then flares out. My gas main is working correctly; I tested the gas furnace and it operates just fine. Not sure what to do. I'm hoping this doesn't mean the heater I just spent all day replacing is defecive or something.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2009 00:14
|
|
|
Tigertron posted:I really got tired of working dead end jobs doing work a monkey could do. So I happened upon a chance to work with my girlfriends father riding along on jobs and eventually full time sewer bursting. Friday I got an opportunity to ride along to a house worth over a few million in Huntington beach CA (the owner of No Fear & Affliction clothing) to do some AC work. My jaw dropped when I saw the underground theater styled with a gothic theme. The AC unit we were installing was dedicated to keep cool the wall of audio, video and servers. Last winter i got to work on a brewery. 4 of us there did the steam lines, water lines, chilled water lines. It was a great experience.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2009 00:15
|
|
|
BEHOLD: MY CAPE posted:I've successfully replaced my hot water heater, but I'm having a real bastard of a time with the burner. After replacing the old unit with a slightly smaller new unit I can't get the burner to stay lit. where did you get the heater from, how many BTU's is it? It sounds like the thermal coupling could be messed up but i need more info.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2009 04:42
|
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:where did you get the heater from, how many BTU's is it? Lowes', it is a Whirlpool 30 gal 30,000 BTU natural gas unit. I am calling the warranty/customer support line tomorrow to see what the deal is.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2009 04:55
|
|
|
BEHOLD: MY CAPE posted:Lowes', it is a Whirlpool 30 gal 30,000 BTU natural gas unit. EDIT: Actually the thermal couple could just need to be moved closer to the pilot light. Turd Herder fucked around with this message at 00:50 on Oct 13, 2009 |
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2009 14:09
|
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I'd really suggest digging up the pipe and removing it. Ok, so I did it the right way. I maybe even did it right. Reached the treasure!  A nice clean cut with the snap cutter, and.. uh oh  Just a temporary setback. We gave up on usable iron and cut before the first clay hub, which we'd already damaged. I had already bought a clay-to-iron coupler expecting this:  Something to connect to inside, finally: 
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2009 04:00
|
|
|
mr.belowaverage posted:Ok, so I did it the right way. I maybe even did it right. Nice, looks like you did a great job. Did you put a level on the pipe and check the grade? Basically just make sure its not graded backwards. Turd Herder fucked around with this message at 04:59 on Oct 22, 2009 |
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2009 04:57
|
|
|
so i wake my rear end up early for work and i was kind of having problems with this shower knob earlier in the week, i go to turn on the water and nothing comes out on the cold side of the knob, i get to the middle and the water is hot as gently caress, not hot enough to scald but enough to make the shower uncomfortable. how would i go about fixing this without ripping out the whole shower? pics below http://www.wewtgaming.com/shower
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2009 21:13
|
|
|
Off hand I'd say its a bad cartridge. If I'm seeing it correctly from the pictures i believed its a MOEN . Home depot should sell the cartridges. If its another brand tell me cause i could be wrong. You will need to shut off your water to do this. Turn off the cold main coming into your house and close the ball valve on the water heater to prevent it from siphoning the water heater. Cartridges are easily to replace. If you turn the handle on so its pointing up you will see an open alen key or a half red half blue circle. Use a pocket knife (screw driver or anything skinny to get under the plug to pop it out works) and pop out the red and blue plug to expose the allen key screw. You will then see a circular cylinder that you can easily just pull off with your hands. You will expose the valve itself with a horse shoe looking clip in the top. You will have to pull the clip out by pulling up on it. Sometimes they stick so you may need pliers. Now the cartridge cam come out. Grab the metal stem that the that has a flat top and bottom with pliers and pull. It will pull out the cartridge. Take this to hardware store and find a new one to put it. Make sure you didn't leave any old rubbers in the valve body itself. Sometimes the cartridges will get old enough that the cartridges basically separate from the rubber gaskets. Another step you can do if you have a friend with you. Have him turn on the cold water very quickly leave it on for a second and then turn it back off. If for some reason you have stuff stuck in the cold lines this will flush it out. You may have to take off the large trim plate before removing the cartridge to get more room to work. It all depends on how far back the valve body was roughed in. I left out some steps for taking out the handle but it should only be two plastic pieces screwed into the stem of the cartridge. You can easily figure out how to take those off before you remove the cylinder covering the horse shoe clip.
|
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2009 02:46
|
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Off hand I'd say its a bad cartridge. If I'm seeing it correctly from the pictures i believed its a MOEN . Home depot should sell the cartridges. If its another brand tell me cause i could be wrong. doesnt seem too tough. there is no markings on the plate or handle. could i just buy a new more stylish cartridge? or do i have to use the same (unknown) maker?
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2009 09:19
|
|
|
You have to use the same brand cartridge. You can get varies trim kits for each valve body but that's about it. If you can take the handle off and show me a picture. I should be able to identify the brand.
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2009 13:35
|
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Nice, looks like you did a great job. Did you put a level on the pipe and check the grade? I did and also tested it by running water into it, and none flowed back out. However, after pouring some concrete and filling in, the pipe seems to have settled a bit. I had it propped up on stones, but I guess not well enough. It now sits more or less level. That would leave me with a level run about 4-5 feet long between the first T and the existing clay sewer outside. Is this going to be a major problem?
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2009 14:30
|
|
|
mr.belowaverage posted:I did and also tested it by running water into it, and none flowed back out. First of all supporting your pipes with rocks is never a good idea. And it all depends on how close to level. If its an 1/8th in per foot you can get away with it, but if its completely flat it will give you issues. You will more likely have clogs there then because of the flat pipe.
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2009 16:04
|
|
|
Journeyman Plumber checking in. I remember my first plumbing thread. Good job, Rd. Rash.
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2009 12:28
|
|
|
PappyFromJersey posted:Journeyman Plumber checking in. I remember my first plumbing thread. Good job, Rd. Rash. So what type of plumbing do you usually do pappy? Commercial, resi or service?
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2009 14:02
|
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:So what type of plumbing do you usually do pappy? Commercial, resi or service? Commercial service in Dallas. Did my 4-year apprenticeship at a residential plumbing service company.
|
|
#
?
Oct 28, 2009 02:56
|
|
|
PappyFromJersey posted:Commercial service in Dallas. Did my 4-year apprenticeship at a residential plumbing service company. Got any service tricks you wanna share?
|
|
#
?
Oct 28, 2009 04:04
|
|
|
Excuse the terrible drawing(using a trackpad). I wanted to put in a wet bar in to an open space in my home. I have running water and drain line that are used for my washer which is on the other side of the wall. The darker line is an exterior wall and smaller line is an interior wall. How much of a pain in the rear end would it be to run hot/cold/drain from the washer area to the wetbar area so I can enjoy my girly drinks? Would it be easier or better to go through the interior wall or exterior? I know there would have to be some knocking poo poo out, but didn't know how much damage there would be. Here is a really bad diagram: 
|
|
#
?
Oct 28, 2009 04:50
|
|
|
It wouldn't be to hard to do in theory. Depending on the area you live you may want to stay out of the outside wall. Due to problems with a chance o freezing. You do need to bring a drain to the sink and a vent back. I'd need pictures of the Washer it self and the drain lines to see what material I'm working with. Give me a pic of your water pipe too so i can figure out what material it is also.
|
|
#
?
Oct 28, 2009 04:56
|
|
|
i drew two drawings, the first is an over head view of what i think you have. Yellow is the drain line and it doesnt show the vent coming back. Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.
|
|
#
?
Oct 28, 2009 05:29
|
|
|
Drain line must slope down, vent line must slope up. One line can *maybe* be both if it's short enough, otherwise you'll need separate drain and vent pipes. Hot and cold water lines are fine regardless of routing. It's legal to have them running exposed outside your wall/behind your dishwasher, but not aesthetically very nice. You may run into issues with the size of the pipes of the inspector does the math (you can only put so many sinks/appliances on a single drain line or water supply) but they probably won't care if you do everything else right.
grover fucked around with this message at 00:42 on Oct 29, 2009 |
|
#
?
Oct 28, 2009 10:50
|
|
|
Dobermaniac posted:Excuse the terrible drawing(using a trackpad). I wanted to put in a wet bar in to an open space in my home. I have running water and drain line that are used for my washer which is on the other side of the wall. The darker line is an exterior wall and smaller line is an interior wall. How much of a pain in the rear end would it be to run hot/cold/drain from the washer area to the wetbar area so I can enjoy my girly drinks? Would it be easier or better to go through the interior wall or exterior? I know there would have to be some knocking poo poo out, but didn't know how much damage there would be. If your house was built with a crawlspace, the drain line could penetrate the floor along with the water lines and the vent could be run through the attic. If you have a concrete slab foundation, then the drain/water lines would have to run down the wall to the washer stack, but the vent could still run through the attic to the washer vent stack. What's up, Grover?
|
|
#
?
Oct 28, 2009 12:09
|
|
|
Thanks guys. I'm not heading home until Thursday and will take some pictures then.
|
|
#
?
Oct 28, 2009 13:07
|
|
|
grover posted:Drain line must slope down, vent line must slope up. One line can *maybe* be both if it's short enough, otherwise you'll need separate drain and vent pipes. Hot and cold water lines are find regardless of routing. It's legal to have them running exposed outside your wall/behind your dishwasher, but not aesthetically very nice. You may run into issues with the size of the pipes of the inspector does the math (you can only put so many sinks/appliances on a single drain line or water supply) but they probably won't care if you do everything else right. 1/4 per foot is standard to grade a drain in Washington. Is it the same with you grover? We are allowed to run 4inch at 1/8 inch per foot if Authority having Jurisdiction approves it. Turd Herder fucked around with this message at 14:14 on Oct 28, 2009 |
|
#
?
Oct 28, 2009 14:05
|
|
|
Whattup, Pappy?Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I should have graded those lines correctly in my drawing. Speaking of which, found the table I was looking for. (IRC P3105.1) At 1/4" per foot slope, you can have 5' of horizontal 1.25" pipe between the bar sink's p-trap and the drain/vent connection. If using 1.5" pipe, it can go 6'. grover fucked around with this message at 00:53 on Oct 29, 2009 |
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2009 00:51
|
|
|
grover posted:Whattup, Pappy? whats the smallest pipe you use to vent a single fixture? 1 1/2abs is pretty much the norm for just a lav. We usually bring a 2 inch drain to it for over kill.
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2009 03:25
|
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:whats the smallest pipe you use to vent a single fixture?
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2009 00:55
|
|
|
The reason i asked was some hilly billy told me once that people on the east coast were venting fixtures in 3/4 inch copper. I couldnt figure out why anyone would do that, let alone the cost to do it that way. I figured it was a myth but i was just checking.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2009 01:52
|
|
|
Yeah, that's BS. I'm not going to say it's not done, but it's certainly illegal in all 50 states and there seems to be 0 reason to do it that way.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2009 02:22
|
|
|
grover posted:Yeah, that's BS. I'm not going to say it's not done, but it's certainly illegal in all 50 states and there seems to be 0 reason to do it that way. I'm not sure if you already posted it but what type of plumbing do you do grover? Are you commerical, resi, or service. And union or non union?
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2009 02:28
|
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I'm not sure if you already posted it but what type of plumbing do you do grover? Are you commerical, resi, or service. And union or non union?  I'm a licensed PE, and fairly well versed in many areas, including plumbing and HVAC. Professionally, I do mostly electrical work; I'm flattered that you think well enough of me in this thread to assume I'm a plumber, though!
grover fucked around with this message at 02:59 on Oct 30, 2009 |
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2009 02:57
|
|
|
grover posted:Truth be told, I'm an engineer Grover knows just enough to get himself in trouble (see: S-trap). loving engineers. Worst customers ever. (wink)
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2009 13:44
|
|
|
PappyFromJersey posted:Grover knows just enough to get himself in trouble (see: S-trap). loving engineers. Worst customers ever. (wink) I was being polite but yes i agree. But you know who's worse. The guy at home depot who tell people random poo poo to do in there plumbing. That is so rear end backwards you wonder if the guy ever had a licence.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2009 18:45
|
|
|
Any idea why running water is so loud throughout our house? it's not hammering, just a roaring *WHOOOOOOSH* that happens whenever any tap is turned at any time during the day. We have 1/2 inch copper and excellent water pressure, but goddamn, if I grab a glass of water from the kitchen in the middle of the night, I wake everyone up.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2009 22:19
|
|
|
Do Not Resuscitate posted:Any idea why running water is so loud throughout our house? it's not hammering, just a roaring *WHOOOOOOSH* that happens whenever any tap is turned at any time during the day. Is your whole house run in 1/2 copper? There should be atleast 3/4 coming into the house. Do you heard the sound if you shower or if the toilet runs?
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2009 03:02
|
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Is your whole house run in 1/2 copper? There should be atleast 3/4 coming into the house. I'll have to check on your questions when I get home, but the worst culprits are the kitchen sink faucet and the bathroom sink. Now that I think about it, these two are back-to-back against the same wall.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2009 17:48
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 17:42 |
|
|
Do Not Resuscitate posted:I'll have to check on your questions when I get home, but the worst culprits are the kitchen sink faucet and the bathroom sink. Now that I think about it, these two are back-to-back against the same wall.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2009 21:24
|
|